Output power connector for Viofo BP100

D

Dashcam1955

New Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2026
Messages
7
Reaction score
3
Location
Boise
Country
United States
Hello, I am looking for the exact name/part number for the NON-USB power output connector for the Viofo BP100. Viofo wouldn't be more specific than calling it a "4-pin panel mount wafer connector (with keyed notch)". In my experence this looks more like a 'euroblock connector 4-pin' but no dice with a google search. I attached a photo of the part number that I need. Viofo customer tech support was no help. I need the female (opposite) connector that is included with the Viofo wiring kit. Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • img_o18pb3fo84_88459bfdcfbae9351982b36d10da1d0aa20b729fffb2e4aa4bce4830554563ac.webp
    img_o18pb3fo84_88459bfdcfbae9351982b36d10da1d0aa20b729fffb2e4aa4bce4830554563ac.webp
    7.2 KB · Views: 30
The female 4-pin plastic Molex connector and female terminal pins used to connect with the BP100 12V output power connector are the same items used with a variety of EGEN produced dash camera battery packs. I created a video a few years ago showing the part numbers and how I crimp the terminal pins onto the cable wires.

I use the 20 AWG to 24 AWG terminal pins when I'm connecting a dash camera hardwire cable/kit directly to the battery pack since the dash camera power cables "never" have a wire gauge larger than 20 AWG. I use the 18 AWG terminal pins and a 3-wire cable with 18 AWG copper wire if I'm running the power cable from the dash camera battery pack to a remote location in the vehicle. I've created several power cables using both Molex connector types. I had not used the 18 AWG terminal pins/connectors when I created my video, but I have several times over the past year or two.

The main thing about which wire goes into which Molex connector terminal pin position is based on the power type [constant, switched, or ground]. VIOFO dash camera hardwire kit cables have a red wire for the constant power wire and a yellow wire for the switched/accessory power, and a black wire for ground. Other dash camera companies will use swap the red and yellow wire colors. Make sure you identify the type of power required by the dash camera power cable to make sure the correct Molex connector terminal pin position is used.

The VIOFO hardwire kit wire insulation tends to be thicker than most other wires used for this purpose. It can be a bit more challenging to crimp those wires with thicker insulation into the Molex terminal pin since the thick wire insulation doesn't "fit" well into the end part of the terminal pin that is intended to be crimped onto the wire insulation. I've found that if I strip just a little more of the wire insulation off the wire and crimp the bare wire in that final [wire insulation] crimp area, it works much better with the VIOFO hardwire kit wires. Just make sure not to strip off too much which can result in the bare wires being exposed beyond the plastic Molex connector.
 
If I was to send you $100, or made a $100 donation to your favorite charity, would you build me a 6 inch cable that would go between my BP100 and the cable that in circled in the photo below? I know just enough about electronics to get me to this web fourm. From what I understand the yellow being energized takes the S329 out of parking mode. I imagine that all a person would have to do is use the red that comes out of the BP100 port on the jack and tie it in to the yellow on the 6 inch cable that I described, connecting the jumper to the connector that is right now in the BP100. Having the 6 inch jumper cable makes it so that I can switch between setups.

It would be really cool to have the above setup on an in-line switch. Ideally such a switch would be setup so it is illuminated in what is normal driving mode and when switched into the alt-mode the light would be not illuminated as this would further drain the BP100 while parked.

I don't feel comfortable messing with the current dash setup as it was installed by a car stero company because I have vents running though the ceiling for HVAC. Having said that, the cords in the professional install were just long enough to reach the S329.
 

