Installation of SG9667DC2K into 2024 Honda CR-V Hybrid Sport Touring

[NARider]

After running the SG9663DCPRO without problems for 3 years in our 2016 CR-V we decided to trade in the car and buy a new 2024 CR-V Hybrid Sport Touring. I left the old cam in place for the next owner and bought a SG9667DC2K for the 2024. Installation was similar to what I documented earlier but this time the front camera went on the right side of the center HondaSense camera cluster, the GPS is mounted in the upper right corner of the windshield, the cables went down the A pillar on the passenger side behind the airbag, the hardwire power cable went behind the structures under the dash across to the fusebox, and the cable to the rear cam travelled down the passenger side of the vehicle. To get the rear cam cable through the rubber wiring tube that goes between the car body and the tailgate frame I taped it to a very long cable/zip tie and sprayed some CRC 2-26 Multi-Purpose Spray Lubricant (which is plastic- safe and non-conducting) into the wiring tube. The lube made it much easier to pull the cable through. These are the fuses I used with the SG hardwire kit Add-A-Fuses (the CR-V requires the Mini Low Profile fuse version):
Battery: Fuse 21, Cargo Accessory Socket (always on), 20A
Accessory: Fuse 46, [energized but empty], switches on/off when car is turned on/off

Note that different fuses in the fusebox have the hot contact on different sides of the fuse, identified with a testing probe. Fuse 21 and Fuse 46 had the hot contact on opposite sides, so the two Add-A-Fuses were installed in opposite directions. The outside contact (farthest from the wire) of the Add-A-Fuse was installed on the 'hot' side of each fuse location. This allows power to run through the dash cam fuse as well as the original fuse that is installed in the Add-A-Fuse. If you don't install it correctly the power will bypass the fuse, which would result in not having a fuse in the circuit.

 

[rcg530]

The outside contact (farthest from the wire) of the Add-A-Fuse was installed on the 'hot' side of each fuse location. This allows power to run through the dash cam fuse as well as the original fuse that is installed in the Add-A-Fuse. If you don't install it correctly the power will bypass the fuse, which would result in not having a fuse in the circuit.

The orientation of the Add-A-Fuse will route power differently through the Add-A-Fuse, but power is always routed through a fuse. When the power side of the fuse box fuse socket has the left leg of the Add-A-Fuse plugged into it, it directly routes power to each fuse socket in the Add-A-Fuse. The load side of the circuit (the other side of the fuse box fuse socket and the wire from the Add-A-Fuse) will only get power if the fuse in each Add-A-Fuse fuse socket has a good fuse in it. This method of power routing is "in parallel".

When the power side of the fuse box fuse socket has the right leg of the Add-A-Fuse plugged into it, that will first route power through the lower fuse of the Add-A-Fuse and then to the fuse box fuse socket's load and to the non-wire end of the upper Add-A-Fuse fuse socket. The power then goes through the upper fuse to the load connected to the wire of the Add-A-Fuse. This routing of power is "in series" power routing.

Power always goes through a fuse in either configuration, but the "in series" configuration passes the load for both the original circuit and the new load being added by the Add-A-Fuse through the bottom fuse of the Add-A-Fuse first.

This is where this discussion gets a bit into an almost religious debate about what is correct/best/safest.

The "in series" power routing approach is "the safest" because it makes sure the both power loads are well within the capabilities of the original circuit and fuse amp rating. The "in parallel" power routing approach can be safely used as long the new load being added by the use of the Add-A-Fuse is not beyond the capabilities of the original circuit (wiring). I tend to install my Add-A-Fuse devices with power routed using the "in parallel" method, but I make sure the new fuse (new load) is only a small percentage of the original circuit amp load (usually 10% or less of the original load - fuse amp rating). This way if the original circuit's fuse blows (the one now in the lower fuse socket of the Add-A-Fuse) for reasons related to the original circuit's load having a problem, it doesn't stop the new device from receiving power.

