G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam DVR

[niko]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

You might need a new battery. Check Aliexpress. Its 10usd for 2pcs delivered.

tried with different battery. no changes. without battery, but with USB cable still the same, only flashlight. what else it might be?

Contact seller. They need to forward this issue to engineers for solution, or warranty repair / replacement.

 

[cheap_newbie]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

I bought 4 pieces g1w at saddles, each for 60$ inclusive free shipping to germany, for my family cars
Before i owned 2 cheap fake dvr007...well at night not much was visible...in daylight enough to see what happened without many details :lol: and they cost here in germany 35€...very expensive...well they were my first ones, and advertised as 720p...and i had to start with something... in germany you can unfortunately buy only crap dvr for alot of cash...

I wanna thank you guys here on this forum and specially on this thread, for your testing an information you provided on this camera and saddle, it helped me really a lot...without you i wouldnt have found and bought it.(too huge risk for fake ripoff :mrgreen: )

In my opinion this camera has a good price/worth relation... gt300w was the next one but with 80$ per piece it would be 80$ more for 4 pieces...an you have to pay additional 20% customs on arrival for all...the decision was rather economic rational :roll: The other candidate was gw2, but there was absolutely nearly none information and experiences about it on the web, so i passed and took g1w.
Considering that this camera will be hanging around all year in the car in cold and hot wetter, maybe fall off from the window...and die because of the heat, cold or fall impact...or even because it was produced the chinese way... and to use quarantee you have to send it to china for shipping costs that amount to camera costs....to invest alot was out of question

So now to my experience, on daylight excelent camera, good hd videos. In the night there is some white noise mixed...but still video is good....really superior to the usual crap in germany. Because of the noise in night videos, definitely not comparable to gt300w. But still more than worth its money.

I was also able to flash gt300w firmware on g1w by coincidence, the "201306180-SC-2" one, you can find it in this thread, didnt experiment with the other older or newer ones there...may work too, i dont want to brick it yet :mrgreen:
http://dashcamtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=1778&start
Just rename the firmware file to FW96650A.bin and follow the same procedure as described in that thread for gt300w (put it on your empty sd card direct in the root, and start camera....it will flash itself...quite easy....)
WARNING!!! DO IT ON YOU OWN RISK...YOU COULD BRICK IT IF SOMETHING WENT WRONG, OR IF FIRMWARE IS INCOMPATIBLE
IT SEEMS NO ONE REALLY KNOWS WHICH FIRMWARE MAY BE COMPATIBLE AND WHICH ONE NOT...AND THERE SEEMS TO BE NO FLASHBACK
ONCE YOU FLASH YOU CAN NOT RETURN TO OLD G1W FIRMWARE

So why did i risk to brick it by flashing...well...i was just curious and a bit stupid.. i had a problem with one of my my DVR which i thought was the firmware so i took the risk....sending it back was expensive so that it wouldnt matter if i bricked it
My DVR would freeze and restart, before it restarted the display was getting brighter and then after a second dimmer, this repeated for some time until it restarted, in reality the problem was my USB POWER DAPTER, not the original that came with teh camera but my own one, that should have provided 2A but in reality was cheap crap that could hold these 2A only for like 10 minutes...that was the real cause, but i suspected the firmware and took the risk to flash...
Another problem with original g1w firmware was that other loop recording as 3min loops didnt work properly, sometimes the loop would just stop recording... i didnt know at that time that this problem could be solved by setting the loop time to 3min.... :mrgreen:
And so i flashed....and i didnt regret it until now :lol:

Some functionality of the original g1w firmware will be LOST forever(instant on when power on, some languages translation, setting for working time after power off, etc...unfortunately i didnt write all of them them down and didnt made a comparison) and some will be different(needs 2-3 seconds for turn on and start record when power on, only 3 min loop record works properly, <-but in my experience this was also the case with g1w firmware)...but you will have AWB and a slightly better video quality.
The recording in loop will only work for 3min loop properly, other setting will result in stop of recording when the sd card is full
This forum helped me alot to pinpoint the settings that worked....seems there are other having troubles with different settings...so this is not purely a g1w problem

Well i flashed all of my 4 cameras with the gt300w firmware and i like it better this way

I use 16gb and 32gb class 10 Transcend sd cards...work like a charm since i figured out that only the 3min loop works properly
thats my 2cents... i hope this helps someone like it did me

 

[niko]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

Good informative overview. Thanks.

 

[cheap_newbie]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

Also the problem with the usb port and the usb cable being loose and wobbly in it...
I used different usb cables and the reason the g1w cable is too loose in the camera usb port is partly because of the cable, its design is a bit responsible for that.
I tried different usb cable on g1w and some of them were not loose at all, you could see on those a small difference on the port design between the original g1w cable and those that were not loose. :mrgreen:

 

[cheap_newbie]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

Forgot to mention another thing:
The menu and rec button functionality will be switched, so if you press menu button it will start/stop recording, if you press rec button menu will open/close :lol:
And the digital zoom buttons will not work anymore... in my opinion no one uses them anyway.... :mrgreen:

 

[niko]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

Forgot to mention another thing:
The menu and rec button functionality will be switched, so if you press menu button it will start/stop recording, if you press rec button menu will open/close :lol:
And the digital zoom buttons will not work anymore... in my opinion no one uses them anyway.... :mrgreen:

MENU vs REC swap is typical in original TioTech series latest dash cams compared to other copies.

