Issue with the cam's time-keeping

[kamkar]

Yes i have a lot of USB ports in my glove box, some are already in use with some cameras and charging for phone / tablets and other little things i might bring.
But i have 6 X 2.4 A and a few 2 A and 1 A outlets from chargers and 12 V ciggerette splitters like the Rhundo niko sent me and another no name 3 way splitter.

Not room for much more in my glove box, and its only 3 of the 12 V slots i have occupied by SG power supplies at the moment, but they do take up a lot of space so if it work i would like to move away from the large ciggerette plugs at least.

 

[kamkar]

For space savings i have been contemplating making a "wall" behind my glove box and move my 12 V stuff there, the 2 X 3 way cigarette splitters do take up a lot of room in the little glove box.

I am thinking the Rhoundo splitter only as is, and then make some 12 V outlets i could use with supplies like the SG but with another smaller plug instead of the large cigarette lighter plug, will probably use 5.5 mm barrel plugs as i have some of those.
And then some way of securing excess wire and PSU with reusable cable ties or Velcro strips like i use for batteries in my RC car.

Then i have full options to test everything i am sent, and after a while if it is something i will keep in the car i can cut it back a little so it take up less room.

 

[jokiin]

I'll arrange some hardwire kits for you once we get more stock

 

[kamkar]

At your convenience,,, as usual.
Now that my M8 have his house, even in the dead of winter i will be able to work on my car and have a roof over my head.
And while i am a sun lover, then i still hope winter will be like our current summer, in which case i will sorely miss no longer having a 4 X 4, but good thing is my M8 live right off a major highway so everything should be good if we for once get a little snow.

 

[creedcooking]

I see that the included power supply is rated at 5V 1A, and my Anker adapter is rated at 5V 2.4A per port (for the non-QC center ports that I'm using).

I also used a USB power meter and the dash cam is only drawing a max of 5V 0.7A, well within the capacity of either adapter.

But anyway, will run with the included power supply for a few days and see what happens.

 

[jokiin]

voltages and amperage are both important, what's printed on the power supplies doesn't tell the full story

 

[Street Guardian USA]

3rd party mini USB Cable construction is another variable that I’ve seen cause intermittent issues with various dashcam products over the years.

 

[DT MI]

I see that the included power supply is rated at 5V 1A, and my Anker adapter is rated at 5V 2.4A per port (for the non-QC center ports that I'm using).

I also used a USB power meter and the dash cam is only drawing a max of 5V 0.7A, well within the capacity of either adapter.

But anyway, will run with the included power supply for a few days and see what happens.

Likewise the USB ports in my car are rated at 5V 2.4A but my DC experiences the same behavior as yours when using them to power the camera.

My theory, and it's just that - a theory, is the power supply isn't stable (either voltage or amperage fluctuations, or both) but is suitable for charging a device but that instability causes issues when used as the sole supply for operation.

 

[WeedeaterDM]

I have some experience with Anker brand usb power supplies. They are very unreliable, especially if there is more than one device plugged into them. My recent 2 amp charger is suppose to be 2 amp per port, when I plug in a second phone, the first phone goes into cycling of charging and not charging. Yet the usb meter shows it's getting enough power, so take what the meter says with a grain of salt. There is something else going on, maybe the power is not clean enough. Just noticed DT MI is basically saying the same thing. I would stick to the supplied power cable, it is a dedicated stable 5v supply, unless your cig port is having issues.

 

[kamkar]

You can always cut off the cigarette plug off the provided PSU and hardwire it, thats the reason its designed as it is with the PSU part in the little box on the wire and not in the plug as in the old days.

