Video file issues when re-muxing/appending (corrupted file?)

[speedingcheetah]

Nice and handy suite, good work..!👍

But I was going to comment the same – a Mac OS version would be great!
If any Mac users here occasionally dabble over on the dark side and would know how to translate the scripts etc, that would be much appreciated..! 😀

Well, i just added disclosure to my post and the edited OP post.

I can't take full credit for the scripts code, i "vibe coded" them by asking MS Co-Pilot for them.
I do have past windows scripting experience, but too lazy and been too long since i really dove into it, to make it all from scratch....i did have to manually tweak a few things in the code myself. AI tools often get you ~98% of the way there at best, in my experience.

You could save the .bat as a .txt and upload it to one of those AI tools, like ChatGPT or Google Gemini, and ask it to convert it etc to work on MacOS. See what happens. lol
I am not experienced enough with MacOS and have no clue what scripting things it uses.

 

[SC@AU]

You could save the .bat as a .txt and upload it to one of those AI tools, like ChatGPT or Google Gemini, and ask it to convert it etc to work on MacOS. See what happens. lol

I may well give that a try at some point….
What could possibly go wrong…!? 🤣

 

[Chuck McCoy]

I have been using the same identical setup, 12v cig outlet with a 3 way adapter (that powers other things) for 10yrs. Never had this issue with any of my past cams, ever.
Not the A119 Mini 2,

A lot of these newer dash cameras are power hungry.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I think Ben hit the nail on the head, (Power Starvation Malfunction).
I would rule out power starvation first before writing scrips & codes, (easiest / quickest first).
I would buy this Type-C Power Tester for $12 to check for power starvation issues;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0D529Z22P
It looks like this;

 

[Chuck McCoy]

I have been using the same identical setup, 12v cig outlet with a 3 way adapter (that powers other things) for 10yrs. Never had this issue with any of my past cams, ever.
Not the A119 Mini 2

A lot of these newer dash cameras are power hungry.

According to this chart I stole from you know who A119 Mini 2 max power consumption is around 3.5 Watts.

A329S 3CH max power consumption is closer to 15 Watts.
That’s almost 4 times the current / amperage.

 

[speedingcheetah]

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I think Ben hit the nail on the head, (Power Starvation Malfunction).
I would rule out power starvation first before writing scrips & codes, (easiest / quickest first).
I would buy this Type-C Power Tester for $12 to check for power starvation issues;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0D529Z22P
It looks like this;

I have a couple of those, but older ones, not for usb C. And i have used A to C adapters before and they can cause issues. So best to use direct to C.
will have to pick that up

According to this chart I stole from you know who A119 Mini 2 max power consumption is around 3.5 Watts.

A329S 3CH max power consumption is closer to 15 Watts.
That’s almost 4 times the current / amperage.

The included power plug for the cam says its outputs 5V/3A. So that is max 15 watts then looks like.

I can not find specific power requirements for the Sandisk ssd i am using (SDSSDE61-1T00-G25) its the Extreme 1TB VIOFO recommends.
AI says up to 1.1amp under full load, other says ~2.5-4.5 watts under load, is typical for very fast NVME based ssd, which that portable ssd is.
However, we are not maxing out the ssd, not even close.
It is limited to USB 2.0 speeds, so it would not ever reach full load, or full power usage. Though, the data speeds may be capped to USB 2.0, but, the port could support power output of USB 3.0 perhaps?
My old Samsung T3 1TB drive, apparently uses less power due to its slower USB 3.0 spec and ability.

I still lean towards more a firmware optimization thing is needed. As, the video files themselves are not corrupted enough that video players have issue with them.

The only other thing that changed with my setup, aside from the addition of the Rear cam to make things 3ch, is i swapped out the 1.8M SSD cable, for the 2.5M one.
But again, i swear, i have came across this remuxing error before the recent changes, just was not so obvious.

 

[speedingcheetah]

More data/info! The plot thickens!

I ran Error Check script on the last few days of files i still have on the Sandisk ssd drive.

This included when i was in 2ch setup, with just Telephoto cam installed, and the 1.8M ssd cable.
All other settings are the same as they are now in 3ch setup. HDR ON, 4K/2K 30fps 2min file lengths

(stop means mid-trip power shut off. Last file, means end of trip power off, parked at home)

One file from the Tele only was flagged on 9-23. (short single drive, last file)
One file from the Tele only was flagged on 9-24. (short single drive, last file)
2 files from Tele & 2 files from Front was flagged 9-25. (long day out, multiple stops, mid trip, not last file)

--9-27 Added Rear Cam, 3CH setup and longer SSD cable.--

9-27 No errors in any of the files as I power cycled the cam several times, during install and initial testing/first short drive.