A dash camera has a 12-volt system amp load in the 0.1 to 1 amp range (with most being in the 0.1 to 0.5 amp range). I usually find a candidate fuse box fuse socket with an amp rating of 10A or higher to use for the Add-A-Fuse since that will leave about 1 amp of spare capacity in the original circuit to allow for the new amp load for the new device/ dash camera.

 

[NARider]

Excellent clarification, thanks! My dash cam came with a 5 A fuse on the Battery wire and I installed it on a 20 A fuse (#21, in parallel, per your explanation) so I feel good about that. I connected my Accessory wire with a 5 A fuse in it to #46 that didn't have a fuse in it so I'm also OK with that. Again, thanks for the detailed explanation of how the Add-A-Fuse functions.

 

[rcg530]

One thing I forgot to mention, is when the fuse box fuse socket did not have a fuse in it and you use that fuse box fuse socket for the Add-A-Fuse, make sure you do not place a fuse in the bottom fuse socket of the Add-A-Fuse. That fuse box fuse socket may be empty in your vehicle, but that same fuse box might be used in a large number of models from that same manufacturer. If you add a fuse to the bottom fuse socket of the Add-A-Fuse when the fuse box fuse socket did not have originally have a fuse in it, the internal wiring of the fuse box could potentially send power to previously unpowered circuit(s) that could result in strange behavior or phantom power drains.

 

[randy_c]

After running the SG9663DCPRO without problems for 3 years in our 2016 CR-V we decided to trade in the car and buy a new 2024 CR-V Hybrid Sport Touring. I left the old cam in place for the next owner and bought a SG9667DC2K for the 2024. Installation was similar to what I documented earlier but this time the front camera went on the right side of the center HondaSense camera cluster, the GPS is mounted in the upper right corner of the windshield, the cables went down the A pillar on the passenger side behind the airbag, the hardwire power cable went behind the structures under the dash across to the fusebox, and the cable to the rear cam travelled down the passenger side of the vehicle. To get the rear cam cable through the rubber wiring tube that goes between the car body and the tailgate frame I taped it to a very long cable/zip tie and sprayed some CRC 2-26 Multi-Purpose Spray Lubricant (which is plastic- safe and non-conducting) into the wiring tube. The lube made it much easier to pull the cable through. These are the fuses I used with the SG hardwire kit Add-A-Fuses (the CR-V requires the Mini Low Profile fuse version):
Battery: Fuse 21, Cargo Accessory Socket (always on), 20A
Accessory: Fuse 46, [energized but empty], switches on/off when car is turned on/off

Note that different fuses in the fusebox have the hot contact on different sides of the fuse, identified with a testing probe. Fuse 21 and Fuse 46 had the hot contact on opposite sides, so the two Add-A-Fuses were installed in opposite directions. The outside contact (farthest from the wire) of the Add-A-Fuse was installed on the 'hot' side of each fuse location. This allows power to run through the dash cam fuse as well as the original fuse that is installed in the Add-A-Fuse. If you don't install it correctly the power will bypass the fuse, which would result in not having a fuse in the circuit.

where do you buy the new clip for the pillar trim?

 

[NARider]

Video showing how to remove A pillar trim
Note that he just slides the trim off the upper clip but I found I had to push it with a long screwdriver to get it to slide down and off the trim. If you lose the friction-fit anchor or you break the upper clip anchor (which may happen if you aren't careful), then you will need to contact your Honda dealer to buy new ones. I was able to remove the upper clip without breaking it.

On my 2024 Hybrid Sport Tourting there is a small speaker mounted in the A-pillar trim at the bottom, so there is only one ‘push-in’ friction fit anchor (earlier CR-V models had two of these friction anchors). The top anchor is different and should be released first. Pull the top of the trim until it comes partially loose from the pillar, but it will still be attached. The top anchor is made of two parts, one attached the metal car body and one attached to the plastic trim. There is a sliding ‘leash’ connecting the two parts that allows the trim to come loose without coming completely free. Use a long screwdriver to carefully push the part mounted in the trim down toward the dash as you pull the trim up slightly. The anchor should slide out and come free from the trim.

