SG9663DR update

Where to buy from? Any link?

Nevemind, found it.

I am trying to add it to the cart but it's stuck "loading" forever
You may check Vendors section post:

I just did "test-purchase" and everything works fine on my end.
Try to refresh browser.
If you will face any difficulties please PM me, I'll assist you.
 
Since the microphone is in the remote, then is the audio:
  • a separate file from the two videos ones?
    or
  • embedded into BOTH video files?
    or
  • embedded into one ONE of the video files?
 
location of the remote doesn't make any difference to how the files get encoded
+1
All dual cameras have just one microphone, usually in the front camera. The same audio is encoded into both video streams.
 
?@ jokiin or Street Guardian USA
maybe time to start a new thread for SG9663DR that pertains to this products questions, features, installs instead of this thread that has 850+ posts that are 98% related to the development and anticipated release. Or have the OP (not sure possible as Bobcat101 has not been last seen since Jul 6, 2019) edit the original question to instruct anyone looking for the actual information on the SG9663DR to start reading from page 41. I don't care, I have been reading these posts for 1 1/2+ years and know what page the item was released on. Just want to help others that are looking for actual information on the product/help with installs and they really don't care to go through 800 posts to get to the bone.

BTW can anyone tell me how to PM someone here? I have only found "start conversation". I do not know if that is PM and if anyone else can see the "conversation" if they look at that person's page which would not be a PM. I don't have any question at this time but have seen some ask them to PM them.

Capture.JPG
 
Last edited:
Anyone is welcome to start a new thread about anything. From experience it’s pretty typical for a pre-release product to have one giant thread on here before we start to see separate threads get posted a bit after it’s released.
 
I just realized, the way Tesla determines when to switch between Driver profile and Easy_Entry profile so you can get out of the car easier by moving the seat and steering wheel into a certain position, is when the Driver unbuckles his seat belt and the car is parked.

Now you won't get the Park mode from the car, probably, maybe unless you could somehow pull it from the ODBII, but there might be a way to easily tap into the seat buckle sensor and use that as the ACC switch with the camera's delay switching to parking mode for 5mins after ACC/seat belt is unbuckled.
 
I just realized, the way Tesla determines when to switch between Driver profile and Easy_Entry profile so you can get out of the car easier by moving the seat and steering wheel into a certain position, is when the Driver unbuckles his seat belt and the car is parked.

Now you won't get the Park mode from the car, probably, maybe unless you could somehow pull it from the ODBII, but there might be a way to easily tap into the seat buckle sensor and use that as the ACC switch with the camera's delay switching to parking mode for 5mins after ACC/seat belt is unbuckled.
This should be the wiring harness connector, I wonder how easy it'd be to buy the male and female connectors, create your own bridge harness with a tap line. Provided of course that the tap doesn't interfere with normal sensor operation.

and here's where you can see the connector and wires are routed:
 
This should be the wiring harness connector, I wonder how easy it'd be to buy the male and female connectors, create your own bridge harness with a tap line.
anything on the Rich Rebuilds channel at all? he's done just about everything you're not supposed to do with a Tesla
 
anything on the Rich Rebuilds channel at all? he's done just about everything you're not supposed to do with a Tesla
Rich's thing is Model S which has a fuse box, so while he's done a lot of cool stuff, I'm not sure he'd be helpful here.
I just need to find a service manual maybe to see if it lists the connectors which the harness uses and see who sells them. I guess I could always ask the service desk at Tesla Service Center nearby, they are generally helpful. I think there was only 2 wires there so it's hopefully a very simple and dumb electrical connection, either ON or OFF for bucked in or not. That'd make it safe and simple to tap it.
 
Rich's thing is Model S which has a fuse box, so while he's done a lot of cool stuff, I'm not sure he'd be helpful here.
I thought he was getting into other models now, not sure though, have only watched a few of his videos, Tesla are way out of my price range unfortunately so it's curiosity rather than a need for info
 
I have a fun time installing things like this but looking at Tesla not so fun for me. I looked at some videos to educate myself on Tesla and I think I would rather take apart my laptop and run a wire through it instead of a Tesla, lol. So I have seen a few videos for switched +ACC 12v that seem to shut down and not 12 hours later. Maybe, maybe not, I wish you Tesla owners the best. Here are a few of them. Also ran across this info....

