DAB radio in Golf MK7 affected. Losing signal

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Hi all,
Just fitting a new mini 906 and still need to setup a hardwire connection, which I will follow posts, any recommendations please post.

Main question. My DAB (digital radio in the UK) is quite badly affected, it constantly drops signal. I did find some dual channel setups can do this, has anyone found a solution?
 
Ensure that you are using the accessories that came with the dashcam, without cutting any wires. Also try to separate the dashcam wires from the DAB antenna, to ensure there isn't any interference. Has this always happened, or only since you got installed the dashcams ? I've found that in UK DAB radio signal seems to be pretty weak in all my cars (around Oxfordshire at least)

In addition, if you have 'slack' cables from the cameras, try not to bunch them behind teh stereo, but may try leaving them in the roof lining, out of the way. Coiling cables that pass a signal through them can cause interference, so if you have to do this, keep it as far away as possible from anything it may interfere with.

I had an issue with my DAB radio, where the DAB antenna AND the dashcam video cables, AND the dashcam GPS cable (it's non mini 0906) AND the stereo GPS cable were all running down the left side A pillar, under the dash, and all bunched up behind the stereo. By moving my DAB antenna to the right hand side of the windscreen, and have it's cable running down the right side A pillar, I got much stronger DAB signal (still nothing I can do about bad signal in Oxfordshire, but at least I'm now able to get the best I can from the signal)
 
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Shielding, distance between all components of both systems, and a better DAB antenna may help. Apparently many factory antennas do poorly regards interference. What seems to be most effective is keeping as much distance as possible between cams + cabling and the DAB antenna as is possible. Sometimes even the best efforts aren't effective in whole or part and all you can do is try. There's a thread here somewhere discussing this in detail but I can't find it anymore.

Phil
 
Ensure that you are using the accessories that came with the dashcam, without cutting any wires. Also try to separate the dashcam wires from the DAB antenna, to ensure there isn't any interference. Has this always happened, or only since you got installed the dashcams ? I've found that in UK DAB radio signal seems to be pretty weak in all my cars (around Oxfordshire at least)

In addition, if you have 'slack' cables from the cameras, try not to bunch them behind teh stereo, but may try leaving them in the roof lining, out of the way. Coiling cables that pass a signal through them can cause interference, so if you have to do this, keep it as far away as possible from anything it may interfere with.

I had an issue with my DAB radio, where the DAB antenna AND the dashcam video cables, AND the dashcam GPS cable (it's non mini 0906) AND the stereo GPS cable were all running down the left side A pillar, under the dash, and all bunched up behind the stereo. By moving my DAB antenna to the right hand side of the windscreen, and have it's cable running down the right side A pillar, I got much stronger DAB signal (still nothing I can do about bad signal in Oxfordshire, but at least I'm now able to get the best I can from the signal)

Thanks will try move the run of the cable to the back. Am also Buckinghamshire, but have driven a fair bit, issue all around. Found a YouTube video of a review causing same issue, disconnected the rear camera and it’s fine.
 
Shielding, distance between all components of both systems, and a better DAB antenna may help. Apparently many factory antennas do poorly regards interference. What seems to be most effective is keeping as much distance as possible between cams + cabling and the DAB antenna as is possible. Sometimes even the best efforts aren't effective in whole or part and all you can do is try. There's a thread here somewhere discussing this in detail but I can't find it anymore.

Phil

Thanks, seems both suggestions are re the shielding and when the rear camera is disconnected it’s fins so clearly there somewhere.
 
I have the problem with Skoda, whereas I do not have DAB. The radio quality drops significantly as soon as I turn the dashcam on.
This was a bit of a problem with only the main camera installed, but it's even more noticeable when I have the read camera installed.
So it could be VW/Skoda issue...
 
I have installed the both channels on Golf mk7 and the FM signal is weaker in my case too. It seems a roll of wire (wire is too long for the car) is interfering the DAB/FM2 (my radio does not support DAB) and/or AM/FM1 amplifier
 

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Coiled wire can amplify the signal leaking from the cable. Either run it zig-zag or find somewhere else to take out the slack. Coiled wire can also hamper the wanted signal going through it or can reflect some of the signal power back to it's source, damaging the output hardware of the device. Never loop or coil any wiring.

Phil
 
What about how most USB and power supply cables come folded/wrapped with dash cams?
 
What about how most USB and power supply cables come folded/wrapped with dash cams?
You should uncoil them and straighten them out before use.

Although the USB power cables should only have DC current in them, so actually leaving them coiled could help filter out any noise in the same way as adding a ferrite core at the end does. You should never leave AC power cables coiled.
 
I have the excess from 5 cables coiled up together in the glovebox like that, good to know it's not a problem. I remember thinking if this could be a concern when I compared the audio noise from the dash cams in my car.
 
