360 degree view

1. I'm not sure the video signal broadcast over WiFi is 1080p, it seems more like 720 on systems over tried, but I could be wrong.
2. I doubt the resolution / compression compromise of video over WiFi would record sufficient detail for evidence.

I'd rather have a microSD slot in the remote camera and record locally. Oh wait, I already have a Mobius that can do that. No need to connect it all to a single main unit.

The mobius though is still hardwired and requires a power cord. A pitfall for vehicles that don't have a fixed rear window. Trying to run a cord on a vehicle where the rear doors open does not permit a "clean install". You are left with cords that could get jammed in between the door when a door is opened and closed. You are also left with exposed wires that could be pulled on or caught on objects.

Per my above, even if 720p, you don't need Crisp detail. Enough to capture the event. Front and Rear Cameras with far better quality can discern the rest in better detail. As any person or vehicle causing side damage to car is likely to cross the proximity of other cameras.

FYI: Here's a picture of a Volvo Door: You can observe the dilemma in trying to run a cord to the small window without the need to drill through the door's firewall and run cords. Trying to run a cable from the b-pillar to the door externally would risk this cable dangling and getting slammed into the door when the door opens and shuts.

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1. Well, we'll beg to differ here as you are often argumentative and cannot be reasoned with....

2. Back to the original point. Running wires to a vehicle with an inaccessible place to mount side cameras necessitates a remote setup. You would still have to hardwire the "Main Unit" receiving and processing the feed to the remote cameras.

Wireless home security cameras utilize rechargeable cameras. Sure, batteries aren't the best option in a hot enclosed car. And lipo batteries degrade over time. However, it would still be an "option" to negate the need for running a wire on a remote dash cam setup. Where the cameras can detach from the mount for recharging as needed. Or utilize a watch battery or other option if recharging isn't the best resolution.

Remote viewing through wifi isn't horrible. The image you get from viewing a Viofo (129 / A139) and other cameras I've tested is "acceptable". Not crystal clear but good enough to capture an event.

A. Let's say a person RAMS their door into you car door. Ideally, the front and rear cameras would capture that vehicle in detail as it pulled out and drove away. Merely capturing the event is important, even if not in high resolution.

B. Someone keys your car. Again, capturing the event is crucial. Your front and rear cameras would then offer better resolution at catching the suspect.

Viofos and other cameras are generally able to send a 5g feed within the vehicle without issue. We're not talking long distances.

Nothing you suggest is in any way practical. It may be one thing to send a video signal to your cell phone to view a live feed but recording in real time is another matter altogether. I also disagree that poor quality video is adequate. You may be able to capture somebody keying your car but you also want to identify who it was. There have been some good examples of that over the years here on DCT. Of course, you'd want to capture plate numbers too and low res video wouldn't help with that either.

As for accusing me of being argumentative, you sound like the pot calling the kettle black. Sounds about right from you.
 
The mobius though is still hardwired and requires a power cord. A pitfall for vehicles that don't have a fixed rear window. Trying to run a cord on a vehicle where the rear doors open does not permit a "clean install". You are left with cords that could get jammed in between the door when a door is opened and closed. You are also left with exposed wires that could be pulled on or caught on objects.

Per my above, even if 720p, you don't need Crisp detail. Enough to capture the event. Front and Rear Cameras with far better quality can discern the rest in better detail. As any person or vehicle causing side damage to car is likely to cross the proximity of other cameras.

Still on the "wires get jammed in the doors" and "exposed wires" myth I see. Amusing how you ignore actual experience in favor of your own imagined reality. :rolleyes:
 
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@HonestReview If you don't have a fixed side window and you don't feel comfortable with the cabling ideas suggested by Dashmellow, as you have already demonstrated you get reasonable side coverage from your A139 interior camera, including IR video at night. Perhaps that's all you need.
 
