Hardwiring a SG9665GC Help!

Warning: That appears to be for some other brand, and also appears to be passing along the full 12 volts, instead of having a transformer to bring it down to 5v. If you put 12v into it, it will likely burn out instantly.

There are several kits also out there to tie in direct, complete with transformer. (freeing up the original cable) See earlier in this thread.

One option is to keep what came with the kit, and just install a hidden power port port under the dash. Perhaps something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00G8WLW2YI am doing something similar to use the transformer that came with it, and can easily move the whole thing to another car in the future. (without cutting the wires on the original)

Another option is to install a "y" splitter in your power port, which turns it in to two power ports. Then you can plug in the dash cam and one other device, like a phone charger.
 
Andris G said:
Hi.

I just bought my Street Guardian and would like to hard wire it so would this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112038359242 be any good?

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

That one may work for some time, but there are no guarantee on how it may affect performance and stability of SG9665GC.

We have CellPower hardwiring which is approved to use with Street Guardian SG9665GC dashcamera.

Beware of cheaper analogues !

"CELL POWER" comes from developer of "Street Guardian"

Technical specs.
  • 12V to 5V MiniUSB Power Converter
  • 11.6V / 23.2V Low Voltage Cut-Off. ( Suitable for brand new car batteries only )
  • Tap into your car's fuse box for hard wired power.
  • You can wire the CELL POWER miniUSB BDP hard wire kit to a "Switched" Accessory fuse power circuit and it will turn on/off with the car engine.
  • You can also wire it to "Non-Switched" Battery fuse power circuit and it will supply power 24/7 until Battery Discharge Prevention kicks in and shuts off the camera.
  • Note: you need to buy an add-a-fuse pig tail to connect this, available HERE
  • Total Length = 13 feet / (4 meters)
  • miniUSB side = 8 feet / (2.5 meters)
  • fuse panel side wire = 5ft (1.5 meters) [red/black wires are 16 AWG
 
niko said:
That one may work for some time, but there are no guarantee on how it may affect performance and stability of SG9665GC.

We have CellPower hardwiring which is approved to use with Street Guardian SG9665GC dashcamera.

Beware of cheaper analogues !

"CELL POWER" comes from developer of "Street Guardian"

Technical specs.
  • 12V to 5V MiniUSB Power Converter
  • 11.6V / 23.2V Low Voltage Cut-Off. ( Suitable for brand new car batteries only )
  • Tap into your car's fuse box for hard wired power.
  • You can wire the CELL POWER miniUSB BDP hard wire kit to a "Switched" Accessory fuse power circuit and it will turn on/off with the car engine.
  • You can also wire it to "Non-Switched" Battery fuse power circuit and it will supply power 24/7 until Battery Discharge Prevention kicks in and shuts off the camera.
  • Note: you need to buy an add-a-fuse pig tail to connect this, available HERE
  • Total Length = 13 feet / (4 meters)
  • miniUSB side = 8 feet / (2.5 meters)
  • fuse panel side wire = 5ft (1.5 meters) [red/black wires are 16 AWG
Click to expand...
Hi.
I bought Cell Power which is cheaper than Vico product by miles but your link for piggyback fuse isn't working. All of these on Ebay and Amazon are side ones and not straight....
 
Rhody401 said:
Warning: That appears to be for some other brand, and also appears to be passing along the full 12 volts, instead of having a transformer to bring it down to 5v. If you put 12v into it, it will likely burn out instantly.

There are several kits also out there to tie in direct, complete with transformer. (freeing up the original cable) See earlier in this thread.

One option is to keep what came with the kit, and just install a hidden power port port under the dash. Perhaps something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00G8WLW2YI am doing something similar to use the transformer that came with it, and can easily move the whole thing to another car in the future. (without cutting the wires on the original)

Another option is to install a "y" splitter in your power port, which turns it in to two power ports. Then you can plug in the dash cam and one other device, like a phone charger.
Click to expand...
I will use Cell Power one and see how it works as I would like to have parking mode enabled. I paid for it so why not use it:)
 
Oh boy. Somebody please tell me that I don't have to admit to my wife that I've royally screwed up!

