Choosing a First Dash Cam

If you are looking for a Korean camera, there are very few fakes / copies so it usually does not matter where it is purchased from. For someone who doesn't want to spend a large amount of time researching, just pick one of the better Korean cameras and you will be done.

For Chinese cameras, the market is crazy but that is where the best deals are. They have lower prices but the market is flooded with clones and fakes. Also support (i.e. firmware updates) is often poor. If you are looking in this segment, your best bet is to buy from a reputable seller. The 2 cameras you linked to from Aliexpress are from unknown sellers who have sold 0 units of those cameras. No one knows what they will send. Niko mentioned some reputable sellers and your best bet is to purchase from them.

Probably the simplest list is as follows:
$50-$60 - G1W from Foxoffer or Saddle
$100 - GT300W (or latest equivalent from Shadow) - this is the tricky area since there are so many cameras from numerous manufacturers.
$100 - Mini 0801 if you want small size GPS

When you start spending more than that consider Korean cameras, Lukas LK-7900, Powerucc Panorama, Blackvue DR500GW-HD (if you want WiFi).
 
...and there you have it in a nutshell...even where to buy from.
 
I would add:
The biggest problem is "the clones of the clones" or clones of generic non-branded dash cams. Here is a sample: DOD LS300W was first, 1 moth later there were same model but so called "neutral", - still from TioTech but without DOD logo, then started coming out gt300w based dash cameras with good quality hardware and stable firmware ( still worth to buy but they are not from TioTech ), and then market was flooded with copies of the copies.
It's remind me years ago mobile phones market where there were dozens copies of the iphone copies of the copies.
 
But I want to confirm with the GT350w seller that I can get it in black, otherwise I'll go for the 450.

Others have posted about a liquid coating that can black out a camera Plasti Dip as an option if a camera has too much lettering and graphics on it. I haven't used the product, I've covered the lettering and IR lights on my camera with electrical tape for now.
 
In the gt350w listing, it shows 3 colors in pics - gold, blue, black.

I didnt realize ftw was an unknown, sure, ill get the foxoffer gt450w (ie tinier gt300w, i mean its just smaller so thats better, why would i care form factor over size) if I cant pick a black gt350w. Still no response so I might pass due to slow comm even if its in black (ill check my message tonight).

Hey field, thanks for the info, i know I could paint a gold gt350w but that takes time and money - not much, but ill just spend the $20 more for a smaller, 'prepainted' unit.

What exactly is the g1w/g2w, its just a gt300w with 12mb/s and 5g lens, ie slightly lower video quality? I mean thatd be an awesome deal on a cam (g sensor, wrd, security light, motion detect like gt300s?)? Seems to me that k6000 for $40 is pretty hard to beat as an entry model that lacks features and night, then a step up being the 12mb/s $70 clones.

Anyways, I see a gskill 32gb class 10 on newegg (US) for I think $21 shipped after some $6 savings, seems to be the best name brand class 10 i could find for value (16s were much more than 50% its price, ie 13+, and 64 is wayy expensive). Obviously gskill just rebrands stuff so I'll look more into what NAND they use and see if I can find a cheaper version of the same thing on ebay or something.

edit: samsung sdhc class 10 32gb $15
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321218004131
 
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Ah, it's quite common it appears. I'll just get whatever I get off newegg for sd cards.

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Sorry, I got the impression you drove various vehicles and the vertical windshield suggested a bus. Anyways a commercial driver might have to answer to their supervisor about a complaint about speeding. While not strong evidence for court it might be sufficient to argue a case with the supervisor.

What vertical windshield? I don't have any pics of my car -mazda 3 hatchback - anywhere here. And I only drive 1 vehicle. I stated in the OP that it would be only for a single vehicle, and I won't need to be mount/unmounting, it'd be semi-permanent fixture basically. I plan to hard wire this dash cam so I can get theft protection/motion detect.

This dash cam will be for a single, small hatchback, and no one would care if I was speeding or driving bad.

Anyways! Here's what I'm looking at at the moment:
Shadow GT300w $66
Niko keeps saying dont get it, he keeps saying it's givoe but nothing on the listing says givoe so im really confused what he's talking about, i think he's clicking a wrong link or something.
G2W $65
Smaller than G1W. Costs 9c more than the cheapest guy but has 97% and 4k+ feedback rather than sub-100 and ~95%.

G1w/G2w uses 4g lens, so no.

As I understand it, the G1W/G2W is the exact same internals, hardware, etc as the GT300w legits and is 15mb/s, the only problem is a bad mount included, who cares I don't mind working with it a bit, and a bad battery, which again, who cares since I'm hardwiring the unit to my car, and, I would have no problem making my own battery pack from AA batteries or Lithium ions or whatever.

