Hot camera

[adisan]

To power up my A119, I permanently use a Mio Smart Box, camera operates in "parking mode" mode.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B011Y9WGK2The problem is that the camera gets very hot, sometimes I can barely hold on to it.
I returned it to service, in warranty, they replaced the GPS unit and the condenser, telling me that it was subjected to extreme temperatures due to power kit.
I don't know what is the technical value of the optimum power supply to the camera to check if it is powered normally by the Mio kit.
Does the current 5V-2A Mio power supply hurt the camera? I measured the values. 5.14V and 2.41A. The amperage must not affect, the camera takes it as it should. Is the voltage too high?
I can not explain the phenomenon and I do not know what to do.
Thanks for any advice.

 

[Tuesfutu]

Does the same problem persist when you have it connected to a typical 12V accessory plug?

 

[adisan]

Before using Mio Smart box, used only the original cigarette car charger and a smartphone power bank. No other hardwire kit.
The specifications for Mio are: rated input voltage: DC 12 V, output current: 2A maximum.

 

[Leopold]

Something is very strange with the camera if it really has a power draw of 2.41A from the 5V source. How did you measure this?

From my own measurements, the A119 has a mean power draw of approx 0.5A without the GPS unit (which would add very little). It constantly fluctuates between say 0.25A - 0.75A.

The rating of max current on your power adapter has nothing to do with it other than giving a limit for how much current your device can draw at the rated voltage. In my example above the power bank has two USB outlets, one is rated for max 1.0A and the other 2.0A. The A119 works fine in both outlets and the unit displays the same current figures.

 

[adisan]

The values mentioned (5.14V and 2.41A) are measured at the exit of the Mio power kit, respectively at the entrance to the dash camera. I measured them with a multimeter at the GPS module terminals (on camera contact feet). As far as I know, the original power supplied by the manufacturer offers 5V and 1.5A. Is that so big difference?

 

[Tuesfutu]

I would suggest running if off the original hardware for a day to see if your camera still heats up. If it doesn't, then you know the problem is with the Mio. There is a difference between 2.4A and 1.5A. The higher the amperage, the hotter a device will run.

 

[Leopold]

No you misunderstand. In my example above, the A119 draws the same current (approx 0.25 - 0.75A, mean 0.5A) regardless if I power it by a 1 A USB outlet or a 2 A outlet. I could power it by a device that allows max 200A at 5V, it will still only draw 0.5A. It would be a very bad idea to use a USB outlet that is rated less than 0.75A in this case but this is clearly stated in the product specifications. That's why the original power adapter is specified with quite a big margin, say 1.5A.

So if you have measured 2.4A current draw from your A119 something is very wrong. But I agree with the suggestion to use the original USB power adapter to rule out that component. Some poorly designed power units may have very unstable filtering, not providing an even and clean DC voltage but rather a pulsed current which will upset sensitive electronics like a dash cam with unpredictable results.

 

[BCHobbyist]

I would suggest running if off the original hardware for a day to see if your camera still heats up. If it doesn't, then you know the problem is with the Mio. There is a difference between 2.4A and 1.5A. The higher the amperage, the hotter a device will run.

any device connected to a power source with matching voltage can use higher amperage but never lower, if you go lower the power source and device will both over heat, using higher AMPs doesn't increase heat since the device will only draw what it requires from source.

never power Dashcam from low quality power adapters (cig-liter / hardwire kits / power banks) the voltage/amp filtering may peak/drop above spec. I suspect using an unfiltered 5volt power bank will cause the cable and dashcam to overheat. Always compare with original equipment as mentioned above, and never on a hot day.

Example: charge your smartphone with original 5v 1Amp adapter, now switch before fully charged to lower 5v 500mAmp USB adapter, touch each adapter, cable & device during 10 mins charge, your hand will confirm which gets hotter.

Example: connect original laptop power adapter 19volts 4.6amps, now switch to smaller travel adapter 19volts 2.5 -3.5amps, now remove battery then view a long video - touch each adapter, cable & device during 10 mins, you'll confirm the result.