Use a plastic trim removal tool to reach under the trim panel about half-way to the dash to release the single friction-fit anchor. Press it against the anchor and twist the tool to pry the trim/anchor away from the steel wall. The anchor may come free from the steel wall (better) or it might come free from the trim panel (don’t let it fall down into the dash!). Pull the trim up and away from the A-pillar. Pull the trim away from the dash to disengage the three ‘fingers’ on the bottom of the trim from the dash.

Once the trim is free, remove the top anchor (‘upper clip’) from the wall by pressing in on the two spring-loaded wings that lock the anchor to the steel wall. The two black wings on the top and bottom are spring-loaded and have to be pressed toward each other enough for their anchor lugs to clear the edges of the hole in the metal wall of the pillar. Once it’s out snap the two parts of the anchor back together and slide it back into the A pillar trim so it won’t get lost.

 

[randy_c]

Video showing how to remove A pillar trim
Note that he just slides the trim off the upper clip but I found I had to push it with a long screwdriver to get it to slide down and off the trim. If you lose the friction-fit anchor or you break the upper clip anchor (which may happen if you aren't careful), then you will need to contact your Honda dealer to buy new ones. I was able to remove the upper clip without breaking it.

On my 2024 Hybrid Sport Tourting there is a small speaker mounted in the A-pillar trim at the bottom, so there is only one ‘push-in’ friction fit anchor (earlier CR-V models had two of these friction anchors). The top anchor is different and should be released first. Pull the top of the trim until it comes partially loose from the pillar, but it will still be attached. The top anchor is made of two parts, one attached the metal car body and one attached to the plastic trim. There is a sliding ‘leash’ connecting the two parts that allows the trim to come loose without coming completely free. Use a long screwdriver to carefully push the part mounted in the trim down toward the dash as you pull the trim up slightly. The anchor should slide out and come free from the trim.

Use a plastic trim removal tool to reach under the trim panel about half-way to the dash to release the single friction-fit anchor. Press it against the anchor and twist the tool to pry the trim/anchor away from the steel wall. The anchor may come free from the steel wall (better) or it might come free from the trim panel (don’t let it fall down into the dash!). Pull the trim up and away from the A-pillar. Pull the trim away from the dash to disengage the three ‘fingers’ on the bottom of the trim from the dash.

Once the trim is free, remove the top anchor (‘upper clip’) from the wall by pressing in on the two spring-loaded wings that lock the anchor to the steel wall. The two black wings on the top and bottom are spring-loaded and have to be pressed toward each other enough for their anchor lugs to clear the edges of the hole in the metal wall of the pillar. Once it’s out snap the two parts of the anchor back together and slide it back into the A pillar trim so it won’t get lost.

I finally have a chance to contact one of my engineer friend working for Honda at CRV division. He told me that is what they call "double clip" and it designed to hold and swing the pillar to the windshield side in case airbag deploy. He told me not to reuse the double clip regardless how I remove it because it will do some damage to the clip but to replace with new. That's the only thing protecting your face from the pillar preventing it flying to you when airbag deploy. Lucky, he will send me a few to use.
If you want proof, then look at the kit they sell if anyone wants to convert the "day light mirror" on a 2015 CRV or so. New clip was provided with the kit.
He doesn't think Honda sell the double clip at this point anywhere. Hope this help

 

[5150Code3]

I finally have a chance to contact one of my engineer friend working for Honda at CRV division. He told me that is what they call "double clip" and it designed to hold and swing the pillar to the windshield side in case airbag deploy. He told me not to reuse the double clip regardless how I remove it because it will do some damage to the clip but to replace with new. That's the only thing protecting your face from the pillar preventing it flying to you when airbag deploy. Lucky, he will send me a few to use.
If you want proof, then look at the kit they sell if anyone wants to convert the "day light mirror" on a 2015 CRV or so. New clip was provided with the kit.
He doesn't think Honda sell the double clip at this point anywhere. Hope this help

I purchased a couple of A pillar garnish clips for my 2024 Honda CRV Touring when installing a Vantrue E2.

