Reviewing and Testing the new Vantrue E360 Ace Dashcam

[EricSan]

Imagine my delight when Jeff reached out to me and asked if I would review their new Vantrue E360 Ace dashcam! It arrived a short while later and I was quite surprised by the significant weight of a rather small sized box. I have not yet installed the E360 in my car, so here are some photos of the contents of the box along with some initial impressions.

My other Vantrue dashcam reviews can be found here: E360, E1 Pro, N4S, S1 Pro Max, N4 Pro S, N5S
Vantrue Power (non-dashcam) Product Reviews: T800 Compressed Air Duster, TS2 Thermal Camera for iOS/Android

Features:​

• Front and Cabin: 5.2K (5184x1944P) 360-degree panoramic recording!!
• Sony STARVIS 2 IMX675 Sensor
• Quad-Core CPU offers greater efficiency
• Multiple recording modes
• 8 Infrared LED lights improve night vision capability (4 forward facing, 4 cabin facing)
• 5GHz high-frequency Wi-Fi support
• 15s Pre-Recording Buffered Motion Detection
• Supports up to 1TB microSD card
• Comprehensive recording for enhanced safety
• Touchscreen for menu navigation

The Vantrue E360 is a revolutionary camera and is the first (to the best of my knowledge) to offer a true 360 degree view of your car from a single camera unit. This is achieved with a main camera unit that has both a forward and rear facing image sensors, each equipped with a wide angle 210 degree fisheye lens. The E360 software stitches these two images together in a manner that is quite unique and satisfying. There is also a dedicated rear-facing camera for mounting on the rear window that features a 165 degree field of view.

Vantrue E360 Manual and Firmware Download page:

Vantrue E360 | Product Manuals, Firmware Upgrades, and FAQs

Explore comprehensive product manuals, firmware upgrades, and frequently asked questions (FAQs) for Vantrue E360 dash cam. Access detailed instructions, troubleshooting tips, and the latest firmware updates to enhance your experience. Find answers to common queries and optimize your use of...

www.vantrue.com

First of all, the packaging materials are all very sturdy and of high quality, bestowing confidence that even if it was abused during delivery (haven’t we all received a crushed box with a boot print on it?), the camera and accessories are well-protected.

Opening the box reveals four sub-dividers that further protect and organize the accessories, an orange logo pictorial quick set up guide, and a laminate card with QR codes to activate an 18-month extended warranty on one side and a link for downloading the app on the other side. Other contents include two clear windshield static mounting films, two bright yellow “Protected by Vantrue” stickers (one in English and one in German), a nice microfiber cloth for cleaning camera lenses, and a set of directions for how to enter a “Share you best video and get a chance to win” either a hardwire kit or a 64GB memory card.

Here is an image of everything that comes in the Vantrue E360 Ace box:

The "E360 Ace" kit includes five accessories that are not included in the E360 kit: The handheld mount, the tripod, the velvet pouch, the rear camera, and the 20 foot rear camera cable.

A user's manual was not included in my box, but can be downloaded from the Vantrue website that is linked above.

What sets the E360 apart is its 360 degree recording capability. To the best of my knowledge, this is the first camera that offers this feature. This is an excellent feature for someone that drives on heavily congested roads - as in a four lane highway or in the middle of large city. It is also an ideal feature for parking mode that results in a view of the entire perimeter of your car.

 

[EricSan]

Taking things one sub-divider at a time, the white box on top contains the E360 camera itself and a nice, rectangular velvet pouch for holding some accessories (more on those below). The camera has two fish-eye lenses, one pointing forward to look out the front window and a second facing the passenger compartment. There is also a touch-screen above the interior-facing camera that works great for making the initial camera settings. The side of the camera has a button that will make an image with a quick press. Press and hold this same button to turn the camera on and off. The top of the camera (as installed in the car) has a 1/4" threaded insert (more details on this below) along with a USB-C port for either supplying power to the camera (when used on its own) or for powering the additional camera that is intended for rear window mounting. There is also a slide-mount connector for attaching the window swivel mount to the front camera. This same attachment also appears to house a GPS unit. The bottom of the camera features a cabin microphone and a microSD memory card slot.

The rubber stopper in the top pops out easily to reveal a 1/4" threaded insert for mounting the camera to other accessories (more details below). You can power the camera through this USB-C port, or use it to connect and power the rear camera.

Here is the row of connecting pins that accept the windshield swivel mount/GPS unit. Below the connector is the front facing wide angle camera.

