After all my doubts I bought one!... DavidUK's A119 odyssey

Try this one Nigel, it's the same price: http://www.colorfly.eu/download/DEBOCH Powerbank X6000.pdf

By the way, what does all that you said mean to a layperson (me)? If A119 draws 400mAh how long will the 6,000mAh one last me...ish?
That one makes sense, I think they got the other one wrong, probably just forgot to change the Wh value.

A119 = 0.4A * 5V = 2W = 2Wh per hour.
X6000 = 19.2Wh

It should last 19.2 / 2 = 9.6 hours.

These things are never 100% efficient, more like 90% so 9.6 * 0.9 = 8 hours 38 minutes.
 
@Nigel for the 5000 model, the correct Wh is here at 0:47 (and the 6000):
 
So, with Viofo having confirmed the A119 needs 1A, and others saying it draws 0.45mAh, am I reasonably safe to say this power pack will power it OK, and be safe, and not melt my car?

At £50 it's a bunch more than the Aukey one, but with 3 years free replacement warranty, German manufacturing, LiFePO4 technology, it's got to be a "cheap" option to the £189 CellLink, for occasional use?
 
That is better, they got that correct :)

Viofo's 1A is the maximum it will draw, maybe when first turned on and charging the capacitor, the supply should be capable of supplying that much for a short period. The average will be closer to 0.4A.

Note that because the voltage of these power banks is only 3.2 instead of 3.8 like a lipo, the 6000mAh is not as much power as for a 6000mAh lipo.

I would be happy with a high quality lipo as long as it is out of the sun near the floor, lipos are much safer and longer lasting than they used to be as long as they are decent quality ones, best to put it in a ventilated metal case so that it cant drip flaming plastic onto the carpets etc, car carpets and interiors in general are not self extinguishing, once they are on fire the car is scrap.

So, with Viofo having confirmed the A119 needs 1A, and others saying it draws 0.45mAh, am I reasonably safe to say this power pack will power it OK, and be safe, and not melt my car?

At £50 it's a bunch more than the Aukey one, but with 3 years free replacement warranty, German manufacturing, LiFePO4 technology, it's got to be a "cheap" option to the £189 CellLink, for occasional use?
Yes, looks decent to me.

Personally I would rarely get around to plugging it in unless it was permanently plugged in, if your not sure about if you need it then you could just use an ordinary USB phone charger for a while to see if it is required. Since the winter is arriving here in the UK, there is no need to worry about overheating for the next 6 months.
 
0.4A is about how much the cam draws during normal use, but during startup it spikes up to around 1.0A so the power supply (whether lighter adapter, USB power bank, or hardwire kit) needs to be able to deliver at least 1A. that short spike won't really affect how long it'll run on a given battery pack though.
 
0.4A is about how much the cam draws during normal use, but during startup it spikes up to around 1.0A
never saw that much draw during cameras startup. 1 camera draws a maximum of .5A, 2 cameras together draw 1.01A (rounded) maximum.
 
never saw that much draw during cameras startup. 1 camera draws a maximum of .5A, 2 cameras together draw 1.01A (rounded) maximum.

well Viofo must have had a reason to spend the money on a more expensive lighter adapter that can provide higher current. even my pre-release test version came w/ a generic-looking adapter that could produce 1.5A.

Another factor is temperatures - in really cold temps, the cam will probably draw more current, at least while recharging the caps. and the adapter itself may not be as efficient at those low temps, so having that overhead is a good safety margin.
 
in my tests 2 cameras together draw up to 1.01A maximum and provided voltage was from 4.7v to 5.3v. the original 2 USB ports adapter delivers 5.1v, amperage varies from 0.21A to 0.5A.
 
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@SergeiF

As you've noted, LiPo uses a different chemistry inside (LiFePo4 etc,).
Phil

Phil, a bit of correction there: LiPo battery now (not originally) specifies polymer packaging (not chemistry). There could be LiPo Li-ion lithium cobalt oxide , or LiPo LiFePO4, or LiPo lithium manganese oxide or lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide chemistry variants (very rare). Most of commercial LiPo batteries (rectangular pouches) are of cobalt type, second most common type is LiFePO4.
LiPo never means it is only LiFePO4.

