Hardwiring A119 for Always Hot/Constant Power Parking Mode

[xtremex626]

Hey guys, I have tried to do as much research as I could before starting another thread, but I simply can't find the answer to my question(s).

I have seen countless threads on people hardwiring the A119 to an accessory fuse that's only "hot" when the ignition is "on" but I have never encountered anybody on here that has their A119 hardwired for "always hot"/constant power for use of the parking mode feature.

Yes, I am totally aware that the parking mode feature on the A119 isn't really as great as other manufacturers out there such as BlackVue but why have that feature and not use it? I think it's just a total waste. So far this is the list of stuff I already gathered for my install (I haven't found the time to install anything yet simply because I am busy and want to make sure I get everything right before I attempt it). Here's the list of parts i gathered so far:

1) Dashcam Hardwire Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00MH4ZVHO
2) Add-a-circuit ATM mini low profile fuse holder (my fusebox uses this style): https://www.ebay.com/itm/131089523065
3) 2 AMP mini low profile fuses (used this instead of the supplied 5 AMP fuse from add-a-circuit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/151497156879
I understand that the dashcam hardwire kit (w/ 2 wires) I purchased can be used for either "always hot" or "hot" when ignition is on BUT for the parking mode feature to work correctly, do I specifically need a dashcam hardwire kit with 3 wires (red wire for always on/constant power, yellow wire for acc power when ignition is on, and black wire for ground)?

Here are some examples of the dashcam hardwire kits with 3 wires:

1) Motopark Multi Safer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00JFUU87G
2) Power Magic Pro: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B01B8HI4U6
3) Thinkware Hardwire Kit (looks exactly like the one I purchased except it has the 3rd wire and the plug is different (shouldn't be a problem as I can switch the plug to a mini-usb head): https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00NC062E8
Will the dashcam perform the same way without the third extra wire in the other dash cam hardwire kit I ordered? Is the hardwire kit with 3 wires really necessary for use of the parking mode feature? My goal is to have the dash cam wired on "always hot"/constant power so that parking mode feature will work as it's supposed to.

Thank you!

 

[abarth]

I've had my A119 hardwired to a multi-safer in motion detect mode for a while now. yes, you do need to have the multi-safer (or any BDP device) wired to ignition|battery|ground. it's the only way the device can monitor battery voltage for cutoff. also, if you are going to use a multi-safer, you do not need an additional hardwire kit as the multi-safer has an input for the 12v/lighter plug.

and some of my thoughts on using the A119 for 24/7 motion detect/parking mode:

in my experience, the A119 motion detect is quite good. I can be in traffic and have no gaps in recording at all. and this is while sitting in San Francisco traffic. probably because the "time-out" to stop recording is a minute or so. when I'm parked, it will usually capture a vehicle traveling at 15 MPH at about the first 1/4 of the frame. it's very acceptable for my uses.

 

[xtremex626]

I've had my A119 hardwired to a multi-safer in motion detect mode for a while now. yes, you do need to have the multi-safer (or any BDP device) wired to ignition|battery|ground. it's the only way the device can monitor battery voltage for cutoff. also, if you are going to use a multi-safer, you do not need an additional hardwire kit as the multi-safer has an input for the 12v/lighter plug.

and some of my thoughts on using the A119 for 24/7 motion detect/parking mode:

Hm.. but doesn't the hardwire kit I ordered already have an in-line converter to allow the dash cam to shut off before killing the battery? I know the Multi Safer and Power Magic Pro have extra features such as custom cut-off voltages. Technically, I can just use the Thinkware hardware kit since it has 3 wires and an in-line converter but doesn't have the fancy option to toggle between "always hot"/constant and "hot" when ignition on.

 

[abarth]

Hm.. but doesn't the hardwire kit I ordered already have an in-line converter to allow the dash cam to shut off before killing the battery? I know the Multi Safer and Power Magic Pro have extra features such as custom cut-off voltages. Technically, I can just use the Thinkware hardware kit since it has 3 wires and an in-line converter but doesn't have the fancy option to toggle between "always hot"/constant and "hot" when ignition on.

