Mobius Telephoto Dashcam

Yes, I mean to use the thread locker to lock the lens for the case where you have no set screw. I though it more as for a semi-permanent installation as I would use it myself for, you know, set and forget dashcam application. The red Vibra-tite actually stays relatively soft and does not appear to flake off like the normal stuff that jackalopephoto mentioned.

Obviously, if you intent on swapping out the lens frequently, then it's not a good solution. Personally, I find that swapping lens to be a PITA, these small threads seem to be very delicate, I've already damaged one mount. I'd rather swap the sensor board instead of the lens when I want to experiment.

I have not yet found a source for just the mount used by Mobius. Most of the ones I see are 20 mm hole spacing instead of 18 mm. I should contact buymobius.com to see if they would sell me just the mount and not the entire lens+mount+sensor assembly.
 
Pasted another layer of EVA foam to the mounting plate, vibration fixed. The way the mount slid in or rather had to be forced in (gently), knew it did the trick. :)



Other than taxi (yellow plates), most types of license plates used in India get blown out when directly in front of bright headlights. More so a problem here as majority of drivers have their high-beam turned on all the time. The 12mm's additional reach helps under such conditions.

Fom a 'nice to look at' perspective, obviously the 8mm looks better. For my intended application though, the 12mm works slightly better.

Leaving this set up as it is till the capacitor F1 replaces one Mobius.

One wide-angle, one telephoto and one 90'ish degree 4K. If not a number plate all the time, at least you get a lot more detail. ;)
 
Leaving this set up as it is till the capacitor F1 replaces one Mobius.

One wide-angle, one telephoto and one 90'ish degree 4K. If not a number plate all the time, at least you get a lot more detail. ;)
Do you have much spare room on that mounting plate? Remember that the F1 is wider than a Mobius.

I haven't settled on a favorite setup yet. In principle I want a telephoto and a wide angle lens in both front and rear screens. I'm going to try a telephoto in a Mobius 2 to see how it goes.
 
Do you have much spare room on that mounting plate? Remember that the F1 is wider than a Mobius.

I notice @Harsh is using the cheese plate with the curved ends front to back. It looks as if the curved ends were on either side with the flat sides front to back there might be more real estate for side to side camera mounting.
 
Do you have much spare room on that mounting plate? Remember that the F1 is wider than a Mobius.

There's about an inch of space between the 8 and 12mm, it'll fit.
 
I notice @Harsh is using the cheese plate with the curved ends front to back. It looks as if the curved ends were on either side with the flat sides front to back there might be more real estate for side to side camera mounting.

Actually not, the outermost 1/4" threads on the curved sides are closer to the centre.
 
Yes, I mean to use the thread locker to lock the lens for the case where you have no set screw. I though it more as for a semi-permanent installation as I would use it myself for, you know, set and forget dashcam application. The red Vibra-tite actually stays relatively soft and does not appear to flake off like the normal stuff that jackalopephoto mentioned.

Obviously, if you intent on swapping out the lens frequently, then it's not a good solution. Personally, I find that swapping lens to be a PITA, these small threads seem to be very delicate, I've already damaged one mount. I'd rather swap the sensor board instead of the lens when I want to experiment.

I have not yet found a source for just the mount used by Mobius. Most of the ones I see are 20 mm hole spacing instead of 18 mm. I should contact buymobius.com to see if they would sell me just the mount and not the entire lens+mount+sensor assembly.

It's true that barrel and lens threads on some M12 lenses can be delicate but if one takes proper care, as they should with such things, you won't damage them. I've managed to removed and replace M12 lenses on cameras dozens of times with only a single mishap. With the Mobius, the primary concern is to be careful about over-tightening the grub screw to the point of deforming the threads on the lens which happened to me one time. Even then, unless you've really overdone things, you should be OK with a little repair work to remove the stripped threads with a precision file. Then again, some people just shouldn't ever mess around with any kind of object that has threads, like the scruffy mechanic who used to work on my car years ago who could strip the threads on a Jack Daniels bottle. :smuggrin:

If you feel it is a PITA to swap different lenses then obviously you just shouldn't do so. On the other hand, the entire point of this thread and the other similar threads like it regarding alternative lens options for the Mobius is that many of us enjoy exploring the possibilities offered by comparing the results and performance of different types of lenses and find it quite worthwhile. For some of us, swapping different lenses onto a Mobius, (which is essentially the ONLY camera on the market specifically designed to do this) is not only NOT a PITA but rather a big part of the hobby and the whole point of the endeavor. As for the notion of swapping the sensor instead of the lens barrel, this strikes me as impractical since one probably couldn't source them individually and even if you could buy them it could get expensive. I think most of us just prefer to basically screw in a new lens which seems to me as being far less of a PITA than swapping the sensor board in a module.

For me, going back six months now to last August I've swapped four different lenses into a single Mobius camera to include two different 6mm ƒ/1.2 lenses, the 4mm ƒ/1.2 and the Varifocal IR 2.8-12mm ƒ/1.4. I've had hours and hours of great fun, learned quite a lot, had a really worthwhile and enjoyable experience sharing my results with other members of like mind here on the forum and otherwise found the whole exercise to have much practical value going forward in terms of actual dash cam use when at some point one or more of these telephoto lenses will become a permanent part of my dash cam "arsenal". I've also shared all this with the kids I work with at the local environmental center who eat this stuff up while learning about wildlife observation and photography. Many of these kids have now become Mobius devotees themselves and their parents love the fact that you can buy a couple of Mobius cameras for far less than the cost of a single GoPro. (which is what most kids seem to be clamoring for these days.)

