GIT2P 90 firmware mod

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hc_1982

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Hey guys, latest version of mod is now available, please check top post of this topic for more details and download link (versions for 90° /170° included).

Hi @Psychosystema, sensor output dimensions for 1080p60 are 2304x1296, so original firmware downscales it to 2112x1188 during processing and this resize destroys all fine details. So, to avoid it, previous version of mod tried to process it in full resolution, and it improves image quality greatly, but unfortunately, such workload is too much for chip used in camera, and while it can handle it when the same clock speed is used as with EIS, it drop frames occasionally. New firmware mod just crops image to 2112x1188 from 2304x1296 instead of scaling when EIS is off, while still uses full frame data without downscale or crop when EIS is on. But in order to function properly, EIS should be enabled/disable before video recording starts and not changed during video recording.

@montho, please check top post for download link and get latest version of mod. Make sure that version for 170° is flash. Please note, that this version also fixes issues with video file playback on camera.
 

montho

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Sorry for 2 weeks late @hc_1982
I just got out of the house this morning and recorded this
i regret that i don't turn on the Gyro so the footage could have been more stable... (it's not that bad to my eyes but can be a bit annoyed while on bumps or potholes)
......annnddd i will have to wait another week to get out again (because of quarantine)
 

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I got a chance to get out again and recorded this
Gyro on (video has no time stamp)
Gyro off
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Setup:
Camera setting (1080p60fps)
All default except
Bitrate: High ( ~ 67mbs)
Gyro: On\Off
Camera position
Chest mount (camera lens pointing straight forward while sitting upright on the bike) + Non water-proof case or Frame case that comes with the cam
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In short comparison:
Without gyro, you got better overall detail
And with gyro, you got smoother video (less shakiness, more pleasant to eyes but the video gets blurry...sometimes)

I think the modded fw has better sharpness, looks okay in full screen... or at least better than the orginal fw

Jello effect is there but not too much to consider (or i really don't pay attention)
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Thoughts
#1: the highlight is overblown i think (in the video last time i uploaded and the new ones above, the sky gets really bright and at some point it just looks fine)
#2: i don't know why i think the modded fw (v1.7 currently) has less shakiness when recording without gyro ... than the original fw (v1.0 previously)
#3: there are reasons that i put more infos on the setup section above because:
- I saw some say the frame case makes the g2/g2p has less shake or stabilize better
- Different camera positions give different results, the chest mount mostly will have the best result .... i don't have the mount and don't know where to put the cam on the ebike and i'm not sure the footage will be watchable (but i will try when i can). However for the bicycle, mouting on the stem did a better job for me... I can't use the chest mount because of position chaging while on the bike
- The transportation you use may affect too (some bike vibrate more than other..)

>>>Some of my experiences with the g2p and with the modded fw (anybody who wants to try the mod may get a better look). This is not the full version, i will do more test, try different variations and see how it goes.
i really appreciate what you do to this action cam HC_1982, i think someone else will need it or want to try out too.
 
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hc_1982

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Hey @montho, thanks for your great reviews and tests! Please test with brighter light conditions too, when you have chance, so we can see how highlights are handled, as it looks like videos have been recorded almost in dusk. Also, please note, that current mod is based on official fw v1.3. Modded firmware has much lower sharpening level, compared to original one, but it scales/crops frame differently and process image in highest possible for this hardware resolution, so more details are retained, and result looks more natural, as for me.
 

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New videos guys
Setting is the same like last time (with sharpness put to High)

This is the part i go to the more open area, less buildings and houses on the sides...
Well you can clearly see the problem with the sky but this is with the default setting, i don't know if changing the setting can help this
Or maybe i should turn on WDR
 
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Well you can clearly see the problem with the sky but this is with the default setting, i don't know if changing the setting can help this
Hi @montho, please check out new test firmware with updated gamma for normal contrast. Hopefully, it should handle highlights better. Please share results of your tests here.
 

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I got it HC, and please remind that all the videos i shared above is still using this modded firmware GIT2PFW.1.3.pr3.zip
I haven't tried the latest one on the first page because i don't know how to change the other modded firmware, do i just put the fw in the card and installed it like normal fw installation or i have to do it differently
..
And before the fw change i will try to do another video with WDR turn on tomorrow (I just do one earlier but i face the lens to the ground so that one is un-useable)
and after that, what fw do you want me to try, the 2020-04-02 one the first page or the new one above
..
Thanks for your effort again
 
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hc_1982

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@montho, modded firmware update procedure is the same as with stock one. Just download archive, open 90 or 170 directory according to lens FOV installed on camera (I believe it should be 170 in your case), and copy file GIT2PFW.bin into root of SD card, insert card into camera and turn it on. LEDs should start blinking. Wait a minute till it restarts.
Please test one I have posted in the previous post (GIT2PFW.1.3.r1.0.3.zip).
 