I have the excess from 5 cables coiled up together in the glovebox like that, good to know it's not a problem. I remember thinking if this could be a concern when I compared the audio noise from the dash cams in my car.
Potentially noise from one could transfer to the others if they are next to each other, but unless you notice a problem then I wouldn't worry about it.
There is also the possibility of them overheating if all the heat is generated in a small enclosed space, but you will not be using enough power to need to worry about that.
 
Potentially noise from one could transfer to the others if they are next to each other, but unless you notice a problem then I wouldn't worry about it.
There is also the possibility of them overheating if all the heat is generated in a small enclosed space, but you will not be using enough power to need to worry about that.

Yeah I don't think heating is a worry. It's a cooled glovebox anyway but I keep the vent closed.
 
Thanks guys. I know about the electrics barely nothing. But just to be sure. The cable connecting the cameras uses AC and I need to solve the coiled cables?

Any suggestions where to place the slack please? Btw in the glovebox is an OEM radio/navi unit so I am not sure about this solution. Or I will use the alternative with the zig zag routing in the roof lining.
 
Thanks guys. I know about the electrics barely nothing. But just to be sure. The cable connecting the cameras uses AC and I need to solve the coiled cables?

Any suggestions where to place the slack please? Btw in the glovebox is an OEM radio/navi unit so I am not sure about this solution. Or I will use the alternative with the zig zag routing in the roof lining.
The cable to the rear camera has DC power plus video signals traveling through it. The video signals are sort of AC and can cause noise in neighbouring cables including radio antenna cables where you definitely don't want noise.

So you don't want to leave that cable coiled, or run it too close to the radio antenna cables, or the radio antenna itself.

If you are getting reception issues on the radio then it is as much a fault in the radio antenna as it is in the camera, car manufacturers do normally fit low quality ones, a good quality antenna with good quality antenna cable should be fairly resistant to noise from the camera, but in poor reception areas you may need to use a roof antenna.
 
USB power cables should only have DC current in them, .

Nope, they must by necessity of the use of switching PS's have some AC elements involved too. No switching is pure and perfect, and at every switching cycle there will be spikes, surges, and reversals of current flow because of that, creating AC even if only minimally. This is why I said RFI is inherent in switching PS's because it is. RF cannot be generated with a DC current- that takes an AC current. RFI exists here, therefore at least some AC must be present for that to occur. RF doesn't behave like DC, therefore premises which apply to DC do not apply equally here. When USB was developed, it was known, intended to, and used switching PS's, although other sources could be used too. By that time, switching PS's were the only ones being used save for specialty applications because they were far more efficient, less costly, smaller, lighter, and worked excellently in their intended applications. The developers knew there would be some AC present, but it wasn't significant enough to be a problem with USB's intended use. Now we're using USB in uses far beyond it's design intents, and now we're having problems. You cannot totally choke or filter out all AC in a DC current. No technology exists to do this at that level. And that is even moreso when that AC is at RF frequencies. So the RF and AC is there in USB too, just as they knew it would be.

In RF engineering you can use a coil to amplify or to choke a given frequency. There are many elements involved with that including cosmic radiation if you care to measure it that carefully (which has been done). Any loop or coil you make has the potential to amplify that RF, therefore the best and simpliest way to avoid that type of amplification is to avoid coiling or looping. Yes, you might also create a choke, but that is the less likely outcome of the two, as RF tends to reflect back to the originating coil from the ones adjacent to it, thus gaining energy with each cycle which increases the tendency until a saturation point is reached where the coil can carry no more current. Creating a choke takes a more exact sizing and spacing of the coils, and even then it acts as a choke only at one frequency and to a lesser degree with the harmonics of that frequency. And in our usage, there's a car body and wiring and computer signals all adding to the effect. In fact, if you were to have a pure DC current to start with it would not be pure at the load because of those interactions unless you shielded it 100% from that, and shielding cannot be done at that level either.

Even if we power our cam with a battery which isthe only known pure DC power source, you will still find AC on the USB cable. This is because the cam is not a purely resistive load, and it too will influence the current flowing on the USB cable, reflecting some of the current back cyclically as AC or steadily in a standing waveform which will not remain static as the load changes and creating AC in the process. This is all simple stuff to a radio geek like me, but it's far beyond what electrical engineering covers in it's normal sense and usage, and this is an RF game, not a DC one.

Cordially,
Phil
 
Thanks guys. I know about the electrics barely nothing. But just to be sure. The cable connecting the cameras uses AC and I need to solve the coiled cables?

Any suggestions where to place the slack please? Btw in the glovebox is an OEM radio/navi unit so I am not sure about this solution. Or I will use the alternative with the zig zag routing in the roof lining.