The round power on/off button has a green ring light to let you know that it is powered up. The camera powers up automatically when it receives a 5v input signal. Hold for a few seconds to turn it off. A quick press makes an image. I've already made a few of my feet just by picking it up and accidentally pressing the button ;-) I also appreciate the pinhole reset button. Nice to know this is available if I run into trouble.

The bottom of the camera houses the microphone and the microSD memory card slot. I purposefully blurred the serial number of my review camera.

And here is the touch screen above the cabin-facing main camera. Despite its small size, it is easy to operate.

 

[EricSan]

The second sub-divider box contains a rather interesting pair of accessories: a hand-held adapter mount for the E360 camera and a matching tripod. The tripod has a standard 1/4" threaded screw at the top and three legs that both fold out AND extend into a locked position, providing a wider and more stable stance. Each of the three feet are angled so they make good contact with a table top surface and are even lined with rubber to provide good grip and resist sliding. If you have other cameras (digital point & shoot camera, webcam, small handheld dedicated digital video camera, etc.), you’ll recognize and appreciate the value of using a standard 1/4" thread here. I’m a huge fan of standards like this for interoperability of devices and gadgets. Very cool!

The hand-held adapter is surprisingly heavy, likely due to the two 18650 lithium ion rechargeable batteries that are tucked away inside of the metal cylindrical handle. The Vantrue website indicates these batteries provide 4 hours of recording time for the camera. I'll have to measure the battery record time. The rubberized grip is nicely textured, providing a secure feel in your hand. One side of the cradle adapter at the top features a USB-C 5v input connector for charging the batteries while the opposite side has an on/off button switch. Hold the button for a 3-count and a row of four small, green LEDs on the front under the E360 logo lights up, letting you know that the batteries are fully charged. Holding the button for another 3-count will turn off the battery power. The center of the cradle has another 1/4” threaded stud that holds the main camera quite securely along with a row of gold plated electrical contacts that deliver power to the camera. Mounting the E360 camera to the hand-held adapter is the quickest and easiest way to start setting up the camera and connecting it to the app on your phone or tablet.

The third sub-divider box contains an orange, plastic trim tool, a 12v Utility Port power supply adapter with a built in USB-A port on the back and a USB-C power cord for the camera, a USB-A to USB-C converter power cord, a tilt/swivel mount (with integral GPS) for attaching the main camera to the front windshield, two clip adapters for the windshield swivel mount with 3M Very High Bond adhesive already installed, six cable organizer clips (each with 3M VHB adhesive), and one spare 3M VHB adhesive for the rear-facing camera. The six cable clips could either be stuck to the edge of the windshield along the headliner and A-pillar (for people who are reluctant to go pulling the interior trim of their car apart) or for along the underside of the dash to keep unused length of wires out of the way.

Removing A-pillar trim covers varies by car and my son did NOT look comfortable at all when I first pulled his down and he heard the cracking sound of each of the plastic clips popping free. He was sure I had broken something, even though it was perfectly fine. In some instances, you may not need to remove as much trim as you think, and this is what the orange plastic trim tool is for. Sometime you can just lift the edge of the trim or the rubber door seal, lay the wire alongside the gap, and poke with the plastic tool to hide the wire. However you decide to run power supply wires, do be careful to avoid airbags that hide behind A-pillars and side curtain airbags that run across the top of side windows. You do NOT want the airbag deployment to get hung up in dashcam wires, leaving you exposed to additional trauma during an accident.

The Utility Port Adapter power supply USB-C cable measures about 11.5 feet (3.5m), which should be plenty to reach from your dash or center console around the dashboard, up the A-pillar and across to the center of the windshield. The Utility Outlet power supply cable is terminated with a 90-degree USB-C connector which I appreciate much more than had the connector been straight. Orienting the cable and the power receptacle on the window-mount GPS unit will keep the finished wiring closer to the windshield and easier to tuck into the headliner without leaving large loops of wire sticking out. Awesome attention to detail!

The fourth sub-divider box contains the rear-window camera (also with 3M VHB adhesive installed) and a USB-C power cable to connect the two cameras together. One end features a straight USB-C connector, while the other end features a 90-degree USB-C connector. The wire is about 20 feet (6.0m) in length, which should be plenty to connect the front and rear cameras together.

One nice detail with the 3M VHB is that there is a “pull tab” for easily removing the red backer! If you’ve ever played with this stuff before, you’ll recognize that it’s often VERY frustrating to peel the backer.

