Viofo WM1 Test & Review PP

When a camera uses frame-doubling at 60fps, it can record a 1/30s exposure then repeat each frame twice, so the output file remains at 60fps. You will only notice this if you have movement in your video. When you skip forward a frame at a time, you will see that every other frame is identical.
Right on Tony,
Thanks for the explanation.
Unfortunately at the moment skipping forward one frame at a time is beyond my technical ability, (I don't own a Windows PC, or Mac computer).
I'm limited by what my $100 Chromebook can do. lol
-Chuck
 
Also the Date & Time of the WM1 seems to be pushed to far to the right. Maybe that should be moved over to the left just a bit because some video players, or video editing software might chop off the seconds in the Time Stamp.

One thing I like about the WM1 it has adopted the triple zero “000MPH” for speed like the A229 & A139 Pro instead of the single zero “0MPH” of the A119 Mini.
Every new product start with same things. Looks like programmers forgot everything and starts from clean SDK for any new dashcam project, wasting time on same bugs fixing. :( It's sad.
 
When a camera uses frame-doubling at 60fps, it can record a 1/30s exposure then repeat each frame twice, so the output file remains at 60fps. You will only notice this if you have movement in your video. When you skip forward a frame at a time, you will see that every other frame is identical.
Do you know any Viofo dashcam model which is duplicating each second frame when recording at 60FPS?

The A119 Mini also produces what looks like rolling horizontal “shadow bars” that rise upward when the flashlight is on the LOW brightness setting.
Such horizontal bars appear in two situations:
1. when the power source is poor (for sure not your case)
2. only indoor in some low lights conditions with some light sources. Outdoor I never meet this, no matter how low was the light. But I meet indoor.

At least in such home tests is better to use Viofo vs other dashcam or Viofo vs Viofo vs other dashcam. The best is if the other dashcam has almost the same properties, the most important is the resolution and, then, if possible the same CMOS.
For some models is possible the lens to be the same and if the CMPOS is also the same then the differences are not evident.
If I would compare two Viofo dashcams I will try Starvis vs. Starvis 2. Or 4K big CMOS vs 4K small CMOS. Or even 2K vs 4K. In this way people can decide if they want an upgraded model.

As I saw on the Viofo website, the actual offer for WM1 is very good because of the free 64GB card. If you will substitute de card price, the actual dashcam price is $70 which means a very good deal for a quality dashcam like Viofo.
 
Do you know any Viofo dashcam model which is duplicating each second frame when recording at 60FPS?
From memory, I think I tried 1440p60 on the A129 Pro and A139 Pro, and 1080p60 on the A139. Maybe my memory is not so good though.
 
Such horizontal bars appear in two situations:
1. when the power source is poor (for sure not your case)
2. only indoor in some low lights conditions with some light sources. Outdoor I never meet this, no matter how low was the light. But I meet indoor.
Right on MTZ,
Yes, you are 100% correct.
I believe power starvation is the Number #1 leading cause of all dash cam malfunctions due to “user error” by using an “incorrect” power supply, or an “incorrect” USB power cable. I think the average consumer does not use the Official Viofo included power supply, and USB power cable, and they just use whatever is already installed in their car. Or they buy a 20ft long USB cable that is too thin gauge wire, (AWG). Or power the camera off a factory vehicle USB output that only has a max of 1 Amp output. Or they try to use an OBD2 adapter to try to enable parking mode without hardwiring. Or that mirror dongle thing that draws power from the “electronic” rear view mirror. Or, even if they buy the Official Viofo hardwire kit, both positive switched, and constant wires (yellow & red) might be installed on fused circuits that have power fluctuations to due vehicle operational needs. Even the ground wire connection on the hardwire kit can introduce power fluctuations depending on where it’s grounded.

So yes, I take proper power delivery to the cameras seriously when testing because I do not want to introduce malfunctions due to my own user error.
I’ve actually been planning to go further into this subject in a future post in this thread, and the A139 Pro thread because I’ve discovered something interesting about all the different Viofo power supplies, (USB Charger / Hardwire Kits) but I’m waiting on an Amazon Saturday delivery for some equipment I need to complete my testing for the post.