 

[adisan]

Thanks to everyone for the kindness of answering me, if I could draw a conclusion, it would be the fact that the hardwire kit used, Mio Smartbox, has an unstable filtering, although the A119 draws the necessary current, it has fluctuations from the source. The only reason I purchased and mounted my Mio (which costs about $ 30) was to limit the battery's exhaustion when using the camera in "parking mode" (cutting off at 12.4V). The variants that I would currently have are to look for another hardwire kit to provide better filtering or to stop using "parking mode".
Though I do not know what other hardwire kit would be trustworthy.

 

[Leopold]

The values mentioned (5.14V and 2.41A) are measured at the exit of the Mio power kit, respectively at the entrance to the dash camera. I measured them with a multimeter at the GPS module terminals (on camera contact feet). As far as I know, the original power supplied by the manufacturer offers 5V and 1.5A. Is that so big difference?

I've been thinking some more now. The way you describe your measurement procedure it appears to me that you have used the multimeter incorrectly. In the current measurement mode ("Amp mode") it basically has no resistance at all over the probes which means essentially the same as producing a short circuit. What you appear to have been testing is the power source's capacity for delivering current and in your case your 2A - rated Mio unit maxes out at 2.41 A. Presumably there is a protection circuit that kicks in and limit further current draw and prevent damage to the Mio unit.

If you tried to measure the current from an unprotected 18650 Li-Ion cell for instance, you would immediately blow the fuse in the amp meter - those cells are capable of delivering 15 - 20 A at 3.7V, not to mention a typical car battery which can deliver at least 700 A at 12V to the starter.

The correct way of using the amp-meter to measure current draw from the dashcam-GPS assembly would be to connect it in series with the connected dashcam, not very easy to do without cutting cables and splicing.

The way I measured current draw from my A119 dashcam was to use a power bank with a display showing Amps (uses four 18650 cells btw):


___
However! Regardless of actual power draw from your cam, the advice given above from me and others still holds. Try your cam with the original power adapter and see if temps are better. It is not unlikely that your Mio unit is damaged after all, leading to unstable power etc as described. There is also a possibility that the cam overheats in parking mode due to very hot environmental temp when the car is parked in the sun for instance.

 

[Hombré]

As the Joker has said on many occasions .............. Don't get too hung up on the numbers

 

[adisan]

Thanks a lot, Leopold, for advice. The possibility that A119 overheats in parking mode due to the high temperatures of environment is now ruled out, when temperatures have fallen, but I am aware that they can contribute when the car is parked in the sun.
I'm going to test the original power supply through the cigarette lighter that was provided with the camera. Surely it will not warm up. I still suspect the Mio hardwire kit.
As for the measurements I made, I was lucky that nothing exploded and I did not burn anything. I've tried an amateur measurement, I admit. But I do not know much and I tried to find out a reason for my problem.
I've used the multimeter in "unfused" mode for a current greater than 200 mAh. However, the results are probably not relevant.
I wanted to see if the input dash values are close to the recommended ones. Now I'm thinking of giving up the permanent power supply because I do not know what hardwire kit will give me the necessary values (constant voltage and intensity, power cut off at a battery value of less than 12.4 V).
Thanks a lot for counseling.

 

[BCHobbyist]

to further troubleshoot extreme heat issues using existing cabling setup, change the following : resolution 1080p at 30FPS / don't use 128gb microSd card swap to 32gb or lower for testing / if extreme heating continues remove from GPS module and temporarily rest on dashboard during test period. Always begin testing with complete Firmware update and reset Defaults once updated, consider downgrading firmware to elimiate. This may indicate cause of over heating issue.

 

[adisan]

Thanks for advises. Installed latest 3.3 firmware, factory reset, 1080/30 fps, 64gb card. I will see if it's better.

 

[adisan]

It seems to be better. Not hot, but warm. Anyway, better.