 

[EricSan]

In the shipping box from Vantrue were two additional accessories (available separately from the E360 camera): a 128GB microSD card with a standard size SD card adapter and a VP05 (II) Voltage Display Hardwire Kit. What I really appreciated about the Hardwire Kit is that the wires come terminated with barrel jacks and clear insulators! This saves the trouble of dragging out your soldering iron during installation and makes the overall process more quick and easy! The Hardwire Kit comes with 3M VHB already applied so the box can be securely mounted and on the front is a great little window that displays the voltage level coming from the car down to the tenth of a volt in bright green numbers. The regulator box is specified as providing 5v at 2.5A.

In another move that I greatly appreciate, the Hardwire Kit also comes with two plastic bags, each with four different size add-a-fuse adapters (each has a barrel jack connector attached to the wire end). The specific sizes should be sufficient to fit most cars:

2x ATO (19.1mm)
2x Mini (10.9mm)
2x Micro2 (9.1mm)
2x Low Profile Mini (10mm)

Providing two fuse taps of each size allows for one to be connected to the red Batt+ line and the other to the yellow ACC wire. I was also pleasantly surprised to see that each add-a-fuse connector already had a 5A fuse installed! Way to go! The completeness of the hardwire kit is just awesome: no extra trips to the hardware store or hunting for stuff on Amazon. Everything you need is in the box! A BIG thumbs up for no extra shopping trips👍

The 12v "input" wire to the voltage regulator box (with the barrel connectors) measures 39" or about 1 full meter in length. The 5v "output" wire that comes out of the regulator and powers the dashcam with a USB-C connector measures about 8 feet (about 2.5m) in length. Overall, that's more than 11 feet of cable to reach from your fusebox, around the dash, up the A-pillar and across the top of the windshield to the camera. That should be plenty long for most cars and larger vehicles.

Here is an image of the battery protecting low-voltage selector switch on the 12v to 5v regulator. There are three settings from which to choose: 12.4/24.4v, 12.0/24.0v, and 11.6/23.6v (more detail on this below).

Speaking of car battery voltages, the voltage regulator also has an awesome LCD display with bright green digits to indicate your current voltage level that is available at your fusebox. This will help eliminate guesswork and worry about your car's main battery voltage. As a gearhead, I REALLY appreciate thoughtful details like this!

The inner diameter of the grounding ring terminal is about 6mm, so it should easily fit a variety of grounding screws near your fusebox. Each wire is color coded according to convention and labelled with a sticker to help prevent getting them mixed up during installation.

Below is a close up of the female barrel terminal on the add-a-fuse wire:

...which fits on the male barrel connector on the 12v to 5v regulator as shown below. Awesome, I won't even need my crimping tool for the install!

As you can see in the closeup of the black ground wire, the individually colored wires are stranded copper wire for good flexibility during installation. The wires themselves are a bit thin, but they don't need to carry much current at all, so they are more than adequate for the job. According to Ohm's Law, the current draw on the 12v side of the regulator will be less than half of the current carried by the wires on the 5v side of the regulator because of the difference in voltages. Voltage and current measurements are posted below.

And finally, the microSD card (available separately):

 

[EricSan]

Before I install this in my car, I spent some time making a few voltage measurements to see what kind of power draw the camera has, as well as to measure the regulator output levels and battery protecting voltage cutoff levels. I did this mostly because I was curious and because I can 🙂

The corded Utility Port power supply provides 5.2v from the USB-C connector and 5.25v from the USB-A port (both measured with no load attached), suggesting that two separate voltage regulators are inside. The markings on the barrel of the plug indicate that the USB-A port and the wire connector are each rated at 5v and 2.4A. For my needs, the USB-A port is fine. Others might prefer a USB-C port here. As I have several charging ports in my car, this doesn't impact me in any way. For me, a final install will be made with the hardwire kit, so I view the Utility Port power supply cable as an infrequently used convenience that will enable moving the camera to another car ahead of a long trip. Markings on the Utility Plug wire indicate 22ga wire is used to attach the USB-C plug at the end. Another nice touch here is the addition of a green power on indicator below the USB-A plug on the Utility Plug power adapter so you know that it's getting power! Gotta love the attention to detail that is evident here! A feature like this may not seem like that big of a deal right away, but if you are in the middle of troubleshooting an installation that is not working properly, you'll quickly appreciate the power on indicator, the voltage meter on the hardwire kit regulator box, and the green power on dot for the rear camera!

