Thoughts on my first dashcam ... Vico MF3 1440p HDR Hybrid 60-30fps.

Submariner Gold

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Location
Berkshire United Kingdom
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United Kingdom
Dash Cam
Vicovation MF3
Overall very pleased.

Initial observation, re accident fault proof. A MB S Class Coupe, with a wide, and longish bonnet, and a wide angle lens gives the perception one is overhanging the oncoming lane. Despite having only 150deg angle and a non fisheye look , one still gets that impression.
Scientifically its easy to prove, just measure the road, and then the width of the car, and proportionately one can work out you are not overhanging the white line.

So all good .. I just have to solve the Parking mode power issue.
Sadly mine has a moulded wire coming out of the cigar lighter plug, and nearly all the inexpensive LiFeP04 powered external banks seem to only have one or two USB outputs.
That would mean running another USB cable with a micro B USB plug on it ... up to the dashcams input. And swapping it and also moving the cigar socket end, from the cars socket to the power bank ... every time one parks and then putting it back ... so that is not viable.

The cleanest solution, is the Nextbase External Power pack because it has an integral 12V DC socke £30 , plus the mains 12V charger £20. So thats £50 for a 6000mA bank :(



,
 
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Overall very pleased.

Initial observation, re accident fault proof. A MB S Class Coupe, with a wide, and longish bonnet, and a wide angle lens gives the perception one is overhanging the oncoming lane. Despite having only 150deg angle and a non fisheye look , one still gets that impression.
Scientifically its easy to prove, just measure the road, and then the width of the car, and proportionately one can work out you are not overhanging the white line.

So all good .. I just have to solve the Parking mode power issue.
Sadly mine has a moulded wire coming out of the cigar lighter plug, and nearly all the inexpensive LiFeP04 powered external banks seem to only have one or two USB outputs.
That would mean running another USB cable with a micro B USB plug on it ... up to the dashcams input. And swapping it and also moving the cigar socket end, from the cars socket to the power bank ... every time one parks and then putting it back ... so that is not viable.

The cleanest solution, is the Nextbase External Power pack because it has an integral 12V DC socke £30 , plus the mains 12V charger £20. So thats £50 for a 6000mA bank :(
Hi, recently I'd installed my first dashcam too into a similar car (2017 S class saloon - W222). The lens angle is 155° and the whole bonnet is easily in view. I agree proof of staying within lane would need to be geometrical. Here's a test video at dusk -

I've mostly solved the power arrangement to suit my needs. Total cost under £30 for a 20,100mAh (true 14,900mAh at 5V, so theoretically 37 hrs powering my 0.4A dashcam). Parking mode is on by default with a 20+ hour powerbank, but if I don't want it on (e.g. when parked at home), then I just pull it's power cable out. Ideally, there'd be a slicker system that would not involve me touching any USB cables after setup, but, for example a button on my android phone so I could switch power on/off to the dashcam remotely.

Here's how it looks.
http://forums.mbclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/229014/

The powerbank is stored neatly and securely in the centre armrest box, using a discreet, custom made, cradle enabling me to easily swap my other fully charged powerbank, if needed (e.g. after extensive parking videoing and without a long drive to charge the powerbank up).

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/32696/

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk
 
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Hi, recently I'd installed my first dashcam too into a similar car (2017 S class saloon - W222). The lens angle is 155° and the whole bonnet is easily in view. I agree proof of staying within lane would need to be geometrical. Here's a test video at dusk -

I've mostly solved the power arrangement to suit my needs. Total cost under £30 for a 20,100mAh (true 14,900mAh at 5V, so theoretically 37 hrs powering my 0.4A dashcam). Parking mode is on by default with a 20+ hour powerbank, but if I don't want it on (e.g. when parked at home), then I just pull it's power cable out. Ideally, there'd be a slicker system that would not involve me touching any USB cables after setup, but, for example a button on my android phone so I could switch power on/off to the dashcam remotely.

Here's how it looks.
http://forums.mbclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/229014/

The powerbank is stored neatly and securely in the centre armrest box, using a discreet, custom made, cradle enabling me to easily swap my other fully charged powerbank, if needed (e.g. after extensive parking videoing and without a long drive to charge the powerbank up).

