SG9665GC anyone hardwire?

you need something that has timer and voltage cutoffs and the ability to be set to turn off when you need that as well, running a camera 24/7 isn't good for the camera, the card or your car battery
cant wait for the street guardian version to come out.
 
Hi, I just got a SG9665GC and am curious on the hardwiring as well. I've thumbed through this thread and am curious, if I'm plugging the device into an accessory fuse, why do I need to worry about battery protection? Is there some major benefit to the CPUSB01 vs just a plain old 12V to 5V step down converter?
 
Hi, I just got a SG9665GC and am curious on the hardwiring as well. I've thumbed through this thread and am curious, if I'm plugging the device into an accessory fuse, why do I need to worry about battery protection? Is there some major benefit to the CPUSB01 vs just a plain old 12V to 5V step down converter?

You don't, it's just a peace of mind backup and CPUSB01 is a high quality 12V 5V converter.

You can cut off the cig plug and DIY hard wire if you have the new SG9CCV2 power supply where power supply is in-line (square box) and not in the plug.

593561fa23ff959c1ffc5feed0f70acb.png


I've seen the budget generic no name mini USB hard wire power supplies fry cameras over the past few years.
 
CPT is very popular budget power supply / converter / hardwiring equipment brand, however it is hit and miss from my personal past experience. Also it is can be quite sensitive to voltage drop / rise, hence there has been many cases where either fuse or daschamera get burned, but as usually - you get what you pay ( on Ali it cost around 5-6 usd delivered )
 
I may just chop off the cigarette lighter plug (and most of the rest of the wire) and put it up in my headliner bext to the overhead console with a Posi-Tap attached to an ACC switched power wire I'm sure I can find up there. Hoping the mini-USB side of the brick isn't so long that it has to be coiled up like crazy up there. The other problem could be the ferrite bead on the end, finding a way to feed that through the headliner gap if necessary. We'll see whenever SG USA ships out my Amazon order and I get it all in my hands.
 
I may just chop off the cigarette lighter plug (and most of the rest of the wire) and put it up in my headliner bext to the overhead console with a Posi-Tap attached to an ACC switched power wire I'm sure I can find up there. Hoping the mini-USB side of the brick isn't so long that it has to be coiled up like crazy up there. The other problem could be the ferrite bead on the end, finding a way to feed that through the headliner gap if necessary. We'll see whenever SG USA ships out my Amazon order and I get it all in my hands.

10% of our freight is just now passing though Cincinnati Ohio on the way to the Nevada office. The other 90% is stuck in Hong Kong with over booked DHL planes. I'll do my best to turn around all back orders same day stock arrives.

About optional DIY hard wire:

c8c9b00e776a9a5be6207da0df6aa642.png
 
The other problem could be the ferrite bead on the end, finding a way to feed that through the headliner gap if necessary.

not as hard as it might seem, I have the ferrite under the headlining in my car and have done others the same without a problem
 
I'll do my best to turn around all back orders same day stock arrives.
Looking forward to it. I didn't order till late Wednesday night, so I guess it comes when it comes.

About optional DIY hard wire:
I'll probably end up cutting closer to the brick if I stash it up in the headliner, as it's just extra length of unnecessary wire at that point.

not as hard as it might seem, I have the ferrite under the headlining in my car and have done others the same without a problem
Right, I'm hoping it works out where the bead is either far enough back that it's fine as is or else isn't literally molded in and can be slid back a few inches if extra length is needed.
 
Ferrite should fit in the headliner for those that don't use the cord cover and mount close to the ceiling.

For those that use the cord cover here is how to place the ferrite core so it fits nicely.

d1c7655a59e1e69ff4d5d3ce9d1f26b8.jpg
 
I'd like to use the cover, but I'd like to keep it just barely peeking out from behind the frits more. If I can do both, that will be perfect. Might make it more challenging for the mechanics at the dealership to unplug it while it's in their care. All questions that will be answered once I actually have it in my hands :)
 
10% of our freight is just now passing though Cincinnati Ohio on the way to the Nevada office. The other 90% is stuck in Hong Kong with over booked DHL planes. I'll do my best to turn around all back orders same day stock arrives.

About optional DIY hard wire:

c8c9b00e776a9a5be6207da0df6aa642.png
That's my hardwire solution :)
 
If two Street Guardian SG9665GC V3's are connected via a twin 12v socket to single 12v plug adaptor, to a single Vicovation Vico Power Plus, which is in turn hardwired to the vehicle's fuse box, what size fuse should we use?
A 5 Amp fuse to take both front and rear SG9665GC V3 dash cams?
 
If two Street Guardian SG9665GC V3's are connected via a twin 12v socket to single 12v plug adaptor, to a single Vicovation Vico Power Plus, which is in turn hardwired to the vehicle's fuse box, what size fuse should we use?
A 5 Amp fuse to take both front and rear SG9665GC V3 dash cams?

5Amp fuse will be fine.
 
My instruction manual doesn't say much.
However, below is the fuse cover's chart, and a photo of the fuse box.
Which fuse is best for constant 12V power, and which type of fuse [eg Shade RR etc] is best for 12V switched power?
Also it is a Lexus IS, so does the fuse and the spare sockets look like mini-fuses, such that I can purchase a typical mini fuse piggy back or a mini fuse tap, or must we use a special fuse and fuse piggybacks/taps that only Lexus supplies?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3xFS87WfHstSUdYMHI4dUNWM0k/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3xFS87WfHstdVNCVjBCcHd4SlU/view?usp=sharing
 
If two Street Guardian SG9665GC V3's are connected via a twin 12v socket to single 12v plug adaptor, to a single Vicovation Vico Power Plus, which is in turn hardwired to the vehicle's fuse box, what size fuse should we use?
A 5 Amp fuse to take both front and rear SG9665GC V3 dash cams?

My instruction manual doesn't say much.
However, below is the fuse cover's chart, and a photo of the fuse box.
Which fuse is best for constant 12V power, and which type of fuse [eg Shade RR etc] is best for 12V switched power?
Also it is a Lexus IS, so does the fuse and the spare sockets look like mini-fuses, such that I can purchase a typical mini fuse piggy back or a mini fuse tap, or must we use a special fuse and fuse piggybacks/taps that only Lexus supplies?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3xFS87WfHstSUdYMHI4dUNWM0k/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3xFS87WfHstdVNCVjBCcHd4SlU/view?usp=sharing

Radio is usually good for ACC. For Constant BAT power seat is usually good but maybe Hazard lights since those are usually available and powered at all times.

Q0TZVPn.png
 
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