Otherwise:
GT450w on foxoffer.
I dont have a problem from buying from FTW - he's got 1400 FB with 99%, that's rather impressive. But okay, it's only a $1, and you guys are *really* insistent I buy this from foxoffer instead... so for this particular choice, okay. I really, really don't agree, but I'll just go with foxoffer rather than argue over a $1. Instead let's argue about what's more important.
 
Okay so a guy named Kain says that the Shadow GT300 $66 I linked looks exactly like a 'fake' LS3000 that had 12mb's.

So I'm curious - what's better, a 'neutral'/givoe/etc GT300 w/12mbs, or a G1W/G2W w/15mbs & 4G lens. And then, how do they compare to a legit GT300w 15mb/6G?

Because $40 is a huge price savings, that's almost half cost...
 
Price difference vs video quality + reliability is proportional. You pay less, - you get less.
 
Okay, well what I'd like to know, is how the video quality compares. It isn't directly proportional either, the more you spend, the less increase in quality/reliability proportional to each marginal dollar.

So I'd be interested in knowing what's better, the G1W vs VF300w. Then, I'd like to know how the better of those 2, compare to a $100 GT300w-type. I mean $30-50 is a huge price gap, enough to make me hold off on buying a dash cam for a few days.

Also, I'm hearing some very confusing information how you shouldn't hardwire dash cams with batteries?

What I intend to do, is hardwire the dash cam I get to my fuse box, to save a cig lighter outlet and reduce noticeable wiring, as I plan to have the cam semi-permanent and only in a single car. I would appreciate the ability to turn the cam, or even pull it off (and maybe keep recording off battery) during an incident, ie I see a car crash and I want to get out and keep recording, or someone hits me from the side, so I can turn the dash cam toward them.

Finally, let me make this clear - like I said in the OP, I don't mind a shaky or weak mount (or build quality overall) as I'm a very DIY person. I don't mind having to spend time 'fixing' a cam in order to make it better. Like I said in the OP, I don't mind having to take a cheap cam, and having to do a little work to make it the best cam. I also don't mind a bad battery, as I am comfortable making/replacing the battery.

I've spent almost a hundred hours on this and this thread is 3 pages, and I still don't see a conclusive choice yet.
 
Okay, well what I'd like to know, is how the video quality compares. It isn't directly proportional either, the more you spend, the less increase in quality/reliability proportional to each marginal dollar.

So I'd be interested in knowing what's better, the G1W vs VF300w. Then, I'd like to know how the better of those 2, compare to a $100 GT300w-type. I mean $30-50 is a huge price gap, enough to make me hold off on buying a dash cam for a few days.

Also, I'm hearing some very confusing information how you shouldn't hardwire dash cams with batteries?

What I intend to do, is hardwire the dash cam I get to my fuse box, to save a cig lighter outlet and reduce noticeable wiring, as I plan to have the cam semi-permanent and only in a single car. I would appreciate the ability to turn the cam, or even pull it off (and maybe keep recording off battery) during an incident, ie I see a car crash and I want to get out and keep recording, or someone hits me from the side, so I can turn the dash cam toward them.

Finally, let me make this clear - like I said in the OP, I don't mind a shaky or weak mount (or build quality overall) as I'm a very DIY person. I don't mind having to spend time 'fixing' a cam in order to make it better. Like I said in the OP, I don't mind having to take a cheap cam, and having to do a little work to make it the best cam. I also don't mind a bad battery, as I am comfortable making/replacing the battery.

I've spent almost a hundred hours on this and this thread is 3 pages, and I still don't see a conclusive choice yet.

I just replayed you regarding hard-wire in other thread.
No offence, but as I have mentioned earlier, it is hard to follow your same questions all over 4 different topics. Thats why after as you said 100 hours of reading you still dont get much stuff.
If you would stick to one thread, - it would be much easier to us to help you and for you to understand. Now its all chaotic.
 
If I post in 4 threads, I'll get 4x the answers. So if I didn't do that, it would have taken me 400 hours.

No one is going to answer my questions in regards to battery hardwiring and exploding batteries in here. Someone made a rather outrageous claim in another thread (not outrageous as in false, outrageous as in exploding!), I asked him for clarification, and a natural conversation followed. It would have been very weird to post in here "some dude talked about 'splodin batteries, wtf?' Just because it's relevant to what I want in a dash cam, doesn't mean it belongs in this thread necessarily.

I mean, it'd be great if all future dash cam talk could stay in this thread for the next 2 weeks. That'd really just be the best, as there's only like 4 active forum members here...

I will try to streamline my posts and threads niko. I apologize.
 
If I post in 4 threads, I'll get 4x the answers. So if I didn't do that, it would have taken me 400 hours.