I purchased from https://www.hondapartswholesale.com

Shipping shown is to California.

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
91561-T20-A01​	Clip Pillar Garnish​	$5.10​	2​	$10.20​

Subtotal: $10.20​

Estimated Shipping to 94513 via Standard Shipping: $5.29​

Tax: $0.96​

Total: $16.45​

 

[5150Code3]

'A' pillar garnish clip, 2023/24 Honda CRV.

 

[LordMelona]

After running the SG9663DCPRO without problems for 3 years in our 2016 CR-V we decided to trade in the car and buy a new 2024 CR-V Hybrid Sport Touring. I left the old cam in place for the next owner and bought a SG9667DC2K for the 2024. Installation was similar to what I documented earlier but this time the front camera went on the right side of the center HondaSense camera cluster, the GPS is mounted in the upper right corner of the windshield, the cables went down the A pillar on the passenger side behind the airbag, the hardwire power cable went behind the structures under the dash across to the fusebox, and the cable to the rear cam travelled down the passenger side of the vehicle. To get the rear cam cable through the rubber wiring tube that goes between the car body and the tailgate frame I taped it to a very long cable/zip tie and sprayed some CRC 2-26 Multi-Purpose Spray Lubricant (which is plastic- safe and non-conducting) into the wiring tube. The lube made it much easier to pull the cable through. These are the fuses I used with the SG hardwire kit Add-A-Fuses (the CR-V requires the Mini Low Profile fuse version):
Battery: Fuse 21, Cargo Accessory Socket (always on), 20A
Accessory: Fuse 46, [energized but empty], switches on/off when car is turned on/off

Note that different fuses in the fusebox have the hot contact on different sides of the fuse, identified with a testing probe. Fuse 21 and Fuse 46 had the hot contact on opposite sides, so the two Add-A-Fuses were installed in opposite directions. The outside contact (farthest from the wire) of the Add-A-Fuse was installed on the 'hot' side of each fuse location. This allows power to run through the dash cam fuse as well as the original fuse that is installed in the Add-A-Fuse. If you don't install it correctly the power will bypass the fuse, which would result in not having a fuse in the circuit.

Hi NARider, thank you for the detailed post on the installation. Recently got a 2024 CR-V so I’m trying to install a rear dash cam but I’m not quite confident in removing the back panel near the cargo. As shown in the picture, the yellow arrows are how I’m planning to route the cables, and panel/trim in blue is the one in question. I’ve seen videos where the trim in the green circle literally pops off with hands, but the one in blue it seems like there are clips on both ends that make it difficult to remove the trim. How did you pop off that trim? Or did you not have to route the cable that way? Thanks in advance.

 

[NARider]

Hi NARider, thank you for the detailed post on the installation. Recently got a 2024 CR-V so I’m trying to install a rear dash cam but I’m not quite confident in removing the back panel near the cargo. As shown in the picture, the yellow arrows are how I’m planning to route the cables, and panel/trim in blue is the one in question. I’ve seen videos where the trim in the green circle literally pops off with hands, but the one in blue it seems like there are clips on both ends that make it difficult to remove the trim. How did you pop off that trim? Or did you not have to route the cable that way? Thanks in advance.

I routed my cable to the liftgate the same way you're planning, except my cable came to the rear of the car on the passenger side of the car. Before I reinstalled the trim panel on the liftgate I marked the location of the clips, shown in white in the attached photo. These clips are friction-fit push-in type. I used my trim removal tool to reach under that green-circle panel to help release them. You can use just your hands if you want, but the tool allows you to put 'prying pressure' right next to the clip at the white marks.

