Parking Guard Hardwirekit Released

Looks like it might plug in to the Mount.

Whenever I install electronics with USB connectors in a tight fit environment,
I always prefer having and using USB cables with Right Angle or Left Angle connectors,
or if not available I use an angle adaptor.

wJYgXAD.png
Not enough space...
 
yes that is why we made a new mold for new brackets.
but the mold have been moded for 4 times there is still small defect which we have to handle. The new brackets was scheduled to be released at the end of Feb.
it is almost done now this time (after solved the vibration issue it is too hard to take out from the painted housing).

20160403121940.jpg
 
this is the negative side of trying to make products as small as possible, everything becomes much harder
 
Not enough space...

oh well, too bad...

But to confirm, the Parking Guard Hardwire Kit is to connect to the GPS mount, correct?

I power my 0805 using a USB cable that has a right angle connector at the end.
I find it has a much more hidden appearance and professional looking installation
when using a right angle USB connector into my camera.
Looks very custom, very clean / neat, and very discreet with a right angle connector at the end for me.
 
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yes that is why we made a new mold for new brackets.
but the mold have been moded for 4 times there is still small defect which we have to handle. The new brackets was scheduled to be released at the end of Feb.
it is almost done now this time (after solved the vibration issue it is too hard to take out from the painted housing).

View attachment 22049
So you are basically saying that until I have the new mount, I will not be able to use the parking guard?
 
sorry but - yes
 
How can I get the new mount?
 
Battery Voltage and State of Charge:
if battery can cut off at 12,0 or 12,2 will be best.

when we design a hardwire kit, we can't only consider the still voltage but also some other conditions:
let's use the normal vehicle 12V accumulator as example:
still voltage: 13.5V-12.3V OK, 12.3V-12.0V works, 12.0V-11.5V short, 11.5V-10.5V reject, lower than 10.5V, accumulator scrap;
ignite instant: 11.0V-10.5V OK, 10.5V-10V works, 10V-9V reject, lower than 9V, accumulator scrap;
recharging: 14.2V-13.5V OK, 13.5V-12.5V heavy duty working OK, 12.5V-11.5V heavy duty working short;

you may find the proper voltage for hardwire kits to work, both for still voltage and recharging voltage.
if the cutting off voltage is set to 12V, the hardwire kit will cut off when starting, heavy duty outputs (air conditioner or head light or cigar light working)
a still voltage bellow 11.5V should be avoid because that may affect the ignite start.
that is why we use 11.5V as cutting off voltage.
at the same time, most (estimated 90%) hardwire kits was marked to be set to 11.5V that is this reason. (although the real cutting off voltage is 11.0V to 11.5V in our test, depends on different design)
 
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when we design a hardwire kit, we can't only consider the still voltage but also some other conditions:
let's use the normal vehicle 12V accumulator as example:
still voltage: 13.5V-12.3V OK, 12.3V-12.0V works, 12.0V-11.5V short, 11.5V-10.5V reject, lower than 10.5V, accumulator scrap;
ignite instant: 11.0V-10.5V OK, 10.5V-10V works, 10V-9V reject, lower than 9V, accumulator scrap;
recharging: 14.2V-13.5V OK, 13.5V-12.5V heavy duty working OK, 12.5V-11.5V heavy duty working short;

you may find the proper voltage for hardwire kits to work, both for still voltage and recharging voltage.
if the cutting off voltage is set to 12V, the hardwire kit will cut off when starting, heavy duty outputs (air conditioner or head light or cigar light working)
a still voltage bellow 11.5V should be avoid because that may affect the ignite start.
that is why we use 11.5V as cutting off voltage.
at the same time, most (estimated 90%) hardwire kits was set to 11.5V that is this reason.
Do you have source of this ? I did some google search, but have not any information like what you wrote. And because you can't google, so you can show us the link in chinese or scan/use your phone and take a pic of document.
 
when we design a hardwire kit, we can't only consider the still voltage but also some other conditions:
let's use the normal vehicle 12V accumulator as example:
still voltage: 13.5V-12.3V OK, 12.3V-12.0V works, 12.0V-11.5V short, 11.5V-10.5V reject, lower than 10.5V, accumulator scrap;
ignite instant: 11.0V-10.5V OK, 10.5V-10V works, 10V-9V reject, lower than 9V, accumulator scrap;
recharging: 14.2V-13.5V OK, 13.5V-12.5V heavy duty working OK, 12.5V-11.5V heavy duty working short;

you may find the proper voltage for hardwire kits to work, both for still voltage and recharging voltage.
if the cutting off voltage is set to 12V, the hardwire kit will cut off when starting, heavy duty outputs (air conditioner or head light or cigar light working)
a still voltage bellow 11.5V should be avoid because that may affect the ignite start.
that is why we use 11.5V as cutting off voltage.
at the same time, most (estimated 90%) hardwire kits was marked to be set to 11.5V that is this reason. (although the real cutting off voltage is 11.0V to 11.5V in our test, depends on different design)
The cut off should only work when in parking mode (accessory is off), then you can safely use a 12v cut off voltage and there will be no problems and you also know that you will have enough power to start your engine.

