the RC (radio control) and electric rideables thread

No i think its the other way around, the 20WT oil i just filled in 2 of my dampers are about half the viscosity of Syrup where the standard 30 WT are not waterline but thinner for sure.

Let me see if i can whip up some form of video demo of the stuff.
 
Hmmmm there are something wrong here, i have 3 bottles of oil and same brand, and the 45WT are indeed the thickest one of those, and the 30 WY bottle are no way near as think as the 25 WT from a tube i use.

the bottle ones are of the brand Ultimate and the tube one i got from my friend are Losi brand.
Sadly i dont have a little funnel cuz that i could use as a poor mans viscometer demoing how long it would take under gravity for a set amount to drain out of the little hole in a little funnel.

A little trick we painters use to ensure the paint we work with are the same viscosity as that have a say in how it perform in the gun and on the thing you paint.
 
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too bad your so far away Gibson, or i would have you hooked up with all the shock oil you would ever need, maybe even some shocks too though the ones i have are around 90 mm i am sure my friend have a lot lying around he dont use, just like the silicon oil which he like airbrush paints have a whole drawer full of.
The stuff used for the larger 1/5 on and offroad trucks are really thick stuff, but that's also shocks with a half - 3/4 inch or so internal diameter.

I would say for your little offorader though a snappy one you should look up your LHS ( Local Hobby Store ) and have a look at 30 - 45 WT oil
You might be able to find out what similar trucks use for oil by looking at the spare parts lists for say traaxxas stadium trucks or something.
 

Looking at traxxas dampers they have some nice kits with 4 dampers and oil ready to go, but not cheap stuff.

TRX5460X.jpg


Part numbers:
TRX5460X
TRX7061X
TRX4760
Not sure about the hole 2 hole length on these, im sure traxxas own home page have more info.
 
i wonder if that bottle of 30 is mis-labeled... might actually be 5 or 10 it's so thin.

i ordered the 50wt last night, but just now tried to cancel the order - we'll see. if i end up receiving it anyway, amazon might let me do a return, but worst case it's only $5. and 50 wt might end up being correct for the 'road' car anyway, since i want it to have firm handling.
 
Yeah not much travel needed in road car suspension, still tweaking on it can yeld better performance if you are in a competitive mode.

When my friend and his nephew was competing we usually had 3 sets of shocks for their cars, the optimal one we found ( oil and spring firmness ) and then a harder and a softer option.
But to be honest the biggest gains was to be found in wheel adjustment which on comp cars are pretty much the same options as a F1 car, and also we found tweaking on the brake was also a good thing, harder back then but today you have things like ABS in the ESC and not forgetting gyro and what not fancy smancy stuff.
 
the wltoys car barely has braking at all. the remo truck has better braking, but it's much more annoying when trying to change directions quickly.

the alignment adjustments on the wltoys car (which i added aftermarket - only front/rear camber and front toe - no caster) have so much slop in the actual ball joints that it's almost comical. scale that up to 1:1 and nobody would want to drive it - it would be scary as hell!
 
higher end speed controllers have more programmable features, as i do what i do mine are set to slam on the brake as soon as i let go of the throttle.
driving the little offroaders you also need instant reverse, normally in competition at least on road that's not allowed, some allow throttle - neutral and then reverse and yet others dont allow for reversing at all.
I program my Holmes hobby speed controller ( essentially a castle creations speed controller modified a little and made waterproof ) using the castle link programmer, with it i can program a wide range of Castle and Holmes hobbies things.

 
I've got some new toys:

Should get up to 100km/h
3670 3200KV / 12o A (Fake Hobbywing).



A 1/18 wannabe crawler or miniature Twin Hammer clone.



A very cheap toy-grade, but good looking "thing" for modding the heck out of it:

 
New shoes arrived for my little truck... 95mm instead of the original 75mm tires. Same width tho. Tread is much deeper so it should be better in the snow when I bring it to Colorado.

And if the rims break like they say in some reviews, the tires should fit the stock rims.

IMG_20171129_201457~01.jpg
 
After trying many a RC vehicle in snow with no or a little success my friend finally caved in years ago and got the blizzard, it too whent thru some changes and the rests of it was thrown out a couple of months ago.

New-Kyosho-Blizzard-2.jpg
 
Gibson99 said:
New shoes arrived for my little truck... 95mm instead of the original 75mm tires. Same width tho. Tread is much deeper so it should be better in the snow when I bring it to Colorado.

And if the rims break like they say in some reviews, the tires should fit the stock rims.

View attachment 34785
Click to expand...
I think it looks much better now. Here's a before and after - tried to keep the angle the same. Will probably have to trim the body at the front wheel arches so it won't hit while turning. Rear is fine - over 5mm clearance even at full compression of suspension. And if I wanted to, I could raise the body mounts about 1cm, but that would expose the motor and stuff - purely cosmetic of course as there's no way to keep them clean, and it's supposedly waterproof anyway.

IMG_20171129_211216~01.jpg
IMG_20171130_094959~01.jpg
IMG_20171130_095046~01.jpg

I will say this... These big tall sidewalls made it MUCH easier to glue the tires to the rims compared to the low pro tires on my road car!

Edit: now that I think about it, I'll try raising the body before trimming it, since that can be undone, unlike cutting.

Edit 2: yep, raising the body was the right choice. Doesn't look near as bad as I thought it would. And since this is just a little vac molded shell, it won't make it to heavy (till I snap the Git2 into its mount... Which I already realize I should have put at the front of the "bed", right against the cab. It would pop wheelies and get stuck standing on the back bumper, but now with the bigger tires, it might not have enough torque to do that anymore. Only one way to find out! :D

IMG_20171130_102213~01.jpg
 
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I just noticed one possible problem... The threaded part of the hub studs doesn't go very far into the nylon part of the hub nut.. might have to use loctite on the wheel nuts. :(
 
Looks interesting ..
 
Indeed, though i do think i will have to add a little support here and there.

Those running boards i will probably have to reinforce with something like sliders below them, and the front fenders too, i drive a lot on the limit seeking the most insane lines so i do tumble a lot and i do think those front fender might be prone to breaking fast.
And i think i will reinforce the sides of the bed too as i will be making some inner fenders too, so might as well go a little higher and make the sides stronger from within.
Will probably have to do other lights on the front fenders, or maybe on the front bumper, and then add a 5 inch light bar on the roof.
No rear lights on a 1946 car it would seem, suit me fine one less problem / job, and driving at night no problem seeing where the truck is with 500 - 1000 forward lumens.

But first this new body have to hit the shelves in the stores.
 
Got my Taranis Q x7 Transmitter ...
So went on youtube to see what people are doing with batteries .. Lots of dodgy stuff .

So I did this ...


My 18650 battery tray for the Q x7 transmitter ...
No dodgy battery mods for me ..
 
Wow - More stuff !


Came in the mail = iRangeX IRX4+ (plus) multi protocol module .
Whats interesting is the PPM mode , no need to flash in Open Tx . Just use the Firmware already in the transmitter .
Makes the budget 9x very powerful
 
Yeah those modular TX systems are nice (y)
 
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