SG9665GC anyone hardwire?

[peterharvey]

Hi jokiin, I'm just surprized the science of what amperage fuse to use is so "vague" - I thought it would be a much more "objective" choice, that's all, but off the top of my head, I would have thought the lower the current cut off, the better, but we don't want too low a cut off.

 

[Deacon]

Just like anything else in life, the answer is "it depends." It needs to be high enough that it doesn't interrupt the circuit when everything is behaving normally, even with initial powe-on surges. But it needs to be low enough to interrupt it before something catches fire. That's why it's a "range" of answers that could be considered "correct" or at least suitable for the application.

Would 2A work? Certainly. But if it's more painful or expensive to acquire than a 5A fuse, and the 5A works equally well, then why not go with a 5A fuse? I don't know the gauge or length or composition of the wiring you're running, but you'd probably be fine with a 10A for that matter. Or technically no fuse at all, because it's purely a safety net in case something goes badly wrong in the future. And you're talking low amperage at low voltage. If you're walking a tightrope that's only head high, a safety net isn't as important. But if it's cheap and easy, then it's good practice to keep a safety net in place. So throw one of those 5A fuses in there and sleep easy.

 

[daniel_bel]

Is it now the right time to start the discussion about slow, fast and medium speed fuses?

 

[TomZweifel]

I'm just surprized the science of what amperage fuse to use is so "vague" - I thought it would be a much more "objective" choice, that's all, but off the top of my head, I would have thought the lower the current cut off, the better, but we don't want too low a cut off.

What size fuse to use isn't vague at all, but it is a secondary consideration to what size wire you should be using. The fuse size is based ONLY on the size of the wire, not the load. If you over size the wire for the load (and other factors) then the fuse size becomes almost arbitrary between the load size up to the maximum size for that wire.

In this case, the absolute minimum wire size you can use is 18awg or 0.75mm, and the absolute maximum fuse size for that wire size and length is 15a/18awg or 13a/0.75mm under ideal conditions and varying slightly depending which standard you want to cite and use. Any larger wire and smaller fuse size from there is a margin of safety.

Use 16awg or 1mm stranded copper with 60c insulation up to 8 meters long and any fuze size you want between 2 and 10 amps. Spend the extra brain power on properly terminating your connections, that's far more critical.

 

[Deacon]

Ridiculous. He's pulling milliamps at 12V. He could easily run 24-ga telephone wire and be good to go.

 

[TomZweifel]

To be fair, he is talking about hundreds of milliamps at 12v, it isn't insignificant. But I'm always surprised by what does work however improbable or ill advised.

 

[Deacon]

It is insignificant. Even telephone wire can run a couple amps through without issue.

 

[wozzzzza]

lets just be done with it and install this.

 

[SawMaster]

I'm on a temporary set-up ATM, but soon my rear cam will have a 30A circuit feeding it, will that be enough juice?

Mine's a workvan and there will be much more than just a cam on that circuit in time which is why it's so huge I've not heard of any dash or action cam needing more than about 1.5A going to it's PS so that's a safe minimum figure to work with. Your fuse is mainly protecting the wiring going to your PS. A 5A fuse will blow from a short before even 24ga wire causes a fire although the insulation may smoke a little. Any larger wire (which is the norm; nobody uses 24ga) will not be a problem at all with a 5A fuse. No need for slow-blow or fast-blow, just a standard fuse will work just fine One caveat: buy brand-name fuses only as some of the cheap ones will either blow too early or will not blow when you need them to. Avoid the fuses from Harbor Freight- you have been warned!

Phil

 

[Deacon]

I'd put a fuse in line with however you're tapping into that 30A circuit. Otherwise the wire to the cam will be the fuse, which isn't good.

 

[SawMaster]

No problem- I'm a Ham Radio operator and I know what 30A can do to your day It will be fused at the power source (30A), fused at a power terminal at the back (10A or so according to what I run back there) then fused separately for the cams (2-3 cams on a 5A fuse). There will be a second unfused power terminal in back able to draw the full 30A (protected by the source fuse). I don't take chances with my workvan

Phil

 

[Deacon]

Ok, good, I was worried for a second there

 

[wozzzzza]

No problem- I'm a Ham Radio operator and I know what 30A can do to your day It will be fused at the power source (30A), fused at a power terminal at the back (10A or so according to what I run back there) then fused separately for the cams (2-3 cams on a 5A fuse). There will be a second unfused power terminal in back able to draw the full 30A (protected by the source fuse). I don't take chances with my workvan

Phil

sounds good.

lets just be done with it and install this.

and yeah, don't take my advice when ive had a bit to drink. I barely remember posting this post, I only had a stubbie as well, I rarely drink as well so it might have hit me a bit.