Still on the "wires get jammed in the doors" and "exposed wires" myth I see. Amusing how you ignore actual experience in favor of your own imagined reality. :rolleyes:

Yep....You've shown nothing more than "Look I'm an Expert" so it has to be possible.....Ya, and I'm a billionaire who calls Bill Gates, Jeff Bezos, among my personal friends.... We can all pretend to be whatever we want on the internet.

I'm not digging up this debate again. You had 3 pages to justify Proof of Concept and instead did nothing but dance around without proving a thing.

Time to move along and on to the next subject.
 
@HonestReview If you don't have a fixed side window and you don't feel comfortable with the cabling ideas suggested by Dashmellow, as you have already demonstrated you get reasonable side coverage from your A139 interior camera, including IR video at night. Perhaps that's all you need.

Well @Dashmellow didn't suggest ANY CABLING ideas. Scroll up and read through 3 pages of him saying "It's Possible". Ok so HOW is it possible. "It's Possible".

Abbot and Costello who's on first with that guy. Never an answer always a rhetorical response.

Making a Loop of the cable at the Door Jamb isn't an option since you have a hanging wire through the B-Pillar that will inevitably get caught up in the door.

The A139 gives pretty good coverage. Not highly detailed but would capture a sideswipe event. But wouldn't capture faces or high detail of say someone whacking your door with theirs. You'd see it MAYBE from a top down view versus a looking out window view.

But I was curious if "better coverage" is possible. Where you could actually see out the windows vs a Fish Bowl View.
 
Yep....You've shown nothing more than "Look I'm an Expert" so it has to be possible.....Ya, and I'm a billionaire who calls Bill Gates, Jeff Bezos, among my personal friends.... We can all pretend to be whatever we want on the internet.

I'm not digging up this debate again. You had 3 pages to justify Proof of Concept and instead did nothing but dance around without proving a thing.

Time to move along and on to the next subject.

You DID dig up this debate again! Who are you kidding? It's remarkable how you deny things you say and do while in the very midst of saying and doing them.
HonestReview: Back to the original point. Running wires to a vehicle with an inaccessible place to mount side cameras necessitates a remote setup.

I've never said, "I'm an expert". I've simply said I've had experience installing side cameras with and have been running them for about eight years now with none of the imagined issues or problems you allege.
 
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Well @Dashmellow didn't suggest ANY CABLING ideas. Scroll up and read through 3 pages of him saying "It's Possible". Ok so HOW is it possible. "It's Possible".

Abbot and Costello who's on first with that guy. Never an answer always a rhetorical response.

Making a Loop of the cable at the Door Jamb isn't an option since you have a hanging wire through the B-Pillar that will inevitably get caught up in the door.

The A139 gives pretty good coverage. Not highly detailed but would capture a sideswipe event. But wouldn't capture faces or high detail of say someone whacking your door with theirs. You'd see it MAYBE from a top down view versus a looking out window view.

But I was curious if "better coverage" is possible. Where you could actually see out the windows vs a Fish Bowl View.

Enough with these false allegations and absurd insults!

I did give you examples of how to do the install. I also refused to accede to your demand that I provide a detailed tutorial for you as I'm not interested in the table pounding, entitled demands of a provocateur who behaves like an entitled spoiled child.

Stop making sh*t up and denying the facts. Five days ago I provided you with methodology for doing your install. But like I've also said several times now, I don't believe you even have a genuine interest in side cameras. This is all just a platform for indulging in acting out and provoking.

As I've also previously stated in this thread, you would run the cable up the door gasket. In many vehicles there is room to neatly tuck the cable under the door gasket. I don't know your Volvo door gaskets. If you can't tuck cable under the gasket you need to attach the cable to the door itself along the side of the gasket on one side and the door frame gasket on the other. Instead, if you wanted to, you could run the cable behind your door panel up to your fixed glass panel and this would not require drilling any holes or having any exposed cable except inside your door frame. That's all I can offer you.
 