With just the E360 main camera powered up, I'm seeing an average power draw of nearly 5w at 5.2v, which is just shy of 1A of current. With the GPS unit and rear camera connected, I'm seeing a total power draw that is closer to 6w or 1.2A. These figures are just about what I was expecting to see (in this context, a lack of surprises is a good thing). With this power draw, the output voltage from the Utility Outlet regulator held firm (rather than sagging) at 5.2v. When the rear camera is powered up, a tiny green led on the back of the camera (facing toward the front of the cabin) illuminates to let you know that it's getting power. Removing the power cable from the camera reveals that the camera continues to run about 2-3s after power is removed. Those few seconds of runtime are powered by a Super Capacitor so you don't have to worry about a lithium ion battery that has gone bad from heat exposure not properly saving that last video. During an accident, the most important video is the LAST video before your car's engine turns off... A super capacitor insures that you get to access this all-important last video.

The Voltage Display Hardwire Kit has a bright green LED readout that tracks voltage just a pinch low, by about 0.05v or so (my 6000 count DMM precisely matches a 6-digit lab-calibrated Agilent bench meter). Regardless of input voltage, it maintains a pretty consistent 5.01v to 5.03v output. I connected it to my bench power supply to test the input voltage range and the battery-protecting voltage cutoff points. I powered the Vantru regulator with a maximum of 18.0v and it maintained an even 5.01-5.03v. The regulator shut down as the voltage climbed above 19v, so I presume it was thinking it was installed in a 24v environment (instead of 12v) and it was time to turn itself off to save the car battery.

With the Vantrue 12v to 5v regulator battery protection switch set to 12.4v, it didn't shut down until the input voltage reached about 12.36v to 12.37v with both cameras powered. The regulator doesn't shut down immediately as the input voltage drops. It seems to take 2-3 minutes below the designated threshold before it powers down. The few minutes delay are rather inconsequential, the key is that it shuts down VERY close to where it is supposed to! I'm certainly not going to quibble over a few hundredths of a volt.

With the Vantrue regulator voltage cutoff switch set to 12.0v (it's middle setting), it didn't shut down until the input voltage declined to 11.92v to 11.93v.
With the regulator switch set to 11.6v, it shut down when the input dipped below 11.54v to 11.55v.
Overall, the voltage sensing levels work as they are supposed to and are accurate to a few hundredths of a volt. Nice!

When I powered the hardwire voltage regulator kit with my bench power supply and connected the red and yellow input wires (effectively bypassing the cutoff voltage setting), the regulator maintained full voltage output until the input dipped below 7.05v. Needing only 2v of headroom to operate (many regulators need more than 3v of headroom to function properly) indicates a pretty efficient regulator circuit is hiding inside the box. I also measured VERY little thermal rise for the regulator with a 12v-15v input voltage for more than an hour - this also indicates an efficient regulator inside the box. High efficiency means that more power is passed along to the camera rather than being eaten up with the regulator, enabling more hours of parking mode recording when the engine isn't running. This is EXCELLENT performance, both electrically and thermally!

The camera itself seems to exhibit a 20c rise over ambient after being powered on for an hour or so. This is pretty consistent with my expectations and matches my Viofo dashcam.

Overall, the electrical behavior is excellent! Next, I need to install it and make some videos and images!

 

[EricSan]

Here are a few more images. I thought I provided pretty thorough photo documentation but then @TonyM messaged me and asked about the physical size of the camera attached to the windshield mount. Many cameras that I've seen tend to be wider than they are tall, which typically allows you to hide them neatly behind your rear view mirror. I presume the vertical orientation of this camera is intended to allow the camera that faces the passenger compartment to peek out from below the mirror thereby enabling the 360 degree functionality of the camera. So, here are a few images that indicate the height of the camera.

The first image is with the windshield/GPS mount extended as far up as possible. Since Tony is from the UK, I used the metric side of my ruler😉. From the bottom of the camera to the mid point of the windshield mount is a bit more than 10.5cm.

The second image is with the windshield/GPS mount pushed as far down as possible. From the bottom of the camera to the mid point of the windshield mount is close to 9.0cm.

Both the front and rear cameras are installed on the same axis - they are exactly opposite from one another. The middle of the lens is about 17mm from the bottom of the camera and the top of the lens is about 3cm from the bottom of the camera.

In addition to being able to tilt up and down to accommodate various windshield angles, the swivel mount can also tilt side-to-side by approximately 140 degrees in total (a little more than 70 degrees deflection to both the left and right). This provides a GREAT deal of flexibility in how and where you can install it on your front windshield.

