Parking Mode/Low Voltage Shutoff Installation?

jbt3

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I just purchased a CF100 and am getting excited about installing this unit.
(Big shout out to Gibson99 for his help.)

I have a lack of understanding pertaining to Parking Mode. I think parking mode is either continuous recording or short clips of recording whenever the vehicle's ignition is turned off and the G-Sensor is activated.
What is Parking Mode?

I also don't understand how to hard wire this unit to the fuse box. I have experience with radar detectors, but that seems like a different animal.

Blacksys recommends the P-Saver Cable specifically for the CF100. Reading through the forums though, I found this cable was difficult to find and most people seemed to order a Low Voltage Cutoff instead. Gibson99 thread pertaining to installation (located here) was very helpful. Within it he list the OjoCam Fuse Box Hardwire Adaptor. I also read some people were using the MotoPark Multi Safer.

Why is a Low Voltage Cutoff required and and why do I need it if I want use Parking Mode?
What is the recommended Low Voltage Cutoff product and where should I purchase it?

Thank you for your help as it is very much appreciated.
 

kuoh

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The P-Saver cable is likely nothing more than the regular power cable with a fuse and bare ends to connect to a permanent power source. You could do the same with an add-on cigarette lighter receptacle. A low voltage cutoff device isn't required for parking mode use, but it will reduce the chances of you being stuck in a parking lot with a dead battery. You can use any unit you like, but I used the MotoPark with my CF 100, since it was easy to wire, low profile and provides a simple cigarette lighter socket to interface with the camera, meaning I didn't need to buy the P-Saver cable or another add-on.

KuoH
 

Gibson99

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right, the p-saver cable isn't a good idea because as @kuoh says, it can leave you with a dead battery. any battery drain prevention device will work as long as it has a cigarette lighter type socket as its output. i'm looking at buying a second cf-100 now that they seem to be on fire sale. and it looks like the power magic pro is on sale right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B008B8ERIO
they all work pretty much the same. it has 3 wires to connect to the car: one that's always live (+battery), one that's only live when the key is on (+accessory) and a ground. then you set the little DIP switches on the device to determine how long it'll run before cutting power to the dashcam - most have a delay of time (hours) and/or low-voltage. i have my wife's set to run indefinitely, until the battery hits 12.2v.
 
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jbt3

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Thanks guys.
Just so i'm sure I understand correctly, the camera may run indefinitely until the predetermined time or low voltage is triggered, turning off the unit.

Not to be smart, but isn't 12.2v a little low for the car battery?
i have my wife's set to run indefinitely, until the battery hits 12.2v.
This is probably where i'm tripping up a bit with my understanding.
Electrical work isn't my strength, but i'm not terrible either, so I think...

Thanks again!
 

kuoh

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It depends on the vehicle and battery. In vehicles with larger engines and a smallish battery, it may not be enough. While a smaller engine, like a 4 cyl Honda, might not have any issues starting with only 11.6V. You will have to experiment to see what works best for your vehicle. Optionally, you can choose to buy a cheap jumper pack and keep it in the car just in case. I keep a Powerall lithium ion rechargeable jumper pack in mine. It's small enough to fit in a glovebox, weighs a pound or so, can keep its charge for over 6 months and still have power to jump start a Ford Expedition V6 with no battery connected.

KuoH

Not to be smart, but isn't 12.2v a little low for the car battery?
 

Gibson99

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Thanks guys.
Just so i'm sure I understand correctly, the camera may run indefinitely until the predetermined time or low voltage is triggered, turning off the unit.

Not to be smart, but isn't 12.2v a little low for the car battery?


This is probably where i'm tripping up a bit with my understanding.
Electrical work isn't my strength, but i'm not terrible either, so I think...

Thanks again!
12.2 was enough for our 2008 Toyota sienna with a 3.5L v6 and a group 35 battery, and its also enough for our 2008 Highlander hybrid, with a 3.3L v6 and a tiny civic sized battery.
 
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jbt3

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Thank you both.
I just so happen to drive a 2005 3.3L Highlander and a 2010 Toyota Corolla. :D
 

Gibson99

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Thank you both.
I just so happen to drive a 2005 3.3L Highlander and a 2010 Toyota Corolla. :D
your highlander has the larger group35 (or maybe 24f) battery like our sienna did, and the corolla also has a 24f from what i remember. the hybrid has a smaller battery since it's not actually used to crank the engine - the little 12v battery is used to power up the inverters and computers, and then the big 300v hybrid battery is what actually starts the gas engine when it's needed.

source: i was a toyota mechanic for almost a decade. :)
 
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jbt3

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My BlackSys CF100 and MotoPark Low Voltage Cutoff arrived! :D

I started looking into how to supply this unit power and as expected, started feeling a little unsure of myself. I attached a portion of the MotoPark Instructions (english) and a picture of the fuse box diagram to my vehicle below. The only thing to note is that I have a radar detector pulling power from [CIG 15A].

To supply the unit power, where should I tap my fuse box for the following wires?
(3) Yellow: Constant power supply, battery (+) power supply
(4) Black: Constant power supply, battery (-) power supply
(5) Red: ACC (+) powersupply
MotoPark Directions.jpg
Fuse Box.jpg
 

kuoh

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Do you have a multimeter to test for power? If any of the "door" fuses have 12V when the key is out, then they should be good candidates for (yellow) constant power. If not, then possibly the PWR OUTLET1 or STOP will work, though there is the slight risk of no working rear stop lights if there is a wiring issue that blows the fuse. For (red) ACC power, you could use CIG, heater or rear wiper. Avoid the IGN, ECU, OBD, FUEL or any other critical circuits. Ground (black) can be attached any screw/bolt that is attached to a solid metal surface, but it is best to check all points with a meter.

KuoH
 

Gibson99

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also avoid circuits like the seat heaters. they introduce a LOT of electrical noise into your recordings - static in the video and humming in the audio. personally i like tapping into circuits like power windows or sunroof, if available. those are pretty much always key-switched.
 
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jbt3

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Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the help you have given me.
I got her up and running and everything looks great except for some software issues.
 
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