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/32696/

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Thanks so much.
Love your install, exactly the sort of thing I want, for slightly different reasons. Namely I am on the prowl for a replacement CL63 AMG with ultra low mileage. Hence I want it, so I can whip it all out very easily in 15mins, leaving zero marks/holes etc..
So I , like you dont want to yank around trim parts, imo even if done expertly, they always tend to creak and groan afterwards. Although mine is not new, at least its still totally silent in the cabin!
Very very useful, and may I say a great install.

Sadly I dont have a USB port in the glove box , which really makes life a lot easier.
ATM I have to have a horrible cable looping over the side if the centre console so 4” is visible.

And I also had problems at the top of the A Pillar, the trim between the A Pillar and the headlining is incredibly tight so I cant push the wire in between. Plus as its got an airbag in it and curtain airbags on the side ... I really dont want to mess with those bits of trim. So you can see 3.5” of cable in the groove between the 2 trim sections :(
But then its temporary.

Yep you have the front wing overhang view :):)

Interest to know is your backup battery Lithium ion or LiFePo4?
And does it charge and discharge at the same time?
 
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Hi, recently I'd installed my first dashcam too into a similar car (2017 S class saloon - W222). The lens angle is 155° and the whole bonnet is easily in view. I agree proof of staying within lane would need to be geometrical. Here's a test video at dusk -

I've mostly solved the power arrangement to suit my needs. Total cost under £30 for a 20,100mAh (true 14,900mAh at 5V, so theoretically 37 hrs powering my 0.4A dashcam). Parking mode is on by default with a 20+ hour powerbank, but if I don't want it on (e.g. when parked at home), then I just pull it's power cable out. Ideally, there'd be a slicker system that would not involve me touching any USB cables after setup, but, for example a button on my android phone so I could switch power on/off to the dashcam remotely.

Here's how it looks.
http://forums.mbclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/229014/

The powerbank is stored neatly and securely in the centre armrest box, using a discreet, custom made, cradle enabling me to easily swap my other fully charged powerbank, if needed (e.g. after extensive parking videoing and without a long drive to charge the powerbank up).

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/32696/

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Thanks so much.
Love your install, exactly the sort of thing I want, for slightly different reasons. Namely I am on the prowl for a replacement CL63 AMG with ultra low mileage. Hence I want it, so I can whip it all out very easily in 15mins, leaving zero marks/holes etc..
So I , like you dont want to yank around trim parts, imo even if done expertly, they always tend to creak and groan afterwards. Although mine is not new, at least its still totally silent in the cabin!
Very very useful, and may I say a great install.

Sadly I dont have a USB port in the glove box , which really makes life a lot easier.
ATM I have to have a horrible cable looping over the side if the centre console so 4” is visible.

And I also had problems at the top of the A Pillar, the trim between the A Pillar and the headlining is incredibly tight so I cant push the wire in between. Plus as its got an airbag in it and curtain airbags on the side ... I really dont want to mess with those bits of trim. So you can see 3.5” of cable in the groove between the 2 trim sections :(
But then its temporary.

Yep you have the front wing overhang view :):)

Interest to know is your backup battery Lithium ion or LiFePo4?
And does it charge and discharge at the same time?

Great car you are looking to get. How have you been finding the coupé so far?

Thanks for the compliments, I'm happy so far with the look and functionality - it's not distracting when I'm driving and normally passengers don't notice there's a dashcam running just above their normal field of view. Also it meant less cable as I wanted to keep everything passenger side.

Yes, likewise I wanted my install lightweight and easily removable, not for changing cars as in your case, but in case I changed dashcams, this being my first.

So I decided to not make any marks or holes in any part of the car.

The A pillar / headlining junction on my W222 is also very tight on mine, but I was able to push the single USB cable against the windscreen on the lengths (so not in the way of the airbags), with enough friction to hold it in around the corner, so it's totally hidden. Then there was enough friction at the foot of the windscreen to hold the cable as I pulled it taught around the base of the A pillar to the door opening.
c8170f10c5ffef7333d1f0ac867cc3bd.jpg
I'm pretty sure I added a 3M sticky cable clip there, then round behind the glovebox (a couple of cable ties there), then there is enough space on the horizontal run along the LED lighting strip, to (a) not get in the way of the light and (b) remain perfectly hidden. I used some sticky double-sided tape to hold it to the side of the panel. The only place it is then visible is up from there into the armrest box, but unless I drill a hole (which I don't want to do) there's no other way. It's only an inch of cable showing and virtually out of sight, so not a problem for me.