I also want to praise Vantrue for including not just one, but TWO(!) clip adapters for the GPS windshield swivel mount adapter! This camera utilizes a two-piece, split windshield mount which allows you to set up two different cars and then move the camera back and forth with minimal effort. The images below show what I mean. The first image below shows the back of the GPS mount which attaches to the camera alongside the clip adapter that attaches to the static mounting sticker for the windshield. Looking at the grooves, one just slips into the other for a secure mount.

Here are the two parts, partially clipped together:

And here they are almost completely clipped together. A final push eliminates the tiny gap that you see in the image below and final seating is confirmed with a satisfying "click" sound to let you know it is locked in place. With two windshield clips, you can quickly and easily move the camera to a different car, using the hardwire kit in one car and the 12v Utility Port power supply cable in the second car. Totally awesome!

And just because I didn't include this earlier, here are two images of the nice velvet pouch for the hand-held camera mount and tripod. Both fit neatly inside as shown below:

There is even a shorter inner sleeve that holds the tripod up and out of the way of the mounting head for the hand-held stick! I've folded down the top of the pouch so the inner sleeve is visible.

From start to finish here, the level of attention to detail on EVERY accessory is just REMARKABLE! It is clear that a number of people put a great deal of thought into how this would be installed and used, right down to the orientation of the USB-C power receptacles to minimize the appearance of wires, the pre-mounted 3M VHB adhesive pads (and spares, too!), two clip-mounts for the windshield, and the no-solder hardwire installation kit that even came with preinstalled fuses!

I'm THOROUGHLY impressed and am excited to start exploring its video performance!

 

[EmailPJC]

👏👏👏

I love your review, you present data that is not normally seen in other reviews. I was planning to do one, but now I am a bit embarrassed to do so. You set the bar very high and video evidence is still missing.
-----------------
Me encanta tu revisión, presentas datos que normalmente no se ven en otras revisiones. Yo pretendía hacer una, pero ahora me da un poco de vergüenza hacerlo. Pones el listón muy alto y todavía faltan las pruebas de video.

 

[EricSan]

Thanks! That took quite a bit more time than I thought it would. The problem is that I’ve set the bar high for my next set of posts, too. Now I need to come up with an equally compelling presentation for the videos 🤔

 

[TonyM]

I thought I provided pretty thorough photo documentation but then @TonyM messaged me and asked about the physical size of the camera attached to the windshield mount. Many cameras that I've seen tend to be wider than they are tall, which typically allows you to hide them neatly behind your rear view mirror. I presume the vertical orientation of this camera is intended to allow the camera that faces the passenger compartment to peek out from below the mirror thereby enabling the 360 degree functionality of the camera.

The first image is with the windshield/GPS mount extended as far up as possible. Since Tony is from the UK, I used the metric side of my ruler😉. From the bottom of the camera to the mid point of the windshield mount is a bit more than 10.5cm.

Both the front and rear cameras are installed on the same axis - they are exactly opposite from one another. The middle of the lens is about 17mm from the bottom of the camera and the top of the lens is about 3cm from the bottom of the camera.

Thanks for the measurements. I was hopeful that the interior-facing camera would be able to see into my car by peeking below the driver's side of the rear view mirror. However, after looking at the E360 manual I think it may be better to position the E360 to the side of the rear view mirror so that I can see and press the touch screen. But also below the mirror so that it can see out of both sides of the car. And with enough clearance to detach the camera from the mount.

I think some experimentation will be required to find the best balance between a discreet yet practical installation with a useful 360 degree view.

 

[EricSan]

I was having many of these same thoughts, too. I have my Viofo camera installed on the passenger side of the rear view mirror, so it is totally out of my field of vision while driving. But this camera needs a different mounting location so the 360 degree feature works and so there is access to the touchscreen. I haven't yet played with the app enough to compare the settable features in the app with those that are available on the touchscreen. I'm not sure the extent to which they overlap - I'll dig into this for sure over the next few days as I install the camera and begin to make some videos.

