Mobius support thread and Tech Guide (post all problems/help requests here) Read posts #1-8 first

The timelapse is video, not photos
The Mobius 1 can do timelapse video, in one or both video modes, and also photos at a user defined interval in photo mode.
 
Thank you.
Frames from a video clip or time lapse (more resolution) could work if nothing else is available.
Have you compared photos from time lapse photo against single photos? Is there any difference in quality, file size etc?
 
I have tried now.
Time lapse photos (1sec, for faster frame rates I read somewhere max resolution is 2 Mp) have maximum resolution as normal photos, 3.5 Mp.
Files in time lapse are 932 kb; normal photos (same scene some minutes later) are 1.12 Mb, but checking other single pictures I took yesterday, they were 970 kb.
Time lapse photos (1sec) have H and V resolution 96dpi; single photos have H and V resolution 72dpi (do not know if that matters).
No visible difference in quality for me: both time lapse and single photos have the same "green veil" which I suppose depends on WB calibration: I would like to find good custom values for that.

I repeated taking photos manually pressing the shutter button in front of a clock and I have to say that the frame rate is faster than I reported in my first post: it is actually about 6 frames in 10 seconds......

Maybe the difference is due to lag in shutter button...
 
I often see comments about the 'green ting' in photos.
I suspect this is due to cut-off slope in the IR filter.
Sharp cut off filters cost more.
In the graphic you can see what colors gets cut, what colors pass with 2 hypothetical filters that both cut UV and IR (areas that the camera can still 'see'.

spectrum.jpg
 
I tried these values in Advanced settings:
Red: 331
Green 256
Blue: 404
The pictures (in evening scenes) seem better to me. Anyway I have to compare more and more pictures in different conditions.
If changing the WB values in msetup should give acceptable results that would imply it is not so difficult to get rid of the 'green ting' which I have seen also in many samples on the net. Someone with some knowledge (and, of course, the manifacturer with other means....) could find better values.........
 
I tried these values in Advanced settings:
Red: 331
Green 256
Blue: 404
The pictures (in evening scenes) seem better to me. Anyway I have to compare more and more pictures in different conditions.
If changing the WB values in msetup should give acceptable results that would imply it is not so difficult to get rid of the 'green ting' which I have seen also in many samples on the net. Someone with some knowledge (and, of course, the manifacturer with other means....) could find better values.........

Which lens is on your Mobius? A-B-C-C2-or D? Do you have the correct lens profile designated in mSetup? Each of the lens profile settings will affect the color balance. This alone might fix your color balance issue. Change those settings and see what happens.

If you want to adjust the RGB values, start with the camera at the default color balance. Then point the camera at a white (or grey) wall or large white (or grey) paper or cardboard and shoot some footage. Then check to to see what color tint bias you see. Once you have some basic information about what the camera is actually doing you can make more intelligent choices when you begin to make your corrections. Repeat the process described above and shoot some more footage of a white or grey wall. The goal will be to get the white or grey card or wall to be as white or grey as possible with no color tints.

Use the RGB color wheel as a guide. Red and Green/Cyan are opposites, so adding some Red will make things less Green and vice versa. Blue and Yellow are opposites on the color wheel so adding Blue will make things less Yellow or vice versa. Of course, manipulating these colors will affect Cyan, Magenta and Yellow. The concept is to adjust the colors so together they create the White in the middle of the color wheel which is "White Balance". When making changes to the RGB values in mSetup try to imagine that you are moving the three different color circles RED-GREEN-BLUE in and out from the center WHITE portion of the chart.

Using a white or grey wall, or even a white or grey object in your images is a good tool to help you see objectively what the camera is doing.


RGB2.jpg rbg.jpg
 
and don't adjust color when your monitor or phone goes to night light mode.
I did that last night and can see the difference today.
:)
I think Photoshop can ignore the night light.
 
Than you all for your useful information and suggestions!

Which lens is on your Mobius? A-B-C-C2-or D? Do you have the correct lens profile designated in mSetup? Each of the lens profile settings will affect the color balance. This alone might fix your color balance issue. Change those settings and see what happens.

I have a mobius 1 v3 with lens A2 (narrower fov, I think).
In msetup basic settings it is toggled 'lens type A'. The camera is indicated in msetup as "Mobius action cam v 2.41"
I do not know which other specifications to add in msetup.
The default color balance was set to AWB. Tomorrow I will do as you suggested.....
 
Than you all for your useful information and suggestions!



I have a mobius 1 v3 with lens A2 (narrower fov, I think).
In msetup basic settings it is toggled 'lens type A'. The camera is indicated in msetup as "Mobius action cam v 2.41"
I do not know which other specifications to add in msetup.
The default color balance was set to AWB. Tomorrow I will do as you suggested.....

I forget to mention the A2 lens in my post but now that I know that is the lens you have I think it is very likely that if your set the lens profile to "C" in mSetup it will fix your green tint problem. The reason that I know that is that I tested one of the early A2 lens Mobius camera and experienced nearly the same thing if I understand what you are describing. In the case of the camera I tested, there was a color shift towards Cyan if the camera encountered a RED object in the FOV that was eliminated after changing the setting from A to C.