And yes my indoor lights are not ideal testing conditions. They are very low quality. But as long as I compare the WM1, and A119 Mini under the same “low quality” conditions it should be a fair comparison. I do these lazy experiments in my garage because its easier to control the conditions to eek out the differences of the two cameras than burning gasoline in my car gathering test drive footage, (I save that for last).

Oh yeah, I think the #2 leading cause of dash cam malfunctions is “incorrect” SD Card. And #3 is “incorrect” camera settings.

At least in such home tests is better to use Viofo vs other dashcam or Viofo vs Viofo vs other dashcam. The best is if the other dashcam has almost the same properties, the most important is the resolution and, then, if possible the same CMOS.
For some models is possible the lens to be the same and if the CMPOS is also the same then the differences are not evident.
If I would compare two Viofo dashcams I will try Starvis vs. Starvis 2. Or 4K big CMOS vs 4K small CMOS. Or even 2K vs 4K. In this way people can decide if they want an upgraded model.
Yes, I understand. The only reason I chose to compare the A119 Mini with the WM1 is because of the price, ($120 vs. $100). I emailed Garmin, and asked for a test sample of the Garmin Mini 2 ($130) to compare with the WM1 , but I never got a response. Maybe when I get more YouTube Subscribers. lol
-Chuck
 
Every new product start with same things. Looks like programmers forgot everything and starts from clean SDK for any new dashcam project, wasting time on same bugs fixing. :( It's sad.
Right on Dex,
I can't tell you how right you are. lol
I've been whining, and complaing about my pet peeves with Viofo text overlays since the release of the A129 Pro, (October 2019).
Every model has a different text overlay with pros & cons.
I wish they could make just one single template, and apply it to all future models.
Oh wait, that will never work. lol
-Chuck
 
From memory, I think I tried 1440p60 on the A129 Pro and A139 Pro, and 1080p60 on the A139. Maybe my memory is not so good though.
My memory is telling me your memory is good. lol
I remember reading in your A139 Pro testing thread that you tried 1440p60 and you found that it wasn't actually 60fps.
It was just duplicating frames.
 
In this post I would like to compare the WM1 WDR On vs. A119M HDR On, (both cameras 2K30fps).
The primary light source is the same flashlight as before hanging from the ceiling on HIGH.
The secondary light source is a Maglite ML300L flashlight on HIGH.
In order to get a tight beam pattern on the Maglite I made a “telescopic shroud” out of cardboard.
WM1 - WDR On .png
A119 Mini - HDR On .png
Great Scott!!!
The HDR on the A119 Mini actually works.
The WDR on the WM1 is less effective.

Here’s the test footage in real time;
 

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Large cards.

They can just send me a camera, i have 10 - 12 different 256 GB memory cards

It do have a downside for me though, as i dont drive that much it take me 3-4 weeks to fill a card, so running my entire test suite thru a camera take a year.
Of course i could do a more intensive static testing, and i also some times do in the end, but i like to do at least 4-5 months of in car testing before that.

As i recall there are 256 GB cards in all 3 cameras in the car, but two of them for sure.
IMG_20230301_191018.jpg

Mind you the WD purple here, no longer in sale, replaced by the slower QD101 branded card, but all my other cards are contemporary / selling cards and so relevant.

PPS: The XLR8 branded card, that is a moniker PNY slap on all of their RAM / memory cards / solid state storage ASO
 
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In order to get a tight beam pattern on the Maglite I made a “telescopic shroud” out of cardboard.

You might be interested to know that the DIY “telescopic shroud” you built has a formal name. It's called a "snoot" and they're found in most professional photographic studios. :)

 
Great Scott!!!
The HDR on the A119 Mini actually works.
The WDR on the WM1 is less effective.
The A119 Mini preserved highlight detail, but shadow areas were much darker than the WM1.

It will be interesting to see how they compare out on the road, day & night
 
@Panzer Platform how stiff is the mount on the WM1? Do you think it is suitable for mounting the camera on a rear tailgate window that is opened and closed frequently?
 
