20 second gap in recordings

YES adapter that came with camera , Its NOT a power issue
 
Ok just wanted to be clear, the in car USB port is not a suitable power source so that isn't a reliable test, but the included power supply would be fine, the problems you are having are most often either power or memory related, always worthwhile to eliminate what you can check to make sure you rule out any obvious things first
 
you be surprised how many times we have tried to troubleshoot someones dashcam, and then after pages of talking back and forth, find out the person use some alternative means of power, and then tell the person to use the original power source, and BOOM the problem is gone.
Likewise memory cards can be mind boggling too, and cause all kinds of weird problems or if you are lucky like i have been a few times, just die before you get to fill the card 1 - 2 times.

Also in regard to write speeds, some times i have had cameras, where looking at the footage generated in a 3 minute segment i can calculate that the camera only write like 5 - 10 MB every second, but still the damn thing need a write speed of +30 MB second to work,,,,, and i am like ??????
 
Well I have tried to different sd cards . The one I bought with camera a Samsung Pro Endurance 64 gig and then an older card I had from my action camera which is a sandisk 16 gig card. Then tried two different power sources. Not sure why the built in USB port would not be suitable but that is what I used to test if a power issue. Powers my phone fine when I use google maps with my Sync 3 system . BUT looking at the files I see no power loss. To me it looks like the camera starts having trouble after a while with these shorter than 3 minute clips and it happens after about 10 minutes of camera running.

Maybe its related to the GPS module? I have been plugging NOW directly into camera I first was plugging power into GPS module then after it being suggested to plug direct into camera itself. which didn't help.

Other things I could try is go back to the older firmware I did update camera to 2.0. Camera came with an older firmware version. I don't remember the older firmware number. BUT since I have a new camera coming I wont be doing much else with it. I think I made a reasonable try to solve problem.

When I get new camera not sure If I will update firmware maybe just test camera first. Assuming it has older than 2.0 firmware installed .

How many here use the new 2.0 firmware? Not sure how long 2.0 has been out?
 
What I was trying to get across is, even though you are using the supplied adapter, is it a plug that goes into the cars power socket ?

These plugs tend to have a couple of side negative strips and a sprung tip that reaches, or is supposed to reach to the bottom of the power socket.

I have seen many plugs where the metal tip only just reaches to the bottom of the power socket and any reasonable vibration can cause a disconnection. That brief disconnection is probably enough to cause a file termination.
 
dc9mm said:
When I get new camera not sure If I will update firmware maybe just test camera first. Assuming it has older than 2.0 firmware installed .
Click to expand...
Test it first, using default settings as much as possible, then there is minimal chance that you are causing any problems!
If you modify it, you can never be sure that you can get it back into original state.

Generally these are reliable cameras, so it is unlikely you will have a problem, but until we work out what the current problem is nobody can be sure of anything.
 
Where possible, it's best to use a wall-outlet powered phone charger to do diagnostic testing of dashcams. These supply ample constant clean power so eliminate any possibility of powering problems. Second best but usually adequate is to use the cam's supplied PS after making certain it seems to be functioning properly.

Some cams take a momentary drop of power in stride and some don't. Car USB ports often don't supply enough power for a dashcam, and rather than presuming yours does, best to know for certain by using the phone charger. Also note that Viofo cams like a more robust PS than most for reliability, even though the numbers do not show a higher-than-usual amperage draw. This has been long ago found by many users testing the cams, and Viofo supplies a more powerful PS than usual because of this.

Done right these are reliable cams; done wrong they aren't. Powering problems are one of the top two sources of issues with dashcams so eliminate the possibility of that first, then you can properly diagnose from there.

Phil
 
Well I tried another SD card this time a Lexer 16 gig 300x card. I only did a short drive then parked for an hour. Came back it went into Park Mode. My Power port keeps powering for about 1.5 hour before shutting power off. So it had power the whole time I was away. I took abouit 25 minutes to go into park mode. it varies on how long it takes to go into park mode.. No idea why. After getting back it started right away doing 1 minute clips instead of 3 minute clips . Each clip had missing time skip between the 1 minute clips. So maybe Park Mode has something to do with it? BUT it has happend in the past with no park mode involved. Plus I have had it come out of Park Mode in past and start recording correct 3 minute clips with no time skip. It appears the ONLY time I get skips in time is when it records 1 minute clips which camera is set to record 3 minute time clips . So NOW its easy for me to find the time skip clips. There always 1 minute clips which are easy to see in windows explorer afterward. .

looking at files from a few days ago I see I went into park mode came out of Park Mode then started recording 3 minute clips for about 25 minutes then it does a 2 minute clip then 1 minute clips for the next 15 minutes I was driving. in thos 2 minute and 1 minute clips I have skipped time problem but none in the 3 minute clips.

Will see if new camera fixes problem
 
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Yeah Lexar use to be okay, but then memory division was sold off, and new owners have shaved a lot of corners so the brand are rolling downhill into oblivion.

Too bad you are not down the street from me, or i would have a couple of alternative memory cards to try out.
 
The point of the THIRD card was just to make sure its NOT the cards fault. Happens with all three cards. The Samsung Pro Endurance is what I bought for the camera. Like I said will see what happens with the new camera. Not sure when I will get that. I hope this coming week.
 
More testing has revealed to me. If the camera goes into Park Mode then I come back to car and start driving again it always does the 1 minute clips with skips in time. BUT if I power camera off then start camera and start driving it does NOT do this. I found this by accident by being away from car long enough for the Cigarette power port to power off. My power port stays on for about 1 hour 20 minutes on my Ford. I have latest firmware 2.0. I get new camera tomorrow according to amazon. I will see what firmware version and if its the old version leave it alone. See if I can duplicate problem in new camera. If it doesn't I will leave old firmware and stay away from any firmware update.