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I just recorded this
i'm not sure how you guys think but seems like it not that much different
i just think could it be the focusing may cause this ( i rotated the lens before)
 
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hc_1982

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@montho, lens focusing is not related to this issue. I guess you can try different settings for Contrast (Low/High) or set EV to -1/3, to find out which works best for you, and I will check what can be done here.
 

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I understand, i will working on the setting to see if it can help the footage

........Thoughts.......................................................................................................... (still update...)
+) I think with the default setting, ev and contrast is default for example the action cam did good in cloudy days ( if the cam doesn't capture too much sun light, the sky will be visible or less glow-y/bloomy)
+) Video/Picture can be watch directly on the action cam now (thanks HC)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
I captured from the video so you can see the differences between fws

original fw 1.0 (foggy day) 1080p60 - gyro on -
original fw 1.0 (sunny day) 1080p60 - gyro on -
modded fw 1.3 1080p60 - gyro on - bitrate high
Sorry guys, i can't upload the pictures to see directly here (file size ~ 5mb)

+) For the quality, the modded looks better than the original (or i mean it looks less worse than the original, especially in full-screen) the closer you zoom in the pic, the more of the worse part is being revealed...
+) I think the problem with the original fw is the contrast (even with lowest setting) is a bit too much, the modded fw is actually more pleasant to eyes... i like the color of the modded one more.
all of the points above may have been said in the earlier posts
 
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Thanks @montho for your feedback! Also, please note, that EIS should work better, as previously you have used mod for 90 FOV camera version.
Please test another mod update, and let me know if you can see any improvements. Make sure, that mod fw archive has name GIT2PFW.1.3.r1.0.3.t3.zip, as I have re-uploaded correct version. Also, please check if recorded video looks sharper now.
 
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montho

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Good news from the fw GIT2PFW.1.3.r1.0.3.t3.zip
link utube:
+) The highlight has improved, the sky is visible now
+) I can tell much about the gyro because i tighten the strap more recently so the chest mount won't bounce more or it will shakes less than usual and also i was riding a hybrid bike (with 700x32mm tyre) so that may affect too....
.
.
.
setting(chest mount + frame case)
1080p60 - all default except with Gyro On
i forgot to turn the bitrate and sharpness upp
 
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hc_1982

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@montho, great! As for me, EIS seems to be better now, at least I don't see unnatural image warping and wobbling I have noticed in your previous records and it seems to be smoother now, but of course stable mount improves it a lot too. Highlights seems to be ok now, although in some high contrast scenes it might be blown out still, but I guess, it is inevitable. The downside of new gamma curve used is too harsh contrast and probably higher level of noise, according to my tests, so I will take a look, what can be done with it. Also, focus of your lens seems to be off a bit, but it might be just youtube compression or image blur from EIS. Proper lens focusing is quite tricky and should be done very precisely, as turning lens several degrees makes huge difference.
 

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I agree, the jello effect may have been disappeared or non exist in all of the new videos (some of the videos i don't upload not having any jello)
About the video quality, i think it could be the bitrate and sharpness is still in default(normal) but i will record another video tomorrow to see if it can get any better
And do you think changing a better lens can improve the focusing maybe
 
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And do you think changing a better lens can improve the focusing maybe
I guess, stock lens should be sharp enough, but it should be focused very carefully. Different lens could be sharper, but EIS won't work with it properly. I think best results could be obtained when focused in following way:
1. Place focusing target in 1.5-2 meters.
2. Select 1296p as video resolution, and set zoom to x1.8 or x2.2, sharpness set to Normal.
3. Connect TV or PC display via micro HDMI to camera.
4. Turn lens slowly till you find best position, and check not only center but near left and right edges too, also objects in ~1 meter should still be more or less focused too.
You will need lot of light during focus tuning to make sure noise reduction as low as possible. Also, you can check focus with photos taken in daylight with distant and close objects in frame.
 

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Long ride in open area
setting: all default except (chest mount + frame case)
sharpness: high
bitrate: high
gyro: on

I attached all the clips together, raised up the highlight a bit and rendered it with Davinci Resolve (i don't know what is wrong with the audio but i could be the render setting)
the gyro did good job in most of the ride, literally no jello to my eyes
the light is changing a little bit quickly so i will do a few more test to see what setting wil suit outdoor video more (maybe using ISO 400-800 next time)
 
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