A119S Power Cycling and Black Xs Rant

USAFSSK

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<rant>

I've really tried to like these little cameras. The reviews were great. The reviews for it's predecessor (118) was excellent. The pricepoint was... on point. Even opted for GPS mounts and polarized filters. I liked that they were adhesive mount, inconspicuous, and relatively basic. They came on with the ignition, they did their thing, and went off with the ignition. No corrupted files. Saved videos in their own folder. I even chose a trusty retailer on Amazon who was also a listed retailer here, that could bundle these together for me (I'm a sucker for package deals). What's not to love?

Well...

From April until May, they worked great. No complaints. June rolled around, and the one in my wife's jeep started power cycling. Just randomly restarting. No biggie. Check the connections, move the power cable from the GPS mount to the Camera, problem seemed to subside. For a week or so.

The one in my truck started to do the same thing, just not as frequently. I got this, I know what to do! Unplugged power cable from GPS and plugged directly into camera. Fixed!-ish. Now the cables that were run around the windshield inside the trim and out of sight are now dangling down in view in order to plug into the side of the camera, as opposed to the top of the GPS. Eh, whatever, right?

Well, I could have kept on keepin' on like this, except both cameras would randomly lose user settings. Drop the GPS. Be "January 01 2009" or some nonsense. Sitting in my driveway for 5 minutes every few mornings resetting the settings to the settings that I set a few days ago... and then the power cycling starts back up again.

I contact my chosen retailer @BlackboxMyCar and relay my tale of woe... got a nice, quick response! He provided a link in the reply with instructions on how to change from my inherent version (v1.4maybe?) to v1.6. After updating both cameras, all problems seemed to disappear, and they were back to doing the thing I bought them to do! Yeah! Do that thing! No user input, just do your thing little camera! Yay! For a little while...

Now the power cycling has returned on one camera (still using factory supplied usb adapter and cable) though not as frequent as before. My camera gets the superfantastic black X's across the bottom of the screen requiring user input at every power-up to trick the camera into letting you into the menu to clear the already-clear "car number" page. That gets you 1, that is ONE, normal operation. Remember, reset the other settings, too, while you're in there, because the g-sensor, gps, speed units, date, time, etc, yeah, those settings are back to default again. When the camera powers down, it's back to the black X boxes when it comes back up. I've already missed a few noteworthy events on the road.

Should I try updating to v1.7? Or should I be sending these little cameras back home so their updated hardware sibling can come back?

</rant>
 
<rant>

I've really tried to like these little cameras. The reviews were great. The reviews for it's predecessor (118) was excellent. The pricepoint was... on point. Even opted for GPS mounts and polarized filters. I liked that they were adhesive mount, inconspicuous, and relatively basic. They came on with the ignition, they did their thing, and went off with the ignition. No corrupted files. Saved videos in their own folder. I even chose a trusty retailer on Amazon who was also a listed retailer here, that could bundle these together for me (I'm a sucker for package deals). What's not to love?

Well...

From April until May, they worked great. No complaints. June rolled around, and the one in my wife's jeep started power cycling. Just randomly restarting. No biggie. Check the connections, move the power cable from the GPS mount to the Camera, problem seemed to subside. For a week or so.

The one in my truck started to do the same thing, just not as frequently. I got this, I know what to do! Unplugged power cable from GPS and plugged directly into camera. Fixed!-ish. Now the cables that were run around the windshield inside the trim and out of sight are now dangling down in view in order to plug into the side of the camera, as opposed to the top of the GPS. Eh, whatever, right?

Well, I could have kept on keepin' on like this, except both cameras would randomly lose user settings. Drop the GPS. Be "January 01 2009" or some nonsense. Sitting in my driveway for 5 minutes every few mornings resetting the settings to the settings that I set a few days ago... and then the power cycling starts back up again.

I contact my chosen retailer @BlackboxMyCar and relay my tale of woe... got a nice, quick response! He provided a link in the reply with instructions on how to change from my inherent version (v1.4maybe?) to v1.6. After updating both cameras, all problems seemed to disappear, and they were back to doing the thing I bought them to do! Yeah! Do that thing! No user input, just do your thing little camera! Yay! For a little while...

Now the power cycling has returned on one camera (still using factory supplied usb adapter and cable) though not as frequent as before. My camera gets the superfantastic black X's across the bottom of the screen requiring user input at every power-up to trick the camera into letting you into the menu to clear the already-clear "car number" page. That gets you 1, that is ONE, normal operation. Remember, reset the other settings, too, while you're in there, because the g-sensor, gps, speed units, date, time, etc, yeah, those settings are back to default again. When the camera powers down, it's back to the black X boxes when it comes back up. I've already missed a few noteworthy events on the road.

Should I try updating to v1.7? Or should I be sending these little cameras back home so their updated hardware sibling can come back?

</rant>
Reloading the firmware will get rid of the XXXXXX issue and get your camera back up and running. It's a bug Viofo is still working on.

I'm assuming you have the V1 models (original GPS connection design). Power cycles are usually caused by powering through the GPS mount (on V1 models only) or the USB car adapter not "fitting" correctly in your cars 12v port. I would try another USB adapter if you have one.
 
