VIOFO T130 Review

rcg530

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BlackVue, Thinkware, VIOFO, Vantrue, Blueskysea, FineVu
VIOFO reached out to me several months ago about possibly reviewing the T130 3-channel camera. I was going to get one to review, but it kept getting delayed. It now appears my T130 review unit is going to be one of the first production units. VIOFO has notified me that it has shipped last week.

Looking at the VIOFO website for the contents of the T130 package:

Front Camera
Rear Camera
Car Charger USB Cable
Rear Camera Cable
Car Charger Adapter
Trim Removal Tool
Card Reader Adapter
3M Sticker for Front Camera
3M Sticker for Rear Camera
Static (Windshield) Stickers
Warranty Card

There is no hardwiring kit included nor a CPL filter.

I ordered the CPL filter and the hardwiring kit from the VIOFO website last night. I want to test parking mode, so that's why I ordered the HK4 hardwiring kit.

On the T130 product page it lists the hardwiring kit as a HK4 (not the HK3-C). From the pictures of the HK3-C and the HK4 the only visible difference is the HK3-C has a straight Type-C connector end and the HK4 has a 90 degree Type-C connector end. I don't know if there are any other internal differences, but I ordered the HK4 to be sure I have what is listed as the compatible hardwiring kit for the T130.

Here's a link to the VIOFO site for the HK4 hardwiring kit:

Type-C HK4 Hardwire Kit Cable for T130 Dash Camera

Review video released on 30-Dec-2021

 
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Looking forward to see wqhat the production units are like, and thanks for sharing about the HK4. The HK3-C does work with this cam so I'm guessing the main difference is the plug. USB-C is a much better way for dashcams IMHO and we're seeing more of it :)

Phil
 
From the pictures of the HK3-C and the HK4 the only visible difference is the HK3-C has a straight Type-C connector end and the HK4 has a 90 degree Type-C connector end.
The A139 USB-C socket is on the top of the camera, so the straight connector is best, to avoid a clash with the remote camera cables.

The T130 USB-C socket is on the side of the mount, so the right angle connector is better than the straight one.
 
I checked on the shipping status of the VIOFO T130 that VIOFO sent to me to review. It's at LAX, so hopefully I'll get it in the next week.
 
The VIOFO T130 3-channel dash camera arrived today. Thank you VIOFO for sending this to me to review. To fully test this dashcam, I ordered an A139/T130 front camera CPL filter and so I can test its parking mode I ordered the Type-C HK4 hardwiring kit. Here's a few pics from my unboxing of the VIOFO T130 3-channel camera. The CPL filter and Type-C HK4 hardwiring kit should arrive within the next week.

t130_box_front_1080x1080.jpgt130_box_side_features.jpgt130_unboxed_all_items.jpg
 
I tried a few things today with the T130 while I'm waiting for the CPL filter and Type-C HK4 hardwiring adapter to show up.

Wi-Fi

2.4Ghz vs 5GZ


The product details section for the T130 on the VIOFO website shows "Built-in 2.4GHz WiFi". The T130 user manual shows a "System Setting" named "Wi-Fi Channel" setting with values of "Off / 2.4GHz / 5GHZ". When I use the VIOFO app there is no such "System Setting" named "Wi-Fi Channel". When I scan the Wi-Fi channels while the Wi-Fi is enabled I only see a 2.4GHz Wi-Fi signal from the T130.

Either the "Wi-Fi Channel" system setting in the user manual is a mistake or it will be implemented in a future release of firmware. Not sure which is true at this point.

Android Wi-Fi Client vs iOS Wi-Fi Client

When I used an Android 10 tablet to connect to the T130, it would connect but it would get disconnected very quickly when in the settings page and display and error about not being able to access the T130.

When I used an iOS 14.8.1 phone to connect to the T130, it would stay connected while using the VIOFO app.

Not sure if this is a T130 issue, Android 10 issue or my tablet (Tripltek 8 Pro).

It's Getting Hot In Here...

The T130 generates A LOT of heat just by itself. In my office/filming studio the ambient temp was 78 F during my test run of the T130. I made sure the top/bottom ventilation holes were not blocked.