The key points are to avoid coiling or looping, to avoid paralleing any wiring to the antenna, and to have as much distance as is practical between the antenna or device which is being adversely affected and any wiring or cables going to it. Sometimes adding ferrite chokes over cabling can help. There are so many variables involved here that only a generalized answer like this can be of much use to you. Just keep trying till you're satisfied or disgusted- that's all you can really do.
 
Nope, they must by necessity of the use of switching PS's have some AC elements involved too. No switching is pure and perfect, and at every switching cycle there will be spikes, surges, and reversals of current flow because of that, creating AC even if only minimally. This is why I said RFI is inherent in switching PS's because it is. RF cannot be generated with a DC current- that takes an AC current. RFI exists here, therefore at least some AC must be present for that to occur. RF doesn't behave like DC, therefore premises which apply to DC do not apply equally here. When USB was developed, it was known, intended to, and used switching PS's, although other sources could be used too. By that time, switching PS's were the only ones being used save for specialty applications because they were far more efficient, less costly, smaller, lighter, and worked excellently in their intended applications. The developers knew there would be some AC present, but it wasn't significant enough to be a problem with USB's intended use. Now we're using USB in uses far beyond it's design intents, and now we're having problems. You cannot totally choke or filter out all AC in a DC current. No technology exists to do this at that level. And that is even moreso when that AC is at RF frequencies. So the RF and AC is there in USB too, just as they knew it would be.

In RF engineering you can use a coil to amplify or to choke a given frequency. There are many elements involved with that including cosmic radiation if you care to measure it that carefully (which has been done). Any loop or coil you make has the potential to amplify that RF, therefore the best and simpliest way to avoid that type of amplification is to avoid coiling or looping. Yes, you might also create a choke, but that is the less likely outcome of the two, as RF tends to reflect back to the originating coil from the ones adjacent to it, thus gaining energy with each cycle which increases the tendency until a saturation point is reached where the coil can carry no more current. Creating a choke takes a more exact sizing and spacing of the coils, and even then it acts as a choke only at one frequency and to a lesser degree with the harmonics of that frequency. And in our usage, there's a car body and wiring and computer signals all adding to the effect. In fact, if you were to have a pure DC current to start with it would not be pure at the load because of those interactions unless you shielded it 100% from that, and shielding cannot be done at that level either.

Even if we power our cam with a battery which isthe only known pure DC power source, you will still find AC on the USB cable. This is because the cam is not a purely resistive load, and it too will influence the current flowing on the USB cable, reflecting some of the current back cyclically as AC or steadily in a standing waveform which will not remain static as the load changes and creating AC in the process. This is all simple stuff to a radio geek like me, but it's far beyond what electrical engineering covers in it's normal sense and usage, and this is an RF game, not a DC one.

Cordially,
Phil
In a USB cable the electrical current always flows in the same direction, therefore it is DC. An alternating current (AC) is when the current alternately flows one way, and then back the other way resulting in zero average flow. A USB cable with a bit of noise on it is still DC, and with a dashcam attached there will never be so much noise that the current flows backwards. As for the noise, a dashcam tends to produce digital switching noise, all frequencies rather than specific frequencies and so any tuned coil in the power cable is never going to be well tuned, so I'm not convinced that coiling the cable is going to make much difference other than to keep most of the radiated noise in a more localised area, hopefully away from the radio antenna. The glovebox may not be a good place to keep the coils since the radio antenna cable quite likely passes behind it and the radio itself is likely to be close by, maybe keep the coils at the other end, in the roof, instead.
 
If the "tuned coil is never going to be well tuned" then why does it matter that "the glovebox may not be a good place to keep the coils" due to it's proximity to radios and associated parts? Does a coiled cable have the potential to cause problems or not? Nigel, you are making my point exactly regards coils being a potential (and easily avoidable) problem by telling folks to keep them out of the glovebox area. You are the one who said it didn't matter- I am the one who said it did, and this certainly looks like you're now saying it does matter too!

If you understood coils and chokes, you'd know that chokes only mitigate effects- they do nothing about the cause of them. You'd also know that they do not stop interference issues upstream, rather they restrict that to upstream while reducing it on the downstream side so an improperly located coil or choke can actually increase interference problems. Further, AC can and does 'ride along' in mainly DC circuits- look up how to detect and measure AC in the presence of DC. You couldn't do that if it weren't there. Further as chokes do nothing at DC to alter downstream current characteristics, why then have many people solved USB interference with the use of chokes, and why do some USB cables come with them from the factory?

The simple fact is that any coiling is likely to cause or increase a radiated interference problem unless you do the math to make it a choke and then locate it properly. Since coiling is unnecessary then the simplest solution it to not do it, and you'll have stopped the potential problem before it could get started.

Phil
 
Discover, that 0906 body (without rear cam cable, with short power cable) RF-emission fully disables satellite receiving (GPS) in my Garmin navigator - at a distance up to 15cm. Also found, that TMC function (by FM radio) is blocked too.
 
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