 

[cheap_newbie]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

yes... i read you own a lot of these gt300w copies :mrgreen:
what about the g2w btw? you wanted to post a more detailed review about it in its thread
i considered getting it but there is nearly no infos from people who bought it on the net...and the aluminium chasis i consider as a weak point beacuse it can heat up from sun and in my opinion is too slim, thus will be givng that heat fully and directly to the electronics inside...

Well, back to topic.... i have another good news for g1w owners
I bought a Samsung microSDXC Pro 64GB Class 10 Card and formatted it with Tool "guiformat.exe" to fat32. And it works just fine with 3min Loops on the g1w
I like the g1w more and more....cheap...reliable(if with correct settings :lol: )and somehow an allround talent
Those thngs are exactly what i wanted to have...scary...

maybe it can even use 128gb sdxc? well those are too expensive just to play around :? so maybe someone other than me has to test this :mrgreen:

Myy others msdhc cards that are working fine with it are:
Transcend Extreme-Speed Micro SDHC 32GB Class 10
Transcend Micro Sdhc 16GB Cl10

 

[niko]

Re: G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam

yes... i read you own a lot of these gt300w copies :mrgreen:
what about the g2w btw? you wanted to post a more detailed review about it in its thread
i considered getting it but there is nearly no infos from people who bought it on the net...and the aluminium chasis i consider as a weak point beacuse it can heat up from sun and in my opinion is too slim, thus will be givng that heat fully and directly to the electronics inside...

Well, back to topic.... i have another good news for g1w owners
I bought a Samsung microSDXC Pro 64GB Class 10 Card and formatted it with Tool "guiformat.exe" to fat32. And it works just fine with 3min Loops on the g1w
I like the g1w more and more....cheap...reliable(if with correct settings :lol: )and somehow an allround talent
Those thngs are exactly what i wanted to have...scary...

maybe it can even use 128gb sdxc? well those are too expensive just to play around :? so maybe someone other than me has to test this :mrgreen:

Myy others msdhc cards that are working fine with it are:
Transcend Extreme-Speed Micro SDHC 32GB Class 10
Transcend Micro Sdhc 16GB Cl10

WIth correct fiddling ( like you doing ), can "suck out" more performance from cheap dash cam and for 60usd its very hard to get something better now.
By specifications G2W is same as G1W with difference of body as you mentioned and also they are claiming 170 degree lens, but in real life I have tested they are about 140-150 degree diagonal

 

[V8Rocks]

I felt a bit brave or bored today, so I decided to secure the CCD sensor with screws. When not secured the lens tend to turn to the right a little bit as it is under tension from the wire ribbon and adhesive is not strong enough to hold it straight.

So I made a few spacers with small cutters out of thin plastic packaging to make sure there is no contact between screw and PCB board. I disassembled it again, this time I have detached the LCD wire ribbon and secured the sensor with 2 screws used for securing PCB to the case. I thought re-attaching LCD ribbon would be hard, but it only took very light push into the connector guides with tweezers and lowering the lever. Later I found additional 2 screws from some HDD enclosure I never used and secured the PCB board with them, in addition to remaining 2 screws. The lens is straight like an arrow now. Amazingly, everything still works. I measured the screws: 1.5 x 5.5 mm.

 

[niko]

I felt a bit brave or bored today, so I decided to secure the CCD sensor with screws. When not secured the lens tend to turn to the right a little bit as it is under tension from the wire ribbon and adhesive is not strong enough to hold it straight.

So I made a few spacers with small cutters out of thin plastic packaging to make sure there is no contact between screw and PCB board. I disassembled it again, this time I have detached the LCD wire ribbon and secured the sensor with 2 screws used for securing PCB to the case. I thought re-attaching LCD ribbon would be hard, but it only took very light push into the connector guides with tweezers and lowering the lever. Later I found additional 2 screws from some HDD enclosure I never used and secured the PCB board with them, in addition to remaining 2 screws. The lens is straight like an arrow now. Amazingly, everything still works. I measured the screws: 1.5 x 5.5 mm.

Good job. I had same problem with one of G1W. Thanks for sharing.

 

[V8Rocks]

My next project - using 64GB SDXC formatted as Fat32 as mentioned by cheap_newbie. If it is working, this dash cam becomes very interesting, because of despite high bit rate, I could store more hours of high quality video due to double the storage is possible with it.

 

[V8Rocks]

My next project - using 64GB SDXC formatted as Fat32 as mentioned by cheap_newbie. If it is working, this dash cam becomes very interesting, because of despite high bit rate, I could store more hours of high quality video due to double the storage is possible with it.

