Viofo A 129 duo 3 Wire ACC Hardwire Kit Cable HK3 problem

[luchun]

My bad, car is fabia 2006..car battery 8 months old. I drive 30 minutes, then record (constant, low bitrate) for 10 hours, then drive 30 minutes to home
As 3 hardwire kit not worked well and cut off to soon, I am now using Rhundo RS 20 S..and just want to know is setting 12 V cut off ok for my car battery.
Today I have tested viofo a129 duo (low bitrate recording) powered through Rhundo, and after 10 hours, it was 12,2 V left displayed on Rhundo.

 

[Sadoka]

In my opinion the most likely scenario is that driving time is not long enough to fully charge the battery.

Yeah it happens a lot! Car only used for groceries 1x per week lol.

My bad, car is fabia 2006..car battery 8 months old. I drive 30 minutes, then record (constant, low bitrate) for 10 hours, then drive 30 minutes to home
As 3 hardwire kit not worked well and cut off to soon, I am now using Rhundo RS 20 S..and just want to know is setting 12 V cut off ok for my car battery.
Today I have tested viofo a129 duo (low bitrate recording) powered through Rhundo, and after 10 hours, it was 12,2 V left displayed on Rhundo.

Oh okay! So your car battery is pretty much new, so that is not very likely a problem. Your driving trips of 30 minutes before are ok too, sure it could be longer but it’s ok. And then 10 hours low Bitrate is ok too, your battery is probably like 40A I guess.

Because you drive an SDI diesel, probably did not change the glow plugs in the last 5 or 10 years, the alternator might be worn a little and the capacity of the battery is likely around 40A, I would advise 12,2V. You could do 12V but you risk wearing out the battery in 1 maybe 2 years and destroying your alternator, which is expensive.

So 12,2V to be safe, 12V if you’re feeling adventurous

 

[NomadTech]

It is quite difficult to explain the inner workings of an alternator and dead battery plus electronics to most people because it might not all make sense to you, the design and rules may seem crazy and dumb.

But let me explain it like this:
A battery with a low voltage will try and charge itself as quickly as possible. The Alternator is basically a slave to the battery and delivers what the battery demands, trying to charge the low 11V battery with voltages up to even 16 or 17V! And your ECU in your car might only support 14 or max 15V.

Meaning, that when the car starts, your dashboard might light up like a Christmas tree and send you warnings like ESP not working, Airbag disabled, traction control disabled, park distance control not working etc.

After a while, maybe 10 minutes, the warnings disappear and your car starts working as intended. Because the alternator drops voltage in the range of the ECU.

But in the mean while, the higher voltage might have damaged or fried sensitive components like Airbag computers/sensors, ESP systems or something basic like a power folding mirror.

Yes you have fuses in a car and generally there are a lot of systems that protect your electric equipment but it doesn’t always work. A 30 Amp fuse for example can handle loads up to 35 or sometimes even 40 Amps. In a very short burst (1-20 milliseconds) , it isn’t an issue, but with prolonged exposure (1 minute to 30 minutes) it becomes a problem and your fuse does not really protect you.

You pretend to know but you don't.
Battery is basically just used to start the car. Once it started, everything else runs off the alternator. Voltage is controlled by a voltage relay (usually built into the alternator).
Low voltage on the battery can prevent starting the car, but will not damage anything.
Go back to school and learn. Stop spreading bad information.
VIOFO hardware kit works just right.

 

[NomadTech]

Today I have tested viofo a129 duo (low bitrate recording) powered through Rhundo, and after 10 hours, it was 12,2 V left displayed on Rhundo

That's OK with camera running for 10 hours. What's happening is that in Europe cars have small engines to save on gas/diesel and as such they do not need a large battery. Having a small battery means it will charge faster to full capacity but it will also last shorter under a continuous load (camera in this case). You can try 12 V on the hardwire kit and see if you can start the car in the morning.
The alternative would be a power bank.