Here's the story: I want to wire my Street Guardian to an always-on power source. Being a fundamentally cheap bugger, I found what I thought was the right kit on eBay - a unit at least superficially like this one
https://shop.pier28.com/media/catal...525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/fixedcpusb01-1.jpg

AFTER buying it I realized that the writing on it was some Asian language (that I don't understand), but it LOOKS like it's the right thing, so I proceeded. I looped the leads from the box around the prongs of the fuse for the door locks... and nothing happened. I tried it again with the fuse for the dome light, and still got no result. Some of the posts I've rread here have given me the idea to move the ground wire from the fuse to a part of the chassis.

Will that work? Does anyone have any knowledge or opinions on this oriental unit I bought? Is there a better way I should be doing this? Could anyone else really go for a beer right about now?

Thanks for any and all advice!
 
T. B-W said:
Oh boy. Somebody please tell me that I don't have to admit to my wife that I've royally screwed up!

Here's the story: I want to wire my Street Guardian to an always-on power source. Being a fundamentally cheap bugger, I found what I thought was the right kit on eBay - a unit at least superficially like this one
https://shop.pier28.com/media/catal...525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/fixedcpusb01-1.jpg

AFTER buying it I realized that the writing on it was some Asian language (that I don't understand), but it LOOKS like it's the right thing, so I proceeded. I looped the leads from the box around the prongs of the fuse for the door locks... and nothing happened. I tried it again with the fuse for the dome light, and still got no result. Some of the posts I've rread here have given me the idea to move the ground wire from the fuse to a part of the chassis.

Will that work? Does anyone have any knowledge or opinions on this oriental unit I bought? Is there a better way I should be doing this? Could anyone else really go for a beer right about now?

Thanks for any and all advice!
Click to expand...
YOU are in good hands with Pier28 just reach out to them. ur harness may need to be exchanged
 
That looks like the real maccoy, it even says pier28 in the image path. (the vendor for Street Guardian USA)

The red wire goes to 12v positive, such as what you'd find in the fuse box.

The black wire goes to ground/negative, such as the metal chasis of the car.
 
T. B-W said:
Oh boy. Somebody please tell me that I don't have to admit to my wife that I've royally screwed up!

Here's the story: I want to wire my Street Guardian to an always-on power source. Being a fundamentally cheap bugger, I found what I thought was the right kit on eBay - a unit at least superficially like this one
https://shop.pier28.com/media/catal...525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/i/fixedcpusb01-1.jpg

AFTER buying it I realized that the writing on it was some Asian language (that I don't understand), but it LOOKS like it's the right thing, so I proceeded. I looped the leads from the box around the prongs of the fuse for the door locks... and nothing happened. I tried it again with the fuse for the dome light, and still got no result. Some of the posts I've rread here have given me the idea to move the ground wire from the fuse to a part of the chassis.

Will that work? Does anyone have any knowledge or opinions on this oriental unit I bought? Is there a better way I should be doing this? Could anyone else really go for a beer right about now?

Thanks for any and all advice!
Click to expand...

I got actual CellPower cable and not something similar looking:) and connected black wire to the chassis of a car and red to central locking fuse - camera is still recording after 2 days not driving my car on 11 years old battery:) Thanks to Niko....cheers:)
Maybe you have heard that saying that cheap buggers pay twice.....
Second time might be very expensive in some cases.

BTW Fuses usually are put in live wires not ground......

Good luck and have fun.
 
Thank you everyone! I'll take another look at the power output from this box (I think it said 2.5V, but at a guess I'd say that doesn't seem right), and connect the ground to... well, to something grounded. If that doesn't work, I'll go to my last resort: go out and buy the right product.

Thanks again for the advice.

PS- Shhhh! My wife is coming....
 