As for the threaded lens holder part of the module base, I've also swapped in a longer beefier one than the original that came with the Mobius as I happen to have couple that were sent to me by a camera developer. I have a few others I've scrounged from old cameras. It's true that it can be hard to find them for sale with 18mm screw hole spacing but you'll find a few on AliExpress at modest prices. One word of caution, be aware that changing threaded lens barrels, even brand new pristine ones can easily throw a lens out of alignment which will require careful adjustment. I encountered this with my Varifocal IR lens at one point even though close inspection of the threaded barrel mount I installed on the module reveals no obvious misalignment. See the blur on the far left side of THIS image to see what I am talking about. At first I thought the lens itself had developed a problem but I finally figured out that it was the alternative threaded barrel I'd installed on the Mobius module.
 
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Asked a couple of lens sellers on AE about the kind of adhesive used to stick IR filters to M12 lenses.

Reply from the seller I got my older 8mm from -

"Hello there! We use the glue is the deployment of engineers, under normal circumstances, the use of UV glue, and then cured UV glue curing machine."

I'm guessing the UV pens should be okay.
 
I haven't settled on a favorite setup yet. In principle I want a telephoto and a wide angle lens in both front and rear screens. I'm going to try a telephoto in a Mobius 2 to see how it goes.

I think the 6mm or 8mm should be enough for the rear. Since I can safely rely on just the 12mm, let's see how the 8mm does in the rear.

Looking forward to see your results with the M2.
 
I think the 6mm or 8mm should be enough for the rear. Since I can safely rely on just the 12mm, let's see how the 8mm does in the rear.

Looking forward to see your results with the M2.
I've had a 6mm F1.2 as my only rear camera for a while. Recently swapped to the 130deg M2 and remembered how much of the FOV is wasted on the car's trim and pillars. From my mount position I think a 90deg lens is the maximum angle I want to use (perhaps my A2).
 
I've had a 6mm F1.2 as my only rear camera for a while. Recently swapped to the 130deg M2 and remembered how much of the FOV is wasted on the car's trim and pillars. From my mount position I think a 90deg lens is the maximum angle I want to use (perhaps my A2).

It's interesting how much rear focal length choice depends on the particular vehicle. Driving a pick-up truck I find it vital to have coverage on either side of the bed. I've found the Mobius B lens to be the best compromise between a wide and narrow FOV for this purpose. I can see the value of zoning in on the license plates of the vehicles directly behind me however and am now consider adding a second Mobius with the 6mm ƒ/1.2 option.


rear2.jpg
 
Rear

8mm (1/2.7"), f/1.5


8mm (1/2.7"), f/1.5 and A119S (CPL)


That lens does a nice job, even with having to contend with the bright headlights.

It's fascinating how some of these aftermarket lenses almost give the impression that the Mobius has a different sensor.
 
That lens does a nice job, even with having to contend with the bright headlights.

It's fascinating how some of these aftermarket lenses almost give the impression that the Mobius has a different sensor.

Yup, I really like this f/1.5 8mm.

May not be a "real tele photo lens for action camera", but for $10 I think it's money well-spent. :)
 
Decisions, decisions....
Which Mobius & lens combination today?
IMG_20180205_230958-01.jpeg

I'm going to try transplanting the 4mm F1.2 into a Mobius 2.
 
The 4mm F1.2 (14.05mm barrel diameter) fits snugly within the M2 (14.25mm aperture).
IMG_20180206_000740-01.jpeg
The battery is not looking good though, and isn't holding charge for long. Time to find my supercaps.
IMG_20180206_000930-01.jpeg
 
Got a reply with a picture from Treeye, they use this -

HTB1a5l.XN1YBuNjy1zcq6zNcXXah.jpg

I've asked for the exact part/variant number.
 
Got a reply with a picture from Treeye, they use this -

View attachment 36234

I've asked for the exact part/variant number.


I think that may be one of these two products. It's possible from what I understand at this point that these industrial UV cements may require more than the average UV flashlight for proper curing and that some of them can require extended exposure times. I'm trying to find more definitive info.

kafuter.jpg
kafuter2.jpg
 

Instructions: K-3022
Usage: high mercury UV irradiation
The first step, surface treatment: Depending on the material, surface dry and clean, no weak boundary layer;
The second step, coating groups of plastic: continuous coating groups of plastic, do not disperse;
The third step, light positioning: short-term radiation, light hand could not move;
The fourth step is to remove groups of plastic overflow: scraping knife, cloth, paper towel, gently erase excess glue can be dipped in acetone, alcohol;
The fifth step, shadowless glue fully cured: Prolonged high radiation, until fully cured, do not pay attention to the temperature is too high;
Step Six: Clean: soft cloth / paper towel dipped in acetone, alcohol and gently wipe the bonding surface prior to coating shall be dust, oil, dried (glass surfaces should be removed with an organic solvent such as acetone water film), to determine the amount of glue needed (not too much). After James finished adhesive bonding surface collapse, with a little glue evenly distributed so that the beat and expel air bubbles, using a high pressure mercury lamp 20w of 10 ~ 20s can be cured. If the power of the first high pressure mercury lamp irradiation 3-5 seconds to position them, then use a low-power high-pressure mercury lamp for about 5 minutes would be better.
 
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