Reviewing and Testing the new Vantrue E360 Ace Dashcam

[Sawyer]

I acknowledge that using an original USB cable may not be the appropriate method for charging a GPS-powered module. Therefore, I intend to take the camera today to test all original connections, ensuring compatibility with the Cellink Neo 8+ either through its USB port or the vehicle’s adapter socket. Additionally, I am awaiting the arrival of hardwire connection connectors to avoid excessive cable twisting, as I need to thoroughly test and continue using the 70mai as my primary cloud-based camera for the time being.

 

[Karagandinez]

Mine doesn't turn off. It just restarts and comes back on in about 2-3 seconds. What am I doing wrong?

I'm powering it either with a power bank or power adapter. Same behavior.

Try connecting it in the car from the voltage converter for the cigarette lighter from the kit.
Works without problems for me.
Sometimes the E360 restarts if it is connected at home from a weak power supply.

 

[Sawyer]

I'm planning to take care of that today and probably install the new camera tomorrow. I might need to take the Viofo down unless I can find a spot above it since the new cam is a bit bigger. Fingers crossed it all fits smoothly!

 

[sky1111]

Hmm... guys, this is does not adding up.
I am using Vantrue-provided USB-A to USB-C cable with a fully charged massive Anker power bank that is rated to power up laptops. The peak power consumption (the power bank has an LCD screen) does not exceed 4.9W; while the dashcam is working, the typical power value is between 4.3W and 4.8W. The same power cable charges my iPhone with ~7.4W-7.6W, so the cable definitely is not the limiting factor
Using a very short USB-A to USB-C power cable results in exactly same behaviour, same power numbers.
LTE module is not present or enabled, no rear dashcam, so I cannot think of a reason why would dashcam needs more power.

Now I tried to connect the power the unit itself; no reboots, power consumption is roughly the same, but I did see a couple of peaks reaching 5.1W, however the sustained power is below 4.8W.

Standard USB-C to USB-C power/data cable does not power up the dashcam (?!). This means the voltage regulators on dashcam are only meant for 5V power supply and cannot handle higher voltages (cuts the power to protect itself) - @Jeff_Vantrue please clarify

Key observations:
- reboot cycle only happens when the dashcam is powered thru the GPS module. Same power supply/cable, connected directly to the dashcam - no issue
- reboot cycle consistent ~60 seconds
- USB-C to USB-C cannot power the dashcam, regardless of the plug being used

Next step is try car adapter...

 

[Karagandinez]

Standard USB-C to USB-C power/data cable does not power up the dashcam (?!). This means the voltage regulators on dashcam are only meant for 5V power supply and cannot handle higher voltages (cuts the power to protect itself) - @Jeff_Vantrue please clarify

- USB-C to USB-C cannot power the dashcam, regardless of the plug being used

The model is different, but the essence of the problem is the same.

D

Thread 'A229 Pro is not working on usb-c cables?'

Nov 30, 2023

I was wondering after i got my new A229 Pro. The camera was just working on usb-a to usb-c cable. All usb-c to usb-c cables on different sources were not working…
Is it kind of fake usb-c? Why its not working on a real usb-c cable?

• DaveX81
• Replies: 19
• Forum: A229 Pro

 

[Sawyer]

The only thing I can think of is that it now exceeds the 5V USB-A limit when on the mount.

as for the USB C to USB C problem. The viofo mini 2 and even the tp link tapo c120 security camera won't start on a USB C cable. They all need this little USB A to USB C adapters in front. Bought a lot of them from temu and they work.

 

[sky1111]

The only thing I can think of is that it now excedes the 5V USB-A limit when on the mount.

Fair enough, but if the same power source/cable can provide 7.6W to iPhone, why that would be limit here?
How much GPS module itself can possibly consume that dashcam + GPS overload USB-A limit?

By the way, even when the dashcam is connected directly, it still shows GPS coordinates, and GPS icon is normal on the screen.

If it smells like a FW bug, walks like a FW bug and talks like FW bug, maybe it is a FW bug? 🙂

 

[Sawyer]

Ofcourse it looks and sounds like a bug, but if it was really changed for a reason then it can only be because of stability. Makes no sense thats why I came here asking if my is faulty. Will see how it behaves with the cellink neo in a hour or 2.