It will be interesting to see how they compare out on the road, day & night
I've been chompin' at the bit to get some driving footage but the weather has not been cooperative.
It's been raining on/off for the last week, which never happens here. lol
 

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@Panzer Platform how stiff is the mount on the WM1? Do you think it is suitable for mounting the camera on a rear tailgate window that is opened and closed frequently?
That is an excellent question.
One that I planned to address in my review.
I wish it was stiffer.
I reviewed a DDPAI Mini 5 last year that had the same type of mount / hinge and it was very, very stiff.
DDPAI Mini 5 .jpg
 
how stiff is the mount on the WM1? Do you think it is suitable for mounting the camera on a rear tailgate window that is opened and closed frequently?
My tailgate opens and closes with the help of a motor, and if you install WM1 on the glass of the back door of my car,
adjust it once and do not touch it again, then the rigidity of the WM1 mount will be enough and the lens settings will not go astray.
But I see in parking lots near supermarkets how people close the tailgate, then there the rigidity of the WM1 mount will not be enough
and the lens settings will go astray.
 
To H.265 or not to H.265, that is the question.
I just discovered the WM1 is capable of recording in H.265 Codec by long pressing the MIC button.
I tried to enable H.265 on the A119 Mini by long pressing the MIC button, and it’s not available.
It looks like H.265 can record 15% more data than the default H.264 Codec.
200 MB = 1 Minute H.264
168.9 MB = 1 Minute H.265
WM1 - H.264 vs. H.265 .png
 
To H.265 or not to H.265, that is the question.

As I've mentioned many times before on these pages I do not recommend the use of H.265. The reason is that even after all this time has passed since its release, H.265 has still not become the ubiquitous, widely available compression format that H.264 is.

For most people this is not much of a concern but for dash cam users it important because it is vital that anyone you may need to hand off a video to will be able to easily view your video without any problems. Unfortunately, there are still many insurance companies, law enforcement agencies, courts of law, attorney's offices, prosecutors offices and other bureaucracies that are running older computers, software and operating systems that will not play H.265 video. All you need is one key person within the chain of custody of your video in a legal or insurance matter who can't view your footage and your case or claim could be compromised or dead in the water. In all likelihood, the person or persons who can't get your video to play will not even know what the term "H.265" even means, much less what to do to get the video to play on whatever software they may be using. They will probably just move on the their next case during a busy day rather that waste a lot of time trying to troubleshoot your unwatchable video.

With dash cam video, where, depending on the circumstances, you may be compelled to provide an original, unedited copy of your footage it is imperative that you make sure to submit videos that are as easy and idiot proof for anyone to open. Therefore, the extra footage you can shoehorn onto a memory card with H.265 is not worth the risk until such time as it becomes the universal compression scheme that H.264 is. That's the reason H.265 is still a hidden feature on dash cams. ;)
 
I think a hinged dashcam are fine, IF ! the camera are not hanging too low below that hinge and so gain leverage.

The traditional Wedge cameras, you could argue the front camera are hinged too, just its a lighter unit and the weight are closer to the hinge point, and i think if anything the weight are in front of the hinge point VS below it that could make it swing up in a event.
 
If one really wanted or needed to mount the WM1 in a location where it would be subjected to shocks or vibrations such as a rear hatchback window that would cause the hinge to shift, I think it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate a wedge or some other DIY measure that would securely hold the camera in place for the correct aim.
 
As I've mentioned many times before on these pages I do not recommend the use of H.265. The reason is that even after all this time has passed since its release, H.265 has still not become the ubiquitous, widely available compression format that H.264 is.
Right on Mellow,
You are preaching to the choir brother. lol
Right now in 2023 I’m “Anti H.265” for all the reasons you listed.
Maybe in 2043 the dash cam world will be ready for H.265. Lol

However, I’ve read on this forum in a few different threads that some folks absolutely love H.265 to death, and think it’s the best thing since sliced bread.
The reason I brought it up is because if I didn’t, I don’t think I would be fulfilling my duty as a “dash cam tester”. And I’m almost positive someone will ask me if the WM1 supports H.265 down the road. Lol
-Chuck
 
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