Viofo A139 Pro Won’t Enter Parking Mode w/PWC8

rcg530 said:
I can understand how they might want you to test that configuration. That takes your car completely out of the issue. If pin #2 is still providing power with it disconnected from your car, it's 100% a PowerCell 8 failure/problem. That test is just the more extreme version of the test I suggested to make sure your car's charging power is turned off to the PowerCell 8.
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Ok well now I’m stumped. I just got to my car at work, and tested voltage at pin #2 with the pack completely unplugged, and it’s not reading any voltage. But when I plug back in the power source, it reads voltage, even though my car is off and has not been powered on for hours…. I’m loosing my mind over this now…
 
_DashCamGuy_ said:
Ok well now I’m stumped. I just got to my car at work, and tested voltage at pin #2 with the pack completely unplugged, and it’s not reading any voltage. But when I plug back in the power source, it reads voltage, even though my car is off and has not been powered on for hours…. I’m loosing my mind over this now…
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I would now test the power source you're plugging the PowerCell 8 into in your vehicle. The symptoms suggest the car power source is not turning off immediately when you turn off the vehicle's ignition switch [possibly due to RAP feature?]. There could still be something weird going on inside of the PowerCell 8 when it's connected to a switched accessory power source and ground from the vehicle, but that seems unlikely.
 
rcg530 said:
I would now test the power source you're plugging the PowerCell 8 into in your vehicle. The symptoms suggest the car power source is not turning off immediately when you turn off the vehicle's ignition switch [possibly due to RAP feature?]. There could still be something weird going on inside of the PowerCell 8 when it's connected to a switched accessory power source and ground from the vehicle, but that seems unlikely.
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But how could that be, if my car has been completely off for hours?

I could change the fuse location to a different ACC fuse (still currently using the radio fuse), any recommendations? Vehicle is a 2022 Toyota Corolla Hatchback for reference if that helps.
 
_DashCamGuy_ said:
But how could that be, if my car has been completely off for hours?

I could change the fuse location to a different ACC fuse (still currently using the radio fuse), any recommendations? Vehicle is a 2022 Toyota Corolla Hatchback for reference if that helps.
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I don't have any car specific fuse socket recommendations to provide charging power to the PowerCell 8 [or any other similar dash camera battery packs that require switched/accessory charging power] since I do not recommend using a fuse tap to supply charging power to a dash camera battery pack. That recommendation is based on how many amps the battery pack charging operation can consume which can overtax the pre-existing circuit/wiring supplying power to the fuse box fuse socket that the fuse tap is installed into. BlackboxMyCar and other sellers of those type of dash camera battery packs will show using a fuse tap as their default method of getting the "high amp" charging feature to work for their battery pack.

My reviews of the PowerCell 8 battery pack and other similar style battery packs contain a recommendation to run a power feed from the vehicle's battery with an inline fuse near the battery. The switched power requirement is achieved by running that new power wire from the battery/inline fuse to a 4-pin relay [via pin 30]. The control circuit for the relay [pins 85 and 86 - one is switched power and the other is a ground - see relay documentation] can safely obtain switched power using a fuse tap since relay's control circuit only draws 100 mA to 150 mA. The output 12V power from the relay [via pin 87] is connected to the dash camera battery pack for its charging power.

The best I can suggest is to test how the fuse box fuse socket you're using now behaves with respect to when power is an is not provided by the fuse socket. If the fuse socket is truly not providing power as soon as the vehicle's ignition switch has been turn off [or push button system pressed to turn off the engine], then the PowerCell 8 should not be providing power on pin #2 to the dash camera.

