A129 3-wire kit

Does anyone know whether Power Magic Pro switch works as a method of hard-wiring?
My only concern is that Viofo might keep recording overnight when the car is parked in the garage
Not sure what behavior you'll see with using the Magic Pro. I solved the same concern by installing a manual rocker switch, see this thread: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a129-3-wire-kit.35898/page-9

This setup provides the same features as the Magic Pro, minus the auto timer...

You can also simply power off the camera when not needed (long press the menu button), it will power on automatically the next time you start the ignition.
 
Hi, just wondering why? I've setup mine through the floor since i dont want it to obstruct the curtain airbags on the roof

Where are the airbags on roof? Worried either way now that I'll interfere with them.

Hopefully going to have a look today to decide either to pull.it back from current route where I've got up to (maybe need extension) or go roof way.

Couple more questions please...
If roof way where do you keep excess cable? Push it into roof space?

Where should rear camera be mounted at top middle of rear window?

Thanks
 
Where are the airbags on roof? Worried either way now that I'll interfere with them.

Hopefully going to have a look today to decide either to pull.it back from current route where I've got up to (maybe need extension) or go roof way.

Couple more questions please...
If roof way where do you keep excess cable? Push it into roof space?

Where should rear camera be mounted at top middle of rear window?

Thanks
I doubt that there are airbags in the middle of the roof, normally they are only for side impact, although every generation of car seems to have even more of the dangerous explosive items!

Camera should be within the area covered by the wipers, and the area covered by the demister, otherwise top center, or a little to the driver's side is best. Also consider where the wiper parks.
 
Hi guys. I have a noob question.

I just got and installed my A129 Duo today and used the hardware kit.
I have it all connected and working, I think.

My question is, when it's all wired correctly and you have parking mode enabled for "auto detect", is it normal for my cam to stop recording, then immediately begin recording again, then after some time it will stop recording, but remain turned on with a red flashing LED on the bottom left?

Just want to be sure I have it correct.
I have set the hardware kit to the highest voltage as my car battery is a bit naff.
 
Where are the airbags on roof? Worried either way now that I'll interfere with them.

Hopefully going to have a look today to decide either to pull.it back from current route where I've got up to (maybe need extension) or go roof way.

Couple more questions please...
If roof way where do you keep excess cable? Push it into roof space?

Where should rear camera be mounted at top middle of rear window?

Thanks

I've got airbags just above the doors, hence routing it through the floor, still underneath the panels. Luckily this way the cable length is just perfect not to have any excess
 
Hi folks,
I'm trying to install 3 wire kit but little bit confused about fuses. I've 2 questions

1. I've ordered fusetap which came with something like fuse. But there is no value on it. So I think that it is not a fuse. It is just blade. Can I use it or should I plug a fuse to the top of fusetap? If yes, what should be the Amper value for that fuse?

2. I didnt understand what direction should I plug fusetap. I've watched several videos over youtube but couldn't get the point. Does anyone please explain it for me very basically?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi folks,
I'm trying to install 3 wire kit but little bit confused about fuses. I've 2 questions

1. I've ordered fusetap which came with something like fuse. But there is no value on it. So I think that it is not a fuse. It is just blade. Can I use it or should I plug a fuse to the top of fusetap? If yes, what should be the Amper value for that fuse?

2. I didnt understand what direction should I plug fusetap. I've watched several videos over youtube but couldn't get the point. Does anyone please explain it for me very basically?

Thanks in advance.

Generally the fuse taps have two slots, the one closest to the blades is for the original fuse, and the other, with the wire running out of the side of it, protects the secondary equipment, in this case the dashcam. (see picture)

In order to know which way round to insert the fusetap, you need to know which of the two fuseboard blade slots is live after you have identified a fuse and pulled it out.

Whichever is live should have the IN side of the fuse inserted, and the not live side should have the OUT side inserted. This is normally the side that has the wire coming out of it.

You can identify which side is live by using a multimeter on the empty slot - make sure ACC is on when you test the ACC slot or neither will be live.

Or you can take out the secondary fuse from the LIVE wire, push in the fusetap either way around, then connect the dashcam. If the dashcam powers up, it is working without a fuse and therefore is the wrong way around. I'm not suggesting this because your cam will be working without a fuse, but it is an option if you want the risk.

I'll detail what I did for my installation using the Viofo 3 wire parking kit, and you can decide if you want to repeat for yours.

1) Found that my Hazard Lights worked when the key was not in the ignition, then pulled fuses until the Hazard lights stopped working to know that I had found a fuse that always had power.
2) Connected the red parking kit (LIVE) wire to a fusetap, inserted a 2 amp fuse to protect the dashcam, inserted the original Hazard Light fuse, pushed the fusetap back in the fuse board in place of the original Hazard Light fuse.
3) Found that my Radio only worked when the ignition was at first position (ACC), then pulled fuses until the Radio stopped working to know that I had found a fuse that only had power on ACC.
4) Connected the yellow parking kit (ACC) wire to a fusetap, inserted a 2 amp fuse to protect the dashcam, inserted the original Radio fuse, pushed the fusetap back in the fuse board in place of the original Radio fuse.

I hope that helps.
 

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Generally the fuse taps have two slots, the one closest to the blades is for the original fuse, and the other, with the wire running out of the side of it, protects the secondary equipment, in this case the dashcam. (see picture)

In order to know which way round to insert the fusetap, you need to know which of the two fuseboard blade slots is live after you have identified a fuse and pulled it out.

Whichever is live should have the IN side of the fuse inserted, and the not live side should have the OUT side inserted. This is normally the side that has the wire coming out of it.