I’m new to the game and barely installed my Viofo front and rear cameras less than a week ago(even though I’ve had them for 18 months.) I want to have cameras monitoring the sides as well.

Personally, I don’t like the idea of placing the cameras inside the car pointing outside. However, I must admit that’s a solution I probably wouldn’t have thought of, especially the wide-angled lense part.

Anyways, I was looking for cameras I could attach below my side mirrrors. This would allow me to record all the door dingers out there. Probably a futile effort, but at least I’ll have some video dootage of it and I’ll be able to call them inconsiderate idiots and maybe commiserate with fellow door singer victims online.

I came across a lot of back up cameras that looked like they had good potential, but I would have to find a compatible recording system. After some searching i came across JOINLGO. It seems they sell a 4CH MDVR. A lot of their kits have big bulky cameras, but just today I noticed they had smaller cameras.

The only drawback I could see is they use aviation connectors and I think the cameras only come with six inch cables. I’m not sure if that length of cable would even reach a suitable place to make a connection with an extender cable. I’m going to have to investigate my side mirror housing a little closer. The aviation connectors could make it a little harder to route the cables. I suppose if worse came to worse I could cut off the connectors and buy new ones to install.

I’m really tempted to buy the 4CH mdvr and a camera to see if it actually would work.
 
Anyways, I was looking for cameras I could attach below my side mirrrors
You could add a Viofo MT1 , that has two small waterproof cameras that could be mounted under the side mirrors. I have tried it and it worked, but the cameras are visible to vandals so I decided not to make it permanent. Also they could only see backwards from the mirrors and I prefer a more sideways view.
 
Even the factory mirror cameras under some car mirrors are visible, but i will say barely visible and probably not noticed by most people as all you really see is the domed lens of the 360 degree camera housed there.
 
I finally had the motivation to look at my side mirrors. Unfortunately, I broke a small piece off the cap/cover by the turn signal and two of the internal plastic locking mechanisms trying to take it apart to see if I could run a cable internal to it. Only after I broke it did I figure out how to remove the mirror assembly which would have allowed me to release the locking clips without breaking them. This particular model you push forward on the top of the mirror while pulling out from the bottom and sides. Fortunately, the cap/cover popped back on and seemed to be secure. Even the broken piece seemed to fit back in snugly.

Anyways, there's enough room in the side mirror housing to store the aviation connector, so the six inch cable from the JOINLGO system would work. However, I did notice there is going to be a slight issue routing the cable from the side mirror through the door. The existing connector for the mirror adjustment and turn signal takes up the entire existing hole. The only other holes are used for the interior trim and screws used to mount the side mirror. My only options would be to drill a new hole in the metal plate to which the side mirror attaches, sacrifice one of the holes for the trim locking mechanism, or use one of the screw holes and only have the side mirrors attached by two screws.

It seems like I'm going to have to cut off the connector on the camera cables in order to route the cable and then put new connectors on or just use a butt splice to reattach the ones I cut off. This will reduce the size of the holes I'll need to drill into the bottom of the side mirror, make it to where I can use an existing screw/trim hole, and make it easier to run through a rubber grommet that.

You could add a Viofo MT1 , that has two small waterproof cameras that could be mounted under the side mirrors.

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll probably end up going with this system. Did you find that the cables were long enough to route from the side mirrors to wherever you stored the main unit?

I have tried it and it worked, but the cameras are visible to vandals so I decided not to make it permanent. Also they could only see backwards from the mirrors and I prefer a more sideways view.

I'm not too concerned about vandals. My car is housed in a parking garage at night and like @kamkar said I don't think it's going to be visible to a lot of people.
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I'll probably end up going with this system. Did you find that the cables were long enough to route from the side mirrors to wherever you stored the main unit?
With the unit in the center of the car, yes the cables are long enough. Probably in other locations too, but with a wide car you may need central mounting.

I actually mounted mine next to the car battery, in the engine compartment. It is wifi controlled so that worked fine.
 
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