You could try another power source for the PowerCell 8 by using the cigarette lighter power adapter [CLA]. That eliminates the fuse box side of this installation for the test. This is assuming your car has a 12V power port/cigarette lighter port to plug in the CLA for the PowerCell 8 and that the power provided by that power port is switched accessory power [most newer Toyotas tend to have switched power via their 12V power ports].
 
rcg530 said:
I don't have any car specific fuse socket recommendations to provide charging power to the PowerCell 8 [or any other similar dash camera battery packs that require switched/accessory charging power] since I do not recommend using a fuse tap to supply charging power to a dash camera battery pack. That recommendation is based on how many amps the battery pack charging operation can consume which can overtax the pre-existing circuit/wiring supplying power to the fuse box fuse socket that the fuse tap is installed into. BlackboxMyCar and other sellers of those type of dash camera battery packs will show using a fuse tap as their default method of getting the "high amp" charging feature to work for their battery pack.

My reviews of the PowerCell 8 battery pack and other similar style battery packs contain a recommendation to run a power feed from the vehicle's battery with an inline fuse near the battery. The switched power requirement is achieved by running that new power wire from the battery/inline fuse to a 4-pin relay [via pin 30]. The control circuit for the relay [pins 85 and 86 - one is switched power and the other is a ground - see relay documentation] can safely obtain switched power using a fuse tap since relay's control circuit only draws 100 mA to 150 mA. The output 12V power from the relay [via pin 87] is connected to the dash camera battery pack for its charging power.

The best I can suggest is to test how the fuse box fuse socket you're using now behaves with respect to when power is an is not provided by the fuse socket. If the fuse socket is truly not providing power as soon as the vehicle's ignition switch has been turn off [or push button system pressed to turn off the engine], then the PowerCell 8 should not be providing power on pin #2 to the dash camera.

You could try another power source for the PowerCell 8 by using the cigarette lighter power adapter [CLA]. That eliminates the fuse box side of this installation for the test. This is assuming your car has a 12V power port/cigarette lighter port to plug in the CLA for the PowerCell 8 and that the power provided by that power port is switched accessory power [most newer Toyotas tend to have switched power via their 12V power ports].
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Understood. I’ll go back to my fuse box and try to confirm there is no power being supplied to the PC8. I unfortunately don’t have a cig power adapter for the PC8 as one did not come with it.
 
_DashCamGuy_ said:
Understood. I’ll go back to my fuse box and try to confirm there is no power being supplied to the PC8. I unfortunately don’t have a cig power adapter for the PC8 as one did not come with it.
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Interior fuse box... #29 P/Outlet No 1, 15 amp ...or should be in most if not all cases, the "power outlet / cigarette lighter" power source. Even if there is no CL mounted at the dash, there may be a CL in the rear or elsewhere, especially as it is a hatchback. If not position 29 then look for the "P/Outlet..." nomenclature.

Fuse location on modern cars are a PITA due to ECU devices and powering multiple, non-similar devices on a circuit. That radio circuit may contain the power for any bluetooth, satellite, remote device also. If on a RAP type circuit a aux battery BMS may sense the power on ignition off and the BMS will hold the circuit up. Unless one has the factory sketch for the power circuits it is all a guess sometimes.
 
lufa6977 said:
Interior fuse box... #29 P/Outlet No 1, 15 amp ...or should be in most if not all cases, the "power outlet / cigarette lighter" power source. Even if there is no CL mounted at the dash, there may be a CL in the rear or elsewhere, especially as it is a hatchback. If not position 29 then look for the "P/Outlet..." nomenclature.

Fuse location on modern cars are a PITA due to ECU devices and powering multiple, non-similar devices on a circuit. That radio circuit may contain the power for any bluetooth, satellite, remote device also. If on a RAP type circuit a aux battery BMS may sense the power on ignition off and the BMS will hold the circuit up. Unless one has the factory sketch for the power circuits it is all a guess sometimes.
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Thanks for that info, still going to mess with my fuses today. I do see I have only 1 P/OUTLET fuse I can use.

Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate today.
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Alright guys. Looks like all I needed was to fully understand how RAP type circuits and fuses work… nothing is wrong with the PC8. Once I moved the PC8 power source fuse tap from the radio fuse to the P/OUTLET No.1 location, parking mode started working correctly.

I feel like a fool, but also appreciate you guys walking me through all of this. I think I learned some new things these last few days.
 
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