SG9663DR update

Not if you stick the mount to the plastic trim or use the right angled connector for the rear cam.
99% of them get stuck to the window, like I said you can always come up with some scenario where you might find a different design suits your application better, we need to cater to the majority though for reasons of practicality

I hope the other design is what some of us expected.
I don't remember anyone ever submitting any design ideas ;)

what you want to build, it what is practical/possible to build is not always the same thing, size is one factor but there are a number of issues with the other design which is the main reason to change it in the first place
 
what you want to build, it what is practical/possible to build is not always the same thing, size is one factor but there are a number of issues with the other design which is the main reason to change it in the first place

So the other one is also not a wedge design?
 
I'm not sure if it was overlooked, but the existing wedge design cameras are also compatible

Yes, that's an option. A smaller version would have been a nice upgrade.
 
For instance, let's take Tony's car from the pic. Where and how would he mount the DC rear cam?
Since you are taking my car as an example, I am fortunate that I have a hard plastic tailgate liner that is almost parallel to the road. The most compact design if I mount on the liner is the DCPRO rear camera, however the cable is then visible on the surface of the liner, and the liner does vibrate a bit at speed which affects image quality. If I mount on the glass, then the DR camera is more discrete, plus the cable can be tucked away under the liner and mounting on the glass is more secure.
 
The DR camera sits further away from the glass than the DCPRO rear camera. I don't know how that will affect reflections?
 
For my dad's 2003 Honda Pilot20200630_165504.jpg20200630_165512.jpg20200630_165541.jpg20200630_165604.jpg20200630_203754.jpg20200630_203825.jpg
 
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Yes it is a bit unlike installing dashcams of the traditional design, but it is not a insurmountable task, just got to know and plan ahead a little.
Personally i blitzed my install and had it done in 30 minutes or so, but i am also very familiar with my car, and i have tried to work with this kind of system already with the K2S system.
 
Yes it is a bit unlike installing dashcams of the traditional design, but it is not a insurmountable task, just got to know and plan ahead a little.
Personally i blitzed my install and had it done in 30 minutes or so, but i am also very familiar with my car, and i have tried to work with this kind of system already with the K2S system.

Really depends on your car type and how much "wiggle room" there is for cables. I know on SUV's, the only way to get it flush on the glass is to route it from the headliner through the rubber cable that carries wires to the rear gate. Will include picture shortly.
20200630_205510.jpg
 
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I took the very easy route as it is just a temporary install i have now, in time the DR will probably end up permanent on my side windows.
My K2S cameras there now on the fixed glass on my rear doors are routed thru the door and the rubber ducting for the speaker cable ( no electric windows on my rear doors )
It was fairly easy to feed the USB C cables thru that way.
 
I'll try to get shots of what the cameras look like from the outside tomorrow when there is better lighting (and I clean the window). Just updated both cameras to v1.10
 
Really depends on your car type and how much "wiggle room" there is for cables. I know on SUV's, the only way to get it flush on the glass is to route it from the headliner through the rubber cable that carries wires to the rear gate. Will include picture shortly.
View attachment 52425
please tell me you plan to replace that rubber boot asap - if you don't, you'll be getting water in your headliner every time it rains or you wash the car.
 
please tell me you plan to replace that rubber boot asap - if you don't, you'll be getting water in your headliner every time it rains or you wash the car.

I was planning to wrap it in electrical tape, but honestly the water doesn't drain through that way. It would be near impossible to get the dashcam cable through that small rubber tubing (due to the 90 degree connector) and trust me I tried for a good 20 minutes before I cut it like that. Also note the cut is facing towards the headliner and there aren't any exposed wires there. It may not be the perfect way to do it, but depending on the tubing on your SUV, there is no other way to get a flush install through the headliner.

If I could describe it

------- rear hatch drain -------
rear hatch if opened
 
For anyone else following this thread:

, FYI it’s best to run the front of the cable through any grommet holes and or boot covers first since the front camera side plug is straight and much thinner as well.
 
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