To remove the panel you circled in blue, start by pulling the fat rubber trim on the door frame toward you until it comes free. It's soft and stretches slightly and just slides on and off the headliner and metal roof. Remove only the rubber trim across the top of the door frame, leaving the rest of it in place around the rest of the door frame. This will allow you to look inside above the headliner if you flex it down slightly.

Look between the headliner and the roof. I don't recall exactly, but I think I didn't disconnect the headliner from the clips holding it to the roof. I don't remember whether there are clips/hooks in your blue circled area, but once you remove the rubber trim you might get a better look at that area. If you need to drop the headliner you'll likely have to move some insulation out of the way, but with a flashlight you should be able to see where the friction-fit push-in clips are located, farther in toward the front of the car, that hold the headliner to the roof.

I think removing the rubber trim and just flexing the headliner down gave me enough access to snake the cable into the rubber flex hose leading to the liftgate. As I described in my post, spraying CRC 2-26 (from Home Depot) into the flex hose made it MUCH easier to pass the cable through it than when I didn't use any lube installing a cam on my 2016 CR-V.

BTW, after installing my rear camera this time I realized that I mounted it upside down. I should have had the cable plugging into the camera on the passenger side of the car (flipped 180 degrees from my situation). It's not a big deal because in the settings which you can access via the front camera's screen, or much easier with the Street Guardian app, there's a setting to invert the image from the rear camera.

Attached is a ZIP file with all the notes I wrote for myself as well as some pictures of my 2024 CR-V installation.

 

[LordMelona]

I routed my cable to the liftgate the same way you're planning, except my cable came to the rear of the car on the passenger side of the car. Before I reinstalled the trim panel on the liftgate I marked the location of the clips, shown in white in the attached photo. These clips are friction-fit push-in type. I used my trim removal tool to reach under that green-circle panel to help release them. You can use just your hands if you want, but the tool allows you to put 'prying pressure' right next to the clip at the white marks.

To remove the panel you circled in blue, start by pulling the fat rubber trim on the door frame toward you until it comes free. It's soft and stretches slightly and just slides on and off the headliner and metal roof. Remove only the rubber trim across the top of the door frame, leaving the rest of it in place around the rest of the door frame. This will allow you to look inside above the headliner if you flex it down slightly.

Look between the headliner and the roof. I don't recall exactly, but I think I didn't disconnect the headliner from the clips holding it to the roof. I don't remember whether there are clips/hooks in your blue circled area, but once you remove the rubber trim you might get a better look at that area. If you need to drop the headliner you'll likely have to move some insulation out of the way, but with a flashlight you should be able to see where the friction-fit push-in clips are located, farther in toward the front of the car, that hold the headliner to the roof.

I think removing the rubber trim and just flexing the headliner down gave me enough access to snake the cable into the rubber flex hose leading to the liftgate. As I described in my post, spraying CRC 2-26 (from Home Depot) into the flex hose made it MUCH easier to pass the cable through it than when I didn't use any lube installing a cam on my 2016 CR-V.

BTW, after installing my rear camera this time I realized that I mounted it upside down. I should have had the cable plugging into the camera on the passenger side of the car (flipped 180 degrees from my situation). It's not a big deal because in the settings which you can access via the front camera's screen, or much easier with the Street Guardian app, there's a setting to invert the image from the rear camera.

Attached is a ZIP file with all the notes I wrote for myself as well as some pictures of my 2024 CR-V installation.

Thank you so much for the detailed response! Your advice helped me so much. I didn’t think of pulling the rubber trim above the headliner. Once I did that, I could easily peek inside and see what the retaining tabs looked like. Then I just used a trim tool to push/release each retaining tab on both ends of the headliner and after that it was just a matter of pulling it down so the green clips got released from the roof.

Honestly, for me, removing the plastic trim/panels was the most challenging because I was afraid I was going to break them. It seems like tucking in the rear camera cable is pretty simple. Anyway, sorry for reviving a thread that’s 7+ months old but thanks again for your help! I greatly appreciate it.