"If anybody else is having problems with the dual cameras interfering with their electronics, (key fob, gps, charging door) here are a few tips:
  • I found out that the video cable that connects both cameras is responsible for emitting waves that screw these up...
  • I installed my cable passing through the drivers side boot at the hatch. (first mistake) you should route the cable on the passenger side, since there is less sensitve cables here...
  • The driver's side houses the cables for the FOB antennas as well as the RF antenna for the automatic door of the car's charging port.
  • The cable provided by viofo is not well insulated. This also happened to some older model Blackvue Cameras.
  • Here are a couple of links to read more about the issue: Charging Port interference and Key FOB
  • I corrected 70% of the issue by adding ferrite cores along the length of the video cable."
Looks like SG included a few ferrites.

My guess is you Tesla owners have already googled and found this info.
In one of the video there are more wires in the kick panel than under my dash. I don't know if this car is the one that does not have fuses (part of the reason for the Tesla not having fuses is to have less wiring)


 
I have a fun time installing things like this but looking at Tesla not so fun for me. I looked at some videos to educate myself on Tesla and I think I would rather take apart my laptop and run a wire through it instead of a Tesla, lol. So I have seen a few videos for switched +ACC 12v that seem to shut down and not 12 hours later. Maybe, maybe not, I wish you Tesla owners the best. Here are a few of them. Also ran across this info....

"If anybody else is having problems with the dual cameras interfering with their electronics, (key fob, gps, charging door) here are a few tips:
  • I found out that the video cable that connects both cameras is responsible for emitting waves that screw these up...
  • I installed my cable passing through the drivers side boot at the hatch. (first mistake) you should route the cable on the passenger side, since there is less sensitve cables here...
  • The driver's side houses the cables for the FOB antennas as well as the RF antenna for the automatic door of the car's charging port.
  • The cable provided by viofo is not well insulated. This also happened to some older model Blackvue Cameras.
  • Here are a couple of links to read more about the issue: Charging Port interference and Key FOB
  • I corrected 70% of the issue by adding ferrite cores along the length of the video cable."
Looks like SG included a few ferrites.

My guess is you Tesla owners have already googled and found this info.
In one of the video there are more wires in the kick panel than under my dash. I don't know if this car is the one that does not have fuses (part of the reason for the Tesla not having fuses is to have less wiring)



You're are talking about VCLeft, it has one 12V circuit available for power usage that was initially intended for trailer hitch but never implemented, 10A avg and 15A breaker, it's switched kind like ACC except it turns off 12 hours after the car is parked, not when you park it. There's no +ACC in Tesla like there is on ICE vehicles, so it's useless for dashcams because it's neither always on nor true indicated when the car is parked.
 
And so it begins...

IMG_20200625_155530.jpg

No, I'm not going to install it on the quadcopter. That might be interesting, and giving it 12v is actually the easy part. But I don't think it would be durable enough for when I crash at speed (I expect this one to be capable of 70+mph - it's a racer, and I'm still a rookie pilot).
 
In addition to the 3m dual lock tape for mounting the main unit, there's a set of really strong (presumably neodymium) magnets. And to answer someone's question earlier in the thread, yes, the fuse taps connect with regular old bullet connectors, in case it's the wrong size fuse tap, or you just want to use your own connection. With regular cameras, I often tapped directly into the map lights, sunroof, and/or auto-dimming mirror wiring that's already in the overhead console of most vehicles so I don't need to run anything down the A-pillar. With this one I may tap into the radio or lighter wiring instead.
IMG_20200625_164741.jpg

In addition, the "big red button" (which isn't that big - red part is about 1cm diameter) looks to be made of red rubber. In photos before, I thought it was transparent red plastic. Hopefully this means the light inside the button won't be too bright. Will be going on a road trip tomorrow so as long as I can get it installed tonight, it'll get quite a workout from the start.
 
Hope you get it up and running for the trip Gibson, the weather here for tomorrow are just warm, there will be clouds and even some rain too in the afternoon.
So the Danish summer is as usual put on hold for a few days
 
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