I vote for sending them back home. If a camera fails to remember its own settings - dont believe this can be due to flickering contacts. Sounds like one of the following problems to me: either degradation of power-related motherboard components, or degradation of the onboard memory. Maybe both. Each is hardly repairable and means camera replacement. I would prefer moneyback though, since it is unlikely that new devices will have much better components within.
 
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I vote for sending them back home. If a camera fails to remember its own settings - dont believe this can be due to flickering contacts. Sounds like one of the following problem to me: either degradation of power-related motherboard components, or degradation of the onboard memory. Maybe both. Each is hardly repairable and means camera replacement. I would prefer moneyback though, since it is unlikely that new devices will have much better components within.

it's a firmware corruption issue, not hardware
 
Just an observation and I could be wrong, but from what I've been seeing the A119 series cams seem to need a more powerful and more stable PS than most other cams do. Those using longer USB cables have had more problems with these cams than others even when that very same set-up has worked well with other cams, and similar goes for those using aftermarket PS's and hardwire kits which worked fine with their old cams. This might also be the source of the firmware corruption as consistent adequate power is vital during the boot process in any device. One possible cause of this could be the simultaneous charging of the caps during the boot-cycle as their charging profile is much like their discharge profile- lots of power quickly but not for long. It's definitely something @viofo should have his engineers look into if they can't locate the problem elsewhere. Using only the supplied PS won't fix it if that PS isn't good enough either, and if other cams using similar hardware do well with less power there's little reason these need more ;)

These cams perform too well to be saddled with failures like this and unless they can be well-solved quickly I fear that Viofo's reputation will become like that of the 'Mini' cam series along with some of the 'bike' cams. If a dashcam is not reliable then it is junk, and the same goes if you have to continually 'fix' it :( After seeing what happened with the v1 mounts I am of the mind that Viofo's engineering and testing department isn't up to the job they've been given :mad: Those folks would be unemployed by now if they worked for me :eek:

Phil
 
Just an observation and I could be wrong, but from what I've been seeing the A119 series cams seem to need a more powerful and more stable PS than most other cams do.

power supply or memory card are the two sources of most problems with any camera, certainly worth looking at the power supply, personally I'm not a fan of the cig adapter and USB lead setup used, understand the convenience factor but not ideal I think
 
Agreed on the ciggie plugs, but that's a concession you have to make to deliver the ease of use that consumers want. I cannot see a hardwire-only cam generating too many sales even if that is definitely the best approach. Nobody said it was easy making most folks happy, just that it is possible :whistle:

Phil
 
it's a firmware corruption issue, not hardware
Both firmware and settings reside in onboard nonvolatile memory. If settings tend to get lost, and the firmware itself gets corrupted with time, to me it is a sign that smth may be wrong with the memory, and not with the firmware. Once contents of such memory are properly "written", no power problems happening to the camera - at bootup or whenever- should be able to influence the nonvolatile memory contents. On the other hand, I know that nonvolatile memory degradation may cause its cells to lose data with time. This process is power-independant, and on bad quality nonvolatile memory this is a real and common problem. In such cases, reflashing this memory (by reinstalling firmware and reconfiguring settings) would often fix the symptoms temporarily by refreshing the cells contents, but does not prevent future data losses, since cells degradation may only get worse with time. I may be wrong though.
 
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It's a firmware corruption issue, that doesn't mean it's a firmware problem though, a power related issue is most likely the root cause of the corruption issue
 
One possible cause of this could be the simultaneous charging of the caps during the boot-cycle as their charging profile is much like their discharge profile- lots of power quickly but not for long

Add to that a vehicle's cold start power requirement, compound that if it's a diesel...

personally I'm not a fan of the cig adapter and USB lead setup used, understand the convenience factor but not ideal

I've considered mounting battery-direct lugs on/in my dash in a similar fashion to most commercial vehicles, but that doesn't solve the power supply issue without investment. I've never been a fan of the cig-lighter plug adapters, then add to that neither the USB, nor the mini/micro USB, was never designed for as volatile of an environment as an automobile. Temperature, humidity, shock and vibration... never bodes well for friction-fit connections.

a power related issue is most likely the root cause of the corruption issue

I don't disagree, but haven't confirmed that the issues do not present when ideal controlled conditions are presented. The amount of time it takes to charge the caps should be less than a second, but that's an ignorant assumption on my part, and limited experience with capacitors that small. All I can compare to is a second or two of holding a 9v battery to a HVAC start-cap is enough to knock you off your feet when you touch the terminals to your butt. Wow, saying that out loud may explain so many things about why I think the way I think...
 
first step to troubleshooting A119S is verify the microSD card is compatible, then load FW1.2 or 1.7 or 2.0 and update/downgrade then reset using DEFAULT Settings Menu. view my 'How to Update Firmware' below. When power related issues occur consider the car interior and plastic dashboard off gassing that occurs covering interior windshield and dashcam power contacts. This would occur with any device permanently mounted over the dash. The gold contacts will also tarnish in hot weather. See below for my 'How to Improve Conductivity' video.

I agree these dashcams haven't undergone enough Alpha testing before offered to consumer market. The quality control also needs improvement. But if you like a challenge and enjoy tinkering this is dashcam for you, everyone one else should get refund and buy a more mature brand with reliable track record.


 
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