Zenfox T3 Triple channel dash cams free test invitation, limited quantity

Yes just to demo that they can solder the heat spreader on those like i suggest Zenfox do with the heat sink and EMI shield instead of glue.
Or they can use a regular thermal paste between CPU die and heat spreader, as i recall thermal paste CPU's are rumored to perform better thermal than soldered ones. though no one have compared the 2 types of interface head 2 head as no CPU come with both kind of assembly.

I have also been wondering why no one make a water cooling head that would go on a de-lidded CPU and then cool directly on the CPU dies and not have any copper in between like a conventional H2O cooler.
Had that idea ever since my first Athlon CPU which back then dident have a heat spreader.

Of course you would have to waterproof components around the CPU die / dies, but the dies them self i think are sealed around the edge so water in this case cant get in under the die.
This i think they already do when cooling with liquid gasses for maximum overclock, though they do still use a copper "head" for the liquid gas itself, the CPU and even much of the motherboard prep are more for condensation problems.
 
kamkar1 said:
I have also been wondering why no one make a water cooling head that would go on a de-lidded CPU and then cool directly on the CPU dies and not have any copper in between like a conventional H2O cooler.
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I assume it is because water has a very poor thermal conductivity, the copper provides far more heat transfer surface, plus a heat buffer to absorb spikes in heat output and reduce rapid thermal expansion due to spikes that would cause stress.
 
Well just came home from my drive, and my mods have done little if nothing for my problems running with 3 cameras.
BUT ! i am of course still on a memory card that is not A branded, sadly this will not change before some time next week.
 
kamkar1 said:
Well just came home from my drive, and my mods have done little if nothing for my problems running with 3 cameras.
BUT ! i am of course still on a memory card that is not A branded, sadly this will not change before some time next week.
Click to expand...
The important question is: Did it overheat? If not then you have a success 😀
 
I was just feeling up the housing and it dident feel warmer or colder than before, i did 3 drive sessions, and one of them was actually pretty long before the T2 started to beep.
But i have not yet looked over the footage to see if cameras was shutting down or what.
But if it was heat i would assume that when the T3 stop, and i just press REC, then that session should be even shorter as the cam was already very warm, but thats not the case.
 
kamkar1 said:
I have soldered the heat sink to the EMI shield, which was not easy as a thick big thing like the heat sink you really need a more beefy soldering iron than mine ( soldered at the edges, there are of course still thermal compound in between the 2.
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How many watts is your soldering iron?

(I was wondering what is needed to solder a heatsink, I was thinking a blowtorch and brazing stick would be more appropriate, but then the thermal compound might not survive!)
 
Nigel said:
How many watts is your soldering iron? (I was wondering what is needed to solder a heatsink, I was thinking a blowtorch and brazing stick would be more appropriate, but then the thermal compound might not survive!)
Click to expand...

I'm going to wait until Tuesday, assuming my yet shipped Amazon order, arrives then. I want to see the size of the 20x20x.8mm copper shims. One thought I had, but it'll be difficult to do, is take a utility knife and try to cut out a hole the size of the SOC in the EMi shield. And either use those thermal pads I found to mount heatsink and plate to SOC....Or if the Copper plates aren't intrusive and touch other electronics, solder copper it to the EMI shield. And heatsink to EMI shield.

Really had to know what approach is needed until these things arrive. Why I've cancelled the MX-4 and only waiting on the shims before I can decide what to do.
 
It is a adjustable Weller soldering station, if the numbers on the dial are watts then 450
Yeah my worry was also torching the thermal compound CUZ i have a little propane torch too, but i decided it was probably too much of the good stuff.

I have looked over my footage from today, and no cameras was dropped, it just stop recording some times, it did also throw up a little blue box on the LCD screen, but while i was driving so not able to read what it said.
I just assume it said slow SD card or something. ( i was using my Sandisk high endurance card today )
 
kamkar1 said:
, if the numbers on the dial are watts then 450
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That is probably the temperature, likely 45 watts, still reasonably powerful.
 