One file from Front was flagged (mid-drive night) 9-28 (longer drive morning 3 power stops, one in the morning, one later nighttime one stop)

2 files from Tele & 2 files from Rear flagged 9-28. These both were from the 2nd (of 3 stops) and then last file. (moderate trip, 3 stops)

Each one of those flagged files, is when i turned off my car, and thus the power was cut to the cam.
But, as you can see, it is not every time a power off happens.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I think Ben hit the nail on the head, (Power Starvation Malfunction).
I would rule out power starvation first before writing scrips & codes, (easiest / quickest first).
I would buy this Type-C Power Tester for $12 to check for power starvation issues;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0D529Z22P
It looks like this;

If it is a power issue, then would using a higher output USB adapter help? One that is 5A or something?
Or is 5V/3A the highest they go? (
Edit looks like 3A is the highest the 5V spec goes. Looked at various Anker and Ugreen models online and the higher watt usb C charging output used higher voltage to achieve that higher power output. )

Would the cam itself even pull higher than the 3A if plugged into a higher output adapter? They may have hardware or firmware limited its power draw.

 

[rcg530]

Here's my power consumption data for the A329S 3CH from when I first received an A329S prototype for testing. The SSD used was a 1TB SanDisk Extreme Pro SSD. The max Watts with the SSD was 13.07.

The capacitor in the A329S only needs to have enough power to allow the dash camera to close out the active video files. It will not wait for the full video loop length to be completed. It will close out the video files at whatever point it's at when the external power is lost. It should result in a graceful closure of the video files and a graceful dismounting of the SSD's disk volume.

I'm powering an A329S 3-channel using a prototype VIOFO OBD-II power adapter. The SSD is connected via VIOFO's 2.5m cable. I've not encountered any corrupted video files with this setup.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

If it is a power issue

If I suspected a power starvation malfunction, the first thing I would do is isolate the dashcam’s power source.
This means running a dedicated / separate circuit just for the dash cam, with no other devices.
You can do this 10 different ways.
Figure out a way with whatever you have on hand so you don’t have to spend unnecessary money.

Eventually I might consider getting an HK6, and running it in “driving mode” operation only, (no parking mode).
I think you said you don’t use parking mode, (only driving / normal recording mode).
You do this by connecting the red + yellow wires of the HK6 together, and connecting to a switched / ACC power source only.
This means the camera will only operate in normal recording mode with “engine running” and it will never operate in parking mode.
Again, this is because I think you said you only use driving / normal recording mode, and never parking mode.

The HK6 is beefed up with thicker 18AWG wires compared to only 20AWG wires on the HK4.
This means less voltage drop.
Less voltage drop = less chance of power starvation malfunction.

Thread 'VIOFO HK6 Hardwire Cable - Test & Review PP'

Jul 24, 2025

I’ve been testing / using the HK6 for a month now, and I’ve been posting tid bits in my A329S thread, but I haven’t been able to go full bore because my “newest” HK4 for contrast / comparison is 2 years old.
Ben @SafeDriveSolutions was was telling me a while back the “modern” HK4’s have been upgraded to reduce parasitic current draw when the camera is powered down, or not even connected.
So I’ve been holding off on doing any meaningful power consumption testing until I got my hands a “current production” HK4.
Well the wait is over, and I have a feeling this is going to get in depth...

• Chuck McCoy
• Replies: 112
• Forum: VIOFO Other

• 

 

[Chuck McCoy]

The max Watts with the SSD was 13.07.

Was this with "speaker active"?
Just kidding. lol

 

[speedingcheetah]

Here's my power consumption data for the A329S 3CH from when I first received an A329S prototype for testing. The SSD used was a 1TB SanDisk Extreme Pro SSD. The max Watts with the SSD was 13.07.

View attachment 85934

The capacitor in the A329S only needs to have enough power to allow the dash camera to close out the active video files. It will not wait for the full video loop length to be completed. It will close out the video files at whatever point it's at when the external power is lost. It should result in a graceful closure of the video files and a graceful dismounting of the SSD's disk volume.

I'm powering an A329S 3-channel using a prototype VIOFO OBD-II power adapter. The SSD is connected via VIOFO's 2.5m cable. I've not encountered any corrupted video files with this setup.

I wasn’t expecting it to completely write the rest of the allotted loop recording time. And I don’t think the length of that whether it’s one minute or five minutes makes any difference in the power draw or time needed for closure of the video file when the camera shuts down.