Attachments

  • img_c7dhd2p63a_71875cd56873e9998b62b7bd55388033575e43f25f33d74413a3e39e633cda47.webp
    img_c7dhd2p63a_71875cd56873e9998b62b7bd55388033575e43f25f33d74413a3e39e633cda47.webp
    60.3 KB · Views: 30
Dashcam1955 said:
If I was to send you $100, or made a $100 donation to your favorite charity, would you build me a 6 inch cable that would go between my BP100 and the cable that in circled in the photo below? I know just enough about electronics to get me to this web fourm. From what I understand the yellow being energized takes the S329 out of parking mode. I imagine that all a person would have to do is use the red that comes out of the BP100 port on the jack and tie it in to the yellow on the 6 inch cable that I described, connecting the jumper to the connector that is right now in the BP100. Having the 6 inch jumper cable makes it so that I can switch between setups.
Click to expand...
The 3-wire cable that plugs into the BP100 12V 4-pin Molex connector output port already has the [yellow - VIOFO wire color] accessory/switched power wire present. The BP100 will manage the power on that wires so the dash camera's hardwire kit knows when to turn off the accessory/switched power to the dash camera.

I'm not quite understanding what adding the switch will do for you since that will sidestep the automated accessory/switched power management by the BP100.
 
From the photo and Viofo’s description, it doesn’t look like a typical Euroblock connector to me. My first guess would be some type of JST-style 4-pin connector, but it's hard to be certain without knowing the pin spacing. If you can measure the pitch between the pins or post a close-up of both sides, that would make it much easier to identify. Hopefully someone with a BP100 wiring kit can check and confirm the exact part number.
 
rcg530 said:
The 3-wire cable that plugs into the BP100 12V 4-pin Molex connector output port already has the [yellow - VIOFO wire color] accessory/switched power wire present. The BP100 will manage the power on that wires so the dash camera's hardwire kit knows when to turn off the accessory/switched power to the dash camera.

I'm not quite understanding what adding the switch will do for you since that will sidestep the automated accessory/switched power management by the BP100.
Click to expand...
The intent is to circumvent the BP100 from deciding when to turn on and off my dashcam. I want to decide when the S329 is on and filming 30 frames (not 10) per second; not the position of key in the ignition.

I would imagine if one was to simply take the constant red wire and splice it into the yellow wire, that the dashcam will think it is in driving mode and therefore stay on until the BP100 ran out of power. My guess this would be about 3-4 hours, which is perfectly fine.

My suggestion about adding a 6 inch patch cable to accomplish this, is because it keeps the existing $300 installation (and warranty) intact, and does minimal to disturb the existing installation. And it keeps it looking stock. I don't want to disturb the wiring at the windshield/dashcam end as I do not want the installation to start looking like Doc Brown's Delorean.

My suggestion about adding a switch simply avoids me plugging in and unplugging the waifer plug from the existing setup. My experience with waifer plugs is that you get about 8 months worth of plugging in and unplugging, plugging in and unplugging that eventually the plug falls apart and then I would have to pay someone $250 to fish a brand new cable from under my seat to the rear view mirror because there is a sporadic short in the cable from plugging and unplugging it.

Having the switch only light up while in driving mode is that: 1) I want an indicator of what mode the setup is in, 2) but I don't want said setup to further drain the BP100 battery while in my modified parking mode. The BP100 is tucked neatly under the seat and having a extra 6 inch wire/switch there will not impact anything.
 
I use a short cable with a toggle switch in the dash camera ACC power wire to perform parking mode tests. I don't have a need for an illuminated switch, but I understand how that would be helpful to know when the dash camera ACC power signal is "on" or "off".

The cable you want would be sourcing the dash camera constant power and the power sent to the switch from the battery packs constant power pin.
1780529926675.webp


You could select the A329S low bitrate parking mode which records at 30 fps, but a lower video bitrate to save space on the memory card. That way you could leave the wiring as it is now, but still get a 30 fps parking mode video files [with a reduced bitrate, but with audio].

1780531444726.webp
 
rcg530 said:
I use a short cable with a toggle switch in the dash camera ACC power wire to perform parking mode tests. I don't have a need for an illuminated switch, but I understand how that would be helpful to know when the dash camera ACC power signal is "on" or "off".