Top of T130 (between vent holes and front camera): Average temp 130 F (max observed 140 F) - That's HOT!
Just above interior camera: Average 119 F (max 121.5 F)
Rear Camera: Avg / Max 101 F

My concern is that the 130 F to 140 F (before being exposed to any sunlight) might be an issue in hotter climates. The second concern is that when the T130 is installed in a left hand drive vehicle to allow the interior camera to move to the left to record video of the driver side door, the microSD card slot is positioned on the top of the T130 main body just next to the ventilation holes and area that gets super hot. I would hope the microSD card slot would be moved to the end of the T130 to reduce its heat exposure and to make it more accessible to the user to install/remove the microSD card.

Power Consumption (so far...)

Being a three channel camera, you have to expect the T130 to consume more power than any 1-channel or 2-channel camera. It does!

Normal recording mode with all three channels being recorded (Wi-Fi off) it consumes 470 mA to 505 mA based on my power supply monitor.

With Wi-Fi turned on it bumps the numbers up by 20 mA or so.

If you're wanting to use the T130 for extended parking mode recordings, you'll need a higher capacity dashcam battery pack. Using the Type-C HK4 Hardwiring Kit to supply power with its low voltage cutoff feature, will likely result in somewhat short parking mode recording times when compared to 2-channel/1-channel dashcams. I'll be able to get the parking mode power consumption values for all three parking mode types (auto event detection / time-lapse / low bitrate) after I receive the Type-C HK4 Hardwiring Kit.

Firmware Version (Production Unit):

The versions of firmware I found in this production unit were:

Main Unit: VIOFO_T130_V1.0_1027
Rear Ver: V1.0_0825

On the VIOFO website, there is a firmware file with a date of 20211027. That firmware file is the same version as the one that arrived in the unit. I went through the firmware upgrade steps and it showed the same version string for the main T130 unit after the upgrade as it did before the upgrade.

What's Next...

I'm waiting on the CPL and Type-C HK4 Hardwiring Kit to get delivered. I'll test the hardwiring kit (low voltage cutoff and parking modes) in some bench tests before I find a way to install the T130 in my car (need to decide which dashcam(s) are coming out to allow for the T130 installation).
 
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Yesterday, the shipment arrived with the A139/T130 CPL filter and Type-C HK4 hardwiring kit.

t130_hk4_cpl.jpg

Type-C HK4 Hardwiring Kit

The unit I received did not have any labeling on the outside of the soft packaging that it was a HK4. When you remove it from the packaging, it looks almost identical to the Type-C HK3 kit, but the Type-C connector on the end is a 90 degree connector vs the straight connector of the HK3 kit.

The label on the unit still states HK3 not HK4.

There's not one standard for wire colors when it comes to the accessory power and battery power wires.

The HK4 uses a yellow wire for "ACC" (switched) power, a red wire for "Battery" (constant) and black for ground.

If you're wiring a dashcam to a dashcam battery pack, make sure you verify which color is associated with accessory (switched) power and battery (constant) power before wiring the adapter to the wiring harness for the battery pack. My recent review of the BlackboxMyCar PowerCell 8 showed it uses red for accessory (switched) power and yellow for battery (constant) power in its output power cable.

The same attention to detail is necessary when connecting the dashcam wiring adapter to fuse taps in your vehicle's fuse box.

t130_hk4_main_unit.jpgt130_hk4_typec_connector.jpgt130_hk4_wire_colors.jpg

CPL Filter

I have not used the CPL filter yet. I will get the CPL installed when the T130 is installed in my vehicle.
 
The unit I received did not have any labeling on the outside of the soft packaging that it was a HK4. When you remove it from the packaging, it looks almost identical to the Type-C HK3 kit, but the Type-C connector on the end is a 90 degree connector vs the straight connector of the HK3 kit.

The label on the unit still states HK3 not HK4.
I assume the only difference between HK3-C and HK4 is the right angle connector, and the new name was just to avoid people ordering the wrong one, even though both will work, assuming you don't mind the cable going off in the wrong direction, or actually want it to!
 
