More newbie questions

I did manage to get the FCWS to work...sort of. It does beep at the appropriate time, most of the time, but there are many times when it alarms when there is no real reason to. So I will have to monkey with the exposure to get it right. That, and I need to work on routing the power cable properly. In the meantime I will turn both FCWS and LDWS off (as most everybody else seems to) and go with that.
 
After cleaning. The Halos are still there! I think that I have the exposure too high...
View attachment 35072
Can you try that image again but without the CPL and make sure the lens is clean?

In that image, your halos are offset from the lights as though they are being caused by the curved lens rather than the windshield, or maybe a reflection on the lens from the CPL, not what we normally see.

I think the exposure is OK, the red traffic lights are still red, they would turn yellow if over exposed.
 
Ok, I will try that tonite (it is 2:36 pm here) and post the results. I won't be able to clean the lens, but I will take a pic of it and post it in a few minutes.
 
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CPL. The white dot to the right of center is on the CPL. I cleaned it with dish soap, warm water (from reverse osmosis water filter) and 3 q-tips.
 
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Did you take the protective cover off both sides of the CPL?
 
that could be reduced by some tuning of the image quality settings in the firmware, but you're going to lose a lot of detail in low light if that was done, not worth the trade off
 
Christmas tree looks much better before you cleaned the lens :D

Looks like the lens was cleaned with something that left a residue.

White dot on CPL probably wont be noticeable in the image, though obviously it is not perfect.
 
I cleaned the lens and CPL with a drop of Dawn detergent in a cup of warm distilled water. I used q-tips to do the cleaning and a microfiber cloth bought to clean eyeglasses to dry everything. Before drying, both the lens and CPL were rinsed with distilled water. I managed to get that white spot off of the CPL.
 
I cleaned the lens and CPL with a drop of Dawn detergent in a cup of warm distilled water. I used q-tips to do the cleaning and a microfiber cloth bought to clean eyeglasses to dry everything. Before drying, both the lens and CPL were rinsed with distilled water. I managed to get that white spot off of the CPL.
Good job.

I meant that before you cleaned it there was some residue on the lens, maybe from factory cleaning.

Have the street light halos gone now?
 
Unfortunately, the halos are still there. They are more evident during the night than during the day. This is disappointing as I took a full hour to clean the lens and CPL.
Question: Is it possible that the dash cam needs some kind of shield to prevent this kind of thing?
Comment: The only thing left to clean is the windshield. I will do that and post another pic tomorrow night.
Meanwhile, here is the promised pic after I cleaned the lens and CPL thoroughly:

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Even the taillights have halos, but very slight. I can live with that. The halo on the street light, however, is something else. I may also try different resolutions, but I don't think that is the problem. My understanding about the CPL was that it was supposed to prevent this kind of thing. Could the CPL be bad???
 
Fair enough. My concern about the CPL comes from a video that purported to test whether or not the CPL was legit or not. This video had me remove the CPL, point it at a cellphone and rotate it. At a particular angle, the view of the cellphone went dark. My CPL doesnt do that. The view becomes darker, but not nearly as dark as the video showed.
The last thing to try is to clean the windshield. I have many other things I need to do, so it may be a while before I get around to cleaning it (kitchen remodel).
Thanks anyway for putting up with my dumb questions!
 
Try the CPL in front of your computer monitor (look through from the camera side) and rotate it and see if it darkens at a particular point

Be cautious about the information you find in some of the YouTube videos, a lot of it is opinion and is not accurate
 
An LCD/LED TV is best, as long as it is not a 3D one, they should turn black with the camera rotated 90 degrees.
Phones use many different technologies, not a safe test, and computer monitors often turn black at a different angle.

For the halos, can you pull over and point the camera at the streetlights without the windscreen in the way? That will prove if it is the glass or the camera, then you can stop worrying about one of them.
 
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