I'm not really familiar with the thinkware hardwire kit you linked. maybe I'm not looking in the right places but I don't see where it says it has built-in discharge prevention. I'm thinking that the thinkware cameras have built-in discharge prevention and that cable is just a way for the camera to hook up to both ignition/battery much like my previous lukas camera. anyone who's familiar with them can chime in.

edit: I'm now looking at the device you purchased. I think I've seen that and other folks on here have purchased it. I don't know much about it but it looks like if you hook it up to the battery circuit, it will perform the way you want it to. I still don't see what the parameters are for when it actually cuts power. depending on where you live and if seasons bring a large temperature fluctuation, an adjustable voltage cutoff may be a big advantage to you.

 

[WA3PNT]

I use the Vico Power-Plus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00ZPLSITE
Cut the cigar lighter socket off the output lead and connected this 12V to 5V wiring harness

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00MH4ZVHO
I use the Power-Plus to prevent battery drain below 12.2V, and also have the time set to 6 hours.

I set the A119 for Motion Detection ON, and when not driving the A119 provides video for motion and impact

The disadvantage of using the A119 is that it BEGINS recording when motion or an event is detected, which may be too late to capture the lead in to the event.

On my other two vehicles I have moved to the Thinkware F50, which can be wired with their harness to switch to Parking Mode, and saves video for the 10 seconds leading up to an event (motion or G-Sensor). The battery discharge protection (both voltage and time) are built in to the F50, so there is no need for the Vico Power-Plus.

I sacrifice the 1440 video quality (F50 is HD), but the best quality in the world would be useless if I didn't have the video leading up to the event.

RodeoGeorge

 

[xtremex626]

I guess some of you might be misunderstanding my question(s). I understand that in order to use parking mode feature, you have to have it hardwired to constant power in the fusebox or battery (I chose fusebox). On the A119, you have to enable/disable parking mode manually.

Let's say I go ahead and install the hardwire kit I went with and wired it for constant on. With parking mode and g-sensor also enabled, wouldn't my device still be on 24/7 until my battery is about to die regardless since it's wired to constant on?

Right now, I'm using my standard 12V cigarette lighter to power the dash cam. I also have parking mode and g-sensor enabled knowing that these features won't work properly until properly hardwired. Even then, parking mode and g-sensor doesn't work while the dashcam is left on.. It just keeps recording until I shut my car off. I feel like the hardwire kit I purchased would be the same exact thing as using my 12V cigarette lighter except that power is being stepped down to 5V and it has an automatic shut off to prevent the battery from dying.

I think that's why I do need a 3rd wire in order to let the dash cam know that the ignition is off to let the dash cam go into stand by (parking mode). So in the case of an event of motion detection or vibration, the dash cam can then automatically turn on from stand by and start recording.

Sorry, not too sure if my logic is understandable. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[abarth]

I guess you might be misunderstanding my question. I understand that in order to use parking mode feature, you have to have it hardwired to constant power in the fusebox or battery (I chose fusebox). On the A119, you have to enable/disable parking mode manually.

I think we're just getting our terms a bit mixed up which is understandable whenever it's a technical discussion. when I say BATTERY, i use that interchangeably with CONSTANT power. and yes, I've tapped both CONSTANT and IGNITION power from my fusebox. and i know we're using the term PARKING MODE but really it's MOTION DETECT which is one way to enable PARKING MODE.

Let's say I go ahead and install the hardwire kit I went with and wired it for constant on. With parking mode and g-sensor also enabled, wouldn't my device still be on 24/7 until my battery is about to die regardless since it's wired to constant on?

yes. the camera will always be on until it hits low voltage cutoff. this is the way we want it. if you want the camera to wake up from a powered off state to full recording, that will take much to long and if a car hits yours, that driver will be gone before the camera has time to boot and start recording.

Right now, I'm using my standard 12V cigarette lighter to power the dash cam. I also have parking mode and g-sensor enabled knowing that these features won't work properly until properly hardwired. Even then, parking mode and g-sensor doesn't work while the dashcam is left on.. I feel like the hardwire kit I purchased would be the same exact thing as using my 12V cigarette lighter except that power is being stepped down to 5V and it has an automatic shut off to prevent the battery from dying.