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Put a CPL on my T130 and it helped my moderate dash reflections considerably, as well as reducing glare from certain outside-the-car reflections. It darkened the vids very slightly but I didn't see any need to adjust the exposure to compensate. My cam and CPL are pre-production or early production, and the CPL doesn't fit tightly when handled, but stays put in rough driving use. Put a tiny dab of glue on outside of mine but not a big problem as there are many easy fixes, and new production may be better.

Liking the HK3-C and HK4 choices which will make fitment much better for a lot of folks. And hope the USB-C connector becomes the new "standard" with dashcams; it's reversible so no more "left-hand or right-hand?" questions for angled plugs, and it seems more robust than USB mini or USB micro.

Phil
 
T130 Power Consumption

I used my TACKLife MDC01 power supply to provide and monitor the milliamp draw of the T130 3-channel when powered by the 12-volt power port adapter and when powered by the HK4 hardwiring kit.

The T130 3-channel configuration consumes between 465 mA to 506 mA when in 3-channel normal recording mode with the front camera configured for 2K QHD video resolution.

Parking mode still consumes a large amount of power.

Auto Event Detection (AED) consumes between 408 mA to 419 mA (no motion detected). AED consumes 474 mA to 493 mA while recording the event (very similar to normal recording mode power consumption).

Time-Lapse Recording (TLR) consumes between 390 mA to 411 mA when configured for 1 fps and between 410 mA and 450 mA when configured for 10 fps.

Low Bitrate Recording (LBR) consumes between 474 mA to 506 mA which is very similar to normal recording mode.

Turning on Wi-Fi consumes an additional 20 to 25 mA on top of the pre-existing power consumption.

Using the T130's power button to turn off the T130, but still have the power port adapter providing power to it, it would initially consume 15 mA and over a 2 minute period it would ramp down to 6 mA.

The same power down test of the T130 when the HK4 was providing power to the T130 (accessory power on / ignition switch on) would have an initial power draw at 18 mA. Over the next two minutes, the power draw would ramp down to 12 mA. I then turned off the accessory power (ignition switch off) with the T130 already powered down and the power draw would drop to 10 mA.

If you intend to use the T130's power on/off button to turn off the T130 when parked at home, the T130 / HK4 combination will still draw around 10 mA. That additional 10 mA draw on top of whatever else is drawing power in your vehicle, may more quickly deplete your vehicle's battery (if using fuse taps to obtain the power from a fuse box). You may want to consider using a battery charger for your vehicle if you plan to drive your vehicle infrequently.

t130_power_draw_tests.jpg

If you're planning on using any 3-channel camera for parking mode recordings, you need to account for the fact that the T130 power draw in parking mode will likely drain the car's battery somewhat quickly and thus you'll have shorter parking mode recording times. If you don't drive your vehicle long enough to fully charge your vehicle's battery, the amount of time you can expect to power any of the three parking recording modes will be shorter than any 1-channel or 2-channel dashcam.

A dashcam battery pack could be a reasonable option for any 3-channel dashcam to try and get the longest parking mode recording times. That again is based on the premise that you drive the vehicle long enough to fully charge the dashcam battery pack(s).

HK4 Power Cutoff Voltage Testing

I tested the HK4's low voltage cutoff feature to see how accurate it is with regard to the selected low voltage cutoff slide switch selection.

I found the HK4 to cutoff the power to the T130 when the vehicle supplied voltage level dropped to 0.02 volts above the selected slide switch value. When I dropped the voltage level provided by my power supply, it took between 80 and 85 seconds at that voltage level before the HK4 would cutoff the power to the camera.

When I initially powered up the HK4 (without it being connected to the T130), I found the HK4 would draw about 4 mA by itself. When I would turn on the accessory power (ignition switch on), it would jump up to 8 mA (without being connected to the T130).

hk4_low_voltage_cutoff_tests.jpg
 
Thanks for the precise measurements (y) and the 'power off' figures too; those were higher than I expected.

Phil
 
Thanks for the precise measurements (y) and the 'power off' figures too; those were higher than I expected.

Phil
I think, like with the A129, the GPS does not power off because it is wired in the same way as the A129!
 