 

[DT MI]

If you're adamant about using a 12V-5V adapter I'm currently using one of these to power my DC, but it no longer appears to be available anywhere that I can find.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00MSYQ93I


I've also used one of these to successfully power 4 cameras concurrently (none a DC though - 2 A118C's and 2 SG9665GC's, all with GPS).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0169K7SQS

 

[SawMaster]

I have some experience with Anker brand usb power supplies. They are very unreliable, especially if there is more than one device plugged into them. My recent 2 amp charger is suppose to be 2 amp per port, when I plug in a second phone, the first phone goes into cycling of charging and not charging. Yet the usb meter shows it's getting enough power, so take what the meter says with a grain of salt. There is something else going on, maybe the power is not clean enough. Just noticed DT MI is basically saying the same thing. I would stick to the supplied power cable, it is a dedicated stable 5v supply, unless your cig port is having issues.

My older Anker 2.4A dual-port ciggie adapter has ran 2 cams as well as ran one cam while charging my dumbphone with never a glitch in 4 years of use. I think part of the problems like this that we see is in the newer "smart charging" systems, which will draw at their maximum rate when activated. This might leave a second port underpowered or might cause instability in both ports. As all Li batteries do best with lower charging rates, I see no need for "smart charging", and if such a system were desired it would be best to develop a new non-USB charging system to go along with it since USB wasn't really designed with these larger current draws in mind.

It's not in making something work in optimum conditions, it's making something work in all reasonable conditions that matters. Hard to blame the charger or adaptor for being asked to do more than it was designed for.

Phil

 

[WeedeaterDM]

Looking at one of the Anker chargers here on my desk now, it's suppose to be a 2.4 amp per port. I agree about the smart garbage, it is not giving a stable clean supply of power. With a good meter, I can see the volts and amps jumping around quite a bit. It can't even run my GoPro Hero 2 very well. My phone is an old Galaxy S4 and doesn't support the fast charging, but yet I haven't found an Anker product that can charge it half as fast as anything else I have. My 10 year old Rayovac two port charger is rated 2 amps total and can power my GoPro and charge my phone faster than the Ankers do with the phone by itself. They have sent me quite a few chargers in the past 3 years to try out, not impressed one bit with them. I have something somewhere around here, can't remember for the life of me what it is, but I do remember reading in the manual that it says not to power it with a smart charger.

 

[creedcooking]

So far, no issue with the stock charger!

 

[creedcooking]

I did hear a single random beep (twice) last night which sounded like it came from the camera. I woke up the screen and everything seems normal - it's still recording. Do you know what a single quick beep would be trying to indicate? One thought is perhaps a strong enough bump triggered the G-Sensor, but I confirmed that G-Sensor sensitivity is turned off.

 

[DT MI]

I did hear a single random beep (twice) last night which sounded like it came from the camera.....Do you know what a single quick beep would be trying to indicate? One thought is perhaps a strong enough bump triggered the G-Sensor, but I confirmed that G-Sensor sensitivity is turned off.

I'd be interested in the answer to this myself. I on occasion also hear a single beep and my G-Sensor is also off. My issue is a can't say for sure it's coming from the camera since I have a new vehicle with all sorts of warning/caution/notification/alert sounds - most of which I have no idea what they're trying to tell me.

 

[jokiin]

I did hear a single random beep (twice) last night which sounded like it came from the camera. I woke up the screen and everything seems normal - it's still recording. Do you know what a single quick beep would be trying to indicate? One thought is perhaps a strong enough bump triggered the G-Sensor, but I confirmed that G-Sensor sensitivity is turned off.

did you notice where the counter was at, if you do hear an unexpected beep it will generally be at a file change point

 

[DT MI]

did you notice where the counter was at, if you do hear an unexpected beep it will generally be at a file change point

I'll keep that in mind and if/when I hear it again I'll make note of the time and see if I can correlate it to anything.

 

[creedcooking]

did you notice where the counter was at, if you do hear an unexpected beep it will generally be at a file change point

The counter on the top right corner was at less than 10 seconds, so conceivably it coincides.

What does the beep mean when it happens at a file change point?

 

[Street Guardian USA]

Do you have irregular segment size/length videos around that time? Or are all videos the same? (Except for the last one of course)