Some dashcam questions

lseyogata95

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  1. Advantages/disadvantages with having a screen on the dashcam? I much prefer the blackvue/thinkware look over the bulky viofo.
  2. Does dual channel dash cam wear down the car battery a lot more than a single cam.
  3. Can dashcams and wiring be removed looking like it's never been installed? Broken car clips? Cracking plastic trims and headliner.
  4. Once installed by hardwire. Can I switch between different dashcam (ie blackvue to thinkware to viofo) or must remain with the original brand.
Thanks and look forward to buying soon.
 
1. If you are happy using your phone for occasional setup/viewing then there is no advantage of a screen, most screens are off 99.9% of the time anyway.
1b. Viofo cameras are not bulky, it is just that their advertising shows the cameras massively enlarged, they are really more gopro sized! The Viofo cameras are often easy to hide behind the dotted areas of windscreen and so are largely invisible from the outside other than a small lens, while the tube shaped cameras often end up with the whole tube visible from the outside.

2. Only during parking mode, when a dual camera is likely to use very roughly 40% more power than a single camera.

3. Yes, although it depends on who is doing the work! If you are capable of simple DIY then you should be OK.

4. Generally, the hardwire kit goes with the camera, or at least with the brand. Sometimes they can be partially compatible, but the hardwire kit is normally a small amount of the cost, and not particularly difficult to install, so it is not a big issue unless you intend to try several in rapid succession. A decent camera should last for many years anyway.
 
I like to have a screen, even if i can not read the settings menus without my reading glasses, you will not be the first one dismissing some cameras as they appear large, but most dashcams are adequate small, if you go by volume of the housing the Viofo cameras are probably the same as any BV / TW camera

But you are right in that some cameras are more suites VS others in some cars, the wedge cameras often come off as just another sensor on the windscreen, the Barrel shaped cameras can be a better choice in other cases.
We all want out setup to be as stealthy as possible, i have a dotted area in front of my roof mounted mirror, so i can mount wedge cameras there so just the bottom 1/3 with the lens peek out below the dotted area, making for a very stealthy install.

Yes only relevant in parking mode, but we are still talking milliamps they use.

Yes thats no problem, if the camera have been hardwired into a fuse to enable parking mode, you just have to take out the piggy back fuse adapter and put the original fuse back in its place, and then of course remove the wires.
If you have a regular setup powered by the dashboard cigarette lighter socket, you just have to remove the wires.
The cameras them self can either be installed with a suction cup ( rare these days ) or with dual sided tape, they do stick on well with the tape and it can require a solvent to completely remove any trace of it being there.

You can probably switch cameras between the piggy back fuses, meaning use the same piggy back fuse adapters in the place they are, some modern cars can be a little fussy about what fuse to use, which can cause irregular behavior, but with the right fuses used it will most often work as indented.
Most hard wire kits today are the 3 wire kind, meaning there is a always on +12 V wire, and a ACC on +12 V wire, and then ground to connect, but the hard wire kits are not universal you will need to get a BV hard wire kit for a BV camera and a TW hard wire kit for a TW camera.
If you have / want to have 2 systems hard wired, you can do that of the same piggy back fuses, but as a hard wire kit only have 1 output and usually also only enough power for one camera, you will need to connect 2 hard wire kits to the 12 V piggy back fuses in your fuse box.
And this can just fine be different brands of hard wire kits / cameras, as you are just sharing on the 12 V side of things that will be alright, but if you have used a 5 A fuse for the dashcam, with 2 systems connected you might want to go up to a 7 A fuse,,,,,,, at least that should be on your mind.

On youtube you will find many videos on how to install a dashcam in a car ( regular power and hard wire ) in general this is the same in most cars in regard how to route wires and how plastic trim are removed from A pillars and so on.

It do not require intricate DIY skills to install a dashcam, but you do of course have to know how to treat DC power and not short + and - wires, beyond that you just need basic tools like a Phillips head screwdriver.

Me knowing my little car well after having put in and taken out dashcams for a decade, i can put in a new dual channel system in under a hour, and if it is not hard wire i can do that on a gravel road in between Mr. Johansens fields.
If it is hard wire i do need a soldering iron as thats how i like to put wires together VS using crimp connectors / tool or some screw together gizmo.
 
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Welcome to DCT @lseyogata95

Screens are nice when apps don't function but are otherwise unnecessary and add only to size, cost, and complexity. All the better screenless cams today are OK witghout them, but when considering a purchase also research the app as you may not like it and sometimes they don't work well with every phone.

I have a big battery so running a 2-channel cam overnight isn't an issue for me, but a small car with a small battery will differ. You will lose some battery service life doing this but I figure my costs to be $0.50 per day or less so I'm happy with that.

Cars vary considerably, but with almost all of them doing things carefully will allow an install/uninstall without any damage to the car at all. Older cars with older well-clipped-in plastic trim are of course more vulnerable to damage.

Best to use the HWK sold with the cam, but many of the better ones can be used with other cams- too many possible combinations to say for sure until specific cams and HWK's are mentioned.

Phil
 
Screens are nice when apps don't function but are otherwise unnecessary and add only to size, cost, and complexity.

Phil
it's possible to make cameras without a screen smaller but there are many examples of screenless cameras that are larger than models with screens so that can go either way, as to cost and complexity a screen is cheaper than wifi and an app, simpler also, there's good reason so many entry level cameras are built with screens and without wifi, they couldn't hit their price points otherwise, quite correct though that screens are nice when apps don't function, cameras with no screen are great when everything functions smoothly, it's when things go wrong that no screen becomes a problem
 
there's good reason so many entry level cameras are built with screens and without wifi,
The wifi on the cheap cameras is often not good, often too slow to play without buffering. Not having wifi will remove the support costs from all the customers wanting easy connection and smooth playback!
 
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