Such horizontal bars appear in two situations:
1. when the power source is poor (for sure not your case)
2. only indoor in some low lights conditions with some light sources. Outdoor I never meet this, no matter how low was the light. But I meet indoor.
Right on MTZ,
Yes, you are 100% correct.
I believe power starvation is the Number #1 leading cause of all dash cam malfunctions due to “user error” by using an “incorrect” power supply, or an “incorrect” USB power cable. I think the average consumer does not use the Official Viofo included power supply, and USB power cable, and they just use whatever is already installed in their car. Or they buy a 20ft long USB cable that is too thin gauge wire, (AWG). Or power the camera off a factory vehicle USB output that only has a max of 1 Amp output. Or they try to use an OBD2 adapter to try to enable parking mode without hardwiring. Or that mirror dongle thing that draws power from the “electronic” rear view mirror. Or, even if they buy the Official Viofo hardwire kit, both positive switched, and constant wires (yellow & red) might be installed on fused circuits that have power fluctuations to due vehicle operational needs. Even the ground wire connection on the hardwire kit can introduce power fluctuations depending on where it’s grounded.
So yes, I take proper power delivery to the cameras seriously when testing because I do not want to introduce malfunctions due to my own user error.
I’ve actually been planning to go further into this subject in a future post in this thread, and the A139 Pro thread because I’ve discovered something interesting about all the different Viofo power supplies, (USB Charger / Hardwire Kits) but I’m waiting on an Amazon Saturday delivery for some equipment I need to complete my testing for the post.
And yes my indoor lights are not ideal testing conditions. They are very low quality. But as long as I compare the WM1, and A119 Mini under the same “low quality” conditions it should be a fair comparison. I do these lazy experiments in my garage because its easier to control the conditions to eek out the differences of the two cameras than burning gasoline in my car gathering test drive footage, (I save that for last).
Oh yeah, I think the #2 leading cause of dash cam malfunctions is “incorrect” SD Card. And #3 is “incorrect” camera settings.
At least in such home tests is better to use Viofo vs other dashcam or Viofo vs Viofo vs other dashcam. The best is if the other dashcam has almost the same properties, the most important is the resolution and, then, if possible the same CMOS.
For some models is possible the lens to be the same and if the CMPOS is also the same then the differences are not evident.
If I would compare two Viofo dashcams I will try Starvis vs. Starvis 2. Or 4K big CMOS vs 4K small CMOS. Or even 2K vs 4K. In this way people can decide if they want an upgraded model.
Yes, I understand. The only reason I chose to compare the A119 Mini with the WM1 is because of the price, ($120 vs. $100). I emailed Garmin, and asked for a test sample of the Garmin Mini 2 ($130) to compare with the WM1 , but I never got a response. Maybe when I get more YouTube Subscribers. lol
-Chuck