No one is going to answer my questions in regards to battery hardwiring and exploding batteries in here. Someone made a rather outrageous claim in another thread (not outrageous as in false, outrageous as in exploding!), I asked him for clarification, and a natural conversation followed. It would have been very weird to post in here "some dude talked about 'splodin batteries, wtf?' Just because it's relevant to what I want in a dash cam, doesn't mean it belongs in this thread necessarily.

I mean, it'd be great if all future dash cam talk could stay in this thread for the next 2 weeks. That'd really just be the best, as there's only like 4 active forum members here...

I will try to streamline my posts and threads niko. I apologize.

No worries. You doing right thing to ask questions, thats why we all here: to ask, to help and to learn. And I mean all members, we all learn from sharing, debating and discussing.
Dont mind some time my grammar mistakes. English id not my native language and answering by using mobile phone makes some time even harder for others to und3rstand what i wrote:)
 
I eagerly await your results on the G1W vs VF300w vs GT300w. I'd like to know which of the ~$70 cams is better, G1W or VF300w, and I'd like to know if the quality drop is that big, or if it's really worth spending 50% more for a GT300w. I'll make a choice based on that.

On an aside, I'm confused about hardwiring these cams now. Can I hardwire them to the fuse box safely, can't I, what do I need to do in order to do so, is there a way to hardwire it in a way that if I pull the dash cam (like out of my car) to continue recording an airplane crash over the hill, if it will be able to run off the battery power and continue recording, or if I have to remove the battery when hard-wiring and not be able to do that (i know, phone, but even a nice phone cam on an iphone 5s sucks compared to a sub-$100 dash cam).

I just want the ability for motion detect/parking protect, and I'm really confused on why even the G1W would have a motion sensor/parking protect feature if apparently it's not allowed to do that.
 
On an aside, I'm confused about hardwiring these cams now. Can I hardwire them to the fuse box safely, can't I, what do I need to do in order to do so, is there a way to hardwire it in a way that if I pull the dash cam (like out of my car) to continue recording an airplane crash over the hill, if it will be able to run off the battery power and continue recording, or if I have to remove the battery when hard-wiring and not be able to do that (i know, phone, but even a nice phone cam on an iphone 5s sucks compared to a sub-$100 dash cam).

I just want the ability for motion detect/parking protect, and I'm really confused on why even the G1W would have a motion sensor/parking protect feature if apparently it's not allowed to do that.

I can't answer the question on the G1W etc. cameras, but on connecting to the car battery I've given that some thought whether I want to or not. See the article http://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/ for a good discussion on how to do it and to use a battery discharge limiter to protect your battery from discharging too low.

Yes you can hard wire direct too the fuse box. I learned about these neat add-a-circuit accessories reading about dashcams. You pull out a fuse to non-critical always-on circuit, plug in the add-a-circuit and pop in the fuse you took out into the add-a-circuit. So far you're back to the way it was. But you now have a place for a second fuse which gives you power off the wire lead. So there is your 12 volts.

Next you can get a cigarette lighter socket (or whatever they're called these days) from a car parts place, wire the socket to the new circuit and plug in your power to your camera. Now full-time power. Now to prevent your battery from draining completely, you can add a discharge limiter mentioned above that cuts power to the camera when the battery drops below X volts. On some the X is settable, on other devices it's a fixed voltage. Read about minimum voltages for car batteries, you want to stay above that, some cut out at too low a voltage by which time you've stressed the car battery and shortened its life.

With the above setup and if you get a camera that automatically switches to parking/motion detection mode, you are all set. Install and forget about it. As long as you have voltage > the discharge device cut off limit, you'll be recording driving or parking lot events. As for the battery in the camera, seems the issues are with hot weather, I'm not entirely sure. If you are in a hot area check out the discussions about batteries exploding in hot weather. I think you just leave the battery in the camera, some come out, some are soldered in. I haven't read about people pulling the battery out of the camera. If it's related to the G1W, I haven't read about that camera.

[Added] I just re-read your question, I'm not entirely sure but are you thinking when you run hard-wired you need to remove the battery? Whether running off the supplied power that comes with the camera or hardwired to the car, it's the same, the supplied charger is in the circuit, whether it's plugged into the cigarette lighter socket or the socket you add off the fuse box. The cameras won't run more than 10-20 minutes off the built-in battery so isn't a practical way to go. [end of added]

For videoing outside the car, my existing starter dash cam power comes by 5v mini usb plugged into the camera. I can unplug the camera (it'll turn off), remove the camera from the car, remember to turn it back on to record, and step out to video that plane crash, car crash, accident on road, on whatever awesome natural phenomenon is happening. Personally, I think it would be easier to just use my cellphone camera for videoing outside of the car. I would trade off video quality for ease of use of the cellphone over the dash cam. Remember also your dashcam will be behind your mirror and not so easy to access. Maybe your still running dashcam will provide another recording on what is going on outside.