 

[runtohell121]

I definitely experienced constant reboot when using different USB-A to USB-C cable and power adapter (Samsung 40w Car USB charger and Nissan USB port). However, if plugging the USB-C directly to the camera (not the GPS mount), it seems to work fine, though you lose out on the rear camera capability if you're using the rear camera.

The OBDII hardwire option in the Nissan sometimes shuts off due to low voltage, which might be how the car operates - not too sure as it's not my personal vehicle; it's just a rental since my personal vehicle was rear-ended. I definitely wish I had a suction mount for ease of swapping the Vantrue E360 to different vehicles just for cases like these.

I know it's definitely not the best video quality due to wide/fisheye angle lens, but good enough to capture what's happening.

 

[Sawyer]

Alright. Just tested out everything even the viofo original cable with cellink. Several problems. It doesn't reboot anymore but you still can't turn it off as it comes back on instantly what usually means it's a no go as there is still a possibility.

Original car charger works fine but it has a freaking blue light that leeches 8mA when the camera is turned off still. Can't leave it connected. Maybe I could try a different car cable without this?

Directly to car charger work but mine is always on so I only got problems with more problems with such a design.

 

[EricSan]

All of my power tests have been performed with the Vantrue provided power cables connected to the 12 utility port of my EcoFlow power station (and now in my car). I have not experienced any power cycling at all.

If you are powering the Vantrue camera (which wants to consume more than 6w of power) from a USB-A port (of any generation), it's likely that power cycling is a symptom of a voltage/current starvation issue. No USB-A port, not even USB3.0 can provide enough power to this dashcam. All electrical devices want to draw a certain amount of power in order to function properly (power = voltage x current). I'm simplifying things a little bit here, but if the camera can't source enough power and the voltage level is fixed (not variable), then the device will attempt to make up the differnce by drawing additional current. As you max out the amount of current that any power supply can provide, the voltage level starts to sag. So, if you have a 5.0v USB-A power supply that is rated for 4.5w and you try to draw 6w out of it, the voltage level will drop below 5.0v. The greater the current draw, the more the voltage level will sag. This means the power supply is not providing enough voltage or current for the camera to funciton properly. The super cap acts like a small reservior for the power supply: It charges more slowly than the rate at which the camera wants to siphon off the power. As the cap gets sufficiently charged, the camera turns on and draws down the charge level, which then causes the camera to turn off again. Lather, rinse, repeat...

https://www.etechnophiles.com/usb-port-power-output/

This is why the Vantrue power supplies (both the Utility Port adapter and the Hard Wire Kit) use USB-C connectors. They both draw from a 12v source and use a USB-C connector which is capable of providing more power than USB-A ports can.

I ran into this same issue when I first hardwired my Viofo camera (I had extended the cable, which they specifically recommend NOT to do). I was a bit humbled to realize my issue was a case of self-inflicted "user error" rather than a "design error."

 

[Sawyer]

What about this? USB-A to USB C from the cellink neo8+. But like I said it does turn back on when you turn it off so I cant really use it.

 

[sky1111]

All of my power tests have been performed with the Vantrue provided power cables connected to the 12 utility port of my EcoFlow power station (and now in my car). I have not experienced any power cycling at all.

If you are powering the Vantrue camera (which wants to consume more than 1A of current) from a USB-A port (of any generation), it's likely that power cycling is a symptom of a voltage/current starvation issue. No USB-A port, not even USB3.0 can provide enough power to this dashcam. All electrical devices want to draw a certain amount of power in order to function properly (power = voltage x current). I'm simplifying things a little bit here, but if the camera can't source enough power and the voltage level is fixed (not variable), then the device will attempt to make up the differnce by drawing additional current. As you max out the amount of current that any power supply can provide, the voltage level starts to sag. So, if you have a 5.0v USB-A power supply that is rated for 4.5w and you try to draw 6w out of it, the voltage level will drop below 5.0v. The greater the current draw, the more the voltage level will sag. This means the power supply is not providing enough voltage or current for the camera to funciton properly. The super cap acts like a small reservior for the power supply: It charges more slowly than the rate at which the camera wants to siphon off the power. As the cap gets sufficiently charged, the camera turns on and draws down the charge level, which then causes the camera to turn off again. Lather, rinse, repeat...

