S1 Infinite on Bluetti Power Bank

[gunnye7t]

Attempting to wire an S1 to a Bluetti power station.

No problem powering the S1.
Problem is how to get the S1 to enter Parking Mode.

As I understand the wiring the Red + lead is wired to a power source that will DROP OFF when the vehicle is shut off.
The Yellow lead is to connect to a power source that RETAINS power when vehicle is shut off.

This is opposite to how most hardwire kits operate.

My problem is that the Bluetti will continue to power the S1 when the vehicle is shut off.
Power will not dropoff the Red + lead.
So the S1 will continue to operate in full recording mode.

I need the parking mode to activate ( Low Power Mode ) to extend the runtime of the Bluetti.

In advise will be much appreciated.

 

[rcg530]

The S1-4K Infinite dash camera does require the accessory power wire [red] have the power turned off/on [as do most dash cameras] to let the dash camera know when to enter/exit parking mode.

The Yellow wire being used for constant power and the Red wire being used for the accessory/switched power is also used by several dash cameras and dash camera battery packs. It's important to make sure the function the wire performs be identified and used correctly when connecting the dash camera wiring to a power source.

There are at least two possible solutions to your situation.

The first one being to add a toggle switch to the accessory power wire. You manually toggle the switch off [parking mode] on [driving mode]. That can get quite annoying the more the use that solution.

The second being to route the power provided to the dash camera's Red wire [accessory power] via a relay. The relay's control circuit [pins 85 & 86] would be controlled by an accessory/switched power circuit in the vehicle as well as a ground from the vehicle for this control circuit.

The relay's "load" circuit [pins 30 / 87] would have the Bluetti power for the S1's Red wire routed through those pins. This keeps the dash camera power sourced from one place the Bluetti.

While it's technically possible to use a vehicle accessory/switched power connected to the S1's Red wire, that's mixing grounding destinations. While doable, I like to keep the power and ground for any power circuit to be based in the same power system [battery pack or vehicle].

 

[gunnye7t]

With some more trial and error I figured out as you suggested.

I am using the DC5521 ports on the Bluetti.
One port is for the red wire and the other port is for the yellow.
Sharing the ground of the Bluetti.
When I want parking mode I disconnect the cable from the port for the red wire.
A stop gap option till I gather more parts.

I had thought of the switch option.
I like the relay idea much better. Thanks for that suggestion.

On a side note.
I have a couple of Rove dashcams and was trying to use Viofo HK4 kits with them.
No go. Seems you have to use the "Rove" hardwire kits with Rove cams.
Their website says their kits are "specially made" to work with their cams.
Go figure.

 

[lufa6977]

I am thinking that with a 5-pin automotive relay, you will still need a switch to make it work without human intervention.

I believe that 30 and 87a are normally closed, when power is applied ( 85 and 86 ), then 87a opens and 87 closes. So you would need a switch between the fuse panel and contacts 85 and 86 to sense the change in potential, if I follow this correctly. 🙂

 

[rcg530]

I am thinking that with a 5-pin automotive relay, you will still need a switch to make it work without human intervention.

I believe that 30 and 87a are normally closed, when power is applied ( 85 and 86 ), then 87a opens and 87 closes. So you would need a switch between the fuse panel and contacts 85 and 86 to sense the change in potential, if I follow this correctly. 🙂

You don't need a 5-pin relay [which adds the 87a terminal pin]. A 4-pin relay is sufficient since 30/87 are not normally connected if the control circuit power is absent. The "switch" can be a vehicle provided accessory/switched power source and ground for pins 85/86 of the relay.

 

[lufa6977]

Maybe I misunderstood then...you are speaking of only powering by the Bluetti, is that correct? I am thinking of how to provision the Bluetti to function as a backup when the ignition is off.

 

[gunnye7t]

Power supplied only by the Bluetti.

In my other vehicle I have a Viofo A329S 3 channel cam using the Viofo HK6 hardwire kit.
The HK6 is connected to the DC5521 port of the Bluetti.

Prefer to keep the vehicle battery out of the loop.
In both vehicles I am using the Bluetti Charger 1 to charge the power stations directly off the vehicle battery.

Retro Car Guy helped remind me a relay would be best for the Vueroid setup.

