Viofo a329s Low impact parking mode usage

[Forester25]

Well my a329s two camera is pulling .041 amps in Low Impact Parking Mode. That is with a reading of 5.005 volts, yey got one of those USB-C testers as you can guess.

So would that mean the amps being used at the 12 volt battery would be about half of the .041 amps ??

 

[LateralNW]

041 amps i

Works out to approx .017A. 17mA @~12V

 

[GPak]

On top of 0.017A (17mA) there will be additional draw by hardwire kit - HK6 or HK4.
If my memory is correct - I think the idling current was reported around 8mA, and connected to A329S/T in LPID parking mode, the total current was approximately 42mA, or so.
EDIT: corrected decimals - mA vs A

Found it:

B

Thread 'Consumption A329S 2CH + HK6 kit cable'

Sep 14, 2025

I received the A329S 2CH front and rear, and the HK6 hardware kit. Before installing it on the car, I performed some power consumption tests.
This is the report:

• Briseide
• Replies: 12
• Forum: A329S

• 

 

[Forester25]

I find maybe a error in the chart. As it states Low Power Impact is .041 amps at 12.6 volts but what I get is .041 amps at 5.oo5 volts. That is a fair amount difference. So I would question if the amp readings were 12.6 volts or 5.0 volts ?? The reading I took was after the HK6 but before the a329s. The amp reading of regular 2 camera recording during driving was .853 amps at 5 volts.

 

[rcg530]

I find maybe an error in the chart. As it states Low Power Impact is .041 amps at 12.6 volts but what I get is .041 amps at 5.oo5 volts. That is a fair amount difference. So I would question if the amp readings were 12.6 volts or 5.0 volts ?? The reading I took was after the HK6 but before the a329s. The amp reading of regular 2 camera recording during driving was .853 amps at 5 volts.

Those were at 12.6v since I monitor the 12V side of the hardwire kit since that’s the actual load on the car battery or dash cam battery pack

 

[GPak]

@Forester25
If you connect a tester between the 5-volt USB-C connector of the HK6 cable and the dashcam, you will see readings reflecting the power consumption of ONLY the dashcam itself. (41mA at 5V, or 17mA at 12V)

These readings do not account for the current consumed by the HK6 hardwire kit, which is situated in the circuit between the 12V battery and the dashcam.
Therefore, to determine the total current draw from the 12V battery, you must add the current consumed by the HK6 to the 17mA value of the dashcam, and the combined consumption may amount to 42mA at 12V, or so.

You can measure this total current between the 12V battery and the HK6, using a multimeter - take measurements on the black wire.

EDIT: corrected decimals - mA vs A.

 

[Forester25]

Well it seems you both are correct in that I am not measuring the total effect of the Viofo equipment. My ground wire connection is under a dash side panel and not easy to get to. And I agree that would be the only true way to measure. I will either try to get to the ground wire to check (only because I am curious) or just say it is what it is. Any way I am glad to get the low power requirement.

 

[SafeDriveSolutions]

Well it seems you both are correct in that I am not measuring the total effect of the Viofo equipment. My ground wire connection is under a dash side panel and not easy to get to. And I agree that would be the only true way to measure. I will either try to get to the ground wire to check (only because I am curious) or just say it is what it is. Any way I am glad to get the low power requirement.

Current draw is metered through constant power wire. Ground is not needed for current draw tests.

 

[GPak]

Current draw is metered through constant power wire. Ground is not needed for current draw tests.

In general, measuring DC current on either the positive or negative wire yields identical results.
However, when the dashcam is operating in standard recording mode, the presence of the ACC signal makes a noticeable difference, even though the current draw of the signal itself is practically negligible.
Based on tests I conducted quite some time ago, the current in the negative wire is somewhat higher.
In parking mode, the ACC signal is OFF and likely has no influence; nevertheless, I prefer to measure the current on the negative wire - just to be on the safe side.

 

[Forester25]

Well curiosity got the best of me. Pulled the panel off to get to the ground wire. Have a couple multi-meters but having a problem getting parking ma reading. Using 10 amp mode works fine for regular recording mode. Being .42 amps at 12v. But when it goes in to parking mode it just lowers the reading till it seems to after park mode starts just seems to shut off. I guess I do not know the right technique to use.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

I guess I do not know the right technique to use.

 

[rcg530]

Well curiosity got the best of me. Pulled the panel off to get to the ground wire. Have a couple multi-meters but having a problem getting parking ma reading. Using 10 amp mode works fine for regular recording mode. Being .42 amps at 12v. But when it goes in to parking mode it just lowers the reading till it seems to after park mode starts just seems to shut off. I guess I do not know the right technique to use.

Some multimeters only display two digits after the decimal point and others will display three decimal points. For my tests, I place a Fluke 117 multimeter inline of the positive power [before it's split into the constant and ACC power] to measure the amp draw. The other Fluke 117 is measuring the voltage level at the point where the dash camera's hardwire cable obtains its power. I do that so my conversion to Watts is as accurate as possible. If the voltage level is not 12.6V on the Fluke meter, I will tweak the DC power supply's output voltage to make sure the voltage at the hardwire cable connection is at 12.6V for that test run.

The milliamp draw in this picture is for a non-VIOFO dash camera in its low power/power saving parking mode.

 

[Forester25]

While I do have some shop tools, a fluke multi-meter is not one of them. So my best move is to apologize for doubting the posted results. Will take this adventure as finished. Smarter people with better equipment have already walked the block. Thanks for your help in explaining. At least in Low Power Impact Mode it really kicks down in power.

 

[Chuck McCoy]

tools

This meter is accurate to within 1mA of my Fluke 115 & Fluke 117.
It’s a no brainer for only $21.
It’s a knock off Fluke 17B+
I can’t remember why I returned it.
I think it had an auto power off feature that could not be disabled like the fluke.

Thsinde 18B+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B06ZZG2F2N
If you want a non-contact DC Amp Clamp this is my favorite non-Fluke.
It’s accurate within 1mA of my Fluke 115 & Fluke 117
UNI-T UT210E Pro ($60).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00O1Q2HOQ