Next mechanical thing for me to do is to make a professional looking cover to the dashcam, mount and cable: so all is invisible from the inside. The cover I intend will be similar as much as possible with the existing factory-fitted sensor and camera cover (on the windscreen behind the mirror), but lightweight and removable. An additional benefit should be reduced reflections on video.

A requirement for both my powerbanks was "pass through" support, latterly because I wanted them used in my car. For safety's sake, I charge them only when I'm in the car. The older one has been very stable over the past two years. As it doesn't get hot in the car where I live (Lincolnshire) I'm not worried with all the scare stories around powerbanks with units that are well made, well reviewed and that I've used successfully for sufficiently long.

The one I bought recently is LiPo - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B01GJFNQYG
The one from two years ago, not sure - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B015IZW5RM
(Unfortunately Tapatalk is munging the URLs but the product IDs are the right ones).
Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk
 
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Great car you are looking to get. How have you been finding the coupé so far?

Thanks for the compliments, I'm happy so far with the look and functionality - it's not distracting when I'm driving and normally passengers don't notice there's a dashcam running just above their normal field of view. Also it meant less cable as I wanted to keep everything passenger side.

Yes, likewise I wanted my install lightweight and easily removable, not for changing cars as in your case, but in case I changed dashcams, this being my first.

So I decided to not make any marks or holes in any part of the car.

The A pillar / headlining junction on my W222 is also very tight on mine, but I was able to push the single USB cable against the windscreen on the lengths (so not in the way of the airbags), with enough friction to hold it in around the corner, so it's totally hidden. Then there was enough friction at the foot of the windscreen to hold the cable as I pulled it taught around the base of the A pillar to the door opening.
c8170f10c5ffef7333d1f0ac867cc3bd.jpg
I'm pretty sure I added a 3M sticky cable clip there, then round behind the glovebox (a couple of cable ties there), then there is enough space on the horizontal run along the LED lighting strip, to (a) not get in the way of the light and (b) remain perfectly hidden. I used some sticky double-sided tape to hold it to the side of the panel. The only place it is then visible is up from there into the armrest box, but unless I drill a hole (which I don't want to do) there's no other way. It's only an inch of cable showing and virtually out of sight, so not a problem for me.

Next mechanical thing for me to do is to make a professional looking cover to the dashcam, mount and cable: so all is invisible from the inside. The cover I intend will be similar as much as possible with the existing factory-fitted sensor and camera cover (on the windscreen behind the mirror), but lightweight and removable. An additional benefit should be reduced reflections on video.

A requirement for both my powerbanks was "pass through" support, latterly because I wanted them used in my car. For safety's sake, I charge them only when I'm in the car. The older one has been very stable over the past two years. As it doesn't get hot in the car where I live (Lincolnshire) I'm not worried with all the scare stories around powerbanks with units that are well made, well reviewed and that I've used successfully for sufficiently long.

The one I bought recently is LiPo - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B01GJFNQYG
The one from two years ago, not sure - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B015IZW5RM
(Unfortunately Tapatalk is munging the URLs but the product IDs are the right ones).
Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. Very useful.
Got to say after one new SL R129 500 and four new SL500s R230s in a row. Never thought I would move.
Admittedly the quality issues on the first two R230s had me in tears. So bad they replaced them.
The CL is excellent, drives like a sports car ... almost :).
No creaks and groans one gets with a softop. And a lot easier to get into. Plus its noce being able seat four. ( god help them in the back ... for kids only lol
The 5.5L is a huge upgrade on the 5.0L, feels like a 600 in comparison.
Only complaint is the pussy exhaust, virtually silent .. what a waste.
Half the reason for wanting one of the last CL63s, is they sound amazing. Plus of course the 2018 ones are only 4.7L.
I Hate this new downsizing trend. Personally wish they had sorted the proper 6.3L CL63 engine.

