A129 Parking mode stops working after ~2 hours

[smoshep]

Hey,

I've enabled everything for the camera to work on Parking mode, but after about 2 hours it stops working and the parking mode doesn't work.

Also the date and time definition on the camera keeps getting broken and changed.

Any Ideas on what the issue could be?

Thanks!

 

[dctkezz]

How is it powered? If hardwired maybe it's hitting the voltage cut-off point.

 

[HonestReview]

Hey,

I've enabled everything for the camera to work on Parking mode, but after about 2 hours it stops working and the parking mode doesn't work.

Also the date and time definition on the camera keeps getting broken and changed.

Any Ideas on what the issue could be?

Thanks!

I suggest setting the voltage cutoff to 12.2 on the hardwire kit (50%). Unless you have a newer battery, 12.4 (75%) will cause the camera to shut off more frequently. Especially true when the batter has age and the maximum voltage of the battery decreases over time.

 

[PasswordIsTaco123]

Im running into the same problem. tried hard reset, soft reset, mine stops doing recordings after 2 hours also. I also have an A129IR model and when testing with that, had no issues recording many clips all night of people going in and out of the neighborhood from where my car is parked. Currently working with viofo rep to see whats going on

 

[PasswordIsTaco123]

Any chance its because ive been switching the frequency from 50hz to 60hz? That wouldnt affect that would it?

 

[CaptureYourAction]

Any chance its because ive been switching the frequency from 50hz to 60hz? That wouldnt affect that would it?

It shouldn’t. As a test, it would be worthwhile to swap memory cards between the two cameras to see if the issue follows the card.
Also, maybe the hardwire kit is shutting down the camera due to the voltage cutoff? Have you tried a lower setting?

 

[PasswordIsTaco123]

It shouldn’t. As a test, it would be worthwhile to swap memory cards between the two cameras to see if the issue follows the card.
Also, maybe the hardwire kit is shutting down the camera due to the voltage cutoff? Have you tried a lower setting?

I was just testing out a mod version of the firmware and that didnt work at all. Parking mode only recorded 1 clip, then stopped recording altogether, and when i started the car up, it switches over to regular record mode, but doesnt actually record.
Reverting back to V1.9 right now. I just lowered my hardwire down to 12.0V to test with the regular 1.9 firmware right now and see if that fixes it. But i doubt it will. I also have an A129IR that ive been testing with and has no problems recording all night long at the 12.4v setting.

 

[CaptureYourAction]

I was just testing out a mod version of the firmware and that didnt work at all. Parking mode only recorded 1 clip, then stopped recording altogether, and when i started the car up, it switches over to regular record mode, but doesnt actually record.
Reverting back to V1.9 right now. I just lowered my hardwire down to 12.0V to test with the regular 1.9 firmware right now and see if that fixes it. But i doubt it will. I also have an A129IR that ive been testing with and has no problems recording all night long at the 12.4v setting.

Different cars can require different voltage settings based on the age of the battery and how often the car is driven. I would still try swapping the cards between the cameras to see if the issue follows the card. Worth trying.

 

[HonestReview]

What memory card you using? Not all are compatible and can cause camera to freeze and fail to record.

 

[taitube]

Haf the same issue after 2 hourse no recording.

 

[Airborne]

I hope this is not going to be a problem for 129 users

 

[Dashcamuser567]

My voltage cutoff is at 12.4v since in the winter 12.2 or below takes an extra second to start up so I wanted to be safe. Also, 12.4 is what the dashcamtalk recommends: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/#What_is_the_ideal_voltage_cut-off

 

[HonestReview]

Had the same issue after 2 hourse no recording.
Problem was the battery of my car getting low under 12,2V

Well that should have been a very clear problem to notice. If your Voltage Limit was 12.2 and the car dropped below 12.2, you should have come back to a car where the camera was shut off. Thus, all recordings after the camera shut off would have stopped.

 

[HonestReview]

My voltage cutoff is at 12.4v since in the winter 12.2 or below takes an extra second to start up so I wanted to be safe. Also, 12.4 is what the dashcamtalk recommends: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/#What_is_the_ideal_voltage_cut-off

Unless you have an ABSOLUTELY BRAND NEW battery, 12.2 is the recommended, and not 12.4

Voltage is as follows

12.6 = 100%
12.4 = 75%
12.2 = 50%
12.0 = 25%
11.8 = 0%

I had an issue with my camera shutting off very quickly at 12.4, because my battery wasn't new. When testing the battery, I found it was at around 12.43. Which meant within a short period, the voltage limit of 12.4 was reached, and my camera did as it was instructed. Turned off. 12.2 solved issue.

