Solved? Overheating of 400 & 500

[Hillbilly]

6.0V -> cam turned on, but immediately began to overload
6.5V -> cam involved, worked
when you turn off immediately switched off
suspect can not charge ionistor to end recording
7.0V -> cam involved,worked
when you turn off reached the the first phrase "...." and went out, too, seems not quite loaded ionistor may simply not have enough time
7.5V -> cam is up and running, sort of like when you turn off all said, but I suspect that the limit
8.2V -> turned on and off by the normal scheme.

current is more than 500mA
scale only 500 :roll:

sorry my english

Thank you for that Obviously not as simple as my problem was

 

[duncam]

Changing the voltage of the input would only greatly affect the heat if Pittasoft used inefficient linear regulators... If the camera is pulling 500mA at 12V the regulator is probably only using 50mA, turning off the WIFI function would save more power...

Guess I'll not bother with that voltage converter then - thanks for putting me right on that, Joshua

 

[duncam]

power magic ---> 4 pcs ru version :lol:
Korean version below

Do these little modules just have the same function as the "Power Magic", Mio?

 

[Mio]

they have better functionality than the Korean version
step voltage to turn off 0.1 from 11.1 to 12.8
off timer from 30 minutes to 50 days
indication (LED) flashing to determine the voltage on parameterization

 

[jokiin]

they have better functionality than the Korean version
step voltage to turn off 0.1 from 11.1 to 12.8
off timer from 30 minutes to 50 days
indication (LED) flashing to determine the voltage on parameterization

do they support 24v as well or only suitable for 12v systems?

 

[Mio]

currently only 12V
it was a test version

 

[jokiin]

currently only 12V
it was a test version

Ok, is this something you're going to be selling, is it your product or someone else's?

I'm looking for something like this now

 

[Mio]

Later will come the author

 

[jokiin]

Later will come the author

ok, please ask him to contact me, this looks like a good solution, maybe better than the one I was looking to use

 

[SKov]

Hi,
Have you any questions about Magic_RU?
The microSD is placed for the scale.
In the top right coner of the picture you can see the sensor pad.
Below MC you can see the LED. That's all what we need for the control of this device.

 

[jokiin]

Hi,
Have you any questions about Magic_RU?

yes, I'm interested in adding a low voltage and time cutoff protection to our product and this looks to be a good solution, better than the alternative I had been looking at it seems as yours has much more adjustment

 

[SKov]

yes, I'm interested in adding a low voltage and time cutoff protection to our product and this looks to be a good solution, better than the alternative I had been looking at it seems as yours has much more adjustment

My device mentioned above has a lot of advantages but you have to solder the input wires and output wires.
I prepared the next version which was improved in this part.
What kind of Magic_RU do you prefer?

 

[micahfy]

Could any confirm that the lower voltage could reduce the heat issue?

 

[Hillbilly]

Could any confirm that the lower voltage could reduce the heat issue?

The Blackvue cameras run on 12 volt so may not like reducing the voltage too far

 

[micahfy]

Could any confirm that the lower voltage could reduce the heat issue?

The Blackvue cameras run on 12 volt so may not like reducing the voltage too far

With the custom FW my camera ran at about 90degree which is too high, I'm considering reduce the voltage to 9v. I wish to know if anyone has done this before I do some modification to the power cable.

 

[duncam]

... I'm considering reduce the voltage to 9v. I wish to know if anyone has done this before I do some modification to the power cable.

I thought about buying a 12v>9v reducer for installing between the battery and the camera, but in light of Joshua's (Zapwizard) comment above have not done so, and cannot therefore add anything useful to the discussion .
It would be most interesting to hear whether anyone else has tried going down this path, though, as I do not imagine (though I am entirely non-expert :lol: ) that it would be likely to affect the camera detrimentally :?:

 

[Hillbilly]

... I'm considering reduce the voltage to 9v. I wish to know if anyone has done this before I do some modification to the power cable.

I thought about buying a 12v>9v reducer for installing between the battery and the camera, but in light of Joshua's (Zapwizard) comment above have not done so, and cannot therefore add anything useful to the discussion .
It would be most interesting to hear whether anyone else has tried going down this path, though, as I do not imagine (though I am entirely non-expert :lol: ) that it would be likely to affect the camera detrimentally :?:

You cant have read the earlier posts as Mio has posted in at least 3 places the result of trying lower voltages 1st post on page 3 for one.

 

[duncam]

HillBilly- it was upon reading Zapwizard's comment "Changing the voltage of the input would only greatly affect the heat if Pittasoft used inefficient linear regulators, which considering how well designed the rest of the internal electronics were I doubt..." that I decided not to waste time trying a 12v>9v reducer :roll:

 

[micahfy]

My reducer will be shipped today, I will test it with 9v and update the result.

 

[micahfy]

Just tested it with the 9v input, the temperature still very high, guess I will go back to original FW since it is way too hot with the custom one.