With all due respect, based on your questions you need to take the time and read this forum a bit more and educate yourself.
That being said, the VF300W will have different FW and probably a 4G glass instead of 6G along with a lower Bitrate.
Differences will be minimal, but it's all built to a price so you will generally get what you pay for. Whether one chooses to pay $63 or $99 for a similar cam is up to you. In the end it's a confusing market with clones of clones!
yea i know the battery/sd card is pretty basic, i figured there'd be a quick link that explains it. I'm really surprised how little compiled data there is on dash cams. And I've already taken a *ton* of time to research into dash cams, having to trawl through hundreds of forum posts is a bit tedious. I mean I understand these are basic questions but jeez, why is something only ~$50 so complicated. I don't think anything besides a car or house/investment takes as much research...
What's the deal with different firmwares? Can't you flash them across eachother? What's the difference between them in firmware? I don't really care much about software, I'm more of a hardware guy. I understand, ease of getting around the OS and uploading to the computer and such, but I don't think I'll be doing that as this is less for travel video and more for accidents, stupid ****, theft protection, etc.
Thanks for the input, so avoid all 'neutral', VF300, givoe, or shadow dash cams.
. If you drive buses, it might come in handy that although visually it appears you are driving 45 mph down that narrow residential street, the gps will show 25 mph (I made that up, I don't know what the exact effect of the wide angle lens is). As for location, I figure the places, buildings, bushes, signs, etc in the video will give the location. GPS isn't only for location. I probably won't use it for location, it's the speed record I want.
I don't get it. To prove you weren't speeding or something when an incident occurs? Because isn't it questionable for courts to accept it, and secondly I speed a little like most drivers, ie 5-10 over. I mean I have a speedometer. I don't drive buses though, it's just for a car.
As for larger SD card, what you are interested in may not be in the last 90 minutes that the card retains. Particularly if you are driving a bus I'd think you'd want your whole shift. If a complaint comes in that at 8AM you are alleged to have run a red light, there's a better chance with a larger SD card that you have video of 8AM from the previous day. You may not know ahead of time what footage you need. The incident may be so insignificant that you don't capture the moment by pressing a button on the camera. My next dash cam will have a 32 GB card.
Oh... okay, so basically not for capturing an incident, but more as an alibi. I'm not worried about complaints about my driving. So... I'll get the smallest sd card possible.
I'm aware that you need a class 10 card like every resource says, what I don't know, is the many class 10 cards that despite being class 10, don't work well, and that certain cards work much better for unknown reasons (just like any NAND), as some people are claiming I don't do any research. I've done tons of hours of research, and this is ridiculous, if you know so much about cams you'd really cut the spam like my post if a guide was compiled that was up to date (I know dashcamman is doing just that, but unfortunately his hasn't quite been updated yet, doesn't discuss where to buy from, and doesn't discuss the millions of clones that each model has).
One option is to buy whatever you can find locally, cheap, as a starter camera. Use it for a few weeks to get a feel for what you are looking for. Video quality won't be the best but it won't be that bad. Then in a few weeks buy what you really need based on the trial. I found my dash cam on the shelf at a local computer store and bought it sight unseen. Fortunately the computer store did their homework and stocked a decent 720p no-name unit.
Eh, it's okay. If I don't like the cam, I can just sell it, i really don't consider that a hassle as I do a lot of ebay selling, craigslist, etc. If it doesn't work out, I can sell it for market value and worst case scenario, have paid a $3 'rental fee' (ie shipping).
Edit: GT350w for $87
I'm PM'ing the seller to see if I can get it in black instead of ugly gold or blue.
Otherwise, I'll go for the aliexpress gt450 $105