Hmm investigating all this has shown there is a 15A fuse in the 30A fuel pump fuse slot. Checked service history no mention of a fuel pump issue.
But the CL shares the same fuse diagram as the S Class, being only a few of them you do feel like the country cousin, where the Saloon due to a higher volume of sales must take precedence. :(
So is a mistake or what?
Not worried as 15A is a lot less than 30A so errrs on the safe side, and if it breaks down then its a Mobilo job.

I will check out your links for power banks most helpful.
 
Great car you are looking to get. How have you been finding the coupé so far?

Thanks for the compliments, I'm happy so far with the look and functionality - it's not distracting when I'm driving and normally passengers don't notice there's a dashcam running just above their normal field of view. Also it meant less cable as I wanted to keep everything passenger side.

Yes, likewise I wanted my install lightweight and easily removable, not for changing cars as in your case, but in case I changed dashcams, this being my first.

So I decided to not make any marks or holes in any part of the car.

The A pillar / headlining junction on my W222 is also very tight on mine, but I was able to push the single USB cable against the windscreen on the lengths (so not in the way of the airbags), with enough friction to hold it in around the corner, so it's totally hidden. Then there was enough friction at the foot of the windscreen to hold the cable as I pulled it taught around the base of the A pillar to the door opening.
c8170f10c5ffef7333d1f0ac867cc3bd.jpg
I'm pretty sure I added a 3M sticky cable clip there, then round behind the glovebox (a couple of cable ties there), then there is enough space on the horizontal run along the LED lighting strip, to (a) not get in the way of the light and (b) remain perfectly hidden. I used some sticky double-sided tape to hold it to the side of the panel. The only place it is then visible is up from there into the armrest box, but unless I drill a hole (which I don't want to do) there's no other way. It's only an inch of cable showing and virtually out of sight, so not a problem for me.

Next mechanical thing for me to do is to make a professional looking cover to the dashcam, mount and cable: so all is invisible from the inside. The cover I intend will be similar as much as possible with the existing factory-fitted sensor and camera cover (on the windscreen behind the mirror), but lightweight and removable. An additional benefit should be reduced reflections on video.

A requirement for both my powerbanks was "pass through" support, latterly because I wanted them used in my car. For safety's sake, I charge them only when I'm in the car. The older one has been very stable over the past two years. As it doesn't get hot in the car where I live (Lincolnshire) I'm not worried with all the scare stories around powerbanks with units that are well made, well reviewed and that I've used successfully for sufficiently long.

The one I bought recently is LiPo - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B01GJFNQYG
The one from two years ago, not sure - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B015IZW5RM
(Unfortunately Tapatalk is munging the URLs but the product IDs are the right ones).
Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. Very useful.
Got to say after one new SL R129 500 and four new SL500s R230s in a row. Never thought I would move.
Admittedly the quality issues on the first two R230s had me in tears. So bad they replaced them.
The CL is excellent, drives like a sports car ... almost :).
No creaks and groans one gets with a softop. And a lot easier to get into. Plus its noce being able seat four. ( god help them in the back ... for kids only lol
The 5.5L is a huge upgrade on the 5.0L, feels like a 600 in comparison.
Only complaint is the pussy exhaust, virtually silent .. what a waste.
Half the reason for wanting one of the last CL63s, is they sound amazing. Plus of course the 2018 ones are only 4.7L.
I Hate this new downsizing trend. Personally wish they had sorted the proper 6.3L CL63 engine.

Hmm investigating all this has shown there is a 15A fuse in the 30A fuel pump fuse slot. Checked service history no mention of a fuel pump issue.
But the CL shares the same fuse diagram as the S Class, being only a few of them you do feel like the country cousin, where the Saloon due to a higher volume of sales must take precedence. :(
So is a mistake or what?
Not worried as 15A is a lot less than 30A so errrs on the safe side, and if it breaks down then its a Mobilo job.

I will check out your links for power banks most helpful.
The late CL is my favourite Mercedes shape. Such presence. A real feeling of power and luxury, visually. I didn't get the same feeling from the new S-Class Coupé externally, although the interior is modern and special. Although I love my W222 I'm surprised how unsolid and plasticky some parts of the car are. Good luck with your search - be sure to post with pictures when you do!

The higher rated fuse does indeed look like someone changed it post-factory.