View attachment 76220
https://www.etechnophiles.com/usb-port-power-output/

This is why the Vantrue power supplies (both the Utility Port adapter and the Hard Wire Kit) use USB-C connectors. They both draw from a 12v source and use a USB-C connector which is capable of providing more power than USB-A ports can.

Your explanation while completely logical, does not explain what we observe.

1) My USB-A power source is NOT limited at 900mA, as I proved that by using the same Vantrue provided USB-A to USB-C cable, I was able to charge iPhone at much higher power level (7.6W). So power supply and cable are NOT the bottlenecks
2) connecting directly to dashcam eliminates the reboots, HOWEVER power consumption, measured at source, remains the same; the dashcam routinely runs at 4.8W, however NO reboots. How can you explain that? (GPS module is still powered (and GPS coordinates are recorded), which suggests that regardless where you connect the power, you basically consume approximately the same power)

 

[EricSan]

I did a quick and dirty install for the Vatrue E360 in my Volvo S60. The Volvo presented some placement challenges as it has a large "IntelliSafe" module for it's Pilot Assist and Collision Avoidance systems that is mounted directly behind the rear view mirror. This module is somewhat large and obstructs the 360 degree view of the camera.

Placing the E360 directly to either side of the IntelliSafe Module doesn't really work in terms of allowing the 360 degree function to work. Placing it at the top of the windshield or moving it down a few inches results in the same camera obstruction in addition to interfering with my sun visor. Because of the larger profile of this camera (greater distance between the windshield and the bottom of the camera), placement is a bit sensitive to range of movement of your sunvisor.

If you wish to access the E360 touch screen, you need to keep the camera on the driver's side of the mirror or centered under the mirror. If you place the camera on the passenger side of the car, it will likely be easier to operate it through the app.

The only viable install location in my S60 is centered below the IntelliSafe Module so the cabin facing camera can see below the rear view mirror as shown below. You can see my Viofo camera in the background.

EDIT: I didn't think to show this perspective earlier in the day, so here are some images to show the relative differences in "profile" of the Vantrue and Viofo cameras. The first shows the distance from the windshield to the Vantrue E360 camera in my low-profile sedan. In a larger vehicle, such as a truck or SUV, the windshield is likely to be more vertical, thus decreasing the distance between the windshield and the camera.

Here is the same view from the passenger side of the car. In the foreground is my Viofo A139 Pro. Centered under the rearview mirror, the Vanture is not obtrusive at all, though it does potentially introduce a blindspot for the driver, again depending on the specific configuration of your windshield and placement of your rearview mirror.

 

[EricSan]

Your explanation while completely logical, does not explain what we observe.

I think my explanation does explain what is going on.

In order to fully understand exactly what you are experiencing, it would be useful to see a photograph of your wiring configuration. You are revealing information peacemeal, which makes it difficult to accurately understand what you are doing. The power meter on your Anker (or other) power station is likely not accurate at such low current levels (5w), especially if it is intended to charge laptops (up to 100w) or provide AC output voltage (up to 200-300w). My EcoFlow power station does not accurately report power draw in the 1-10w range. This is why I showed voltage and current ratings from an external USB-A and USB-C power meter in post #5 above. This device is intended to measure only USB-level voltage and current and is far more accurate (I've verified its measurements).

Comparing power draw of the camera to power draw of charging an iPhone may not be directly comparable due to the presence of the super capacitors inside the dashcam's power supply chain (resistive vs capacitive power supply loads). I suspect this is why the power consumption of the cameras (both Viofo and Vantrue) look like saw-tooth waveforms (varying up and down over time) instead of appearing as a flat/constant power draw.

What about this? USB-A to USB C from the cellink neo8+.

Typical USB-A ports are spec'd as shown in the graphic I posted above. Some devices with USB-A ports actually deliver LESS than 5.0v to prevent damaging connected devices with too high of a voltage. Using a generic USB-A for this dashcam is simply asking that port to deliver beyond it's design specifications. The exception to this is using the Vantrue provided USB-A to USB-C cable with the orange USB-A port on Vantrue provided 12v Utility Port adapter that delivers 2.4A. The Celllink Neo 8+ website specifications do not include current limits for the USB-A port. Thus, I suspect it conforms to the USB specs I posted above. Perhaps the Neo8 manual provides data about the USB port current limits…

This is why the Vantrue Utility Port adapter and the Vantrue Hard Wire Kit are each specified to deliver 2.4A (12w) of current. It prevents the starvation issues that you seem to be experiencing.