See these links (and the rest of the thread) to see examples of what I am talking about:

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/mobius-a2-lens-experiences-observations.27691/post-327556

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/mobius-a2-lens-experiences-observations.27691/post-327574
 
Last edited:
Thank you: I read this post just now. Tomorrow I will test.
I also tried with custom WB after some trials of white walls in shadow on sunny day. I find these values:
R 301
G 256
B 367
could eliminate a bit the problem in some scenes but with other new problems in other scenes. So I decided to stay with the default....
 
Sorry I wrote last post last night and I did not post...
Now i have taken some pictures with msetup lens A, B, C. Each other parameter set as default, WB,: auto
All pictures are underexposed.

I have also taken the same scenes with settings for lens A, B, C and ev: 54; WB: custom1, i.e. R:331; G:256; B:404. Do not ask me why these values in WB: I do not remember where I found.

The best results, for me, are with the following settings:
Lens B
ev: 54
WB: custom1
Here are the pictures, names of files hope are explanatory
I have other scenes from the same point of view of all the same settings which confirm the above considerations.
I consider the color of the main building: the auto B and C settings are "reddish" (I do not know how to say in terms of color balance). Also the color of the sky is more "natural" (hard to define what it reaaly means...) in Lens Bcust1ev54......



IMAG0010Aauto1.JPGIMAG0019Bauto.JPGIMAG0026Cauto.JPGIMAG0008Acust1ev54.JPGIMAG0001Bcust1ev54.JPG



IMAG0001Ccust1ev54.JPG


I would be grateful if someone owing a mobius 1 lens A and a mobius 1 v3 lens A2, mine, could advise me which one gives "best" results in photos. I would need to by another item and I am a little puzzled whether mobius 1 Lens A or mobius 1 v3 lens A2.

I bought this mobius version because I would prefer a narrower FOV, but the differences in FOV between Lens A and Lens A2 are minimal. Would I have red the interesting posts on this subject from @Dashmellow (many, many thanks) I would have bought mobius 1 lens A. My fault...

It is difficult, almost for me, to find a full explanation and full specifications of the many versions of mobius cams: I found it exists mobius 1 v3 lens A2 just by chance looking around on internet, I do not remember where....
 
Was doing some reading yesterday but now I can't find the two threads that broke down the Möbius battery options.

Anyways, I'm looking to replace the battery on my möbius wide lens action camera. I'm guessing it's the original V1 I own (purchased in Aug 2016)

I use this camera mainly to record side projects. But I've found lately the original battery really doesn't last the full 2 hours.

From my reading yesterday I believe this was the best replacement to improving the battery power https://m.banggood.com/Mobius-3_7V-...k2_mu0d5&utm_source=ShareASale&utm_medium=aff

Just wanted to make sure that was correct and also make sure I won't have any issues after the replacement.
 
When my laptop died I lost some files and msetup. So now I need a bit of assistance, as my Möbius suffered a card failure, and when that happened if affected the startup settings.

First, IIRC there was a comprehensive list of how to interpret the various LED flashes. I thought I had it bookmarked here but I don't.

Second, I recall something similar regards programming the startup sequence via button presses only.

I did get the new card formatted and it did record fine, but it starts in photo mode and after maybe a half hour locks up with a solid yellow LED showing and the buttons don't work.Tried this both in the van and with two PS's and several cables here at the desk. I'm no good with writing to text filles on the card- I wouldn't even know how to find the file to write to. And as dodgy as this tablet is I wouldn't even want to try for risk of bricking the cam. The caps seem OK, no last file problems but I found a new set in the drawer last night so I might put them in just to be sure.

I hope it's not dead, but after 3-4 years of 24/7 recording in the van where the summer heat can melt humans, I absolutely can't complain. I wish I had a box full of these cams, even with the dated hardware they are a solid performer like none other. I hope they never cease producing these, but the Maxi is looking good at this point too and would fill the role if they can get it to work as magnificently as the M1 does. In my mind, the original Möbius is an icon of perfection in mass production.

The card that died was one of my oldest Transcend 400X's. Had to have had at least 2000+ cycles on it. It failed oddly- the retaining notch (which looks fine) will no longer retain the card even in several cams and this tablet. The replacement card locks and works fine. My guess is the heat may have softened the card plastic, and the ejection spring pressing against it finally moved it far enough to malfunction. Again no complaints- that's great performance from a card.
 
That's good but I wonder if he needs the trouble shooting LED sequence info?

That's what I need, I already have the manual (thanks anyway Jokin). When the card died it gave a series of fast yellow flashes which I couldn't find the meaning of even after reading again the first 17 pages of this thread. Until I get a windows machine going again anything I do has to be button pushes only. I can't even format my larger cards to fat32 or test them right now. The card I replaced the bad one with was formatted in a G1W-HC which has the same sensor/chipset combo and it does work, but only till it locks up in standby after an hour or two. I had a similar problem once before which turned out to be changed settings. Resetting them in msetup was easy, but lacking that makes working with a balky Möbius a real PITA. And BTW, the rear LED no longer flashes at startup of while recording anymore either, but it did initially after the card swap.

Phil
 
Last edited:
Back
Top