How to configure Viofo cam for minimum current draw when parked?

[Vioq]

I've just hardwired two viofos in my car so they'd always be on.
A119 v2 & a119s
in order driving and parking.

How does the camera know when to switch between parking mode and regular recording mode?
Is it using GPS?
Is there another way that doesn't rely on GPS?

What do you think the best settings would be for least amount of current draw?

 

[5Cowbells]

How does the camera know when to switch between parking mode and regular recording mode?
Is it using GPS?

The A119 and A119S do not currently use GPS in Parking Mode. With Parking Mode enabled (not OFF), Parking Mode will initiate a Standby Mode (not recording) if no motion is sensed in the FOV (motion detection) and no camera movement (car movement) is sensed by the G-sensor, for about 90 seconds. Then when the camera senses motion in the FOV, it will switch to Time-lapse recording. If again the camera senses no motion in the FOV for 90 seconds, the camera will swtich back to Standby Mode (not recording) and so on. If camera movement (as in a bump to the car or re-entering the car) is detected by the G-sensor at any time during Standby Mode or Time-lapse recording, the camera will switch back to Normal full resolution recording as set in the Resolution menu setting. To re-initiate the Standby/time-lapse sequence, the original conditions of no motion in the FOV and no camera movement for 90 seconds must again be met.

What do you think the best settings would be for least amount of current draw?

Parking mode does not reduce power consumption significantly. Only Standby mode (not recording) gives any significant savings in power consumption. No significant savings at any fps when Time-lapse recording.

 

[Vioq]

Thanks. So to my understanding, even if you enable Parking Mode you have to enable motion detection aswell, otherwise it wont record in Parking mode? And even if you enable motion detection on top of parking mode, the camera could still not record some footage if no motion is detected.
Is there no way to force the camera to record continuously while in park?

 

[SawMaster]

You can record continuously, however that has some attached problems. Warranty voids as they recommend you not do this. Cam will run hotter which in the worst summer heats might kill the cam- it will probably shorten it's life. Without a BDP you may kill the car battery. Card wear will be greater. This holds true for every dashcam.

Also know that one member here uses this cam for home security in time-lapse mode. He recently reported that the card needs more frequent formatting to prevent lost or corrupt files. Not a big issue but one to be aware of.

I have run an original Mobius w/caps, B1W, WR-1,and G1W/S continuously in the high summer heat here with no problems. It does seem to adversely affect cheaper cams. If I had one of these I'd try it as I think it can handle it, but if you try it you are on your own, as I am not recommending it.

I do push some limits with dashcams such as this and my not using BDP, which I noticed from earlier times were things which everyone said could not be done. It seemed that the opinion was because nobody had actually tried it, so being the bold one I took the risks and discovered otherwise. No continuous recording and always using a BDP is still the best way, but not the only way so long as you accept the risks you take.

Phil

 

[5Cowbells]

Thanks. So to my understanding, even if you enable Parking Mode you have to enable motion detection aswell, otherwise it wont record in Parking mode? And even if you enable motion detection on top of parking mode, the camera could still not record some footage if no motion is detected.
Is there no way to force the camera to record continuously while in park?

Parking Mode uses motion detection and G-sensor as sensors to determine what record mode (Standby, Time-lapse, or Normal) to use at any given moment. In fact, the Motion Detection and Time-Lapse Recording menu settings can not be enabled while Parking Mode is enabled. Parking Mode operates autonomously while driving or parked, i.e., without need for operator intervention, a big pro. It has its cons too. Some like it and some don't.

You can't force Parking Mode to initiate the Standby/Time-lapse recording sub-modes in a practical manner during everyday operation. In a test scenario say at home, you can do it by covering the lens on the A119 for 90 seconds or so, but for me this didn't work for the A119S. For the A119S, I just had to create a static scene with some features and contrast (even if dimly lit) for the FOV and keep the camera still for 90 seconds or so.

You can force continuous Normal Recording by setting Parking Mode, Time-Lapse, and Motion Detection menu settings to OFF (it is the normal way of recording when Parking Mode is not used). All you need to do is keep the camera powered continuously, not necessarily a simple task in a car.

With Parking Mode set to OFF, you can force continuous Time-Lapse Recording by setting the Time-lapse Recording menu selection to something other than OFF. But this requires you to have to reset the Time-Lapse menu setting every time you want to turn it ON or OFF, for example to switch to Normal recording when driving. Again, you need to keep the camera powered if the ignition is OFF.

With Parking Mode set to OFF, the Time-Lapse Recording and Motion Detection menu settings can be enabled simultaneously. In this case, the camera records Time-lapse whenever motion in the FOV triggers the camera to record. No motion sensed in the FOV for 60 seconds stops recording. {Edit: Time-lapse recording will resume when motion is again detected in the camera FOV.}

 

[ShruteFarms]

I tested with a USB power meter and have two VIOFO A119S dash cams. At constant 1080P 60 FPS each dash cam fluctuates between .35 - .60 Amps. At 1080P 30 FPS, it draws between .24-.40 Amps. I have parking mode enabled on both cameras and confirm that parking mode FPS doesn't make much difference in power draw. Whether you use 1 FPS, 5 FPS, or 15 FPS time-lapse it didn't seem to make a significant impact to current draw. The biggest determinant to power consumption is 30 FPS vs 60 FPS -- more processing, more writes to the card, etc.