I think that's why I do need 3rd wire in order to let the dash cam know that the ignition is off to let the dash cam go into stand by (parking mode). So in the case of an event of motion detection or vibration, the dash cam can then automatically turn on and start recording.

the A119 does not have "true" parking mode, just a motion detect mode so it's circuitry does not know when your vehicle is on or off. it just knows when there is power being fed to it. it does not matter to it whether or not it is coming from ignition or constant battery power. that's where a smarter battery discharge prevention device is handy. and since this is the way the A119 functions, i just leave it on motion detection 24/7. it will record all of my drives with no gaps since it has a "time-out" of about 1-minute when it stops recording. and when I'm parked, i have found motion detect to be sensitive enough to capture cars within the first third of the frame which is good enough for me. I'd certainly like if it was pre-buffered to record before and after a motion trigger but i can't ask that much at this price-point.

Sorry, not too sure if my logic is understandable. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[WA3PNT]

With parking mode and g-sensor also enabled, wouldn't my device still be on 24/7 until my battery is about to die regardless since it's wired to constant on?

I think that the major error in your logic is that the A119 does not have a Parking Mode.

It has a Motion and G-Sensor setting that can be used to create video only when there is an event.

This is really a sudo-Parking Mode.

RodeoGeorge

 

[E-man]

I use the Vico Power-Plus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00ZPLSITE
Cut the cigar lighter socket off the output lead and connected this 12V to 5V wiring harness

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00MH4ZVHO
I use the Power-Plus to prevent battery drain below 12.2V, and also have the time set to 6 hours.

I set the A119 for Motion Detection ON, and when not driving the A119 provides video for motion and impact

The disadvantage of using the A119 is that it BEGINS recording when motion or an event is detected, which may be too late to capture the lead in to the event.

On my other two vehicles I have moved to the Thinkware F50, which can be wired with their harness to switch to Parking Mode, and saves video for the 10 seconds leading up to an event (motion or G-Sensor). The battery discharge protection (both voltage and time) are built in to the F50, so there is no need for the Vico Power-Plus.

I sacrifice the 1440 video quality (F50 is HD), but the best quality in the world would be useless if I didn't have the video leading up to the event.

RodeoGeorge

Hi RodeoGeorge,
I just ordered the Vico Power Plus and I was wondering why you cut the cigar socket off and attached the 12v to 5v wire harness? Can you not just plug in the car charger from the A119 straight into the Vico's socket? Or am I misunderstanding something here?

 

[WA3PNT]

Hi RodeoGeorge,
I just ordered the Vico Power Plus and I was wondering why you cut the cigar socket off and attached the 12v to 5v wire harness? Can you not just plug in the car charger from the A119 straight into the Vico's socket? Or am I misunderstanding something here?

I addressed the issue of the A119 adapter not fitting in the Vico Power-Plus here.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...ests-and-bug-reports.20403/page-6#post-272891

RodeoGeorge

 

[E-man]

I addressed the issue of the A119 adapter not fitting in the Vico Power-Plus here.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...ests-and-bug-reports.20403/page-6#post-272891

RodeoGeorge

Oh ok, thanks for letting me know as I was planning to buy the A119.

 

[Gibson99]

Hi RodeoGeorge,
I just ordered the Vico Power Plus and I was wondering why you cut the cigar socket off and attached the 12v to 5v wire harness? Can you not just plug in the car charger from the A119 straight into the Vico's socket? Or am I misunderstanding something here?

I might do that just to save bulk and space behind the panels in my vehicle. Plus, the lighter adapter could potentially work its way loose from the socket over time, and if it's behind a panel, it won't be easy to fix if I'm away from home.

