A118 Novatek 96650 Full HD 1080P Car Camera DVR

Thsank you , Reverend . Your response encourages me and if video quality - day and night is comparable with other well known and well exalted dashcams ( as in Niko"s footage comparison with Pano),I wouls say that it is one of the best option , from all points of view...
 
Even though it is fairly close to the window (compared to other cams at least), it does still pick up reflections pretty bad if your window has a shallow slope (so it goes fairly far forward, for example). In the OP's videos he is driving a sort of Jeep I think (or something similar) so the wind shield is fairly vertical. But for example in my Focus (or similar cars like a Civic) the front window slops forward quite a bit, providing a lot more glass within view of the camera. This causes quite a bit of internal reflection of the top of the dash.

Not much you can do about that unfortunately.
 
wiring in a relay is not very hard. sometimes the hardest part is taking apart the trim to get to the wiring! basically what you'll be doing is cutting the + lead to your lighter a few inches away from the socket, adding in a relay (which works just like a switch but rather than a human toggling the switch, you get electricity to do the toggling for you via a tiny electromagnet), and then hooking up that relay to a key-switched circuit nearby to act as the trigger. assuming that pic you posted is of your car, then the wiring for your heated seats would be the perfect trigger circuit to use, since it's already right there, it's most likely key-switched, and thus you wouldn't have to tear apart the entire dash to find a key-switched wire to tap into. even if your car doesn't have heated seats, the wiring might already be there to tap into - just need to test using a voltmeter or test light.

you might want to consider going to a shop that does stereo or alarm system installs, and ask them to add a relay so that your lighter is only live when the key is on. should be relatively easy for a shop to do, and hopefully they won't charge you more than about $50 to do it, parts included. i could do it in about 10 minutes once i figured out how to take apart the trim pieces to get where i needed. unfortunately you're a bit far from houston, tx, or i'd offer to do it for you.

if you've never done electrical work before, and thus don't have any tools or parts, you might end up spending almost $50 buying everything you need to do it right, and then you'll have extra wires and connectors left over, taking up space. but then you'd also learn a valuable lesson in basic electronics, too, so that might be worth it for you. i started out with simple things like this, too - wiring up a power circuit for a PC i was building into my car to have MP3s through the stereo. that was back when the biggest portable mp3 player you could buy had 128 MEGS (not gigs!) of storage, and a cd deck that could read MP3 CDs was yet to be invented, or was still super expensive. meanwhile i was installing a retired K6-200mhz with 16mb ram and win95 on it, along with a 17gb drive full of music. :) that was almost 15 years ago. now i just use my android phone, but it was a neat project and i learned a lot from it.

if you do decide to do the work yourself, STAY AWAY from any wiring wrapped in bright colors such as yellow, orange or even blue. these are often for critical systems like airbags or if it's a hybrid/EV, they might be high current battery lines that will kill you if you handle them wrong. don't let that scare you though - just don't cut or tap into them and you'll be fine.
 
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Even though it is fairly close to the window (compared to other cams at least), it does still pick up reflections pretty bad if your window has a shallow slope (so it goes fairly far forward, for example). In the OP's videos he is driving a sort of Jeep I think (or something similar) so the wind shield is fairly vertical. But for example in my Focus (or similar cars like a Civic) the front window slops forward quite a bit, providing a lot more glass within view of the camera. This causes quite a bit of internal reflection of the top of the dash.

Not much you can do about that unfortunately.

some folks have figured out ways to have a CPL (polarizing) filter mounted to the lens on other cameras. mine could benefit from it as well, as you can see from the daytime video i posted a little ways up. if i can find a cheap PL filter on ebay the right size (looks like about 15-20mm might work, just a ballpark guess) i may try rigging something up - maybe cut a short piece of pvc pipe the right diameter, paint it black, then glue the filter to the tubing and tubing to the camera. trick is getting one large enough diameter that it doesn't crop the edges of the video, but small enough that it will actually fit.
 
in other news, my a118 failed to loop record once the card filled up. i had it set to 3 minutes and it was generating 3 minute files just fine... till the card filled up. wife called me out to the car and said "it's not recording, it says card full."

i changed it to 1 minute then did a format on the camera. we'll see what happens when it fills up again.

card is a ridata 32gb class 10, which spytec sold with the a118 as a package deal.
 
I actually have a few extra polarizing filters from old camera lenses. They are obviously too large (something like 5-6 cm across), but I could maybe cut one down and fit it in front of the camera somehow. That's a good idea!

I am actually taking my car in for some warranty work soon, so I'll ask the technicians there if they can do the rewiring you suggested, as hopefully it wouldn't void any warranty that way. Otherwise I'll probably do it myself.
 
Even though it is fairly close to the window (compared to other cams at least), it does still pick up reflections pretty bad if your window has a shallow slope (so it goes fairly far forward, for example). In the OP's videos he is driving a sort of Jeep I think (or something similar) so the wind shield is fairly vertical. But for example in my Focus (or similar cars like a Civic) the front window slops forward quite a bit, providing a lot more glass within view of the camera. This causes quite a bit of internal reflection of the top of the dash.

Not much you can do about that unfortunately.

Amen to that Brother. My 2012 Focus glares terribly. For a small car it has huge windshield, windscreen for our Euro friends :) Let me guess warranty issues with your DCT Tranny?