 

[Dashcamuser567]

Unless you have an ABSOLUTELY BRAND NEW battery, 12.2 is the recommended, and not 12.4

Voltage is as follows

12.6 = 100%
12.4 = 75%
12.2 = 50%
12.0 = 25%
11.8 = 0%

I had an issue with my camera shutting off very quickly at 12.4, because my battery wasn't new. When testing the battery, I found it was at around 12.43. Which meant within a short period, the voltage limit of 12.4 was reached, and my camera did as it was instructed. Turned off. 12.2 solved issue.

Someone should update that post then. I set mine to 12.4 based on that post. But since my car battery is new I guess it makes sense for me to keep it at 12.4. In the summer mine lasts a decent while, in the winter it turns off sooner. Maybe after a year or so when the battery wears more I can adjust it properly, but Im satisfied with my results

 

[PasswordIsTaco123]

my problem is I come back to the car, make sure to be in front where the cam would pick up the motion, get into the car and see the solid red recording light, wait for the recordign to stop and see it switch to standby (fast blinking) which it does, did this multiple times even just now, fire up the engine, wait for it to switch over to regular drive mode, then stop the recording, bring it inside, no events have recorded since I parked it, you can see me walking off, and thats the last thing it recorded before the engine started up and I took the card out.

Wouldnt the voltage cutoff make it not get any power and no lights or anything?

on the outside it looks to be working properly, but just not writing the events to the card. the lights indicating it should be writing is working just not actually writing to the card, so weird

 

[PasswordIsTaco123]

Also I just went outside and checked the battery, resting at 12.6v right now

 

[kamkar]

I tried to use 12.4V cut off on my little car battery in my 2012 car, that did not give me much parking time, so lowering to 12.2 V gave me a lot more.
But its still not like i get half a day of active parking guard on that little 47 AH battery with X / XX % wear due to its age.
When i get new cameras to test i have a sneaky feeling i will frantically start to look for a new & larger battery for my car, though its not like i will be using long period parking guard 1 hour should be fine for my needs.
BUT ! i sure would prefer to have the option to be able to do 12 hours with confidence.

 

[HonestReview]

my problem is I come back to the car, make sure to be in front where the cam would pick up the motion, get into the car and see the solid red recording light, wait for the recordign to stop and see it switch to standby (fast blinking) which it does, did this multiple times even just now, fire up the engine, wait for it to switch over to regular drive mode, then stop the recording, bring it inside, no events have recorded since I parked it, you can see me walking off, and thats the last thing it recorded before the engine started up and I took the card out.

Wouldnt the voltage cutoff make it not get any power and no lights or anything?

on the outside it looks to be working properly, but just not writing the events to the card. the lights indicating it should be writing is working just not actually writing to the card, so weird

So let me ask you this. Is the camera still turned on when exiting the car and then coming back to the car later on? The camera is never powered off?

A few reasons why the camera could be doing this:

1. What type of SD card are you using? Sandisk Ultra Plus and some other SD cards are incompatible with the camera. These cards will show the camera as active, but it either isn't recording or has frozen.

2. Have your car battery tested at autozone, advanced, etc. Lower Voltage cutoff to 12.2 as long as your battery is healthy and above 50%.

3. Are you sure the camera is hardwired properly to a fuse? One issue I discovered on my first attempt at installation is I picked a fuse (12V socket), but it was apparently tied into my car alarm + locking. So even if I shut off the car, if I locked doors, it'd turn camera back on...

Picking a fuse that's tied into other electrical systems can cause erratic behavior....

Heated seats, for instance is what I used for my ACC (Turns on with car)
Used Powered Seats for "Always On" power.

 

[jdct]

Someone should update that post then. I set mine to 12.4 based on that post. But since my car battery is new I guess it makes sense for me to keep it at 12.4. In the summer mine lasts a decent while, in the winter it turns off sooner. Maybe after a year or so when the battery wears more I can adjust it properly, but Im satisfied with my results

Anyone can post anything here -- whether fact or fantasy. And some people give better advice than others.
For instance, as you've already observed, voltage is affected by resistance, and resistance varies by temperature.
Also, the internal chemical reactions within a battery slow down at lower temperatures.
And there are many more factors in play...

So which of the four positions available on the HK3 voltage cutoff switch you choose may just as likely depend upon whether you carry a backup battery jump starter in your car during your testing period. Furthermore, there may be some question as to whether the labeled voltage thresholds accurately reflect the sensed voltages depending upon the tolerances built into the power supply circuit which was probably designed with inexpensive manufacturing costs in mind -- perhaps it's close, but not necessarily exact, sort of 'good enough'.

(I would rate my own advice at 5.5 on a scale of 1 to 10. I've seen better; I've seen worse.)