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk
 
Must confess I wasnt bowled over by the later 2017 S Coupe, with the big gaping air ducts, prefer the 2016 with the more slender sculptured front air ducts and the bar of LEDs across it. And of course the 5.5L biturbo.
Before they downgrade it to a pathetic 3.0 petrol and electric hybrid .... just dread the nightmare of issues thst will bring
:-/

I am looking for one with Exclusive Nappa leather. Had that on the last SL, when I ordered it, I thought it was a rip off extra. But when she arrived! .... my god the work involved ... every bit of trim was covered in nappa leather, right down to the tiny motion sensor casing. :(

I will post pics, but I am in no rush ... just looking for a real peachy one, FSH and under 12,000 miles, and totally unmarked.
I am delighted with the current one, so I don't have any pressure.
The Only fault Inhave, is I broke?? The removeable sprung loaded cupholder. I think when I took it out, I accidentally pressed the tounge that stands up. So its locked open!
Must admit I never drink in my car, so no loss!

Yes, I reckon someone must have swapped the 30A fuse. Strange it runs fine with a 15A fuse, and isnt even heat tarnished .
But at least its the safe way around.

I need to find an easy earth point, without pulling trim out. One thing the S classes are good at is firmly fixed trim!
 
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Just a thought on your install.
It looks much neater than mine, ref I have chosen to cross the wire at the top of the A Pillar.

But do check if you have an airbag in the A pillar. Mine has, and I was told to bring the wire down the A Pillar, in the door rubber i.e. totally away from the Airbag.
Initially I was going to bring it down by the windscreen glass, as I could just about squeeze it in.

But the Mercedes mechanic told me definitely not to do that, as if it went off; the airbag would pull the wire out and could severely cut the passengers face in a vertical line!

Is he right?? who knows, but I do remember someone, who had and e class airbag go off on them, saying it wasnt a fun day , as when the airbag hit her face ... she felt like Mike Tyson had whacked her.

So I guess it could act like a cheese wire. :-/. (only being pushed by the airbag rather than being pulled )
 
Just a thought on your install.
It looks much neater than mine, ref I have chosen to cross the wire at the top of the A Pillar.

But do check if you have an airbag in the A pillar. Mine has, and I was told to bring the wire down the A Pillar, in the door rubber i.e. totally away from the Airbag.
Initially I was going to bring it down by the windscreen glass, as I could just about squeeze it in.

But the Mercedes mechanic told me definitely not to do that, as if it went off; the airbag would pull the wire out and could severely cut the passengers face in a vertical line!

Is he right?? who knows, but I do remember someone, who had and e class airbag go off on them, saying it wasnt a fun day , as when the airbag hit her face ... she felt like Mike Tyson had whacked her.

So I guess it could act like a cheese wire. :-/. (only being pushed by the airbag rather than being pulled )
Good point. I've been careful to put the cable along the windscreen to the side of the airbag, but at the bottom of the A pillar it does run in the join with the dashboard, so theoretically the airbag force could push the cable out there and all around. The only way to guarantee safety is to take off the airbag fascia and get the cable 100% behind the airbag system. My MB main dealer won't do that work and I'm not yet ready to trust a specialist fitter as I'm not confident they'd have successful experience with these car models. Hmm. Food for thought. Worried about this now. Thanks though. I'd rather know I've got to find a better solution, than not.

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Good point. I've been careful to put the cable along the windscreen to the side of the airbag, but at the bottom of the A pillar it does run in the join with the dashboard, so theoretically the airbag force could push the cable out there and all around. The only way to guarantee safety is to take off the airbag fascia and get the cable 100% behind the airbag system. My MB main dealer won't do that work and I'm not yet ready to trust a specialist fitter as I'm not confident they'd have successful experience with these car models. Hmm. Food for thought. Worried about this now. Thanks though. I'd rather know I've got to find a better solution, than not.

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Hi
Because mine, and I heavily suspect yours has a similar “curtain” airbag. This concern might apply. The technician said if the wire goes between the top of the A Pillar and the headliner (which sadly wont push in nicely) then as the airbag expands and blows off the trim, the bag effectively expands underneath the wire. Worst case, the top of the trim clips it, and yanks the wire partially out of the dashcam and or tries to yank it out of the door seal but only a little bit i.e. to let the top of the trim squeeze past it.
I suspect your route was similar to my initial proposed route, i.e. squashed in the joint of the bottom of the A Pillar and the dashboard. ( much more covert) He insisted that placed like that, then the wire would have to accomdate the complete expansion of the bag. I.e. get yanked right out.
And thus it would definitely get trapped between the passenger and the airbag.