I belong to this forum it is awesome for Focus owners. I even plugged this site there!
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=121
I have a 2012 Focus SEL The Official name is MK3
 
I phoned the Ford dealer I purchased my car from last year, and they've advised me that doing this sort of rewiring will void my warranty, and they will not do the work to prevent that. So now I have to figure out what parts of the warranty would be voided, and if the risk is worth it since I have 7 years left on the warranty. Damn this is stupid, why does Ford hotwire the 12V outlet directly to the battery?
 
Ugh, that sucks. I mean obviously unplugging it isn't a huge deal, and I don't plan to have the motion sensor thing on anyway. But if I lend my car to someone else or have work done I want to make sure the person hasn't been driving it crazy (or driving it at all in the case of a mechanic!).

I've never done any electrical work in my life, how hard is it to wire it in right to the panel?

CHeck out the work I did on the car. http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/marine5270/library/?sort=3&page=3

Also the rear power port is not always on. It shuts off when the car goes to sleep. The front outlet by the seat heat switch stays on all the time.

Just got to focus fanatics and search my username MARINE it has the posts that might interest you. Remember, you have a MK3 That is your model.
 
I phoned the Ford dealer I purchased my car from last year, and they've advised me that doing this sort of rewiring will void my warranty, and they will not do the work to prevent that. So now I have to figure out what parts of the warranty would be voided, and if the risk is worth it since I have 7 years left on the warranty. Damn this is stupid, why does Ford hotwire the 12V outlet directly to the battery?
do it (or have it done) right, and they'll never know it was done and shouldn't affect your warranty. even if it did, it should only affect the system (the 12v socket) you modified. the rest of the warranty should still be intact. it's not that different from replacing the stereo head unit - if companies voided warranties for replacing the stereo, we'd have heard about it by now but tey have more sense than that. obviously they don't warranty the new stereo, but you get my point.
 
do it (or have it done) right, and they'll never know it was done and shouldn't affect your warranty. even if it did, it should only affect the system (the 12v socket) you modified. the rest of the warranty should still be intact. it's not that different from replacing the stereo head unit - if companies voided warranties for replacing the stereo, we'd have heard about it by now but tey have more sense than that. obviously they don't warranty the new stereo, but you get my point.

Yeah good point. I guess my decision now is to either wire the cam directly into the electrical panel, or get the 12v outlet changed to key triggered/sourced. I am leaning toward the latter as it would be less obvious to anyone inspecting the wiring in the case of a separate warranty issue with the electronics. And as you mentioned above, my seat heaters are right next to it.
 
A question: Do most of you guys use 1080p at 30fps, or 720p at 60fps? The 720p isn't exactly that high-quality, so I'm thinking of just using the 1080p.
 
I've yet to see anyone post they prefer 720P 60FS. Sure you might see more frames in slow mo for a high speed accident. The problem is at such a reduction in resolution the detail lost kind of cancels out the frame per second info gain.
 
If you have a sunroof or homelink, You can tap in there. Me, I am skittish on warranty concerns. I just use a three port outlet with double sided velco and place it under the drivers seat with an built-in on-off rocker and plug that into my rear power point. I hide all wires in the center console sides and headliner. Easy as heck. I plug in my Magellen smart gps, rear cam and front cam with extension.

This for front cam. You can go around the passenger side dash pillar. Take the cover from under the glove box, two yellow fasteners. Just grab and pull down and tuck all excess wires there.
: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B000Z0HVHAThis for the power point under the seat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B000LQFUH6
 
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If you have a sunroof or homelink, You can tap in there. Me, I am skittish on warranty concerns. I just use a three port outlet with double sided velco and place it under the drivers seat with an built-in on-off rocker and plug that into my rear power point. I hide all wires in the center console sides and headliner. Easy as heck. I plug in my Magellen smart gps, rear cam and front cam with extension.

That's a good idea too, I'll have to check for a rear outlet. I've never noticed one before, but I suppose I've never ridden in the back seat either! That gets around the need for any re-wiring.

So I assume your stuff just shuts off when the car goes to sleep after 5-10 min?
 
So I tried your suggestion and plugged it into the back outlet instead. It does turn off, but it takes 30 minutes after I leave the car. Is that typical for you?
 
I'm a 2013 Ford owner too and face the same issue with all my 12V lighter socket gadgets. A more non-intrusive but manual method is to use something like this ... A cigarette lighter socket with a on-off switch and a female extension. should be available for approx. $5 in most places
$_57.JPG
 
while that's a nice suggestion, it doesn't address the main issue - it's not automatic. you still have to remember to turn it on/off, just like you currently have to remember to plug/unplug things.

i maintain that properly installed accessories won't void any warranty.

then again i still don't know why ford still makes the 12v socket always hot. i see no reason for it except killing the battery, which makes no sense. almost no other manufacturer does it anymore.
 
have you checked the manual to see if it is always live, some Fords we have in Australia have ridiculously long timeout values on some of the accessories circuits, some up to an hour
 
have you checked the manual to see if it is always live, some Fords we have in Australia have ridiculously long timeout values on some of the accessories circuits, some up to an hour

My back outlet stays on for 30 minutes after the car is shut off. I wish it was something like 5 or 10. :\ My front one stays on all the time, from what I can see.
 
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