Hardwiring iRoad PowerPack 12

PykeOPATHIC

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Hi,

I'm not new to hardwiring dash cams but it will be my first time to hardwire a battery pack. From what I know and the videos I watched, a battery pack requires only two cables, the ACC and GND cable. But I'm quite confused with the hardwire kit of the iRoad Battery Pack because it has GND(Black), VCC(Red) and IN ACC (Red but thinner) cables. The GND and IN ACC would probably be an obvious because the GND will connect to the car's chassis and the IN ACC will be probably be tapped to the cigarette lighter socket's fuse. I'm confused why it has a VCC cable because the car is not supposed to supply power to the battery when the engine is turned off, otherwise it will drain the battery.

Another strange thing is the IN ACC cable is thinner and it doesn't have a metal at the end that will connect to the fuse tap.1707408762181.png

Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Paging Dr. Ben.
Please pick up the white courtesy telephone @safedrivesolutions
Ben is now selling / installing the 156Wh IROAD battery packs to his customers.
He has a video about it coming out Saturday, you may want to consider subscribing to his channel;
While we're waiting for Ben to respond what does the included "Quick Guide" say about this?
Can you post photos of the Quick Guide?
-Chuck

User Guide .png
 
Paging Dr. Ben.
Please pick up the white courtesy telephone @safedrivesolutions
Ben is now selling / installing the 156Wh IROAD battery packs to his customers.
He has a video about it coming out Saturday, you may want to consider subscribing to his channel;
While we're waiting for Ben to respond what does the included "Quick Guide" say about this?
Can you post photos of the Quick Guide?
-Chuck

View attachment 70755
Paging Dr. Ben.
Please pick up the white courtesy telephone @safedrivesolutions
Ben is now selling / installing the 156Wh IROAD battery packs to his customers.
He has a video about it coming out Saturday, you may want to consider subscribing to his channel;
While we're waiting for Ben to respond what does the included "Quick Guide" say about this?
Can you post photos of the Quick Guide?
-Chuck

View attachment 70755
Hi!

I'm subscribed to him and he's been nothing but helpful. I'm still waiting for him to upload his video about this battery pack. The quick guide is utterly useless because it doesn't really say anything. I'm inclined to just connect the GND and the VCC cable to the accessory slot of the fuse box but I think this battery is meant to monitor ACC1 and VIN1 so I guess both red cables have to be connect. Here are photos of the user guide.

1707413292852.png

1707413322427.png
1707413422196.png
 
@Panzer Platform,

I'm suspecting that this battery is capable of dual charging but I'm quite concerned because it doesn't say anything that it's capable of such.
 
From what I know and the videos I watched, a battery pack requires only two cables
It appears the IROAD pack operates similar to the Thinkware BAB-95, (3-wire configuration).
Black = Ground
VCC = Constant B+ Power (always on)
IN-ACC = Switched Ignition Trigger
Any minute Ben should be along to confirm & verify.
-Chuck

IROAD .png
Thinkware .png
 
It appears the IROAD pack operates similar to the Thinkware BAB-95, (3-wire configuration).
Black = Ground
VCC = Constant B+ Power (always on)
IN-ACC = Switched Ignition Trigger
Any minute Ben should be along to confirm & verify.
-Chuck

View attachment 70764
View attachment 70765
Hi,

Ben already responded to me through one of his videos in Youtube. You're right about your speculation. I was just a bit anxious that such configuration would drain the car battery because the car battery might just end up charging the battery pack when the engine is off leaving me with a dead car battery. But he confirmed that it's how this PowerPack is meant to be connected. In other words, the IN-ACC cable acts like a switch that tells the battery to start charging once it detects power from the ignition.

iRoad just weirded me out because of a few things:
1. They didn't say anywhere that this is how it should be connected.
2. If these two red wires are meant to be connected to the fuse box, they should've provided two fuse taps of the same type. They just provided one for each type.
 
I was just a bit anxious that such configuration would drain the car battery because the car battery might just end up charging the battery pack when the engine is off leaving me with a dead car battery. But he confirmed that it's how this PowerPack is meant to be connected. In other words, the IN-ACC cable acts like a switch that tells the battery to start charging once it detects power from the ignition.
So he already gave you the correct answer, and you came to DCT to confirm & verify his statements?
Bravo!
Take a look at my Signature / Motto. lol
Motto .png
1. They didn't say anywhere that this is how it should be connected.
The two red wires are different size gauge (thickness) that is a first clue, (but an average consumer would not know this).
Thick wire = High Power
Thin wire = Low Power
If these two red wires are meant to be connected to the fuse box, they should've provided two fuse taps of the same type
"Never" rely on included wiring & connections.
"Always" use the thickest wire possible for high power demands, and the "best" connectors for your specific vehicle application.
"All" included wiring & connections with "all" battery packs are a cost saving measure after they've spent their budget making the actual device.
That's why the power wire is so thin, and made from Tinned Copper, or CCA (copper clad aluminum) not 100% OFC (pure copper).
If you want the "best" & safest installation you will make your own power charge cable from 100% OFC in 12AWG size.
Now go confirm & verify my crazy rant. lol
 
So he already gave you the correct answer, and you came to DCT to confirm & verify his statements?
Bravo!
Take a look at my Signature / Motto. lol
View attachment 70766

The two red wires are different size gauge (thickness) that is a first clue, (but an average consumer would not know this).
Thick wire = High Power
Thin wire = Low Power

"Never" rely on included wiring & connections.
"Always" use the thickest wire possible for high power demands, and the "best" connectors for your specific vehicle application.
"All" included wiring & connections with "all" battery packs are a cost saving measure after they've spent their budget making the actual device.
That's why the power wire is so thin, and made from Tinned Copper, or CCA (copper clad aluminum) not 100% OFC (pure copper).
If you want the "best" & safest installation you will make your own power charge cable from 100% OFC in 12AWG size.
Now go confirm & verify my crazy rant. lol
Click to expand...
I asked him and DCT at the same time. Then see who I get an answer from first. Your first reply above was 15 minutes ahead of his. I'm in quite a rush to get an answer because I'm scheduled to install this battery in my car today. It's the only time I have to do it. So I wasn't really forum shopping if that's what you're thinking. I believe what he said.
 
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