SG9665GC anyone hardwire?

I just found out that my car uses "low profile mini" fuses, rather than standard, nor plain mini fuses.

Latest-Low-Profile-Mini-Fuse-Tap-Dual-Aps-Fuse-Holder-Includes-15AMP-10AMP-Fuse.jpg
 
Always good to get familiar with your vehicle electronic systems before embarking on a new project.
 
That's no problem, just swap your OEM low profile fuse for an identical rated mini fuse and pop it in the add-a-circuit.
 
5Amp fuse will be fine.

If I am connecting two (2) SG9665GC V3's [one front and one rear] to the one fuse, would it be even safer to use a 4 Amp violet, or even a 3 Amp pink fuse?

3A-Violet-LOW-PROFILE-MINI-Blade-Fuse-Car.jpg


$_35.JPG


Or best stick to the 5 Amp orange low profile mini fuses?

LMIN005.jpg


Because doesn't the SG9665GC V3's run at 12V x 1A each for 12 Watts per dash cam.
Two dash cams would use 2 Amps of current in total???

Or do they run at 5V and 1A each, for an equivalent of 12V and 0.416A each at the car battery end????

Wouldn't a larger 5 amp fuse allow much higher current to cause greater damage if current overload occurs, while a 3 or 4 amp fuse would stop the high current much earlier on?
 
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If I am connecting two (2) SG9665GC V3's [one front and one rear] to the one fuse, would it be even safer to use a 4 Amp violet, or even a 3 Amp pink fuse?

3A-Violet-LOW-PROFILE-MINI-Blade-Fuse-Car.jpg


$_35.JPG


Or best stick to the 5 Amp orange low profile mini fuses?

LMIN005.jpg


Because doesn't the SG9665GC V3's run at 12V x 1A each for 12 Watts per dash cam.
Two dash cams would use 2 Amps of current in total???

Or do they run at 5V and 1A each, for an equivalent of 12V and 0.416A each at the car battery end????

Wouldn't a larger 5 amp fuse allow much higher current to cause greater damage if current overload occurs, while a 3 or 4 amp fuse would stop the high current much earlier on?

Fuse protects vehicle from dashcam not vise versa.
 
Either of the 3 or 4A fuse should be fine for two cameras. I was using a 2A fuse for the GC before switching to a power supply with more USB ports.

The current setup utilises a 10A add-on fuse for a 5 port, 10A, 50W charger. Even with 5 cameras plugged in, the total draw will not exceed 5A.

By tapping the existing 12V socket fuse (which's rated for 25A - 180W) and using a 10A additional fuse, the risk to the factory wiring is eliminated.
 
I use a two amp fuse for running two SG cams and it's fine. I'd rather start low and work my way up as it's only the price of a fuse if it blows.
 
I use a two amp fuse for running two SG cams and it's fine. I'd rather start low and work my way up as it's only the price of a fuse if it blows.
what happens if you reach 30A and it still blows? stick a 50A in?
 
Size the wire for the current draw of each camera, then size the fuse for the wire.

Each camera pulls under half an amp. Run 16ga to each camera and install a single 2 amp fuse for both. You might have problems with 18ga or smaller, particularly for the rear camera.
 
Does anyone know what is the exact current draw of one SG9665GC dash cam at 12 volts?

Apparently, choosing the fuse amperage depends on the voltage, the gauge of wire used, even the type of device, and other factors, and it is recommended that the fuse be 175% of FLA fully loaded amperage.

The wiring should be 135% of the expected load.

Thus, if the two SG9665GC's are drawing 12v and 1A each, then we would need a 3.5 amp fuse, but I don't think 3.5A fuses are available; only 3A or 4A is available.
 
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You are way overthinking this. First of all, the fuse is only there to protect the car from fire. It should blow before the wire can melt, because if the wire melts it could cause a fire or other damage. The minimum size of the wire will depend as much on length of run as it does the amperage at voltage. You can google it easily if you want to disappear down that rabbit hole, as it's pretty important to the marine outfitters. But you're talking about such small currents at such low voltage that it absolutely does not matter. You could power the camera with a telephone wire. That's how small we're talking.

So throw whatever fuse you've got in there and move on. 5A is plenty small.
 
PS Think of if this way: what are the circuit breakers in your house for, exactly? There not there to protect your light bulbs or appliances. There there so that if something goes wrong and there's a short, they interrupt the circuit to keep your house from burning down. That's all a fuse is, a simple mechanism to interrupt a circuit in case of a short (overload) so that nothing burns down. It is not there to protect your blinkers or radio or dashcam. It's there to make sure that if something goes wrong your car doesn't burn to the ground.
 
I'm a novice in this, so at first I was originally very confused as to which fuse amperage to select.
I was told that the amperage of the fuse would depend on a number of factors like the voltage, amperage of the appliance, and the length of wire used, because the longer the wire, the greater the resistance, and there are charts that determine the gauge of wire to be used.

For two 9665GC's, even at this point in time, there is obviously no specific amperage of fuse to be used, but a very "loose range" from 2 Amps to 5 Amps.

All I needed was someone experienced to say to me that there is no specific or exact amperage fuse to select, but an amperage range of say 2 amps to 5 amps will "suffice".

The low profile mini fuse tap that I'm purchasing only comes bundled with a 15 amp fuse, so I had to purchase a bag of 5 amp fuses.
 
5 amp is fine, the fuse needs to be the weakest link in the chain in case of short circuit, it's only about protecting the vehicle
 
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