At this point, I've read enough and learned enough from the starter camera and have started a conversation with an eBay seller to buy a Mini 0801. The trade-off is it doesn't have practical parking mode (it takes 8 button presses to get there in the menu). Also I'm not interested in wiring in a discharge limiter so parking mode is out. If I really need it, I'll use a $100 20,000 mAh lithium iPod charger with USB ports.
 
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With the above setup and if you get a camera that automatically switches to parking/motion detection mode, you are all set. Install and forget about it. As long as you have voltage > the discharge device cut off limit, you'll be recording driving or parking lot events.

Just to clarify: - it will not go automatically into parking mode, - you still need to select a motion detection from menu settings when car is parked.
There are only handful dash cams out there which goes automatically into parking mode / motion detection ( if its previously selected from settings ) after ignition switched off. Those are mostly high priced Korean dash cams.
 
Yea fieldofview, I thought you might take out the battery when hardwiring. So I just hardwire by plugging the ac adaptor cable that plugs into the outside of the dash cam or whatever to cig socket (which is hooked up via add-a-fuse). And then, if I want to record a plane crash over the hill, I pull the cam and it'll run off battery (which I may or may not have to re-power on).

So if the cam won't automatically go into parking mode, I have to select it... but they still will do auto on/off with the car start, right? G1W, VF300w, Gt300w... Why would a cam have parking mode and not do it automatically, seems rather silly...

So where do I get a discharge limiter that works (that altronix linked, doesnt say how to use it effectively, the link is not to what he says it is).

There are only handful dash cams out there which goes automatically into parking mode / motion detection ( if its previously selected from settings ) after ignition switched off. Those are mostly high priced Korean dash cams.

Like what?
 
Yea fieldofview, I thought you might take out the battery when hardwiring. So I just hardwire by plugging the ac adaptor cable that plugs into the outside of the dash cam or whatever to cig socket (which is hooked up via add-a-fuse). And then, if I want to record a plane crash over the hill, I pull the cam and it'll run off battery (which I may or may not have to re-power on).

So if the cam won't automatically go into parking mode, I have to select it... but they still will do auto on/off with the car start, right? G1W, VF300w, Gt300w... Why would a cam have parking mode and not do it automatically, seems rather silly...

So where do I get a discharge limiter?



Like what?

TO enable motion detection recording in parking mode, your dash cam has to be hard-wired to constant power. After you park car, switch off ignition, go to dash camera menu settings, select motion detection ON. It's about 6-7 clicks. Same 6-7 click ( but opposite ) procedure when you want to set it back to normal recording, - not comfortable, but what else do you want for this price ?

Those Korean dash cameras with automatic parking mode are way out of your budget. If I remember last one I saw for 250-300 usd, or something.
THere are some cheaper dash cams where motion detection recording for parking mode can be activated with one push of a button.
 
Yea fieldofview, I thought you might take out the battery when hardwiring. So I just hardwire by plugging the ac adaptor cable that plugs into the outside of the dash cam or whatever to cig socket (which is hooked up via add-a-fuse). And then, if I want to record a plane crash over the hill, I pull the cam and it'll run off battery (which I may or may not have to re-power on).

So if the cam won't automatically go into parking mode, I have to select it... but they still will do auto on/off with the car start, right? G1W, VF300w, Gt300w... Why would a cam have parking mode and not do it automatically, seems rather silly...

So where do I get a discharge limiter that works (that altronix linked, doesnt say how to use it effectively, the link is not to what he says it is).

There are some discharge limiters listed here. I personally haven't tried them but from my reading, the best option seems to be the ones where you can select the cutoff voltage. Some cutoff at too low a voltage and your car battery will be stressed and will fail prematurely.

Right, so the two modes. If you have constant power, the dash cam will be on all the time ignition on or off. If the power is switched on/off with the ignition, when the ignition is on or in Accessory position, the camera will start automatically (or should, my cheap one does). The models you mention I'm not familiar with. Yeah, the parking /motion detection mode seems rather silly when it takes 8 or more button pushes to enable. A one button push is more practical. Personally I gave up on finding a camera with auto parking mode because the cameras with that feature cost more than what I'm willing to pay. As I've mentioned, maybe if I'm going to park for a long time, say at the airport, I'll enable parking mode but run the camera off a stand alone lithium battery pack, there are some for recharging an ipad, there is enough charge to run the camera for days.

I've also read the run time on built-in battery declines with time so 20 minutes will eventually drop to 10 minutes. So better to get the plane crash in sight before turning on the camera. Also don't forget to see what assistance you can render first.
 
Like what?


Like the Lukas LK-7900 that I suggested you look at in another thread.

Screen Shot 2013-10-05 at 5.48.14 PM.png

You won't find automatic parking mode switching on dash cams in the price range you're looking at.
Like Niko said, a hand full of higher priced Korean cams (with capacitors and hardwired) is what you should look at if you want this feature.
 
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