Started testing Cam failure ( Voltage levels )

old4570

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Dash Cam
Front: 70MAI , Ausdom A261, Mini 0826 , Rear: A118c

My test subject is a Viofo A118c ( capacitor cam )

I feed the cam 5v down to just over 4v ( failure to run )
Anything above 4.7v and the cam ran smoothly , no flickering on the screen etc
Once we came down to 4.5v , flickering was noticeable on the LCD , and there was video noise ..
Around 3.35v flickering on the LCD was very pronounced and there was serious noise in the video
Failure to run ( Shut down - restart ) seemed to be triggered around 4.1 volt ( 4.1 - 4.14 volt region )

Also .. As a side note !
The USB cable may affect voltage ...
I have a rather long cable as it was modded from a sig lighter source ( wanted a USB cable with red and black wires ) and the length / quality of such may also be responsible for voltage levels .
This looks like something else to check out ..


My recommendation to everyone out there :

Buy a USB charge doctor , and check the voltage and current that is getting to your cam if you are having cam issues ..
A flickering screen , noisy video , could all be symptoms of low voltage reaching your cam ..
 
Another is a bad USB cable ...
I just threw another USB cable in the rubbish bin ...
Cam was flickering and would not run properly .. ( USB cable )
 
I suggest you pick up one of these USB Load testers, these are pretty good to have for testing power supplies and cables.

It just needs to be calibrated with a multimeter to increase the readout accuracy.
 
Oooooh , Looks sweet ...

I already have 3 different types of USB Dummy Loads for testing Power banks and stuff ...
One is switchable between 1A and 2A .. Great to see how much current a PS can supply ...
This small PS I am using was never intended for more than voltage testing , but should be rated to 2A I think ( seller recommends 1.5A )
I ordered another today , rated 150Watt ( ? )
150Watt ?????????? Yeah .... Anyhow ...
I plan on testing more 12v to 5v Dash cam power supplies .. Especially the safety cut off ones ... ( There is another in the mail (?) )
 
Those "charger doctor" gadgets aren't all created equally- I recall reading a test some where which showed a gross inaccuracy with a few of the cheapest ones and inconsistent results with a few of the more expensive ones. I can't recall where I saw that info but I do remember I considered the source trustworthy. Another consideration is losses at the connections- no electrical connection is without some inherent electrical resistance and you're adding one more connection when you use it.

I'm being nit-picky here but all in the interest of you getting the most accurate results from your tests ;) It's going to be good to see which cams do what when the voltage drops which will help diagnose problems people have- a big thumbs-up to you :D

Phil
 
Those "charger doctor" gadgets aren't all created equally- I recall reading a test some where which showed a gross inaccuracy with a few of the cheapest ones and inconsistent results with a few of the more expensive ones. I can't recall where I saw that info but I do remember I considered the source trustworthy. Another consideration is losses at the connections- no electrical connection is without some inherent electrical resistance and you're adding one more connection when you use it.

I'm being nit-picky here but all in the interest of you getting the most accurate results from your tests ;) It's going to be good to see which cams do what when the voltage drops which will help diagnose problems people have- a big thumbs-up to you :D

Phil

Absolutely and definitely !
I can put a MM at the power source , unfortunately that does not matter ...
Its at the cam end that it matters .. And I would love to get my MM in there so to speak .. Unfortunately its USB , no where to poke with a MM ..
The charge doctors are another factor , they are not equal , and they do add to the result ..
So rather than as an absolute , it becomes ball park ..
And ball park is better than nothing !
+ I have a more accurate USB Charge Doctor in the mail ( I hope )
And hopefully I can poke it with a MM ( Open design )
 
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