You can identify which side is live by using a multimeter on the empty slot - make sure ACC is on when you test the ACC slot or neither will be live.

Or you can take out the secondary fuse from the LIVE wire, push in the fusetap either way around, then connect the dashcam. If the dashcam powers up, it is working without a fuse and therefore is the wrong way around. I'm not suggesting this because your cam will be working without a fuse, but it is an option if you want the risk.

I'll detail what I did for my installation using the Viofo 3 wire parking kit, and you can decide if you want to repeat for yours.

1) Found that my Hazard Lights worked when the key was not in the ignition, then pulled fuses until the Hazard lights stopped working to know that I had found a fuse that always had power.
2) Connected the red parking kit (LIVE) wire to a fusetap, inserted a 2 amp fuse to protect the dashcam, inserted the original Hazard Light fuse, pushed the fusetap back in the fuse board in place of the original Hazard Light fuse.
3) Found that my Radio only worked when the ignition was at first position (ACC), then pulled fuses until the Radio stopped working to know that I had found a fuse that only had power on ACC.
4) Connected the yellow parking kit (ACC) wire to a fusetap, inserted a 2 amp fuse to protect the dashcam, inserted the original Radio fuse, pushed the fusetap back in the fuse board in place of the original Radio fuse.

I hope that helps.

Thank you very much for your prompt answer. I've made my Viof A129 working now. I've SEAT Leon MK3 2017. My fusetaps came with 10 Amp fuses on it. But as far as I understood, I need to change them something not more than 5 Amp. Am I right on that point? And Is this valid for both cables ACC and Battery.

Thanks.
 
Well 1/2 way there! Hardwired with official kit today. Still got the rear to fit...

I'm on official v1.5 FW so do I have all the functions or is there still some on beta FW only?

What's the best parking mode to use? I'd prefer constant re wording as this G-shock seems to record after the event.

The hardwire setting swutch, which should I set it to? How do you find out which it should be on for your car?

I presume to confirm all is working after my hardwire install is to check after leaving car a while and then also driving to check footage on camera and see I'm recording when driving and also when parked?

Thanks
 
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Well 1/2 way there! Hardwired with official kit today. Still got the rear to fit...

I'm on official v1.5 FW so do I have all the functions or is there still some on beta FW only?

What's the best parking mode to use? I'd prefer constant re wording as this G-shock seems to record after the event.

The hardwire setting swutch, which should I set it to? How do you find out which it should be on for your car?

I presume to confirm all is working after my hardwire install is to check after leaving car a while and then also driving to check footage on camera and see I'm recording when driving and also when parked?

Thanks
V1.5 FW is the latest with all functions at present.
If you prefer constant recording, you can choose low bitrate recording in PM.
For the hardwire voltage setting, it based on your own condition.
The lower the voltage setting, the shorter the car battery life, assuming that it regularly reaches the cut off limit, which depends on how much and how often you drive the car.
If you always leave the car unused for several days at a time then it might be wise to increase to 12.4V.
 
I’ve finally wired up my HWK3 to the side input on my A129, complete with switch located next to the drivers left knee. It all seems to be working as it should, when the switch is at position ‘1’ the camera works as intended. When driving it picks up the ACC feed and records as normal, when parked up it immediately switches to parking mode using the Bat+ feed. When the switch is at ‘0’ it only records when the engine is running. I’ve only just done it so I don’t know if it is going to exhibit any strange behaviour but at least it works as intended at the moment.

Thank you to the 2 chaps who took the time to help me get my head round it and checked my wiring diagrams. Much appreciated [emoji106]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
"With ACC detection feature, dash cam will switch to parking mode automatically if the vehicle engine off, and switch back to normal recording after vehicle engine on. Please be sure the cable is connected to the camera directly, not through the GPS mount "
why? so I need to switch the cable when am parking !!
 

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"With ACC detection feature, dash cam will switch to parking mode automatically if the vehicle engine off, and switch back to normal recording after vehicle engine on. Please be sure the cable is connected to the camera directly, not through the GPS mount "
why? so I need to switch the cable when am parking !!

the three wire parking cable only works when connected to the camera directly
 
I’ve finally wired up my HWK3 to the side input on my A129, complete with switch located next to the drivers left knee. It all seems to be working as it should, when the switch is at position ‘1’ the camera works as intended. When driving it picks up the ACC feed and records as normal, when parked up it immediately switches to parking mode using the Bat+ feed. When the switch is at ‘0’ it only records when the engine is running. I’ve only just done it so I don’t know if it is going to exhibit any strange behaviour but at least it works as intended at the moment.

Thank you to the 2 chaps who took the time to help me get my head round it and checked my wiring diagrams. Much appreciated [emoji106]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Glad to see you up and running, will be curious to see if you run across any 'behavior issues'...
 
Well....after wiring, just noticed that cam isn't on this morn (have screen off after 30s), didn't see red LEDs on.

Reading above says have to have hardwire plugged into camera not the GPS mount, I did have cigi lighter plugged into camera but decided hardwire would goto GPS. The original drawing from Viofo didn't now this though when I asked for help wiring.

I'll swap tonight as was about to jump into wiring and fuses etc.....
 
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Ok working again after plugging into camera and not GPS mount! Car still starting ok in this cold UK weather in morning as well with my current hardwire setting. Hopefully this W/end get the rear camera fitted as well. I currently have a 32Gb SD in, and now parking mode, time-lapse (which checked for first time on computer I'm very impressed with), isn't enough with rear and constant parking recording so any suggestions please? Just a Samsung Class 10 do? what size best?

thanks
 
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