I assume the camera come with the regular means of powering, which is a plug that go into the 12 V socket in the dash / center console, that should be fine for when driving recording.
I think the problem only arise when people want to do parking guard too, or have the option to do that.
I think in this regard the systems that have the most problems will be the ones that rely on a 3 wire hard wire kit, the 2 wire approach ( constantly powered ) rely on the camera itself to figure out what mode to be in ( most often the G-sensor, so no activity on that for a while change to parking guard, activity on G - sensor change to regular drive mode )
What ever way of powering a dashcam to do parking guard there are a few ways to stop it or make sure the system to not deplete the car battery.
1: low voltage cut off, using this alone mean the camera will record as long as the battery are over that cut off voltage, the cut off voltage needed at least with lead / acid batteries should not be under 12.2 volts ( 50 % depleted lead / acid battery )
2: A timer, some also have this option, i use it myself set to 1 hour as i do not want to load my small car battery, and 1 hour cover all my shopping, at home i have CCTV on my parked car.
This timer cam be from minutes ( 30 i assume ) and up to a couple of days if the battery can last that long. my one camera only allow for 24 hours MAX on the timer.
The timer i can always up to more time, the low voltage are also set to 12.2 in my car, so even if my battery are small it can do a lot longer than 1 hour, but i have yet to park in a place where i feel that might be nice to do.
Downside to the traditional way of powering is some times / in some cars that 12 V dash can be powered all the time, others have it powered for a little while like new cars can have light ASO do, thats also fine as it shut down after a little while.
But the allays on sockets are a problem as then the camera get power all the time and so will also record all the time, and at least in a conventional car run down the battery.
I have heard that some times you can have that 12 V socket reprogrammed by the dealer to only be on while driving, but i am unsure if this go for any and all cars / brands.
Using the 12 V socket, means it can not be used to charge phones or power other stuff, though i think in most modern cars that get more and more irrelevant, BUT ! still something to be mindful about.
Powering from the OBD port can also be done, but are rarely done in dashcams, but it is a option for sure, not sure if there are any 3 party adapters that have a USB A plug so you could plug into that.
Though i am also not sure if that Thinkware system are a 12 V system or a 5 V system, still i do think both can be done from the OBD port, but it is something to be mindful of if you have to look for 3 party options.
I am getting a 2 channel system soon, it is however sort of a hybrid system as each camera have a SD card in it, the 2 sync up with BT, and also have WIFI, and each have their own power source ( 2 wire - hard wire )
So for that i will have to dive under my dashboard again and find another always on fuse to run those 2 cameras off ( i already piggy back on 2 other fuses down there, a always on one and a ACC one for use with conventional 3 wire hard wire kits )
Parking guard is nice, but also have its own set of challenges.
1: the cameras can be obscured by something ( rain droplets - dew - snow - frost, a unfortunate leaf landing on windscreen in front of camera lens )
2: power usage, dashcams dont use that much power but it all add up, also you have to drive to recharge battery to replenish what you have used while parked, so doing parking guard for 23.5 hours a day, every day, that is not going to happen.
3: if there is frost the camera will defrost near itself, but probably not enough for the lens to see out, but this will reveal the presence of the camera, which can be a problem.