 

[GPak]

Maybe I misunderstood then...you are speaking of only powering by the Bluetti, is that correct? I am thinking of how to provision the Bluetti to function as a backup when the ignition is off.

@lufa6977, look at the attached sketch.
I think @rcg530 suggested exactly this, and it's the best solution for automatically triggering the parking ACC.

Although most, if not all, power stations are non-isolated design, meaning they share a common ground/negative, separating the power station circuit from the vehicle's circuit is still a good idea.
Of course, this adds an extra relay and wiring, but it eliminates any potential phantom voltages and phantom currents.

As rcg530 pointed out, we can use the car's positive ACC output to connect to the dash cam's positive ACC wire.
This is the simplest solution, requiring the least amount of DIY.
It works perfectly with Viofo dash cams using traditional parking modes, without any issues. (with Ecopflow and Anker power stations)

However, this didn't work with the Thinkware U3000 with radar parking mode due to phantom millivolts in the vehicle's ACC wire.
Neither adding a reverse current protection diode nor a resistor helped.
This relay solution suggested by rcg530 would solve this issue for the U3000. (att. @ankurthakurofficial, @SparksNation)

 

[forcefed]

Here's how im powering the s1 with my ecoflow, using the 12v port rather than usb.
If you're using a switched 12v from the car you also need to use the ground from the car which is connected to the ecoflow ground, that's how i got parking mode to work, without the car ground it wouldn't enter parking mode.

 

[lufa6977]

@lufa6977, look at the attached sketch.
I think @rcg530 suggested exactly this, and it's the best solution for automatically triggering the parking ACC.

Although most, if not all, power stations are non-isolated design, meaning they share a common ground/negative, separating the power station circuit from the vehicle's circuit is still a good idea.
Of course, this adds an extra relay and wiring, but it eliminates any potential phantom voltages and phantom currents.

As rcg530 pointed out, we can use the car's positive ACC output to connect to the dash cam's positive ACC wire.
This is the simplest solution, requiring the least amount of DIY.
It works perfectly with Viofo dash cams using traditional parking modes, without any issues. (with Ecopflow and Anker power stations)

However, this didn't work with the Thinkware U3000 with radar parking mode due to phantom millivolts in the vehicle's ACC wire.
Neither adding a reverse current protection diode nor a resistor helped.
This relay solution suggested by rcg530 would solve this issue for the U3000. (att. @ankurthakurofficial, @SparksNation)

Thank you! I believe I was missing it on the 2nd Bluetti 12v connections. Of course, it did not help that I decided to add in a 5-pin relay and a switch. I way overcomplicated the entire process. << head-slap >>

 

[gunnye7t]

All good advise. Thanks again.
Always good to see how others have solved their parking mode setup issues.

I went with Bluetti as it has a "port memory" option ( System Switch Recovery ).
If the power station drains to shutoff then when power level once again reaches 5% the ports will re-enable and restore power.

 

[gunnye7t]

So I determined that if I had read the Vueroid manual I would have known that Vueroid wires their hardwire kits backwards from say Viofo and Rove.
Viofo and Rove have Bat+ on red and Acc on Yellow.
Vueroid is flipped. No problem. All good.

I do like the idea of using the relay and second DC port on the power station. This will isolate the dashcam from vehicle power.
The Charger 1 Black -wire is attached to vehicle frame so that puts the power station DC ports on same ground.

So new question.
When wired as Vueroid suggests does the dashcam run from Bat+ red wire when the engine is running and then switch to Acc yellow wire for Parking mode ?
If so, is any power drawn from the power station when the engine is running ?

 

[rcg530]

So new question.
When wired as Vueroid suggests does the dashcam run from Bat+ red wire when the engine is running and then switch to Acc yellow wire for Parking mode ?
If so, is any power drawn from the power station when the engine is running ?

The Vueroid hardwire cable wire colors are Yellow for BAT+ and Red for ACC.

Vueroid [as do most all dash cameras / hardwire kits] use the constant BAT+ power to power all dash camera operations [ignition system on or parked]. In your situation, the power station would be providing the operational power to the dash camera.

The dash camera does not switch between the BAT+ power and the ACC power to for its operational power. The ACC wire is used only to detect/sense when non-zero voltage [12V] is present [driving/ignition on] or voltage is absent [parked].