 

[SawMaster]

I guess this is as much "trivia" as anything else now, but "lunchun" could be right about charging voltages on cars which use mechanical voltage regulators- something I last saw in the early 70's, and now even the replacement parts for those old cars are electronic. If you know what you're doing, those old regulators can be adjusted to give whatever voltage and amperage your system is capable of delivering and many a fool boiled the electrolyte out of their battery playing around with them back then when their charging problems were elsewhere

That doesn't happen now. Almost never does an electronic regulator overcharge; the usual failure mode for them is a total loss of charging- they either work perfectly or they don't work at all. Most (if not all) cars now also interface the regulator with the car's computers to optimize charging and to prevent the computers from coming to harm from charging systems operating out-of-spec. Of the dozens of cars I've checked, none has shown over 14.3V, even when trying to charge a totally dead or faulty battery. That's well within the range of what car computers are designed to handle.

I love the simplicity of the old stuff, but I gotta say that electronic voltage regulation is one thing which has proven to be one of the greatest advances in automotive technology I've ever seen- it's nearly perfect in every way. Car batteries never had it so good Now only if they'd put all of them in a cooler environment; high under-hood temps are the main culprit of shortened battery life in normal operation these days.

Phil

 

[Sadoka]

You pretend to know but you don't.
Battery is basically just used to start the car. Once it started, everything else runs off the alternator. Voltage is controlled by a voltage relay (usually built into the alternator).
Low voltage on the battery can prevent starting the car, but will not damage anything.
Go back to school and learn. Stop spreading bad information.
VIOFO hardware kit works just right.

Wow you are rude!

Sure, how about you google low voltage battery and alternator and then we talk again

The only one pretending to know anything and in need of going back to school seems to be you.

Can a weak battery destroy an alternator?

I've heard a story that a weak vehicle battery can destroy an alternator or cause an alternator to fail early. Is this true, or is it largely fiction?

mechanics.stackexchange.com

Low Battery Voltage Can Destroy Your Starter | 4 Things To Check

Low voltage battery can destroy your starter. Ensure your starter is getting the power it needs with these 4 simple steps.

www.elreg.com

But since you obviously know everything oh mighty American, I will stop and try to help you guys with my bad info, good luck!

 

[NomadTech]

Wow you are rude!

Sure, how about you google low voltage battery and alternator and then we talk again

The only one pretending to know anything and in need of going back to school seems to be you.

Can a weak battery destroy an alternator?

I've heard a story that a weak vehicle battery can destroy an alternator or cause an alternator to fail early. Is this true, or is it largely fiction?

mechanics.stackexchange.com

Low Battery Voltage Can Destroy Your Starter | 4 Things To Check

Low voltage battery can destroy your starter. Ensure your starter is getting the power it needs with these 4 simple steps.

www.elreg.com

But since you obviously know everything oh mighty American, I will stop and try to help you guys with my bad info, good luck!

Thank you. Good decision.
I looked up your links and they tell you no facts, just questions and speculations. What I'm telling you are facts.
And by the way, I am from Europe.

 

[NomadTech]

need of going back to school seems to be you

It's a little too late in life for me. And it's not much that I can add to my masters in EE and Automation.

 

[NomadTech]

I love the simplicity of the old stuff

Indeed, but they also died quicker. I had one dying on me and leaving me stranded in Germany (in the 80's). Luckily I had an electronic one as spare built by myself.

Now only if they'd put all of them in a cooler environment

They're trying by redirecting the airflow through the engine compartment and re-positioning components. And also components are rated for higher temperatures.

 

[SawMaster]

Indeed, but they also died quicker

True, but the fixes are generally a lot cheaper and easier to DIY even if they have to be applied more frequently. Today's improved efficiency comes with hidden prices, and for me I prefer to be able to spend less time and money getting someone else to fix my vehicles and do that myself. But for the average person this probably isn't the same. So to each their own way with safe and happy motoring wished for all

Phil

 

[RavenManiac]

But since you obviously know everything oh mighty American, I will stop and try to help you guys with my bad info, good luck!

Gentlemen, please. Remember, we are allies and I love the great people of Belgium.