The cable you want would be sourcing the dash camera constant power and the power sent to the switch from the battery packs constant power pin.
View attachment 91792

You could select the A329S low bitrate parking mode which records at 30 fps, but a lower video bitrate to save space on the memory card. That way you could leave the wiring as it is now, but still get a 30 fps parking mode video files [with a reduced bitrate, but with audio].

View attachment 91793
Click to expand...
Thank you. That looks like the switch that I would need. It appears by your post that you have wrapped your mind around what I am looking for.

Thank you for letting me know about the low bitrate recording. However, I am looking for a full dose of caffeine. Full, maximum strength. I came equipped with the Viofo 512GB SSD that I had to buy to avoid the “Slow Card” message. It would take a while to fill up.

You could run a separate tangent wire that leads to a 2nd switch followed by an LED so I can have visual confirmation what state the pivotal first switch is in. Then when I am happy with whatever state the switch is in, I can switch the 2nd switch off to avoid additional unneccesary battery drain. The 2nd switch should be conspicuously (touch, feel, type) different from the pivotal first switch in order to avoid confusion.

Would/could you build this for me?
 
Actually you could probably install one of these switches as the 2nd switch and simply cap off the output wire. This could verify the state of the ACC (wire) heading to the dashcam, but when this illuminated switch is turned off, it would do nothing to the setup.
 

Attachments

  • 61UnZYTBR+L._SL1500_.webp
    61UnZYTBR+L._SL1500_.webp
    62 KB · Views: 26
An important advantage also is that when the dash cam is in parking mode, it does not allow you to connect to the camera while the camera is parked. You either have to put the key in the ignition (battery draining the whole car) or connect to the camera only when driving, or in a drive thru.

At least this has been my experience. If you are aware of a way in the firmware/software setting to workaround this and allow connections while parked, please let me know.

Also, is there a tool that you use to crimp and insert the wire terminals into the plastic housing? Something that is the equivalent of a rj45 Crimping Tool, but for this application.

I didn't hear from you so I went ahead and ordered all the parts you listed above from Mouser.
rcg530 said:
I use a short cable with a toggle switch in the dash camera ACC power wire to perform parking mode tests. I don't have a need for an illuminated switch, but I understand how that would be helpful to know when the dash camera ACC power signal is "on" or "off".

The cable you want would be sourcing the dash camera constant power and the power sent to the switch from the battery packs constant power pin.
View attachment 91792

You could select the A329S low bitrate parking mode which records at 30 fps, but a lower video bitrate to save space on the memory card. That way you could leave the wiring as it is now, but still get a 30 fps parking mode video files [with a reduced bitrate, but with audio].

View attachment 91793
Click to expand...

An important advantage also is that when the dash cam is in parking mode, it does not allow you to connect to the camera while the camera is parked. You either have to put the key in the ignition (battery draining the whole car) or connect to the camera only when driving, or in a drive thru.

At least this has been my experience. If you are aware of a way in the firmware/software setting to workaround this and allow connections while parked, please let me know.

Also, is there a tool that you use to crimp and insert the wire terminals into the plastic housing? Something that is the equivalent of a rj45 Crimping Tool, but for this specific application for dashcam wire.

I didn't hear from you so I went ahead and ordered all the parts you listed above from Mouser.
 
The tool used to crimp the terminal pins to the wires is shown in the video I posted about making these cables at 6:02 in the video. I use a three crimp approach [shown in the video] starting with the "C" crimp, moving down to the "B" crimp, and finishing with the "A" crimp position in the tool. Make sure you stay as close as possible to the wire end with the crimping tool so you don't accidentally crimp the metal tabs on the terminal pin that are part of the securing system for the terminal pin in the plastic Molex connector.

VIOFO dash cameras will not allow its Wi-Fi subsystem to operate [receive client connections from phones] while in parking mode. There is a Wi-Fi station mode which will have the dash camera connect to an external Wi-Fi system. I believe Wi-Fi station mode also requires the dash camera to be in "normal recording" mode. VIOFO has a web page on that feature: https://www.viofo.com/blogs/viofo-c...able-wi-fi-station-mode-on-your-viofo-dashcam
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top