Like you I definitely dont want anyone messing deeply with the trim, especially around the airbag.

Personally I have no experience with airbags so just bowed to his experience.

Conversely one could argue with your route it could expand and trap the wire against the windscreen.
Also I am sure the Coupe door is a lot longer than the saloon, so maybe its a different scenario.

You can see why my Main dealer flatly refuses to add any none MB components LOL
I.e. if they havent been tried and tested and certified as safe by MB they wont fit them! :):)
 
Incidentally have you looked (or posted) at the Mercedes forum? I'm gr1nch there too
Here's a CL63 search on there...

http://forums.mbclub.co.uk/search/344048/?q=CL63&t=post&o=date

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Thanks as you can see, not many.
I have a couple of MB dealers keeping their eye out. A bit more expensive, but you then get 2 years full MB AMG warranty thats worth nearly £4K to buy, or without it a a good £8K in expected repairs LOL
Ideal time would be next december when the new houses is almost finished ... prefer all the heavy building is over and she can just slide i to the new double garage.
Only looking now as both said they were so few and far between it might take a hear to find a oerfect peach.
So if one presents itself I will go for it.
Until then I love my current Non AMG one, so there is no rush. Its only fault is I bust the stupid pop up cupholder.
A tip dont ever compress them when you take them out .. they lock themselves in the expanded position, and cost over £100 ridiculous!.
:)
 
Incidentally have you looked (or posted) at the Mercedes forum? I'm gr1nch there too
Here's a CL63 search on there...

http://forums.mbclub.co.uk/search/344048/?q=CL63&t=post&o=date

Sent from my G3112 using Tapatalk

Thanks as you can see, not many.
I have a couple of MB dealers keeping their eye out. A bit more expensive, but you then get 2 years full MB AMG warranty thats worth nearly £4K to buy, or without it a a good £8K in expected repairs LOL
Ideal time would be next december when the new houses is almost finished ... prefer all the heavy building is over and she can just slide i to the new double garage.
Only looking now as both said they were so few and far between it might take a hear to find a oerfect peach.
So if one presents itself I will go for it.
Until then I love my current Non AMG one, so there is no rush. Its only fault is I bust the stupid pop up cupholder.
A tip dont ever compress them when you take them out .. they lock themselves in the expanded position, and cost over £100 ridiculous!.
:)
Can you remove your cupholder? A whole back, I dropped an SD card down the gap there (it holds speed camera POIs that show on the satnav) and thought it lost forever, but lo, a click and the entire single unit of two cupholders nearly slides out. Once the unit is out, I'd be confident of fixing it.

Got any external pics of your current car? Here's a couple of mine.
5c671b77835617b81349c8a5959287d7.jpg
a8c4d80daebc68a8e5fc8dffa7fb4c0b.jpg


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Hi
Here is the cupholder comes out beautifully
43F7FC88-7F87-4C8C-92DB-AFDDC8226194.jpeg
As you can see its stuck in the Up position

570074FA-2E38-4D0A-B096-D57538C19BBB.jpeg
I think I squeezed it together when it was out and accidentally pressed or pulled this release lever.



ED8326B2-96D4-49EE-B446-4BAE4A0329F4.jpeg

Not a smart thing to do.
 
Only pic I have with me on this ipad ( out atm )
Is the engine bay ... before it was cleaned up
40E7083A-187F-4235-95D4-70C0AF61834E.jpeg

Not particularly exciting
But the 5.5L does the job
 
Cars mere mortal Danes can not afford, and if they can they probably pay the same for it as you would pay for a Pagani or something, here its pretty much pay for 2 cars ( at least ) and get one due to taxes

I have tried the 5 and 600 series MERCs in the 90ties + big Audis and BMW's, pretty awesome cars, also tried a Daimler double six that i nearly wrapped around a sign due to it being winter and me being too childish with the pedal, but i saved it and it did reach a dealership at least without me ruining it.