T. B-W said:
I looped the leads from the box around the prongs of the fuse for the door locks... and nothing happened. I tried it again with the fuse for the dome light, and still got no result.
Click to expand...
from what you say you put the red and black on one prong each of the fuse?? in parallel to the fuse? that aint gonna work at all, its a dead short there.
 
wozzzzza said:
from what you say you put the red and black on one prong each of the fuse?? in parallel to the fuse? that aint gonna work at all, its a dead short there.
Click to expand...
And your cheap alternative might be buggered now...
 
na it just wouldn't work. red to fuse black to chassis
 
OK: after many attempts, I can sum up my hardwiring attempts as follows: AAAARRRGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
(Give or take an exclamation point.)

So here's my most pressing 2 questions for right now:
1- Does anyone have any ideas where I can get the appropriate wiring harness for the least cost? (For that matter, can I use a harness originally meant for a totally different dashcam?)
and
2- What exactly should I be attaching the live wire to? I had thought that I could simply wrap it around a fuse prong and replace the fuse, but I keep seeing something about attaching it to the ACC. I've figured out that that means "accessory", but where the hell do I find it? There's nothing labelled like that in the fuse box... or do I even want to use that, if I'm going for an always-on power source?

Basically, it boils down to this: HHEEEELLPPPPPPP!!!! Please. Thanks.
 
the fuses won't be labeled ACC but you want a fuse which is only active when the accessories are on, radio, cig socket, power windows etc, that sort of thing

don't wrap cables around a fuse leg, too easy for that to go wrong, use a proper fuse tap

what car do you have, picture of your fuse box cover might help if you don't know what to look for

what power supply are you using?
 
it may be cheaper to goto auto electrician to get it done properly incase you blow ya car up or melt a wire somewhere.
 
If DIY is too much better to visit your local car audio install shop which can handle basic fuse tap installations. The CPUSB01 is the recommended hard wire kit.
 
Thank you all VERY much. I'd rather do this myself instead of taking it in somewhere; I know this may sound kind of pathetic, but I'm sick of seeing things that everyone else considers DIY projects, but which I for some reason can't handle. I really want to do this myself (except then I read things like "use a proper fuse tap" and "what power supply are you using", and the most intelligent response I can give is "Ummmmmmm... Huh?". It's a tad disheartening to say the least).

Anyways, it's a 2003 Pontiac Vibe (also known as a 2003 Blech), but I don't have a picture of the fuse box cover. I figured I'd connect this thing to the power door locks so the car's acc won't even need to be on.

As to what power source I'm using... um, the car battery? I'm afraid I don't really understand the question; sorry.
 
Something like the cigarette lighter fuse. On some cars it is always live, and on others it is only live when the ignition is on....easy to tell, turn the engine off and see if the cigarette lighter works! However, to make it even more confusing is that some cars keep the accessory things (cigarette lighter) alive for a set period of time after ignition switched off!!! My car (2012 BMW X1) turns it off as soon as the ignition is turned off. Did you say you wanted it to be on all the time? Need to find a circuit that is always live, so central locking might do the job, I dont know.

Dont feel bad about not knowing stuff....everyone has to start from the beginning, and you will learn as you go along. I am by no means an expert in car electrics (just about a novice) and I have hard wired mine in). A lot of it is about common sense and confidence...and research! Google is your friend!
 
If you Google your car make/model/year you can find plenty of links to pictures of your (interior) fuse panel - such as this http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/2011-2015-Hyundai-Accent-Electrical-Fuse-Replacement-Guide/

You want to use the fuse/circuit for the "cigarette lighter".

You would remove the fuse and insert one of these adapters (mini-fuse) https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00K17A2E6 .

Then you reinstall the "cigarette light fuse" into the adapter. That restores the power to the cigarette lighter using the same fuse. The adapter has a second set of slots for another fuse and the wire pig-tail you will attach to for power to your dash cam. The second fuse is sized to protect the wiring for the dash cam (usually a 5A will be correct).

The hard part is fining a good "ground" to attach the dash cam's ground wire to. Usually you can find a screw in the area of the fuse box that is screwed into metal.
To be sure that screw is a good ground, you would attach your 12v test light clamp to the screw and then see if the test light "lights up" when you touch it to one of the fuses that has power to it (might need to have key on to have power to fuses).
test light_.jpg


I hope this helps (and I did not overly simplify it). Good luck.
 
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