If you intend to use the T130's power on/off button to turn off the T130 when parked at home, the T130 / HK4 combination will still draw around 10 mA. That additional 10 mA draw on top of whatever else is drawing power in your vehicle, may more quickly deplete your vehicle's battery (if using fuse taps to obtain the power from a fuse box). You may want to consider using a battery charger for your vehicle if you plan to drive your vehicle infrequently.
Does the HK4 continue to draw 10mA even if the low voltage cutoff has activated? I'm wondering if hardwired cameras are the cause of my car battery running very low even if it's just sitting on the driveway for a week or two.
 
Thanks for the precise measurements (y) and the 'power off' figures too; those were higher than I expected.

Phil

Are these values at 5V or 12V? From what I remember, the A119S used to consume as much power. So for a 3 channel, half an amp isn't high. Or am I missing something?
 
Does the HK4 continue to draw 10mA even if the low voltage cutoff has activated? I'm wondering if hardwired cameras are the cause of my car battery running very low even if it's just sitting on the driveway for a week or two.
I will review my footage to see if I captured the mA draw after voltage cutoff by the HK4. If I don't have it already, I'll run that test today.

Are these values at 5V or 12V? From what I remember, the A119S used to consume as much power. So for a 3 channel, half an amp isn't high. Or am I missing something?
I'm measuring the load being placed on the vehicle's electrical system where the dashcam is being used.

My chart's milliamp values are at 12.6 volts. I'm using a TACKlife MDC01 power supply which provides the power to the T130 power port adapter or the HK4 (depending on the test setup) and it has an amp meter on the front of the MDC01 showing the amp draw down to the milliamp (three decimal places). I also have a TACKlife MDC02 (max 10 amps) power supply but the amp values displayed only have two decimal places. I've used the MDC02 in my previous dashcam reviews, but I recently purchased the MDC01 to get the amp values with three decimal places.

This is my first 3-channel dashcam that I've been asked to review. All of the previous 1-channel and 2-channel dashcams have had amp draw values in the 350 mA to 450 mA range. The main amp draw of interest is the parking mode amp draw since that will best determine how long the dashcam will last in parking mode.

The T130 3-channel is the first dashcam that I've reviewed that pushes the max amp draw over 500 to 550 mA during normal recording mode with Wi-Fi on. Low bitrate recording (LBR) option for parking mode draws up to 490 mA. Auto event detection (AED) parking mode also consumed a somewhat high 408 mA to 419 mA and when it detects motion it consumes 474 mA to 493 mA while its recording.

When I was reviewing a BlackVue DR900X 2-channel dashcam along with the BlackVue CM100LTE connectivity module, the power consumption of that configuration while in time-lapse parking mode was in the 400 to 450 mA range with an average draw of 410 mA and that was powering the 2 dashcams and the connectivity module.

I'd have to locate my older VIOFO A119 series dashcams and run a series of tests on them to see of they consume similar amounts of power, but I don't currently have the time in my schedule to do that.
 
Does the HK4 continue to draw 10mA even if the low voltage cutoff has activated? I'm wondering if hardwired cameras are the cause of my car battery running very low even if it's just sitting on the driveway for a week or two.
When I tested the low voltage cut off, it drew 0mA when cut off. The HWK cuts the power, so the camera can’t use any.

Cars typically empty their batteries in around 4 weeks, if they are starting off full, so if you start with it half empty then 2 weeks is expected…
 
During my testing today, the T130 started to randomly stop recording and begin beeping and then start recording again and then stop and then beep. I've been using a VIOFO 128GB high speed MLC microSD U3 memory card and then I tried another card (SanDisk Extreme Pro 256GB V30 U3 A2 card) and the problem continued.

It appears the T130 unit that I have has a problem writing to any microSD card.

I'm reporting this to VIOFO now. :mad:
 
Are you using the supplied usb cable and power supply or the hard wire kit? Or some cable you already had wired from before?
 
Are you using the supplied usb cable and power supply or the hard wire kit? Or some cable you already had wired from before?
I'm using the power port adapter (car charger adapter - as it's called in the user manual) supplied with the T130 and the VIOFO Type-C HK4 hardwiring kit in my testing. I mentioned that in my power consumption test results post earlier in the this thread.
 
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