Originally there was development of organic based electrolyte, thus "polymer" in the name, but due to marketing, now any battery in plastic (polymer) case (without metal rigid can/cell) is called LiPo.

In anyway, regular high density Li-Ion cobalt based chemistry is the explosive type. This type of LiPo is more dangerous than the metal can (or other Li-ion chemistries).
The reason why Cobalt based chemistry is so prevalent is simply due to higher (>30%) energy density.

In my opinion LiFePO4 is more superior technology due to simple fact that it can take more abuse.

While going back to miliamp hour ratings vs watt hours, it is a bit of misleading to simply calculate the Whr rating by multiplying amp hour by nominal voltage. One must look at the discharge graph and the area under it to determine actual Whr rating (or experimentally).

For example:
A battery that starts off with 1.5V with capacity of 1Ah, which drops off to 1.2V at 85% charge will have less watt hour than the battery that start with 1.5V with same 1Ah capacity which drops off to 1.2V at 50% capacity. Even if both have nominal 1.5V voltage and 1Ah capacity.

Li-ion (Cobalt) have nominal voltage of 3.6-3.7V but are starting off at ~4.2V, and safe low cut-off is at around 3.2V with relatively steep drop off (with 90% capacity used).
Li-ion (Iron) have nominal voltage of 3.2V, but are starting off at ~3.6V, and can safely be discharged as low as 2.7-2.5V with very flat discharge curve (more area under the curve).

Here is the graph I blatantly lifted off via the google image search that will explain why you would have different watt hour figure that the simple multiplication would show:
slide_21.jpg
 
Now I will go out from A119 threads and come back on October 28, 4PM with a lot of popcorn.

Email from Amazon saying it's being delivered today!

Get popping!!
 
Good info, thank you!
Just little offtopic: I think you bought finally your Porsche starting from looking at a Hyundai, for example. Adding more and more requests from a normal car you ended with a Porsche, maybe just limited because of money. What is your next option after Porsche?

enjoy,
Mtz
 
I had nine BMW's over 28 years, brief play with Aston Martin ten years ago for 1 year (wet feet) then Mercedes 5 months (rubbish!), then Audi 15 months (boring). So far everything about the Porsche keeps me smiling every time I drive it. It's even economical!
But yes, I did my research (I would, wouldn't I) and then decided it was right for me.

 
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OK, how many months/years did you search for it? Because for Viofo A119 I think you searched about 2 weeks.
Personally for me is not an option just 2 door for cars, but only if I am forced in some way like a Ferrari California as gift. :rolleyes:

enjoy,
Mtz
 
The kind of car that gets me into overdrive is a family-capable hatchback car ('five-door') that looks fairly ordinary so doesn't draw attention to itself and can go about its business of performing family duties (kids inside) without being noticed and with good ride quality on our potholed roads, but has a decent bit of ooomph and decent handling when required.
Some people call them 'sleepers' or 'Q-cars' although proper sleepers or Q-cars are hard to find in the UK due to our fetish for tiny engines with manual gearboxes trying to squeeze maximum economy due to the high tax on fuel. Fuel is currently about £5.50 ($7) per gallon here.
 
Yes, we had Audi A3 sport back for 7 years and they are a good Q-car. £30 car tax per annum. 50+ mpg. But still nippy.

20160811_190058.jpg

Swapped it two months ago for...

20160810_162638.jpg
 
It's arrived!

:eek:
With all these expensive cars why did you buy the entry level $100. A119 lol, why would you not consider buying the Street Guardian SG9665GC which deserves to be installed in a Porsche
 
The SG9665GC may be one of the best at $300 but the A119 is reckoned to be best value. Plus, for $200 I can buy another bottle of Krug!

Can you upload a comparison (new thread please) between the two, or are they in different vehicles? Not for me, but others who are interested in day, night, dusk, comparison.
 
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