And it worked beautifully in original G1W. Tried 64GB in other dash cams: GS1000 and Mini 0801 - not working.
Yet as usual, G1W delivers jaw dropping video quality with twice the capacity now. Unbelievable!

 

[Belial88]

As I understand, this is exact same internals/hardware and feature as a GT300/350/450/550/680w with 15mb/s+ bitrate? Just with cheaper mounting/housing/build/quality, which don't matter to a DIY'er like me who loves fiddling/modding stuff?

And i hear the battery is bad, but I'm going to hardwire it to my car for motion detect protection, so that doesn't matter (and I can just make my own serial battery pack or w/e).

 

[niko]

As I understand, this is exact same internals/hardware and feature as a GT300/350/450/550/680w with 15mb/s+ bitrate? Just with cheaper mounting/housing/build/quality, which don't matter to a DIY'er like me who loves fiddling/modding stuff?

And i hear the battery is bad, but I'm going to hardwire it to my car for motion detect protection, so that doesn't matter (and I can just make my own serial battery pack or w/e).

Never good idea to hardwire battery operated dash cameras for longer period of use, due to battery working constantly ( even in parking / motion detection mode ) and this way battery gets "into trouble". FOr using dash camera for constant parking / motion detection best is dash cams with capacitors.

 

[Gurkha9]

As I understand, this is exact same internals/hardware and feature as a GT300/350/450/550/680w with 15mb/s+ bitrate? Just with cheaper mounting/housing/build/quality, which don't matter to a DIY'er like me who loves fiddling/modding stuff?

For one the lens is not the same as GT300W/LS300W. It's a 4G glass not a 6G glass.

 

[jokiin]

most generic cameras only use 4G lens, some are 3G + 1P

 

[Belial88]

Interesting, thanks.

most generic cameras only use 4G lens, some are 3G + 1P

What is a generic cam? Is the G1W/G2w conidered generic? What about all the GT clones, are the cheapo 'neutral', 'givoe', 'nonbrands' generics that all use 4g/3g+1 lens?

Never good idea to hardwire battery operated dash cameras for longer period of use, due to battery working constantly ( even in parking / motion detection mode ) and this way battery gets "into trouble". FOr using dash camera for constant parking / motion detection best is dash cams with capacitors.

Wait, so does that mean I shouldn't hard wire a GT300w type cam? Because I plan to run my dash cam hardwired. Isn't hardwired the only way you can get auto on/off + motion detect? because I really dont want to press a button every time I hop in and out of the car, as I spend a few hours every day doing multiple, short drives.

Isn't hard wiring just basically making a some-what permanent car charger? Does that mean I can't run a G1W/G2w (or even a gt300w type) off a car charger, but only battery?

I think i read a thread where people hardwired the GT300w.

 

[Gurkha9]

Of course you can hardwire the cam. That is not the issue. The issue is if you have a cam (with an internal battery) hardwired with an always on source (fuse) and using 'parking mode' or some sort of motion detection. There is a risk in hot climates that it may overheat if left in the sun for example. This is why cams with capacitors are better suited for that specific purpose.
You do not need to hardwire it to have it auto start and stop with ignition, a cig lighter socket will do that as well.

 

[niko]

There two types of hardwire:

1. ACC ( ignition ) for start and stop as Gurkha9 mentioned
2. to constant power ( battery ) for motion detection rec when car parked like you want, but not only hot weather / climate will be effecting dash camera battery. Even if dash cam used in normal climate conditions, having its battery 24h under "pressure" from constant power is never good idea for such small LIPO battery. They are not built for that.
Best choice for any long therm motion detection car park recording is using dash cams with capacitors, not batteries.

 

[Belial88]

Of course you can hardwire the cam. That is not the issue. The issue is if you have a cam (with an internal battery) hardwired with an always on source (fuse) and using 'parking mode' or some sort of motion detection. There is a risk in hot climates that it may overheat if left in the sun for example. This is why cams with capacitors are better suited for that specific purpose.
You do not need to hardwire it to have it auto start and stop with ignition, a cig lighter socket will do that as well.

Well now I'm just confused... so you can hardwire the cam, or you can't? You just say in the same post that you both can and can't. Or do you mean you can hardwire it, as long as you remove the battery (in which case, why would you hardwire it without taking the battery out?).

I know a cig lighter socket will do the auto start/stop/motion, but as I understand, hardwiring is essentially doing a more-permanent version of a cig lighter socket.

There two types of hardwire:

1. ACC ( ignition ) for start and stop as Gurkha9 mentioned
2. to constant power ( battery ) for motion detection rec when car parked like you want, but not only hot weather / climate will be effecting dash camera battery. Even if dash cam used in normal climate conditions, having its battery 24h under "pressure" from constant power is never good idea for such small LIPO battery. They are not built for that.
Best choice for any long therm motion detection car park recording is using dash cams with capacitors, not batteries.

Ah, okay. Thanks. So basically... 1 is just #2 where you remove the battery?