I would buy a Marauder for daily driver if i won the lottery, and if i won enough to move to a more sane country i might get a track day car too.
I do it this way as i fully acknowledge i still have a lead foot and i would like to keep my licenses, a nice MEC like yours will probably cost me my license within a year.

marauder-south-africa.png

But i drive this now
Suzuki~Splash~(2).jpg
 
Looks like the lever was meant to go up, but didn't go down? Any chance of taking the thing apart and put it right? If not then I guess there'd be some available in car breakers or eBay.

Only pic I have with me on this ipad ( out atm ) Is the engine bay ... before it was cleaned up
View attachment 35776
Not particularly exciting
But the 5.5L does the job
Nice. My engine bay is fully covered, not possible to see any components at all! The next engine I'd look for in 5+ years time, is a petrol V8 or all electric.

Yours looks very nice and spanky new :):):
Love the scenery ... where was that?
The photos were from a grand tour from Belgium through Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Germany and back. Specifically the lake was one in the Lake Como region where we stayed for a few days and the other at the Livinio pass as the Stelvio was closed due to the weather.
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Lovely areas that I'd highly recommend. Pretty sure I got diesel for way less than 1€/litre at Livinio at the best petrol station in the world (views, price, music, dogs) [emoji16].

One of the main uses of the car for me is as a GT in the true sense of the word. I wanted to be able to drive long distances in comfort, space, reliability and safety. Perversely the only Merc badged GT, the two-seater AMG GT, is not a true GT at all, but a roadster and would be a nightmare for me and the wife on 2 week 3000km grand tour across different terrains and weather.

Cars mere mortal Danes can not afford, and if they can they probably pay the same for it as you would pay for a Pagani or something, here its pretty much pay for 2 cars ( at least ) and get one due to taxes

I have tried the 5 and 600 series MERCs in the 90ties + big Audis and BMW's, pretty awesome cars, also tried a Daimler double six that i nearly wrapped around a sign due to it being winter and me being too childish with the pedal, but i saved it and it did reach a dealership at least without me ruining it.

I would buy a Marauder for daily driver if i won the lottery, and if i won enough to move to a more sane country i might get a track day car too.
I do it this way as i fully acknowledge i still have a lead foot and i would like to keep my licenses, a nice MEC like yours will probably cost me my license within a year.

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But i drive this now
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A colleague of mine at the place I finished working at in Belgium was Danish and when he told me the car taxes you guys face there I was amazed. He thought Belgian cars were so cheap and snapped up a new one (Opel estate with extras) faster than anyone.

Car purchasing in the UK is very advanced compared to Belgium (and I would guess most of Europe) with all sorts of creative ways to encourage owners to trade up, trade in, buy extra cars, etc. Insurance also can be ridiculously cheap as is road tax for ultra-low emission vehicles. However our roads are getting clogged up and hard to maintain by this excess of vehicles. Driving in England isn't generally a joy (unless you live in Lincolnshire [emoji3]), as it often it's in, say, France.

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Back to one of the original issues which bugs me too....

So all good .. I just have to solve the Parking mode power issue.
Sadly mine has a moulded wire coming out of the cigar lighter plug, and nearly all the inexpensive LiFeP04 powered external banks seem to only have one or two USB outputs.
That would mean running another USB cable with a micro B USB plug on it ... up to the dashcams input. And swapping it and also moving the cigar socket end, from the cars socket to the power bank ... every time one parks and then putting it back ... so that is not viable.
I've been looking for a solution to this (a switched USB cable) and just found it.
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So I'll put that as nearly as I can, in my central console box, attached to the powerbank USB output socket, then to the USB cable which runs from there up to the dashcam. So I'll be able to switch off/on the dashcam at will, with the power source from the powerbank, recharged by the car (or the house).

Power links over USB cables will then be:

Car -> ultra short, high-capacity USB cable -> Powerbank -> USB switch -> 5m USB cable -> dashcam

I'm ordering a couple of USB testers as they advertise an on/off switch so might be a useful alternative when I want to generate power usage readings Inc discharge times.
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All products are free shippingfrom AliExpress so may take a month or so to arrive!

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USB switch works perfectly. It took a week to arrive from China. Tested, then fitted to my car in the glove box, inserted between the powerbank and the USB lead to the dashcam, which can now easily be switched on/off with the dashcam hidden.

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