If you experience power cycling with the Vantrue camera while powered by the Vantrue provided power supplies, then it sounds like there might be an issue for @Jeff_Vantrue to address. If you are experiencing power cycling of the Vantrue camera when powered by non-Vantrue power supply components, then you've discovered less-than-robust third party power supplies and/or power cables.

 

[sky1111]

hi @EricSan ,

- My power source is Anker 737 power bank, rated for 18W power delivery from USB-A port. Here are full specs: https://www.anker.com/ca/products/a1289?variant=44175002599588#!
- Passing configuration:

 

[sky1111]

And here is the failing configuration - same power attached to GPS module:

:

 

[sky1111]

I do owe this forum to try Vantrue car plug-in kit; apologies for the delays - holidays/family/etc. - and the weather here is Ontario these days really not helping.

 

[EricSan]

Hmmm... Curious situation. Thanks for the images. The knee-jerk reaction is that the GPS unit places additional power demands on the power supply than the camera itself, so this likely explains the power cycling. But if the USB-A port is "truly" capable of delivering 18w while maintaining 5.0v output voltage, then this shouldn't be a problem.

I just powered my E360 in the same manner: I used the Vantrue USB-A to USB-C cable plugged into the USB-A port on my EcoFlow River 2 and connected to the GPS unit mounted to the E360. It works fine, though the voltage level is a bit low at about 4.85v. With a longer cable that introduces resistive power losses, it's likely to cause some problems. This is why the Vantrue power supplies provide about 5.20v, when you factor in losses on a long cable run, it still has sufficient voltage to operate. I learned this with my Viofo wiring because the EcoFlow provides less than the specified 5.0v for the USB-A ports. Perhaps your Anker power supply provides a low output voltage and that is the source of your power cycling problem? Being able to attach a USB power meter would provide some additional insights about what is going on in your situation. You can find them on Amazon by searching for "USB Power Meter." Another thing to try is a different USB cable. Multiple times in the past, I've come across a bad USB cable, they just wear down over time from cable flexing.

Funny, I have that very same flashlight that is behind your camera - it's my favorite small light, nice and bright!

 

[EricSan]

I've finally made a few videos with the Vantrue E360 camera. I found a few blocks close to the office where I could drive the same loop over and over again, each time using a different resolution setting for comparison. I need to download some video editing software that will allow me to zoom in on some fine details in order to make some comparisons. I also had to create a YouTube account as I've never uploaded videos before. I kept getting warnings about my videos because YouTube was finding the music that I had playing in the car, so I told YouTube to mute the audio track. We'll see how that turned out...

I did not editing any of these videos, I uploaded them exactly as they came from the camera. I am unaware of what kind of alterations YouTube might perform when the videos are uploaded, though.

So far, here is what I have.

Vantrue E360 1080 Front Camera:

Vantrue E360 1080 Rear Window Camera:

Vantrue E360 1440 Front Camera:

Vantrue E360 1440 Rear Window Camera:

Vantrue E360 1944 Front Camera:

Vantrue E360 1944 Cabin Camera:

Vantrue E360 1994 Rear Window Camera:

Vantrue E360 Fisheye Front Camera:

Vantrue E360 Fisheye Cabin Camera:

Vantrue E360 Dual Fisheye Front + Cabin Cameras:

I have to say that I'm a fan of those wide-angle lenses! They provide much more periphery visual information than my Viofo camera. As for specialty purposes, if you are a taxi or Uber driver, this is an AWESOME camera because you get a nice interior view as well to document if something goes wrong with a passenger. I can also see the value after an accident of documenting the fact that you weren't on your phone at the time of the accident.

I made a nice little discovery while driving with the E360, the little green LED on the rear window camera is pretty easy to see (at least on an overcast day) in my rear view mirror. It is not obtrusive at all and it's nice to be able to confirm that the camera is powered up and functioning without any hassle.

Seems that I've hit my daily YouTube upload limit for now, more later...