New announcement on Instagram

The 522 manual I'm sure says 15 minutes, down from 30 and points out it's no replacement for a powered source.
I'm going to check out the 522 and rear cam later as I want to update my 512 with one that can actually provide a nighttime picture.
I just hope that the rear isn't a different fixed connection like the site and manual shows, otherwise the roof liner will have to be peeled back again, all for another lead
And if it is attached permanently I see that as a minus.
 
Let us know whether it is

a) new power required for the front dashcam
b) new wire required to connect the rear camera

Halfords have just replaced my rear camera as it died.

If it is a swap out, then I will give the 512 to my wife and get the 522 plus the rear camera.

Although I did notice that you can connect a rear camera to the front one directly - not sure how good that will be in real life.....
 
No new power according to the Halfords guy. The fitting kit is the same.
As for the rear camera, the cable is built in and seems to be like a mini HDMI cable, and the corresponding port on the side of the 522 is the same.
Same sort of mini HDMI that's also on the other modules
 
Let us know whether it is

a) new power required for the front dashcam
b) new wire required to connect the rear camera

Halfords have just replaced my rear camera as it died.

If it is a swap out, then I will give the 512 to my wife and get the 522 plus the rear camera.

Although I did notice that you can connect a rear camera to the front one directly - not sure how good that will be in real life.....


The wiring for power is unchanged across Series 1 & 2.

The modules that plug in for looking behind you have 2 different lenses - one zoomed to look through the rear window, one wide angle to see into the car interior. You can also connect a cam directly onto the back window via a cable (6m long). However, the rear cam has the new smaller mini HDMI connector too where it plugs in to the front cam.
 
Thanks.

So the cable going to the rear camera will not work and would need to be replaced?

The front one will work fine.
 
Yeh the rear camera cable is a built in, foot long, 3.5mm headphone jack style, which then plugs in to a 6m 3.5mm female connector and with a mini HDMI on the other end.
So the old cable will need pulled out, replaced and the new one fitted.
 
Had a look at the range today.....

Unless I'm mistaken the new hardwire kit terminates with a 90 degree mini USB whereas the old kit was a straight mini USB. So will the old straight USB fit into the new mount ? If it does then it's going to stick out sideways and not like the new kit that will route the wire straight up into the headlining.

The 422 is quite neat and dinky, the 522 is noticeably larger, side by side.
The 422 has no polarising lens but the 522 does. However, the 422 plus £20 for the lens makes it the same price as the 522...... assuming the existing polariser lens fits.

I couldn't test the ball joint stiffness as the Halfords displays don't use them.
 
I've bought the new 522 and rear cam for half price from Halfords and booked in to get the rear cam removed and new one fitted. My rear cam cable is a total scutter in my car so gonna get them to do it.

The guy did say he's fitted one already and just used the old hardwire kit.
Not to fussed with the right angled cable due to the electronic crap at the top of my windscreen and mirror array.

The one thing I'm not happy with is the 2 part built in cable for the rear camera though.
But in saying that as long as the main rear camera cable doesn't go bad, it should be simple to just remove the rear cam if faulty.

I still feel burned from last years "1" series, and Nextbase not fixing the parking mode issues, or even acknowledging they existed fully.
 
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Thanks Tony

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to drive over some less than perfect roads, which is where the series 1 failed, and supply a download of the RAW footage for us :)

Playing dashcam footage via YT is never anywhere near the quality of a ~350Mb downloaded file.
 
Massively disappointing about not coming with a USB power cable.
 
Yep, works just fine with the old nextbase hardwire kit, and the lack of a right angle on it is negligible to be honest.
And am very impressed with the new magnetic mount both for rigidity and ease of attaching/detaching
 
Itching here....
 
To clarify, that is not my review of the 522gw it was another persons unboxing review off YouTube I was just uploading it for others to watch.

Thanks
 
Itching here....
I have just finished fitting the 422GW into my car.
My Garmin 55 died yesterday so I was forced to act.
The 522GW was simply too big. Sure it has a big screen but i don't need that in a car. The 422GW looks to be exactly the same specs but with a smaller screen thus it's a smaller unit.
So as I have a pair of USB ports installed into the back of the glovebox for just this purpose, all I had to do was dig out a 3m mini USB cable (because the Garmin used a Micro USB) and run it around the headlining and door pillar. All in it took me about 20 minutes to swap out the cameras.
First impressions are positive. Picture quality looks good, menus are simple and the new mount is nice and neat.
I'm not convinced I need the polarising filter but give me a few days to see. My windscreen is quite steep (I drive a mini) so refections are never really a problem.
Right now however the app for IOS is not in the app store. Nextbase are waiting on approval from Apple so hopefully it will only be a couple of days.
Give me a couple of days and I will post up some sample videos but so far so good.
 
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I'm getting mine tomorrow so will have a dabble meself.
 
The cable it comes with has a mini USB on the camera end and a 12v cigarette lighter fitting on the other. This fitting drops the 12v down to 5v

If you already have a USB port you can use then you could use a USB to USB cable instead which as @GuyRilla said, can be picked up on Amazon of Ebay for a few quid. This is what I have done

The picture shows what came in the box. Also in the box is a standard USB cable which is about a meter long which is used to connect the camera to your computer if you need to

IMG_2131.jpeg
 
Well, front and rear in..
Rear seriously messes with DAB, no matter where the cable is routed.

Through the passenger side, excess cable left in loop in frame arm, and camera on the passenger side corner of windscreen, like the rear cam box shows, zero DAB radio.
Through the passenger side, excess cable left in a loop in frame arm, and fed into passenger side of windscreen, camera lower down, some serious thumping/clicking/audio glitches.
Through the passenger side, excess cable left as a loop in frame arm, and fed into camera in centre of rear windscreen, I get a signal, but I cannot leave more than about 6 inches of join/cable exposed or the signal goes.
There's enough to not snag or stretch, but looking in the rear mirror you can see the cable join, hanging down, just to the side of the cable.

And the more I moved the camera around the windscreen, the worse the signal gets, until it gets to a point where if i touch the car body, the radio cuts off, let the body go, and the music comes back.

The only place I get a perfect signal, up till now, is smack bang in the centre, right at the top edge of the boot lid/windscreen, with the join exposed, and about 3" of cable above and below it.

Far harder to position, and get a signal than the 1 series, IMO.

And the angle of the attached cable, camera end, with it sort of angling at the bottom, precludes me from angling the camera as far down as I want, there is still lots of sky onscreen, unlike the front.
A lot of faffing around today, for example, attach mount and camera, radio cuts out, pop camera off mount, radio comes back..etc, etc, etc.

Picture quality is great though.
 
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