I wouldn't suggest doing THT or SMD electronic component soldering with a butane torch. I have one on my workbench for heating up whole ground planes with shielded or heat-sinked components I need to desolder but I still typically use my hot air station or a hot air gun (paint stripper) instead. Come to think of it, I didn't use it the last time I removed an RF Modulator and power box from a Nintendo NES-001 (very recently) and I'm pretty sure I can't recall ever actually using it as intended.I had this problem happen to my F750. I opened it up and found the battery. Ordered a new battery and attempted to solder it myself. I only have a butane soldering gun and was able to desolder the old battery. When I attempted to solder in the new battery to the circuit board, I had trouble due to the tight tolerance between the two terminals. The solder actually melted on both of the battery terminals. I gave up and decided to just buy a new camera. How on earth do you guys solder the battery onto the circuit board with success? Seems pretty difficult without the proper soldering gun.
You did it the right way. Fresh solder contains flux which removes surface oxydation, promotes solder adhesion, and changes the surface tension of molten solder in a way that resists bridging. Flux typically burns off and is inactivated after a few seconds so they put it inside most solder to introduce fresh flux as you add it ("flux core solder"). Without doing this you will likely have a "cold solder joint," which can fail prematurely or cause other issues (no continuity, high resistance, cracking/joint failure, temperature sensitivity, intermittent failures, etc).some sweating and a lot of swearing was involved, but it's done.
it was difficult to use the existing solder to "glue" the new battery in place, so i had to use a bit of new solder.
was afraid i would solder the plus & minus together, but that didn't happen (sheer luck though !)
the soldering looks very amateurish, but the camera & gps are working again as intended.
Still, it was a BIG gamble as i usually f*ck these things up.
would not really recommend it to anyone who's not handy...
thanks for all the input!
Does someone have pics of the battery into the cam?
I have same issue after 2.5y :-(
Enviado desde mi MI 9 mediante Tapatalk
Ok... an update. I’ve replaced the $8 button battery and the camera is operational again. I’ve sent an email to Thinkware customer support requesting a replacement dual camera system that won’t fail due to a cheap on board battery, particular when the camera is supported by a $400 Cellink battery.I ... am.... not.... happy about this!
My wife just came home tonight after being stopped by some sketchy guy on a side road in an unmarked car, claiming to be a police officer. She insisted on driving on and when she arrived home, I went to check the front/rear dash cam videos.... and oh yeah, the button battery is out, video time stamps are screwed up and I have no hope of locating the encounter if it’s even still there!
And... hey... I have the $400 cell link addon battery as well, but despite all that this silly button battery k-o’d my $800 camera/battery system!
Thinkware, you’ve let us down in significant ways! What were your designers thinking! What if my wife had NOT come home? I can only imagine that experience and then checking that camera for nonexistant videos.
Ordered via Blackboxmycar
F770-2ch + Cellink
Check it out for yourself
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