(Assuming accessory does not turn off when starting the engine, a short delay before cutting off can solve that.)
(Not sure about hybrid engines?)
 
for most cars yeah, 11.5v though .......
The engine will not start at 11.5V. The voltage will go up a bit when the camera is turned off but it will still be too low and if you take the battery to that voltage often it will kill the battery.
 
2637122467_2132390227.jpg

I found this in market. Do you think this can solve the problem ? But how can I solve this solution to customers. May good for DIY.
 
The engine will not start at 11.5V. The voltage will go up a bit when the camera is turned off but it will still be too low and if you take the battery to that voltage often it will kill the battery.

I know that, and you know that, I guess nobody involved in the design of this thought to check though ;)
 
this is the negative side of trying to make products as small as possible, everything becomes much harder
It's not about the size but rather about planning. They knew about the parking guard kit so they could've used mount with four pins or (IMHO better choice) get rid of this all together and use a small pigtail that would connect GPS mount to the base.
If MEG insists on connector that is built in to the mount they should look at Garmin GPS. Both magnetic and regular ones are very sturdy and reliable.
Here is a picture of an old style Garmin GPS mount with connector which is very sturdy, reliable and small:
IMG_20160403_094918.jpg
 
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Do you have source of this ? I did some google search, but have not any information like what you wrote. And because you can't google, so you can show us the link in chinese or scan/use your phone and take a pic of document.

or maybe you can google "cutting off voltage of accumulator" . Here is a Chinese page for your reference.
http://baike.baidu.com/link?url=whc...ZmNd4E2XHJC0WyNUMRVhuExJ3g0BlV5odp3EGlSGIlZeK

and make sure the cutting off voltage is onload voltage not NO LOAD.
the accumulators in vehicle are 45Ah or 60Ah, calculate the output current for a dash camera is only 5*0.5(MAX)/12/80%(swithcing efficiency)=0.26A, so a regular 45Ah accumulator will power a dash camera for 173hours or 7 days in a parked car.
When you leave your vehicle in garage and go for a long vacation, please slide the toggle switch to OFF position, or take the positive pole away from accumulator.
 
Do you have source of this ? I did some google search, but have not any information like what you wrote. And because you can't google, so you can show us the link in chinese or scan/use your phone and take a pic of document.

or maybe you can google "Cut-off discharge voltage of accumulator", usually the cutting off voltage is 10.5V in datasheet.
a dash camera with hardwire kit will consume 5*0.5(MAX)/12/80%(swithcing efficiency)=0.26A, the discharging rate is 0.26/45=0.006C for a 45Ah battery; this is a very low rate so it is more deatructive if there is no cutting off limit.
we have to "leave" some redundant voltage for engine start, and make sure the cutting off voltage is onload voltage not NO LOAD.
Here is a Chinese page for your reference.
http://baike.baidu.com/link?url=whc...ZmNd4E2XHJC0WyNUMRVhuExJ3g0BlV5odp3EGlSGIlZeK

the accumulators in vehicle are 45Ah or 60Ah, calculate the output current for a dash camera is only 5*0.5(MAX)/12/80%(swithcing efficiency)=0.26A, so a regular 45Ah accumulator will power a dash camera for 173hours or 7 days in a parked car.

When you leave your vehicle in garage and go for a long vacation, please slide the toggle switch on hardwire kit to OFF position, or take the positive pole away from accumulator.
 
How can I get the new mount?

I would like to know also. In addition:
  1. Current mount is wired to the GPS module, does it mean the new mount includes GPS module?
  2. For existing customers with parking guard, will you send the new mount free of charge or is it something they have to pay extra?
 
It's not about the size but rather about planning.

yes this is about planing.
the connector on Garmin is a iphone4 size 30pin connector, almost half length of nanoQ. to make the cameras smaller we have to make the connector smaller that is why we reduced the GPS connector from 4 pin to 3 pin and compact the pitches; otherwize there will be no space for microUSB and AVport.
and the new GPS mount will be used on several following models.

Back to the Parking Guard hardwire kit connection. When you use the Parking Guard function, you will keep the camera in vehicle and not take out frequently, so there should not be a problem to plug the cable to camera body, I think.
 
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