 

[xtremex626]

hey guys, just a friendly update:

yes you guys are right, the A119 indeed does not have a parking mode; only g-sensor and motion detection. i had it all mixed up but thanks for straightening things out guys!

so i went forward with my original plans and everything worked out the way i intended it to. i hardwired the dash cam with my smart key fuse (i have an '07 lexus gs350 & this had to be constant on since you need power to lock/unlock the car). i currently have the g-motion sensitivity to high and motion detection on. i've gone back to view the videos and i can see that right when a car passes halfway through the lens, the camera automatically comes on from standby and records the activity. same goes for when people walk in front of the dash cam. so far, i have not experienced any battery problems with the hardwire kit I used (have had it on for 3 days in a row now & don't think i will because the kit will shut off power to the dash whenever it reaches a certain level). overall, i am happy with my purchase!

 

[abarth]

sounds good! has the hardwiring kit you've purchased hit the low voltage cutoff, yet? is there documentation stating what the voltage cutoff is?

 

[xtremex626]

sounds good! has the hardwiring kit you've purchased hit the low voltage cutoff, yet? is there documentation stating what the voltage cutoff is?

according to SpyTec's website, the kit will automatically shut off power when the battery drops to 11.6 volts

 

[Gibson99]

according to SpyTec's website, the kit will automatically shut off power when the battery drops to 11.6 volts

11.6 is really low. many cars won't start if it's under 12.0v. if you can, raise it up to 12.2 or so. car batteries don't last long when they're continually run down below 12v. sure, it still has voltage in it, but a car battery measuring 11.0v is considered completely dead and you'd be lucky if it even turned on your radio, much less actually started the car. below 11v, even a jump start won't help in most cases - a jump start still needs to have SOME juice in the car's own battery, otherwise you'll have to sit there for a while as the helper car's engine/alternator charges up your car's battery enough to actually start it.

those numbers are assuming summertime/warm temps. once it gets closer to freezing, many cars have a hard time starting at even 12.2v.

 

[abarth]

11.6 is really low. many cars won't start if it's under 12.0v. if you can, raise it up to 12.2 or so. car batteries don't last long when they're continually run down below 12v. sure, it still has voltage in it, but a car battery measuring 11.0v is considered completely dead and you'd be lucky if it even turned on your radio, much less actually started the car. below 11v, even a jump start won't help in most cases - a jump start still needs to have SOME juice in the car's own battery, otherwise you'll have to sit there for a while as the helper car's engine/alternator charges up your car's battery enough to actually start it.

those numbers are assuming summertime/warm temps. once it gets closer to freezing, many cars have a hard time starting at even 12.2v.

agreed. right now, I'm pushing it at 11.9v but I also have a charged-up backup battery starter in my hatch at all times (I've never had to use it). the temperature does not fluctuate too much with the seasons in the part of northern California where I live but i'll still be adjusting my cutoff to 12.1v in a few weeks.

 

[xtremex626]

11.6 is really low. many cars won't start if it's under 12.0v. if you can, raise it up to 12.2 or so. car batteries don't last long when they're continually run down below 12v. sure, it still has voltage in it, but a car battery measuring 11.0v is considered completely dead and you'd be lucky if it even turned on your radio, much less actually started the car. below 11v, even a jump start won't help in most cases - a jump start still needs to have SOME juice in the car's own battery, otherwise you'll have to sit there for a while as the helper car's engine/alternator charges up your car's battery enough to actually start it.

those numbers are assuming summertime/warm temps. once it gets closer to freezing, many cars have a hard time starting at even 12.2v.

yeah i figured 11.6 was pretty low too. i guess i guess i'll start disconnecting the power plug whenever the car is sitting in the driveway (no point having it on anyways). eventually, i'll invest in a celllink B or something of that nature.

 

[jdonalds]

I addressed the issue of the A119 adapter not fitting in the Vico Power-Plus here.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...ests-and-bug-reports.20403/page-6#post-272891

RodeoGeorge

Just to be clear for people thinking of buying an a119 and Vivo the fix is simple. Just use a different 12v to USB adapter. I must have 10 of them around the house.

 

[QHawk]

Just use a different 12v to USB adapter.

Yes. I dug through my big box of USB leftovers and found a Belkin that fits and works just fine. Turning this minor issue into a problem, let alone a problem for Viofo to solve, seems unreasonable.