Another complicating factor with many cameras is the way the top band of various windshields have a built-in sun screen. Some windows are "clear" all of the way to the top. Some have a graduated density filter as you approach the top of the window. And yet others feature an increasing density of small "dots" that are applied to the inside surface of the windshield as they approach the top edge. While the 3M VHB will likely stick pretty well to those 3D light filtering dots (that stuff sticks to darn near everything!), the static cling sheet clearly doesn't like them, thus necessitating mounting the camera lower than may be desired in some cases. I'm curious to see how installation goes. I have access to 4 cars in the family: 3 sedans (Toyota Camry, Ford Mustang, Volvo S60) and 1 medium sized SUV (Volvo XC60). I'm curious to see how this mounting mechanism interacts physically with the rear view mirrors and sun visors.

I'm still finishing up grading for the semester, so I won't be able to play until Monday.

 

[Sawyer]

The camera powers up automatically when it receives a 5v input signal. Hold for a few seconds to turn it off.

Mine doesn't turn off. It just restarts and comes back on in about 2-3 seconds. What am I doing wrong?

I'm powering it either with a power bank or power adapter. Same behavior.

 

[sky1111]

Mine doesn't turn off. It just restarts and comes back on in about 2-3 seconds. What am I doing wrong?

I'm powering it either with a power bank or power adapter. Same behavior.

I updated the dashcam to the the latest webposted FW E360_VT-EDK271, and I still observe that reboot.

 

[EmailPJC]

I updated the dashcam to the the latest webposted FW E360_VT-EDK271, and I still observe that reboot.

Maybe you already tried it, it's just an idea but have you tried it without the micro SD?
----------
Quizás ya lo probó, es solo una idea pero lo ha intentado sin la micro SD?

 

[sky1111]

Maybe you already tried it, it's just an idea but have you tried it without the micro SD?
----------
Quizás ya lo probó, es solo una idea pero lo ha intentado sin la micro SD?

It is a persistent FW bug... with or without SD card present, as long as power is supplied, the dashcam keeps rebooting instead of shutdown - if the main power connector (on GPS module/windshield mount) is being used.

If I use the power connector that is on the unit itself, then shutdown works as expected. But that is the USB-C connector that is for rear camera.

@Jeff_Vantrue - how to report/file/track bugs?

 

[sky1111]

Also, when the unit gets power from GPS module, it keeps restarting every 60 seconds. As in full power down and power up cycle. That's a P1 bug.

 

[EricSan]

The power on/off behavior that I’ve reported so far involves having the camera attached to the hand held mount with the batteries in the handle. Mine powers up by pressing and holding the oval power button on the handheld mount for 2-3 seconds. This turns on the battery power and the camera turns on right away. Holding the round power button on the camera for another 3 count turns the camera off. Mine doesn’t do the power cycling that you are reporting.

Edit: Repeating the procedure above, but with power via the USB-C port on the GPS unit, my camera behaves as expected with no power cycling. Same behavior if I power the camera with the USB-C port on the camera itself. What software version is your camera?

Here is my software version:

 

[sky1111]

The power on/off behavior that I’ve reported so far involves having the camera attached to the hand held mount with the batteries in the handle. Mine powers up by pressing and holding the oval power button on the handheld mount for 2-3 seconds. This turns on the battery power and the camera turns on right away. Holding the round power button on the camera for another 3 count turns the camera off. Mine doesn’t do the power cycling that you are reporting.

Edit: Repeating the procedure above, but with power via the USB-C port on the GPS unit, my camera behaves as expected with no power cycling.

Here is my software version:
View attachment 76202

You are still on old FW. Maybe that is why you are not seeing the issue. I updated the unit to VT-EDK271 very early so I cannot claim that that it is a FW regression.
Try to update your dashcam to the latest FW...

 

[EricSan]

My plan for tomorrow is to get the camera into my car and make a series of videos. I’ll update the firmware afterward and see what happens.

 

[Sawyer]

You are still on old FW. Maybe that is why you are not seeing the issue. I updated the unit to VT-EDK271 very early so I cannot claim that that it is a FW regression.
Try to update your dashcam to the latest FW...

Same here. One of the first things it asked me was to update so not tested other firmwares. Also it was getting so hot on my desk that there is no way it wouldnt get damaged in a car.

 

[Jeff_Vantrue]

It is a persistent FW bug... with or without SD card present, as long as power is supplied, the dashcam keeps rebooting instead of shutdown - if the main power connector (on GPS module/windshield mount) is being used.

If I use the power connector that is on the unit itself, then shutdown works as expected. But that is the USB-C connector that is for rear camera.

@Jeff_Vantrue - how to report/file/track bugs?

Because the new 360 software added 4G LTE functionality, using other power cables may cause the device to reboot. It should work normally when powered with our original car charger.