Other wise I will have to always remember to power camera on and off if it goes into park mode and am not gone long enough for my cars power port to power off. which I find to be a pain as am sure to forget to do this occasionally. Not sure I will keep the camera if this is the case. This sounds like something that could be fixed via firmware BUT only if they are even aware of this issue.
 
Thats one of the problems with 2 wire parking guard ( i recon ) after parking it take a while for the camera to go to parking mode, the 3 wire cameras ( well my SG9663DR at least ) it change to parking the second i power off my car ( hard wired ) so if i dont want that all i have to do is long press the remote button and it will shut down,,,,,, if i dont it will stay in parking guard for the 1 hour duration i have set.

Lighter sockets in dashboards you some times can get reprogrammed to work in another way if you dont like it to be on permanent or like yours for a period of time.
If not hard wire is always a option,,,,,,,, though with smart cars ( also wire looms ) even that can some times be a bit tricky too.
 
Received replacement camera 2 days ago. I can make it do the same as first. So if you own a car that keeps power on all the time or at least like mine about 1 hour 20 minute (Most ford pickups it stays on) and have Park Mode turned on you will have this same issue. The way around it is to turn the camera off and on again then it comes out of Park Mode. It appears it stays in some kind of weird Park Mode and only records 1 minute clips with missing time between clips. This is not great BUT I guess I will live with it . I now have a cigarette lighter splitter with and on off switch so I don't have to reach up and hold the power button down to get camera to turn off and back on. Makes it a lot easier to power camera off and on again.

So this is a issue with the camera. I can repeat it any time I want . Just let the car sit long enough to go into Park Mode in my case the time varies from as fast as 10 minute to so far as long as 35 minutes. This is when it stops writing to the SD card. Then once it starts writing to the SDcard you get the 1 minute clip length problem.

At least I was able to figure it out. It was NEVER a power issue or SD card issue. Its just how the camera works. Not sure on the Hardwire power kit. Does it some how tell the camera when to go into and out of Park Mode?, if so HOW? Does the Hardwire Module that drops the fusebox from 12.4 volts to 5 volts also send a signal to the camera when it sees the cars voltage drop from 14.6 volts (typical voltage running off alternator) to 12.4 volts (typical car battery voltage is 12.4 volts). Then when the Hardwire Control module sees the 14.6 volts again send signal to camera to take it out of Park Mode?
 
dc9mm said:
Does the Hardwire Module that drops the fusebox from 12.4 volts to 5 volts also send a signal to the camera when it sees the cars voltage drop from 14.6 volts (typical voltage running off alternator) to 12.4 volts (typical car battery voltage is 12.4 volts). Then when the Hardwire Control module sees the 14.6 volts again send signal to camera to take it out of Park Mode?
Click to expand...
hardwire kit has an ACC wire to know when the car is on or off, nothing to do with voltages
 
A little late to the party, but I think I've found the root cause of your problem: Parking Mode. More specifically, the inability to exit Parking Mode once you resume driving.

The 45 sec clips are the prebuffered Auto Event Detection clips, when the camera senses motion in its FOV. You can confirm by resizing the filename column to see the full filenames and checking if those clips end in "P".

Having switched from the A119 v2 to the v3 recently and reading up on the buffered Parking Mode the v3 offers, it seems, the v3 has trouble exiting Parking Mode when you're not using the 3-wire hardwire kit. I confirmed it myself by playing with the USB supply and the HK3 the last couple of days (while waiting for fuse taps to arrive). From my bench tests it's clear HK3 is the way to go if you want to enter/exit Parking Mode reliably and automatically.

If you're averse to hardwiring, a workaround is to manually reboot the camera each time you resume driving after parking. Pulling the 12V -> USB power supply from the socket and reinserting it is the fastest way I can think of.

Adding to these woes is a bug in some firmware builds that apparently doesn't let you exit Parking Mode. Without HK3, the cam is supposed to go back to normal driving mode when the GPS senses your speed is above 8kmph, but this bug apparently prevents that from happening.

dc9mm said:
Just let the car sit long enough to go into Park Mode in my case the time varies from as fast as 10 minute to so far as long as 35 minutes. This is when it stops writing to the SD card. Then once it starts writing to the SDcard you get the 1 minute clip length problem.
Click to expand...
The time varies since without HK3, the cam depends on a 5 minute continuous period of no motion (visual/vibrations).

dc9mm said:
Not sure on the Hardwire power kit. Does it some how tell the camera when to go into and out of Park Mode?, if so HOW?
Click to expand...
The hardwire kit monitors the Acc wire to determine if the key is on or off. With the key off, you can't drive, so you are assumed to have parked, and it goes into Parking Mode (in about 5 secs).
When it senses power back on the Acc wire, it knows you're ready to drive, so the camera goes back to Driving Mode.
The voltage monitoring is only to prevent discharging the battery below the set value.
 
This issue has been solved as best it can for me. I use Low Bit mode for Park Mode. it goes into Park Mode Low Bit in about 1 to 2 minutes. I can tell by file size as its about 1/6th the size. Then it comes out of Park Mode Low Bit in about 10 seconds once moving again I can tell by file size. This is the BEST it can do for Park Mode without Hard Wire kit. No short 1 minute files and no missing time. Works for me. I turn camera off manually when home. I start car it starts camera up again. When out and about I record in Low Bit when parked. So if I get hit it will record it. The quality of low bit mode is still quite good to say get a license plate. I now use a Pass through battery setup too. Works perfectly. I never draw power off car battery. Has worked great now for a while.
 
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