W205 C63S - PMP troubleshooting

You are correct, and assumed correctly, Luckily, I have an notification cloud BlackVue to notify me when the camera goes offline, tomorrow I will be sure to test the voltage when it goes offline immediately,
Again, appreciate your help on this matter. Thank you

Will report back !
 
And check the battery voltage soon after parking. And presumably you have had a longish run to charge it fully?
I keep on getting confused with this time difference bit with your tomorrow being my today (or is it the other way round?)
I presume that you are in the early hours of tomorrow right now whilst I am in the middle of the afternoon (14:40 GMT) of today (or your yesterday). Simples.
 
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I am back, how this for dedication in getting this fixed :D By now, I understand the PMP switches itself off at around the 2 hour mark, So I setup a Camera (bit dark sorry) and watch it all unfold - THe PMP Is set to 12V and 12 Hours.

here are some notes

- Before starting the car (Overnight), the Battery was sitting around 12.35V -
- Starting the car, it ignited up to 14.5V
- During Idle, I heard the car do a few mechnical movements in the car - which bough it down to 12.14V but sprung back up to 12.35 shortly after in a few seconds
- Attached is a video of the whole incident unfold and as I watched it over again, the battery did not go near 12.0 V and the PMP Shut it self as predicted within the 2 hour frame Battery did fall down to 12.18V but not anywhere near 12.0 - Shortly after, goes back up to 12.30+

20 Second Mark - Green little bulb is the PMP - Sorry its upside down,

 
I can record it happening when checking the PMP, however when I check the voltage when the PMP is off. It still at 12.40

But yes it is a good point whether to check in it at the PMP when it goes off. I can do that tomorrow
 
You seem to be all in to find the problem.. perhaps buy another PMP.. Keep the packaging..test with it and return it if the results are the same.
 
Hi, I am back and finally got a new PMP order in... and.... sadly... It has happened again. after 2 hours, it shut off again. checked the volts and all the above - seems to be running perfectly fine, I am even not sure what to do next now....
Any advise moving forward from here?
 
As a temporary check.. perhaps, run the power supply directly from the battery. A lot of symptoms point to the source you are tied into turning off. And turn off all voltage and time switches.. just to narrow things down.
 
When you say running directly from the battery, do you mean.... without the PMP? How would i do that? sorry perhaps I am misunderstanding what you mean :)
 
I think Ralph possibly means to connect the yellow batt lead directly to the battery so as to eliminate the possibility of the car's electronics turning off your present 'permanent' 12V supply.
 
M8TJT said:
I think Ralph possibly means to connect the yellow batt lead directly to the battery so as to eliminate the possibility of the car's electronics turning off your present 'permanent' 12V supply.
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yep, common issue in German cars, the circuits are controlled by the ECU so the computer will turn them off, even if the battery technically has plenty of power, if the computer detects a parasitic drain that doesn't belong it will cut power
 
Ok thank you - oh wow... i didn't know that was possible - I will do that now and lets say that works, Could I just leave it there... forever?

Thanks
 
steves2k said:
Ok thank you - oh wow... i didn't know that was possible - I will do that now and lets say that works, Could I just leave it there... forever?

Thanks
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yes, make sure you add a fuse on the B+ wire as close to the battery as practical, remember the fuse is there to protect the vehicle, not the device
 
jokiin said:
yes, make sure you add a fuse on the B+ wire as close to the battery as practical, remember the fuse is there to protect the vehicle, not the device
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OK Newbie question time - When you mean B+ Wire, I assuming you mean, the BATT+ wire (Yellow in Power Magic Pro world) ?

Im not even sure how can connect directly to the battery right now, Is there something I could use to connect it straight to the battery? I was thinking of just getting the yellow cable and find a place to just wire it on top of battery (+)

Sorry for the silly question
 
yes B+ meaning the permanent power wire, the ACC wire is generally ok on most cars and won't cause computer issues
 
jokiin said:
yes B+ meaning the permanent power wire, the ACC wire is generally ok on most cars and won't cause computer issues
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So how can I wire straight to the battery with the fuse Tape on the B+ ( I might have missed something ) ? is there something special i need purchase?
 
you need a fuse holder and suitable terminal if going direct to battery, won't be using a fuse tap
 
Something like that, you might pay a bit more but maybe better to go to Supercheap, Autobarn etc and pick one up, at least you'll be able to look at it first and make sure it's suitable
 
jokiin said:
yes, make sure you add a fuse on the B+ wire as close to the battery as practical, remember the fuse is there to protect the vehicle, not the device
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Thanks for this, I will visit it tomorrow or sunday at best - just for knowledge sake, why does the wire need to be as close to the battery, just curious :)
 
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