 

[Phil Gamboa]

Hello guys/gals!

New to the forum here and new to the topic of Dashcams! I've spent a significant amount of time on my truck from adding an auto dimming rear view, upgraded side mirrors etc. These upgrades required some major electrical "re-work". So I am familiar with that side of things.

Based on the numerous pages, threads, and posts, I've concluded that I want to go with the SG9665GC V3 and had some questions about hardwiring.

I can deliver the various types of power signals to the cam - Run/Crank Voltage, Constant 12V and Retained Accessory Power. What would be the recommended type? I would be hardwiring for a clean/permanent install. If SG USA is doing it, what would be the recommended method? I am seeing hardware "kits", "add-a-fuse", etc.

Can someone from SG USA make a recommendation list and links to buy to make this all happen?

What all comes with the SG USA vs needed to buy separately.

Thanks in advance!


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[Deleted member 46308]

Welcome to DCT @Phil Gamboa great selection for your first Cam! You can cut off the cigarette lighter plug on the supplied power cord, then using an add-a-circuit plug it into an accessory circuit in the fuse box and you will be good to go. That is the method that I have used and everything works fine. Post #204, pg 11 of this thread @Street Guardian USA explains this method.

 

[Phil Gamboa]

Welcome to DCT @Phil Gamboa great selection for your first Cam! You can cut off the cigarette lighter plug on the supplied power cord, then using an add-a-circuit plug it into an accessory circuit in the fuse box and you will be good to go. That is the method that I have used and everything works fine. Post #204 pg 11 of this thread @Street Guardian USA explains this method.

Thanks for the quick response!

When using an "add-a-fuse", it seems that these are ran the fuse panel and plugged in. Would that be necessary if I'm delivering the power circuit that is already fused? There is an "Upfitter" tap Panel in my truck that is fused. All I would have to do is make a connector with a pinned wire to this tap spot and run that to the cut-off (included) cigarette lighter adapter right?

Another thing I wanted to note - Does this camera offer recording capabilities when parked? I believe it's called "parking mode"? If so, would that change the suggested method of ACC Power to Constant? If not, that's ok too. I didn't see it listed in the feature set.




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[peterharvey]

Would you like to only park for an hour or two, or would you like to park 10 hours a day & 5 days a week?

If parking for only an hour or two, you must buy a Vivo Power Plus and two fuse taps.

If you're intending to park long & regularly, then buy a System B heat resistant Lion battery which simply plugs into your cigarette lightet socket, and your 9665GC V3 simply plugs into the Lion battery with no messy hands on electrical work.

 

[jokiin]

When using an "add-a-fuse", it seems that these are ran the fuse panel and plugged in. Would that be necessary if I'm delivering the power circuit that is already fused? There is an "Upfitter" tap Panel in my truck that is fused. All I would have to do is make a connector with a pinned wire to this tap spot and run that to the cut-off (included) cigarette lighter adapter right?

as long as the circuit is appropriately fused is the important thing, a fuse tap is convenient due to being a connector and a fuse holder in one which simplifies installation for a lot of people

Another thing I wanted to note - Does this camera offer recording capabilities when parked? I believe it's called "parking mode"? If so, would that change the suggested method of ACC Power to Constant? If not, that's ok too. I didn't see it listed in the feature set.

they are designed to be connected to an accessory switched circuit, some people do wire them to a permanent feed but it's not really designed with that use in mind, an external power control unit is ideally needed when doing this, preferably one with thermal cutout as well, cameras that are designed with this use in mind generally have this stuff built in, they also run much lower bitrate which helps to offset some running temp issues when parked, the trade off to that is they don't perform as well when moving due to the lower bitrate so it's quite a compromise just to get parking mode

 

[jokiin]

Joikiin, is it possible to combine a System B 12V Lion battery with a Vico Power Plus timer?

not sure, not something I've looked at

 

[peterharvey]

not sure, not something I've looked at

Actually, it's probably be v messy.
Because Vico cannot easily plug into System B lion battery, hence I deleted silly post.