I still am questionable about it being a power issue as the core cause, seeing as when it was using less power in only two channel mode it still did it. And it’s not doing it 100% consistently every time the camera has its power cut.

Would getting the hardwire kit, but wiring a cig plug end to its cables, and plugging it into where my current usb power plug is do anything worthwhile?
I know that’s not at all really isolating things or giving it a a dedicated power supply circuit, but I think it is the best I could do really.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

Would getting the hardwire kit, but wiring a cig plug end to its cables, and plugging it into where my current usb power plug is do anything worthwhile?

No.
Six, or half dozen same thing.
Garbage in, garbage out.
You must isolate the power circuit.
The power starvation is most likely occurring from where you are currently plugging into right now.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

Would getting the hardwire kit, but wiring a cig plug end to its cables, and plugging it into where my current usb power plug is do anything worthwhile?
I know that’s not at all really isolating things or giving it a a dedicated power supply circuit, but I think it is the best I could do really.

Do you have a cheap $20 power bank that is capable of 5V 3A.
That's what I use to use before I installed dash cam battery packs.
Just make sure to use the included original 20AWG Viofo USB Type-C power cable.

 

[speedingcheetah]

Do you have a cheap $20 power bank that is capable of 5V 3A.
That's what I use to use before I installed dash cam battery packs.
Just make sure to use the included original 20AWG Viofo USB Type-C power cable.

I have an older Ravpower branded power bank that has usb c port. However I tried powering up the camera with that power bank when I first got the cam inside so that I could update the firmware and adjust settings before installing in Vehicle. It would not power the camera at all. It might be too old or is not outputting the USB PD charging standard that the camera needs.

 

[rcg530]

It was recommended to me some time ago to gracefully power down the dash camera when I ran into some odd behavior/content with video files that are created around the time the camera powers down.

I've gotten into the [good] habit of manually powering down the dash camera before the power source is turned off.

As a diagnostic, I might suggest manually turning off the A329S using the super_long_press of the A329S <PWR/Menu> button. If after a period of time operating in that manner there are no video files with the corruption issue you've noted, then it may point at the supercapacitor not holding enough of a charge to gracefully closeout the video files on the disk before running out of power.

 

[speedingcheetah]

It was recommended to me some time ago to gracefully power down the dash camera when I ran into some odd behavior/content with video files that are created around the time the camera powers down.

I've gotten into the [good] habit of manually powering down the dash camera before the power source is turned off.

As a diagnostic, I might suggest manually turning off the A329S using the super_long_press of the A329S <PWR/Menu> button. If after a period of time operating in that manner there are no video files with the corruption issue you've noted, then it may point at the supercapacitor not holding enough of a charge to gracefully closeout the video files on the disk before running out of power.

So do you mean just hold down the power button while the unit is recording to force a graceful shutdown?

Or, stop recording manually first by pressing the Record button, then hold down the power button until it shuts off?

 

[rcg530]

So do you mean just hold down the power button while the unit is recording to force a graceful shutdown?

Or, stop recording manually first by pressing the Record button, then hold down the power button until it shuts off?

Both approaches do the same thing. The long press of the power button now first enters the firmware settings menu [which stops the active recordings] before it performs a power down.

I usually quick press the PWR button to turn on the screen if it's off and then I perform the long press to eventually power it off.

 

[speedingcheetah]

Both approaches do the same thing. The long press of the power button now first enters the firmware settings menu [which stops the active recordings] before it performs a power down.

I usually quick press the PWR button to turn on the screen if it's off and then I perform the long press to eventually power it off.

You know… What would be really cool if you could program one of the buttons on their little fancy Bluetooth remote control accessory, so that it performs the stop recording and safely shut down function. That would be super useful.

 

[rcg530]

You know… What would be really cool if you could program one of the buttons on their little fancy Bluetooth remote control accessory, so that it performs the stop recording and safely shut down function. That would be super useful.

You can assign one of the side buttons of the BTR200 Bluetooth remote to "Power Off" the dash camera.

 

[speedingcheetah]

You can assign one of the side buttons of the BTR200 Bluetooth remote to "Power Off" the dash camera.

What? U can? Since when? I don’t recall seeing that listed as an available option when I looked at it while back.

Edit: I shall now have to acquire this magic wand of the remote control to power off the camera safely remotely then!

 

[rcg530]

What? U can? Since when? I don’t recall seeing that listed as an available option when I looked at it while back.

Before replying, I confirmed the A329S [although I do have a v2.0 firmware installed] has it listed as something like the fourth or fifth option in the list.