It get hot, you do not want it on the MAX setting with a fine tip, even larger tips also fade pretty fast.
I actually need to get some new tips for it
 
I think soldering the plates is the NOT the solution. It will likelly to end up in a big mess with the potential of destroying the only pieces you have in hand, then you whole project is over. My approach will be the droplets of epoxy resin at the corners of the heatsink keeping it from slidding off from the emi shield lid. In between the 2 parts the M4 compound of course. If that doesn't stick very well, then I will take the spring approach as per @SawMaster idea, but I feel confident the epoxy will do it's job. I will post pictures once I get the my order and put hings together.
 
you of course do not want to do this anywhere near the PCB, i had my heat sink in a clamp with a large coin on the inside of the EMI shield to not deform it.
 
kamkar1 said:
you of course do not want to do this anywhere near the PCB, i had my heat sink in a clamp with a large coin on the inside of the EMI shield to not deform it.
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you can still clamp the parts together and use your favorite thermal paste in the middle and the epoxy at the corners instead. Doesn't hurt to try. Just make sure the area is free of any contaminants and that there is no thermal paste in those 4 points particularly. In my opinion it take less pain, then if that doesn't work, proceed to the next options available.
 
That was my initial plan, but both my epoxy glues was out, regular 2 component epoxy and one special for metal ( also 2 component )
 
kamkar1 said:
It is a adjustable Weller soldering station, if the numbers on the dial are watts then 450
Yeah my worry was also torching the thermal compound CUZ i have a little propane torch too, but i decided it was probably too much of the good stuff.

I have looked over my footage from today, and no cameras was dropped, it just stop recording some times, it did also throw up a little blue box on the LCD screen, but while i was driving so not able to read what it said.
I just assume it said slow SD card or something. ( i was using my Sandisk high endurance card today )
Click to expand...

Sandisk High Endurance should be fine. I run that in the camera and never miss video except when camera stops recording due to heat.
 
EGS said:
This is the type of epoxy I'm talking about, in case some one wants to have an idea. It will set in 5 minutes after mixed.

Click to expand...

This is the proper epoxy if you don't want to ever unmount whatever's being adhered to. I.E. Heatsink to EMI Shield. I havent decided if I'm going this route or not. It depends upon the copper shim I ordered. I want to see what I'm working with. Soldering might be a less permanent solution. So again, play by ear.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina.htm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0009IQ1BU

This may be another option as they state they are adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07X82MNF2
 
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HonestReview said:
This is the proper epoxy if you don't want to ever unmount whatever's being adhered to. I.E. Heatsink to EMI Shield. I havent decided if I'm going this route or not. It depends upon the copper shim I ordered. I want to see what I'm working with. Soldering might be a less permanent solution. So again, play by ear.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina.htm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0009IQ1BU

This may be another option as they state they are adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07X82MNF2
Click to expand...
The epoxy I'm talking about IS NOT to be used as a thermal glue in between. Only to hold the two pieces as I mentioned. I used that link only as a representation for the stuff can be used, and as kamkar1 has mentioned, there is one made to bond in metals, which is a charcoal gray paste once mixed together.
 
By the way, those thermal pads can be a reasonable solution as they adhere fairly well. But I hate for you to make a decision based on something is not proven yet or based on what I do or say. At your own risk.
 
Yes.
I glued heat sinks to RAM modules ( on GFX cards ) with a little droplet of regular thermal paste on, and then small dabs of 2 component glue in each corner of the RAM module.
Worked fine for me never had a single heat sink come off.

On its own i think epoxy are a louse conductor of heat.

My plan was to make a "weld" with the glue along the side of the heat sink where it meet the EMI shield.

I also always planned on wedging the heat sink down anyway, i just needed the entire thing to stay together long enough while i assemble the rest of the camera and wedge the heatsink in.
But i think my soldering have a good grip none the less
 
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