Hardwire kit setup

Ok.

And where I should connect the hardwire if I want the camera ON just when the engine is started? Or, at least, when I turn the key in the ignition position?
I've attached 2 photos with my fuse panel.

SPpKFaR.jpg


Edu4KGs.jpg
 
Choose a non critical fuse. Use power windows, seats, moonroof...etc. Don't use airbag, wipers, headlights...etc.
 
Doesen't matter if I plug the hardwire into a 30A slot let's say (of course, for the dashcam the fuse will be 5A)?
 
Just to add to the other threads...your vehicle uses both ATO (horizontal) and Mini type (vertical) fuses. You'll have to match it up with the proper fuse. If you purchased an ATO tap, I think you may be able to use the 15 amp stereo fuse, this may give you a RAP feed as a bonus. If you purchased a Mini type fuse tap, It looks like your rear electric window fuse space is not being used, but has contacts for a fuse. I would see if there is 12V power going to that space when the vehicle is running (or on ACC).

Of course, I'm assuming that you're looking to have the camera powered only when the car is on.
 
I've bought both types (about 3 weeks ago from ebay). Now I am just waiting for them to come. I don't have rear electric windows, but front windows are electric and I can use them when I put the key on accesories.

Also, I don't have electric seat heating, only the wiring is done. Maybe there is power only when the engine is ON, like demisting for mirrors and rear windshield.

I don't know atm which is the best option.
 
There is no way to know other than testing I'm afraid. fuse by fuse.

In my car - Volvo S80 - I found that almost everything in the fusebox under the glove compartment had power always on. Even the fuel pump, electric windows, infotainment system. I guess most units are activated through some kind of Canbus arrangement in most reasonably modern cars.

I found one fuse circuit however that only is powered when the engine is on and it went to the throttle and electric seat heating. You have to test, there is no other way unless you happen to know.
 
I would put a multimeter to the rear power window fuse spot, I think this is a good place to start. If it works as you need it, no need to look further.

If you don't have a multimeter, just wait for your fuse taps, there is no harm in doing it that way, you can't ruin the camera trying different fusible locations. But try all the locations I talked about first, it's a good start and it'll save you fuse pulling time.
 
Back
Top